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Camera: Leica M6
Lens: Zeiss Biogon 2,8/25 ZM
Film: Kodak T-Max 400 (400-2TMY), Exposure Index 400
Developer: Ilfotec DD-X
Dilution & Time: 1:4, 8.5 minutes @ 22 Degrees C
As promised since our update to the Venus, Isis and Freya bodies are now complete and our developer kits have been updated we will now reopen our applications to apply to be a Belleza Mesh Creator....
Details on our blog: BELLEZA MESH CREATOR APPLICATION & AGREEMENT – NOW OPEN!
The former Gold Leaf Studio near 5th and I Streets in the Mount Vernon Triangle is now the subject of debate regarding the site's future development. While the building itself isn't terribly special, it would be more interesting to include it into whatever condo block the developers have in mind for the site.
dc.curbed.com/archives/2013/09/space-next-to-former-gold-...
Camera: Ricoh kr-5 super II
lens: zoom 35-70 f3.5-4.5
Film: Ilford HP+ 400 asa (expired)
Developer: Kodak Tmax 1+4 9 min.
negative scan
Event: NEC Classic Motor Show
Location: National Exhibition Centre (NEC), Birmingham, UK
Camera: Canon EOS 5
Lens(s): Canon EF 50mm f/1.4
Film: Ilford HP5+
Shot ISO: 400
Exposure: f/2.8 or f/2 - 1/60 mostly
Light Meter: Camera
Lighting: Overhead LED
Mounting: Hand-held
Firing: Shutter button
Developer: Ilford DD-X(1+4) for 10 mins
Scanner: Epson V800
Post: Adobe Lightroom & Photoshop (dust removal)
Gravestone of two, I guess brothers (at least in arms): older Ivan (Иван Иванович Буртик) and younger Peter (Петр Иванович Буртик)
There is a report which says where Ivan was buried just after battle of Poznań in which he died: pamyat-naroda.ru/heroes/memorial-chelovek_donesenie80909860/
Report says:
Ivan Ivanovitch Burtik
Date of birth: 1915
Place of birth: Byelorussian SSR, Brest region, Brest district, village Kolodno
Place of conscription: 08/06/1944 Brest RVK, Byelorussian SSR, Brest region, Brest district
Last place of service: 236th Infantry Division
Date of leave: 21.02.1945
Reason for leave: killed
Primary burial place: Poland, Poznań Voivodeship, Poznań, Piłsudski str., on the square, between the house and the theater, a mass grave.
Zorki 1D - №4830526
Industar-22 1:3,5 f=50mm P N5414989
Fomapan 200
Fomadon Excel Stock (for 6:30min)
Event: Trentham Gardens Classic & Retro Show
Location: Trentham, Staffordshire
Camera: Mamiya RB67 Pro-S
Lens(s): Mamiya Sekor-C 90mm f/3.8
Film: Harman Phoenix 200
Shot ISO: 200
Light Meter: Weston Master II
Lighting: Overcast & Heavy Rain
Mounting: Hand Held
Firing: Shutter Button
Developer: Bellini C-41 Kit
Scanner: Epson V800
Post: Adobe Lightroom & Photoshop (dust removal)
Konica Hexar RF + Carl Zeiss Distagon 35/1.4 ZM + Foma Retropan 320 Soft Black&White Film / Developed By Me / Scan By Noritsu HQ-1800 @ Fengyue (The Highest Quality Scan)
Developer: Foma Retro Special (Stock) 5 Min @ 21 Degree
Stopper: Ilford Ilfostop
Fixer: Spur Ultrafix
Wash Aid: Fotospeed WA50
Wetting Agent: Kodak Photo-Flo
Developer stamp on back reads "This is a Kodacolor Print. Made by Kodak. July 1963. L.W. Ward, Cedar Rapids, Iowa."
Photo was found on eBay.
I love this picture. Combination of 1970s film and 1930s developer. Really looks like it a 1950s vintage. Helps to have shitty glass.... lol Helps that the sun was behind me for this shot.
‘Round-about town with the Lomography Diana + 20mm glass lens “fisheye” on a Nikon F4s (think thousand dollar holga with meter and auto film advance) with long expired Kodak Plus X Pan film. Film was shot at ISO 100 and developed one shot in homebrew Edwal 12 developer – 1:10, stand developed for 44 minutes. It was overcast and late in the day, sun was often behind the subjects and interfered with some of the scenes, but that is what you get. The church has been here probably since the 1930s and I only noticed it was being torn down and may be the last shots I could get of it, so I did what I could. I love this developer with this film. It is a fine grain developer and certainly popular with Plus-X over the decades.
Since this if the first time using a strict Edwal 12 formula in dilution and stand developing, I think these shots could have used a bit more development time. Any combination of slightly more light (or proper light), more dev time, or decrease the dilution. We’ll see on round 2.
