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商品詳細
ブランド: Leica (ライカ)
商品名: Summilux-M (ズミルックス) 35mm f/1.4 ASPH 6bit
シリアル: 4080358
マウント: ライカ Mマウント
付属品: フロントキャップ、リアキャップ、12589フード、フードキャップ、専用ケース
[商品状態]
美品：殆ど使用されていない、きれいな状態
[外観]
ピントリングにわずかに使用感が見られますが、その他非常にきれいな状態です。
塗装剥がれや目立つキズなどはございません。
詳しい状態は商品写真をご覧下さい。
[光学]
光を当ててよく見るとわずかにチリ(1-2ヶ所)がありますが、写真には全く影響の無い程度です。
[動作]
ピントリング、絞りリングともに動作は良好です。絞り羽根もきれいな状態です。安心してお使い頂けます。
Shot with 100mm f/2.8L IS USM. Crazy sharpness, colors and huge magnification (1:1, standard for macros).
Dickson City, PA. June 2015.
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If you would like to use THIS picture in any sort of media elsewhere (such as newspaper or article), please send me a Flickrmail or send me an email at natehenderson6@gmail.com.
The last photo I posted of the Kaypro 1, I expressed that I found it puzzling Kaypro ditched the "universal" motherboard that most of their computers used, in favor of adapting a new board from the Kaypro 10 model.
Well after some research it seems that as the CP/M market died, Kaypro wanted to reduce the number of cp/m machines they produced, which in 1985 consisted of the Kaypro 4, New 2, 2x, and Kaypro 10.
The 4/new2/2x all shared the same internals, minus some very minor differences in hardware (such as having or not having a real time clock, or internal modem). The Kaypro 10 used a different board than the other computers.
I guess the thinking for ditching the "universal" board for 10 style board with the Kaypro 1 was that the ten had sold well for Kaypro, and continued to sell well. While the sales of the floppy disk based systems (the 4 et al.) had fallen off considerably.
So in order to save costs, Kaypro ditched the universal board in favor of the 10 board, and created the 1.
This actually almost makes the "1" model name make sense because it's more in line with "10" and the "1" replaced several models, with just 1 model.
Some contemporary literature mentions Kaypro working on or released a Kaypro with one disk drive, that would list for $995. I think that these statements are probably all incorrect, and the people writing them probably were refering to the Kaypro 1. The Kaypro II was called the II because it had two drives- so industry writers may have mistakenly thought the Kaypro 1 would be released with only one disk drive, going by the name. Or other simple miscommunication between Kaypro and the press about the 1 could have lead to the exact same mistake.
Although the 1 had just been introduced for 1986 and took advantage of Kaypro 10 parts... Kaypro also announced in 1986 that production would be ceasing on the 10! They also stated the 1 would be dropped and the 2x would be brought back... despite the announcement apparently Kaypro realized how silly this would be, and the 2x was never brought back. The 1 became the sole cp/m offering from Kaypro in 1987, and production of all kaypro portables (including the MS-DOS 16 and 16/2) ceased later that year.
Russian Zenit ~1960.Re-branded Revueflex for German market. Analog (film). No batteries, no electronics or automatic, or light measuring.
Sunflex IV TLR
Japanese 6x6 twin-lens reflex camera.
Viewing lens: Elnor Anastigmat f/3.5 75mm, sn #16327.
Taking lens: Elnor Anastigmat f/3.5 75mm, sn #16267; f/3.5 - f/22
Shutter: Nippon Kōsokki NKS-SC rim-set shutter (B, 1-200).
Body serial: no body serial number can be found.
Manufacturer: Tōkyō Kōgaku Kikai K.K.(東京光学機械㈱,Tokyo Optical Comany, later Topcon).
Weight: 905 grams
Production: Quantity unknown
Era: early 1950s.
Rarity: Extremely rare (****)
The camera is in near-mint condition.
© Dirk HR Spennemann 2012, All Rights Reserved
For the past few weeks I've been contemplating on getting the D700 because I want something to accompany my Nikon F100 when digital shots would just be more appropriate. Since I don't own a tripod, it's often hard for me to bring my Nikon F100 around with me at night because I usually shoot with ISO 400 film and that's too slow for some handheld shots I want to take. I want something that I can ride with at night without lugging around a tripod.
