View allAll Photos Tagged Compostable
After the tasting, ranking and learning finished, Bradford employees put the waste to work in its compost facility. | © 2012 - Curators of the University of Missouri
Thankfully, productivity isn't all about growing coffee without shade - Segundo also applies a goodly amount of coffee-pulp compost and fertilizer to El Tesoro's coffee trees every year.
After having the sieve slide off the wheelbarrow for the hundredth time, the solution dawned on me: nails in all four corners to hold it in place.
Chi fa il compost paga meno le tariffe! Con Alessio Ciacci, Assessore ambiente e partecipazione comune di Capannori
I built this compost maker in just a couple of hours. The wood was on sale for $1.97 for each log and I just drilled a hole in each end and put some rebar through the holes
En ce moment à Beauregard, c'est gros chantier de compostage dans les vignes : voilà plus de 10 jours que nous y sommes, plus que quelques jours de travail...
Terrain de jeu de l'association "Project Compost" de l'université de Davis (UC Davis). Le panneau indique comment organiser sa pile à compost.
I pulled our composter apart today and found that our waste was very compressed. I spent the next 20 minutes transferring this back into the composter, which I moved a few feet away. The smell was wonderful and the flies were great company.
Time to harvest. Wonder Worman’s Super Composting Red Wigglers were busy of the summer - and it’s time to gather up the compost.
I've tried a number of different containers for collecting kitchen compost and have finally stumbled across the perfect one. Silly that it ended up being so cheap and random.
Several layers of wetted dirt and compost later, it's ready to cook. I'm thinking that I may extend the sides forward by half a bale to allow more room for the compost to spill forward... I don't want an ugly bunch of stuff spilling out from the bin.
Made from free pallets!
I need to screen that big pile of compost on the right into the new bins. Finished compost will be used on the lawn (which looks rather sad after last year's dry summer). The pine cones and large sticks will go into a reject pile that will be left to rot by itself. Going forward, we'll be more careful about what goes into the compost bins so finished compost can be used in the garden.
To view more of my images, in this series, please click "here" !
Pelargoniums, commonly known as Geraniums, are a large, diverse group of mostly evergreen and tender plants used as bedding or houseplants. Although pelargoniums are often called geraniums, this is not correct, as the true geraniums are hardy herbaceous plants.
Pelargonium groups Most pelargonium cultivars are divided to six groups:-
Regal: Bushy evergreen perennials and shrubs with rounded leaves sometimes lobed or partially toothed, producing single rarely double flowers in shades of mauve, pink, purple or white grown for outdoor or indoor display
Angel: Similar to regals, but more compact and bushy. Mostly derived from P. crispum
Ivy-leaved: Trailing evergreen perennials with stiff fleshy leaves and single or double flowers used for hanging baskets or containers
Zonal: These are mainly derived from P. inquinans and P. zonale. Upright, bushy, succulent-stemmed perennials grown for their single or double flowers. Some have attractive foliage. This type is most commonly used for bedding displays
Scented-leaved: Shrubby evergreen perennials and shrubs, which are mainly cultivated for their scented and often distinctly lobed, toothed or incised or variegated leaves
Unique: Shrubby evergreen perennials that do not fall into the above categories
Pelargoniums can be grown in borders or containers. In borders or beds, plant in fertile, neutral to alkaline soil. Most prefer full sun. Regal cultivars prefer partial shade and zonal cultivars will tolerate some shade.
For indoor or outdoor container cultivation use well drained soil-less multipurpose compost or soil-based compost such as John Innes No 2.
If growing indoors or under glass grow in full light shaded from scorching midday sun.
Water moderately during the growing season from spring to summer, avoid the compost becoming too wet and provide good ventilation. Apply a balanced liquid fertiliser according to the application instructions on the packet, every 10-14 days in spring. Once flowers start to form, switch to a high potassium fertiliser such as tomato feed. Water only sparingly in winter. Many will continue flowering if kept at 7-10°C (45-50°F).
Many pelargoniums are naturally bushy. They can be pinched back in spring or early summer to encourage further branching. Tall, vigorously growing cultivars can be trained on canes to form a pillar. Young plants of trailing ivy-leaved cultivars are best pruned back to promote branching.
Deadhead plants regularly to promote flowering.
If kept actively growing all year round, the majority of pelargoniums can be renovated by hard pruning in spring. Those that are overwintered in containers in a greenhouse (method 2) have already been cut back in autumn and should not need further pruning.
Information from The Royal Horticultural Society.