This is from a how-to guide I wrote on making a blood sponge bag, an easily-hidden effect to make blood appear on demand.

Read all about it at www.props.eric-hart.com/how-to/blood-sponge-bag/

I forgot... maybe not everyone know how to cut equilateral triangle, I prefer to do it this way from strip of paper, advantage is that you can go on with it as long as you have enough paper

Another how-to post on my blog!

A textbook on lettering and sign painting, International Correspondence Schools, 1902

I've written a guide to using flash for Utata. It's much more handy and less illegal than my originally planned article, A Guide to Flashing.

Flash, a-ah, king of the impossible

Every child - he's a mighty flash

Used the running pliers to break many of the score lines. And grozier/breaking plier combo for the rest. It's really easy to get lost so I'm careful to replace each piece in the figure as I finish working with it- made it easy to take the pictures too :)

Blog post with more pictures, tips,etc www.mosaicsmith.com/2012/08/more-how-to-make-glass-number...

This is how I made my quilting tool....! :-))

I used one of the broken pieces to "fill in the bits that were missing!

I've got these overhead lights in my house that are fairly new. I need to paint this room, including the ceiling and also replace the bulb.

But there's no hardware of any kind. No screws, tabs, nothing. I can't twist the glass lamp part nor can I get the metal surround to budge. I can't seem to push up with the glass. Basically, I can't see any way into this light and I can't get any part to even jiggle in any direction.

So I ask thee of Flickrstan, how on earth am I supposed to disassemble this?

The BristleBot is a vibrobot with an agenda.

It's built with a vibrating pager motor and the busines end of a toothbrush that has slanted bristles.

Refer also to Jane Eborall's pages here:

www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/SCMR.pdf

and here:

www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/SCMRClosing.pdf

and here, the GR-8 Shuttles site (by Gary and Randy Houtz):

www.gr-8shuttles.com/index.shtml

Gary and Randy Houtz named and popularized the SCMR.

almost every little chinese kid growing up in the 80s-90s will remember having these animals on their clothing ... or blankets ... thermos bottle ... playgrounds ... murals

Little illustrations made for the "How to" section on Wired Italia

So this is the unedited version of yesterday's picture, featuring a bottle of lovely Tesco's brandy and a large breadknife from my kitchen.

The hair for the 366 was made up from about 5 different pictures of Captain Jack, with little bits snipped out and layered on top of each other. The beads in the hair are handy for covering up lazy blending (which is often the case when you need to get a picture done in an hour or two!). The cutlass was from a fancy dress site, and blurred to match the foreground blur, and the brandy label came from a vintage booze site. The hat and bandana were both put on separately, again to cover messiness at the top of the hair.

Finally it was taken into lightroom using the 300 preset, warmed up slightly, and had a cool filter layered on top of it. The last step was to add my favourite texture on overlay and erase it slightly around the main section of the picture.

Helps keep seam allowance in place when sewing.

Step by step found here!

I thought also that I might update how I shoot and stitch my panoramas.

Here are the 8 images that I have to take to cover the whole sphere: one up (the zenith), one down (the nadir), and 6 portrait shots all around, each at 60°.

See the next step.

a simple how-to on the blog

180 face wash , lomics.co/l/0aPfuG4fwm

Download Lomics:

IOS - m.onelink.me/de143c61

Android - m.onelink.me/5301f4f0

An open secret of Nate Nielson’s, these craft beads are just about the width of one stud. They’re very soft, so they don’t clutch well at all. But if you’re building for pictures or no-touch display, they’re an effective and incredibly affordable way of getting LEGO to mate anti-stud to anti-stud. They work best if one side is deeper than the other. If you want to do plate to plate, you have to trim them down with a Sword of Exact Zero or similar tool.

They can also be used as muzzles for space guns. I'm pretty sure I bought these at a Michael's in New Jersey, though it could've also been this other place whose name escapes me at the moment.

How I built it.

Nothing fancy, actually.

howto

Final photo "The dragon attacks" (out of "A foolish battle") can be found in my stream / LEGO-album / A foolish battle-album.

