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Take one old server.
Attack with screw driver and hammer late on a Friday afternoon.
The result is a stylish bookshelf. I'm currently in negotiations with Ikea to produce more. ;)
Going it at about a 45-degree angle, dip your screen into your pulp, tilting it further as you go, so you're easing the screen into the pulp.
Because this sort of thing doesn't warrant an entire blog post.
For 1/4 cup of buttermilk, use 3/4 teaspoon vinegar. For 1/3 cup increments, use 1 teaspoon vinegar. For 1/2 cup, use 1 1/2 teaspoons vinegar.
Note how the even details are printed and folded in such a way as to be visible in the final origami crane.
Done.
The shutter is opened.
I did not build a shutter for my 45 pinhole camera. And it went well for the past few years.
Recently I found that, the failure rate was too high, because of not using a shutter.
In most of the cases, the skin color of my hand was captured by the camera.
I am not young anymore, my hand can not move as fast as before.
So, a shutter might solve the problem, right?
Let me test it.
for the group pimpmypic www.flickr.com/groups/pimpmypixels/discuss/72157605211962...
I've been asked a few times how I made this image, so below I try to explain.
For me Photoshop is really a trial and error process where I'm constantly trying things so I have no straight process to recommend. However, were I to recreate this image again:
The first step would be to isolate the portrait from the background (rough hand lasso and copy, then paste as a layer on a white back ground).
I'd then make another copy of that layer (to add as a third layer later but keep hidden for now). in the case of this image I had also made a layer solely of her lips and one of her eyes to adjust them separately before merging the all the layers for the final image.
Below are the layers I'd make
Layer 1 = white backgroud
Layer 2 = portrait isolated
Layer 3 = prortrait isolated copy
Layer 4 = eyes only
Layer 5 = lips only
Next step would be to lighten layer 2 considerably using a curve adjustment (currently this layer and the background would be the only ones showing)
Then "blur" with Gaussian blur or "lens blur" a lot , to be still vaguely discernible as a face, but real blurry (lookup Orton Effect online for a tutorial of where I'm going with this step and the next).
Next step is to take the unadulterated portrait layer (Layer 3) and lighten it considerably with curve adjustments. Now "multipy" Layer 2 and Layer 3 to blend the
two layers together.
Once the layers 2 and 3 are "multiplied" together there is an underglow to the face. At this point I'd merge the two layers flat and again lighten considerably with curves so the hair was blond. Even adjusting the color curves
(yellow, red, blue) helps lighten the image further. Specifically I find the lightening of yellow really helps get the skin closer to white while retaining some shadow..
Switching the image to Black and White at this point allows it to be just that (remember the saved but undisplayed -hidden - layers of the lips and eyes in color to add back
later).
In Photoshop CS3 in switching to BW you have greater control and can again adjust the colors independently making yellow and red color channels lighter.
Now to blend the BW face with the white background is simply a mater of using the eraser tool at about 5% to go over and over the edges working inward to make the hair
blend without a hard edge. You may even want to partially erase other areas (forehead, cheeks) in this way to again get very white.
Then finally I added back the eyes and lips and used the blur tool to soften the hard edges. some color adjustments on both allowed them to be softer and lighter than the
originals, but I liked the pop of color.
Flatten all layers, play with curves one last time and "save as"...your done.
There you have it for what its worth.
This was my first try at highkey so I'm sure with subsequent trials I'd get a more refined process.
And another one because flickr apparently can't stop changing things. ugh
1. (yellow) click the arrow (facing to the right)
2. (pink) Make sure you click BBCode for posting to the forums
3. (green) choose a size, 640 is a good resolution to DoA
4. (purple) Copy the code and paste it into DoA!
This sketch shows the proper method to measure the penis of your girth using a measuring tape. For more information please visit my how to measure your penis article at www.micropenis.info/2013/07/do-i-have-micropenis.html
This is my sketch, please attribute properly if you use it!
[STEP 3]
Load into your 120 cam. You can invert the direction of the canister if you want to Redscale :-)
Because of the morphology of 35mm canisters, you will see that the film is going to be slightly offset either upwards or downwards.
Frankly, *I* don't give a damn, my dear, but if you're an oxymoronic photographer, who'd like to do exact science with lo-fi photography, then make sure you are aware of this shift when you frame :-DDD
[STEP 4]
Well, there is no step 4, really. Just go at it.. Shoot till you can wind no more Frame spacing was fairly big with my Pentacon (maybe 2cm or so?) but I don't care. I can process a 36 exposure film for $2 at Wallgreen's; I got 15 frames out of a 36. 2 bucks for that is well worth it.
Obviously, like with most sprocket photo hacks, you will have to unload in a dark bag/room. Nice thing about this DIY adapter is that one of them will double as a rewind tool :-) No need to have a potentially film-damaging tool in your dark bag like a pair of scissors or pliers.
Hope this helps somebody. Enjoy! :-)
leave about 15cm of thread and start the first ring. In the picture it has been showed how to join the metallic ring: the tatting lay under the ring, the shuttle pull out a loop from inside of the ring, then tighten as a normal join and contine with next double stich.