So why didn't I go with the D7000 or another DX format SLR?
After playing with the D80 in the summer, I realized that I just don't like the smaller viewfinder and the way that my 50mm would be cropped into a mid-telephoto. Which meant that if I invested in a d7000 or d90 I'd have to buy a 35mm to get the same FOV as my nifty-fifty. On top of that, I also plan on buying a wide angle lens to compliment my street shots but as of now I'm not sure which one to get. Any recommendations? I'm thinking of the Nikkor 24mm f/2.8. Overall I think the D700 will be a good partner for my first love.
Anywho, I will be getting one of my films developed tomorrow so I'll post some exposures from that roll of film and then I'll start shooting with my new toy.
November 30th will be one year since I started photography and I feel like I've learned so much since then. I started out with a point and shoot, then a film SLR, and soon I'll be shooting with a digital SLR.
I've never been to photography school but I'm glad I had flickr to learn from.
They say "One man's trash is another man's treasure". Saw someone threw away this vintage thing and I simply couldn't resist myself from picking it up for my collection. Thankfully enough, this player's internal electronics are all good and kicking, but I couldn't verify if it still plays. Created a 9-exposure HDR and applied some mild PS layering stuff.
The vintage Shure model 51 microphone. I have it setup to use with the Johnson Ranger. It has great sounding audio on AM.
At the Caps game (Caps FTW!!) last night, someone kicked my phone from one step into my beer that was sitting on the step below. I didn't notice for a while. The beer drenched phone was very unhappy.
Since it's not working anyway (turns on, none of the buttons work), I figured I would perform some surgery to see if I could clear the circuit board of beer gunk. It's an old phone (like, really old), so no loss if it doesn't work. Was hoping to hold off on buying a new one, hoping against hope for a CDMA iPhone...
Update: I washed it with water first to clear the gunk, then cleaned the circuit board and the buttons (after removing it further from the housing) with rubbing alcohol and a q-tip and let it rest over night to dry. Now all the buttons work, but I can't get a signal at all. But hey, at least I can get all my contacts off the phone!
Jan 29 2017 [Unexpected] Tragic news out of Quebec City tonight as we are learning of a shooting in a Quebec City mosque that killed at least 5 people. The news is unravelling very slowly so details aren't all that clear at the moment. So sad to hear this.. my heart goes out to the victims and their families. One minute someone is praying in peace and security and in the next minute the world's paranoia comes and takes their lives. I know all Canadians will stand up against this and support one another to end this type of hatred and sensless violence. It just seems crazy I even have to say that.. what a world we're creating...
newest addition to the fold. it was at this point that i realized i have become a collector of sorts - but my excitement is in actually shooting them. this one was bequeathed to me by my friend taj, and looked in great condition aside from the 35mm 2.8 lens attatched to it that would not focus. after some research i found that the electronics in this make of the SL35 series tends to fail more often than not, so i was a bit nervous - but, popped a battery in and the camera appears to be metering fine. ordered a 50mm 1.8 from overseas (which took forever to get here) and we're finally set. the 35mm has been sent out for repair. excited to see what this system can do. beautiful camera.
Bottom spec camera of the FR series the FRII was aperture priority automatic exposure only. It was also battery dependent like the FR and FRI. This one completes my FR series collection.
This was rescued from a charity shop in Grantown-on-Spey along with a Tamron 80-210 model 103A.
1977-1981
The Nixie Watch project plods on! Software development begins.
Every project needs to go through this phase, at least in my scheme of handling things.
Here we see the Development Environment of Kings hosting an Atmel ATTiny861 microcontroller (MCU). Just out of shot is my laptop, upon which I wrote software for the MCU that causes it to blink an LED. This is a nice quick way to make sure that I haven't fried the chip and that I've wired everything up properly. For the programmers out there, I consider this step to be the "Hello World" of MCU programming - though this implementation is a bit more sophisticated than it needs to be; the LED blink is driven by a timer interrupt.