And yes.. another setup with strings attached to everything I could find ;-)

I needed several hours before the final photo was processed. At first the little string-problem had to be solved. Then I needed a background - the first photos were shot in front of the wooden board you might have seen in some of my other photos. After processing I was not glad with the result. The composition was quite horrible.. so I started again, placed everything in front of the white wall, hung the dragon in a higher position etc until everything seemed to look well.

And after three replacing uploads within the first minutes I'm quite happy with the result.

Tutorial que achei na web.. e funciona! Adorei! Olhem isso:

sewmamasew.com/blog2/?p=1398

Beijos!

Made them originally for a different project, but they looked good as a spring decoration in 1:6. I'll be doing a tutorial later today or tomorrow, so check back if you're interested.

[edit] Here it is - the full "How to". [/edit]

ADVANCED TECHNIQUES ONLY: See? What could be better than an awesome sandwich? Adding whipped cream, that's what.

This is how I shot my peppers in the glass shot.

The glass is from Pier One. It has an angled top and a crackle finish bottom.

I took the pic at about 4 in the afternoon so I had a little outside light, but most of my shots are taken when it's dark outside. Getting up and shooting first thing in the morning (cause it ain't a paying gig) ranks lower on the list than, oh, sleeping.

I always shoot tripod and this one is a manfrotto (stolen) borrowed from a co-worker. The lights are Lowel Ego lights that each use two- 27 watt 5500k fluorescent bulbs. I acquired (someone left it for a long time and I "borrowed" it) Shure mic stand. I simply slid the Lowel light onto the boom and adjusted it over the shot.

The white card up on the front right is foam board. One side is white and I spray adhered silver wrapping paper I had left over from Christmas. I bought a full board, cut it in half, and attached the wrapping paper. If I had some gold paper, I'd of used that on the other side of one of the boards.

The sweep and paper were included in a Lowel kit I found on Ebay. Both lights and the sweep were about $65 bucks. The seller had misspelled Lowel so it required creative searching to find it.

Behind the Lowel light on the mic stand are two cheap hardware store industrial light holders (about $4 USD each) and my spare 27 watt lights to light the background.

Shot with a Canon 1Ds Mark II with a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens. I set an auto white balance and do almost no post processing in Photoshop. I run a custom edge mask workflow to minimize artifacting and keep my iStockphoto approval ratio above my abysmal 30%.

Hope that helps. And my camera goes with me every day so if you break into my house the best you can hope for is to meet my dog ;)

This is my recollection of using a piece of film to pull out the film leader from inside a 35mm canister. I read this somewhere but I can't remember where. Please let me know if you do.

The arrow is pointing in the direction you're going to insert this into the canister. The hooks were cut into the sprockets to catch the sprockets of the film leader. This is just an illustration, you should cut more notches.

Once you have enough of this film puller in the canister turn the spindle counterclockwise (if you're looking at the canister with the spindle pointing towards you) until you feel the hooks catch. Slowly pull the film puller out. If things work it should drag out the film leader. You may have to try more than once.

I don't use this anymore since I just went out and bought a two dollar commercial film puller.

Methods for adding beads in needle tatting.

For shuttle tatting, please refer to this drawing: flic.kr/p/azMAXb

Why check a bag, ever, when I can fit what I need for up to a month in a single rollaboard and second small bag?

The new year is upon us but it needn’t be filled with broken resolutions, especially if you’ve committed yourself to create a new photography website (or plan on refreshing one you already have). In this guide, I’ll be helping you to:

Define your objectives.

Understand the ...

Read on at: emulsive.org/articles/how-to/how-to-build-a-photography-w...

Filed under: #Articles, #How-to, #HowTo, #PhotographyWebsite

#shootfilmbenice #filmphotography # believeinfilm

I wanted to send a holiday greeting to my clients and a few other people. Seeing how I make infographics for a living, what better way to say "Happy Holidays!" than with a diagram.

bydavvi.com

Measurement is for size 80 thread. I don't know if that is a new method, please tell me!

An update from Jane Eborall: she has used it on a doodle (janeeborall.freeservers.com/GiraffeTree.pdf). Then it's not a new method! Thanks to the Tatting Designer group on FB, there's no more doubt.