I finally found a good solution for full zoom shots without having to lug around a heavy tripod. This adjustable monopod walking stick is just what I needed. I do a double-wrap of the camera strap just in case I get clumsy. I have the best luck holding steady for those long shots by adjusting the height to chest level. That way, I can tuck my elbows in tight to my sides for added stability.
www.georgiaseitz.com/public/dmclibtat.pdf
Plate V
fig. 25
Floating rings can be thrown off a chain or off the second half of a split ring. Please, find it here: www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/TipsTechniques.htm
file in jpg format is here: flic.kr/p/2hN6jPJ
This photo shows the proper way to measure the length of your penis using a ruler. For more info please visit my how to at www.micropenis.info/2013/07/do-i-have-micropenis.html
This is my art, please attribute properly if you decide to use it for whatever reason
The screen I'm using is the simplest and cheapest version you can make. Both types of screen can be found at a hardware or feed store.
In a world filled with kitchen chaos. Someone have to put an end to it. So out of the depths of minerals comes... The "ATEEM Granite heroes" , lomics.co/l/LZkmOP6bxD
Download Lomics:
IOS - m.onelink.me/de143c61
Android - m.onelink.me/5301f4f0
Here's more about Comic Life, how to use it, and examples of how I (and my staff!) integrate it into my lessons!
Posting this since it got some attention at PetaPixel
petapixel.com/2014/09/30/built-lightbox-0/
I propped a curved piece of printer paper up against some cardboard. I positioned the setup so my flash was on one side and a mirror was on the other. That’s it! The flash is a cheapo Yongnuo triggered remotely. The stand and umbrella are also just the cheapest things on Amazon. My whole strobist kit cost less than $150 and I certainly didn’t buy it for this one photo.
The makeup vanity just happened to be a convenient place — I could have used any horizontal surface near a mirror. I saw a bunch of tutorials for lightboxes that involved multiple lights, all sorts of materials like plexiglass with white cloth. Not necessary!
That is just how I do it, it's an alternative method to do it. Actually I don't use to avoid the "blip" of color that often.
Refer also to Jane Eborall's page here: www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/noblips.pdf
and Frivole's blog post here: leblogdefrivole.blogspot.com/2013/09/something-new.html
That idea comes from a drawing by Gina, and I've been working around it for months, till I got it. From inside a split ring, pull out a loop as in the dimpled ring, work a mock ring and continue the normal split ring; then, first close the split ring and second close the mock ring. What can you do with the new propeller-shaped design? I'm looking forward to see your patterns! It could be the tatting summer game!
De Strakke Hand again created a wallpainting on a house in Utrecht. It's a selfportrait in the window Gerard Dou painted in 1657
Camtech:
HowTo the making of Gerard Duo (Huawei)
The images are then positioned in hugin (manually setting the control points; the autopano-sift option doesn't work very well with fish-eye images. There is a proposal in the Google Summer of Code to implement the feature matching in the projection space, this should help a lot).
Each image is warped into a bit of equirectangular projection. Enblend is then used to blend the images together.
(I stole the idea of the floating images from manu; his explanations are much better)
You can also see how this would be transformed into a small planet.
1. Soak in soapy water.
2. Transfer to mesh bag and rinse in bathtub.
3. Use laundry basket, lined with towel, to carry to living room.
4. Dump out on towels on living room floor, with fan blowing.
For the full story and discussion see the blog post:
Make a hexagon template with an old plastic container, or some card stock (like I did). If you're just beginning, you should start with at least a 1.5 inch template, although I used a 2 inch hexagon for this tutorial.
An instructional video for a few types of Panda Portraits. I totally missed the headtube of my "headtube panda" attempt -- it's more like the handlebar panda, I guess.
I should shave and get a haircut next time. I'll take requests on other panda types.
30 seconds.
The shirt is this master/slave shirt from onelesscar.
Where do the images come from in a stereographic projection? here is the answer.
This is a ripoff of manu's image, with gadl's comment included.
Sometimes I over-complicate things, so this day I was at Bakery On The Common (in Natick - it's awesome. Wifi'd too, btw!).
I was determined to capture the basics of my business on index cards. For some reason I snapped this picture and it's a pretty damn good summary of how I think ... and how you should all be thinking if you want to use social media and community to grow YOUR business.
The colour of your pulp is always darker than the resulting paper. Using construction paper and coloured paper for your 'dye' will create a wider gap between pulp and paper colour. If you want a bright colour, just really add lots of coloured paper to your pulp.
For a smoother finish, slap your paper up on a piece of glass like a window or sliding glass door. You can also leave it stuck to one 'felt' and clothes-pin it up (by the fabric, so the paper isn't marred), or you can remove the sheet from both 'felts' and let it dry, this will give you a rougher sheet.
Depending where you live, time to dry will vary. Give it overnight and check.
Side-by-side comparisons of drying techniques follow, as do examples of how different writing/drawing implements look on this kind of handmade paper.