Camera: Holga 135BC
Film: Kentmere Pan 400
Developer: Rodinal 1+50 20min @ 20ºC
agitation every 2 min.
Olympus E-M5 camera to (scan) digitize negative
Some much needed brightness while waiting for a car service
Fujinon 27mm F/2.8 & Fuji X-T3
Raw edited with Iriident Developer
For Processing BW Film - Not For Drinking!
The FPP’s new Caffenol Developer for Black and White Processing at home! CUP O’ JOE is a powder solution in a handy pouch that when mixed with water produces 1 Liter of BW Home Developing solution that will process up to 4 rolls of 35mm, 120 or 8 4x5 sheets of BW film.
filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-caffe...
A frozen moment in time - a snap of the atmosphere at the "Kopitiam" local deli. Shooting through the glazed screen from inside the restaurant towards the fresco.
A waiter bringing in the orders to the customers. It was a moment before the sunset.
LEICA M3 double stroke, Leica 5cm F1.5 Summarit, Fujifilm Neopan 400 (courtesy of Hiro-san), Kodak Tmax Developer 1:100, Home - Development, 2hr 30 minutes, Ilfospeed Rapid Fixer 1/4 6 minutes, Wide Open
For Processing BW Film - Not For Drinking!
The FPP’s new Caffenol Developer for Black and White Processing at home! CUP O’ JOE is a powder solution in a handy pouch that when mixed with water produces 1 Liter of BW Home Developing solution that will process up to 4 rolls of 35mm, 120 or 8 4x5 sheets of BW film.
filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-caffe...
Paper negative shot with Crown Graphic / 127mm Kodak Ektar lens and developed in LPD paper developer.
The Film Photography Project now brings you D96 B/W negative developer. Long used in the motion picture industry as the standard B/W developer, but previously only available in very large quantities. We now have it available in powder to make 1 US Gallon.
D96 is a lower contrast film developer with the ability to increase the contrast by increasing your developing times or agitation. We have tested this developer with not only cinema films like X2 (Eastman Double-X), ORWO Cinema Films and FPP LOW ISO BW, but with standard B/W films like Kodak Tri-X. T-Max and Ilford FP4 an HP5 films.
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
Ja fa uns mesos que volia provar algun sistema de revelat invers "casolà" per a pel·licula en blanc i negre. M'explico: el revelat invers (reversal en anglès) és aquell que aconsegueix positius directes a la pel·licula. S'anomena així perque tota pel·licula primer cal revelar-la com a negatiu, i dins del propi revelat, posteriorment es capgira el que es negatiu per positiu, tant en color com en blanc i negre. El revelat invers en color és el anomenat E6 i l'he fet alguna vegada sense problemes, amb "kits" comercials.
Per al revelat invers en blanc i negre també hi ha "kits" comercials, però amb l'afegit que alguns dels liquids, en especial el "bleach" o blanquejador son especialment toxics i perillosos. Però molt, eh (permanganat potassic i sobretot dicromat potassic, a sobre barrejats amb acid sulfuric).
Per això he estat experimentant amb diversos procesos "reversal" alternatius amb quimics menys angoixants (també s'han de tractar amb cura, però el mateix es pot dir de tota la resta de química fotogràfica). He provat variacions del més comentat, basat en disolucions de peroxid d'hidrogen (aigua oxigenada) a 40º, però els resultats foren decebedors, de pobres a nuls. En el cas que em mig funcionà, la pel·licula quedà plena de taques i marques.
Finalment vaig provar un altre procés basat en un doble bany blanquejador: clorur ferric primer, i amoniac després. I funciona!!! Amb bons resultats a la primera i tot a temperatura ambient de 20º!
En primer lloc faig servir un revelador normal de blanc i negre, però força potent, en aquest cas HC110 però en dilució A, la més concentrada, i durant 8 minuts. Després d'un bany d'aigua, ve la sol·lució de clorur ferric 1+1 (reaprofitable), un altre bany d'aclarit, el amoniac 4+1 (força concentrat), un seguent bany d'aclarit, i finalment una solució de metabisulfit de sodi de 30 gr. x litre (i de nou aclarit amb aigua).
En aquest punt, cal fer una cosa que tot el sentit del fotograf analogic li diu que no, i és obrir el tanc de revelat i exposar la pel·licula directament a la llum d'una bombeta incandescent una bona estona, ben be un minut. Fins i tot millor treure la pel·licula de l'espiral per a exposar-la be. El blanquejador ha dissolt les parts ja revelades, pel que ara només queden les sals de plata no exposades amb la càmera. Es veu clarament que està bé si s'aprecien les imatges ja en positiu però força palides. A mi em varen quedar més aviat grogues perquè no vaig fer un bany prou intents després del clorur ferric, que ho tenyeix tot de groc (però amb més rentat queden més blanques). A partir d'aqui es pot fer la resta del procés amb llum. Només resta tornar a revelar la pel·licula amb revelador normal i corrent, rentar i finalment fixar-ho com sempre.