Here is the surface quality of the paper, depending on different kinds of drying styles. [scans]

Take one old server.

Attack with screw driver and hammer late on a Friday afternoon.

The result is a stylish bookshelf. I'm currently in negotiations with Ikea to produce more. ;)

Going it at about a 45-degree angle, dip your screen into your pulp, tilting it further as you go, so you're easing the screen into the pulp.

Little illustrations made for the "How to" section on Wired Italia

Note how the even details are printed and folded in such a way as to be visible in the final origami crane.

Done.

The shutter is opened.

I did not build a shutter for my 45 pinhole camera. And it went well for the past few years.

Recently I found that, the failure rate was too high, because of not using a shutter.

In most of the cases, the skin color of my hand was captured by the camera.

I am not young anymore, my hand can not move as fast as before.

So, a shutter might solve the problem, right?

Let me test it.

for the group pimpmypic www.flickr.com/groups/pimpmypixels/discuss/72157605211962...

I've been asked a few times how I made this image, so below I try to explain.

For me Photoshop is really a trial and error process where I'm constantly trying things so I have no straight process to recommend. However, were I to recreate this image again:

The first step would be to isolate the portrait from the background (rough hand lasso and copy, then paste as a layer on a white back ground).

I'd then make another copy of that layer (to add as a third layer later but keep hidden for now). in the case of this image I had also made a layer solely of her lips and one of her eyes to adjust them separately before merging the all the layers for the final image.

Below are the layers I'd make

Layer 1 = white backgroud

Layer 2 = portrait isolated

Layer 3 = prortrait isolated copy

Layer 4 = eyes only

Layer 5 = lips only

Next step would be to lighten layer 2 considerably using a curve adjustment (currently this layer and the background would be the only ones showing)

Then "blur" with Gaussian blur or "lens blur" a lot , to be still vaguely discernible as a face, but real blurry (lookup Orton Effect online for a tutorial of where I'm going with this step and the next).

Next step is to take the unadulterated portrait layer (Layer 3) and lighten it considerably with curve adjustments. Now "multipy" Layer 2 and Layer 3 to blend the

two layers together.

Once the layers 2 and 3 are "multiplied" together there is an underglow to the face. At this point I'd merge the two layers flat and again lighten considerably with curves so the hair was blond. Even adjusting the color curves

(yellow, red, blue) helps lighten the image further. Specifically I find the lightening of yellow really helps get the skin closer to white while retaining some shadow..

Switching the image to Black and White at this point allows it to be just that (remember the saved but undisplayed -hidden - layers of the lips and eyes in color to add back

later).

In Photoshop CS3 in switching to BW you have greater control and can again adjust the colors independently making yellow and red color channels lighter.

Now to blend the BW face with the white background is simply a mater of using the eraser tool at about 5% to go over and over the edges working inward to make the hair

blend without a hard edge. You may even want to partially erase other areas (forehead, cheeks) in this way to again get very white.

Then finally I added back the eyes and lips and used the blur tool to soften the hard edges. some color adjustments on both allowed them to be softer and lighter than the

originals, but I liked the pop of color.

Flatten all layers, play with curves one last time and "save as"...your done.

There you have it for what its worth.

This was my first try at highkey so I'm sure with subsequent trials I'd get a more refined process.

See my Lego minifig costume how-to for more info on this photo.

And another one because flickr apparently can't stop changing things. ugh

1. (yellow) click the arrow (facing to the right)

2. (pink) Make sure you click BBCode for posting to the forums

3. (green) choose a size, 640 is a good resolution to DoA

4. (purple) Copy the code and paste it into DoA!

Because this sort of thing doesn't warrant an entire blog post.

For 1/4 cup of buttermilk, use 3/4 teaspoon vinegar. For 1/3 cup increments, use 1 teaspoon vinegar. For 1/2 cup, use 1 1/2 teaspoons vinegar.

This sketch shows the proper method to measure the penis of your girth using a measuring tape. For more information please visit my how to measure your penis article at www.micropenis.info/2013/07/do-i-have-micropenis.html

This is my sketch, please attribute properly if you use it!

20200703_HowTo_Cruiseships

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