This version differs from the IN-14 clock version linked above in that it's all powered by batteries. One of the challenges of designing the watch software will be to set it up so that the MCU draws a minimum of power - not a pressing issue for a clock which is going to be plugged in to a wall socket, but critical for a thing like this which I would like to run for months on a trickle of current.
The little black box in the center right contains 2 AA batteries, which are standing in for the single lithium watch battery which will run the MCU in the real watch. Below it is the display power supply with its own battery. Getting the MCU and display working together is going to be the tricky part. To conserve power, the MCU will run a program that will cause it to immediately shut itself off - but not quite all the way off; it'll be just awake enough to notice when the display power supply fires up. That is, when the watch's wearer presses the button to show the time. At that point the chip will awaken, fetch the time from a crystal-based real time clock chip (not yet wired up), and start showing it on the nixies. When the wearer releases the show-time button, the display power supply will be disconnected and the MCU will notice that, stop trying to display the time, and hibernate again.
Interestingly, if you find such things interesting, this is the way most battery powered computerized widgets work; for instance, games on the Nintendo Game Boy (which I used to program, back when I was younger and even dumber) spend most of their time with the main processor asleep like that. At least they do if they were written well.
After a bit more fiddling I will be able to wire this to the display prototype and it will start being a watch - at least in the functional sense. Trying to wear the prototype on your arm would be like wearing a very geeky buckler.
What more could I want? I have actually spent hours working on our financial numbers today using both the ipad and laptop. I have been horribly neglectful about that all year and it took cover to get caught up. Funny, that it coincides with when I returned to Flickr and joined Kindle Unlimited. Possible cause/correlation. 274/365
Pleasant Hills, PA. April 2017.
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If you would like to use THIS picture in any sort of media elsewhere (such as newspaper or article), please send me a Flickrmail or send me an email at natehenderson6@gmail.com
■ 올 최대 전략 스마트폰 28일(한국시각 기준) 전 세계 동시 공개
□ 세계 6개 도시에서 24시간 이내 행사 완료
□ 28일 한국 출시 이어 세계 170여 통신사 순차 공급 예정
■ ‘Simple is the New Smart’ 컨셉트 반영
□ 사용자 경험 최우선의 G시리즈 철학 계승
■ 글로벌 런칭 첫 쿼드HD 스마트폰
□ 쿼드HD(2,560x1,440) IPS 디스플레이 탑재
□ 538ppi 초고해상도 구현… HD의 4배, 풀HD의 2배
■ 레이저 오토 포커스로 빠르게 초점 잡는 카메라
□ 후면에서 레이저 빔 쏘아 피사체와의 거리를 초고속으로 측정
□ 어두운 곳에서도 선명하게 찍히는 전면 카메라
□ 오디오까지 배려한 비디오 레코딩
■ 심플함을 담은 입체 디자인
□ 매끈한 일체감 느껴지는 전면 디자인에 심플한 GUI 적용
□ 후면엔 인체공학적 곡률 채택해 한 손에 들어오는 그립감 구현
□ 메탈릭 스킨 후면 커버, 더 편해진 후면키 채택
■ 사용자를 이해하는 진정한 스마트 UX
□ 빅데이터 분석해 오타 줄여주는 ‘스마트 키보드’
□ 사용 패턴 기억해 맞춤형 정보 제공하는 ‘스마트 알림이’
□ 노크 코드, 컨텐츠 잠금, 킬스위치로 강화된 ‘스마트 시큐리티’
※ Social LG전자 (social.lge.co.kr/newsroom) 에서 관련 보도자료를 확인하실 수 있습니다.
Here is my HR-10B receiver I picked up recently at a local hamfest. A previous owner had modified the power supply by removing the tube rectifier (6X4) and replaced it with silicon rectifiers (2.5 Amp 1000 V). Also, where the 6X4 rectifier tube was located an OB2 voltage regulator tube was put in. This is regulating the screen supply for better stability. He had also put in two chokes in the power supply for better regulation and filtering. I cleaned it up some and did a complete alignment. It seems to work fairly well for what it is. The cabinet needs repainting but otherwise it is in pretty good shape. It needs the band switch knob.