La intenció final de revelar invers no és tant obtenir diapositives en blanc i negre, sino pel·licules de 8mm i 16mm que pugui projectar en pantalla com es feia abans. I vaig pel bon camí!
Aqui teniu el video que m'ha servit per aprendre aquest procés, gracies a Analog Resurgence (que ho explica amb detall):
www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlYVI31WnIw&t=535s
=====================================
I've been wanting to try some "homemade" reverse developing process for black and white film for a few months now. Let me explain: the reverse development is one that achieves direct positives in the film. It is called so because every film must first be developed as a negative, and later in the process itself, what is negative is chemically reversed for positive, both in color and in black and white. The reverse color proces is called E6 and I have done it once without problems, with commercial kits.
There are also commercial kits for black and white reverse development, but with the addition that some of the liquids, especially the bleach, are particularly toxic and dangerous. And I mean a lot (potassium permanganate and especially potassium dichromate, mixed with sulfuric).
So I've been experimenting with various alternative reversal processes with less distressing chemicals (they also need to be handled with care, but the same can be said for all other photographic chemistry). I have tried variations of the most discussed, based on hot solutions of hydrogen peroxide (oxygenated water) at 40º C, but the results were disappointing, from poor to nil. In the case that half worked for me, the film was full of spots and marks.
Finally I tried another process based on a double bleach bath: ferric chloride first, then ammonia. And it works!!! With good results the first time and all at an ambient temperature of 20º C!
First I use a normal black and white developer, but quite powerful, in this case HC110 but in dilution A, the most concentrated, and for 8 minutes. After a stop bath, comes the ferric chloride solution 1+1 (reusable), a long rinse bath, ammonia solution 4+1 (highly concentrated and also reusable), another long rinse bath, and finally a solution of sodium metabisulphite of 30 gr. x liter of water (and again rinsed with water).
At this point, you have to do something that all the analog photographer's sense tells you not to do, and that is to open the developer tank and expose the film directly to the light of an incandescent bulb for a long time, well a minute . Even better to remove the film from the spiral to expose it well. The bleach has dissolved the parts already revealed, so now only the silver salts not exposed to the camera remain. It is clearly seen that it is good if you appreciate the images already in positive but quite pale. They were rather yellow for me because I didn't take a bath enough times after the ferric chloride, which dyes everything yellow (but with more washing they become whiter). From here you can do the rest of the process with light. All that remains is to develop the film again with normal developer, stop bath and finally fix and wash it as usual.
The ultimate intention of reverse developing is not so much to get black and white slides, but 8mm and 16mm film that you can project on the screen as it was done before. And I'm on the right track!
Here is the video that helped me learn this process, thanks to Analog Resurgence (which explains it in detail):
This is a experimental piece that i did a few years ago of a photograph that has been manipulated during the processing stage. The darker areas of the image display where the developer has been sprayed or brushed on like a painting as the image is developed over the top.
You can see more of the art work at my website at www.markchadwick.co.uk. Thanks for viewing!
I'm already using coffee (caffenol c) as a developer for my bw films. Today I want to try to cross process a fuji nph 400 color negativ film. Took a few pictures this morning. On some blogs about caffenol there was mentioned that coffee is also able to develop these color films and is even used for paper prints. The color is almost 'washed' away but the film then is some kind of toned. I'm looking forward for the results.
Things needed are:
* instant coffee
* soda
* vitamin c
* potassium bromid
* citric acid
* fixing liquid
* a tank for the film
The film stays in the soup for about 15 minutes. The tank should be carefully agitated for the whole first minute and then three times every minute. After flushing with water the process is stopped by citric acid. The citric acid solution stays in the tank for 1-2 minutes. Then after another flushing with water fill in the fixer (e.g. Ilford Rapid Fixer or any other available for b&w films). Fixer stays for 8-12 minutes. Then wash the film following the Ilford scheme (3-6-12-24 agitations or 5-10-15-25). Last step is flushing with distilled water.
Fire Hydrant.
Taken in Alpbach, Austria.
24/6/18
Yashica Mat TLR camera with yellow filter
Ilford HP5+ 400 120 format film, 6 X 6.
Developed by me.
Rodinal 1+50, 11 mins, 20C, water stop, Fomafix p, spiral tank.
Scanned with Epson Scan V550.
Adjusted in darktable running in Linux Mint.
116007.
Nikon F100, Tri-X Pan 400, @iso 400, expired 2003.
Self developed in Barry Thornton's 2 bath developer (Bath A: 4mn, Bath B: 4mn, 21C).
The recipe is here: www.barrythornton.com/