View allAll Photos Tagged CPVC
An unusual Northwest cold snap caused the water in my home's fire suppression system to freeze, destroying much of the CPVC piping and flooding my bathroom. The flood occurred at 1:15 AM on Sunday, December 8th -- a wildly inconvenient time and nightmarish way to wake up, but luckily happening while I was home and could shut off the water. This photo depicts damage in the uninsulated void space next to the bedroom.
An unusual Northwest cold snap caused the water in my home's fire suppression system to freeze, destroying much of the CPVC piping and flooding my bathroom. The flood occurred at 1:15 AM on Sunday, December 8th -- a wildly inconvenient time and nightmarish way to wake up, but luckily happening while I was home and could shut off the water. This photo depicts damage in the uninsulated void space next to the bedroom.
An unusual Northwest cold snap caused the water in my home's fire suppression system to freeze, destroying much of the CPVC piping and flooding my bathroom. The flood occurred at 1:15 AM on Sunday, December 8th -- a wildly inconvenient time and nightmarish way to wake up, but luckily happening while I was home and could shut off the water. This photo depicts damage in the uninsulated void space next to the bedroom.
An unusual Northwest cold snap caused the water in my home's fire suppression system to freeze, destroying much of the CPVC piping and flooding my bathroom. The flood occurred at 1:15 AM on Sunday, December 8th -- a wildly inconvenient time and nightmarish way to wake up, but luckily happening while I was home and could shut off the water. This photo depicts damage in the uninsulated void space next to the bedroom.
An unusual Northwest cold snap caused the water in my home's fire suppression system to freeze, destroying much of the CPVC piping and flooding my bathroom. The flood occurred at 1:15 AM on Sunday, December 8th -- a wildly inconvenient time and nightmarish way to wake up, but luckily happening while I was home and could shut off the water. This photo depicts damage in the uninsulated void space next to the bedroom.
Front, left: Asahi Ball Valves Type 21 in CPVC and UPVC, Asahi PoolPro Butterfly Valve, Asahi Line Sediment Strainer with transparent body and UPVC screen, Asahi Labcock Valves, Asahi Butterfly Valve Type 57. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
The plastic sides of the round trash can are pretty thin. So, I decided to reinforced the edges where the can section will be attached to the cylinder sides. To do this, I softened 5-foot sections of PVC pipe with a heat gun and bent them around the cylinder sides*.
Astute viewers will notice that I've actually used CPVC pipes instead of PVC pipes. This is because I just happened to have CPVC lying around. While CPVC is stronger than PVC, I'd still recommend PVC. CPVC has a higher melting point, and is therefore much harder to work with.
*Anyone softening PVC (or in this case, CPVC) should be careful. Burning PVC releases hydrogen chloride and some other toxic gases, so it’s important to soften the plastic, and NOT burn it. This is why I choose to work in a well-ventilated area and use a heat source that can be easily controlled (Rob at cockeyed.com has made stuff out of PVC softened with heat sources like his kitchen stove and his charcoal grill, but I wouldn't recommend it). If you get cancer from inhaling toxic fumes, don't come crying to (or suing) me.
An unusual Northwest cold snap caused the water in my home's fire suppression system to freeze, destroying much of the CPVC piping and flooding my bathroom. The flood occurred at 1:15 AM on Sunday, December 8th -- a wildly inconvenient time and nightmarish way to wake up, but luckily happening while I was home and could shut off the water. This photo depicts damage in the uninsulated void space next to the bedroom.
An unusual Northwest cold snap caused the water in my home's fire suppression system to freeze, destroying much of the CPVC piping and flooding my bathroom. The flood occurred at 1:15 AM on Sunday, December 8th -- a wildly inconvenient time and nightmarish way to wake up, but luckily happening while I was home and could shut off the water. This photo depicts damage in the uninsulated void space next to the bedroom.
Made from two #2 conduit clamps, 1 1-inch CPVC coupler, 1 1-inch PVC Cap with hole drilled for drainage, and an old wing-headed bolt I had in the junk drawer. Threads made with self-drilling self-tapping screw and my drill. Note the tiny set screw for the cap.
Showcasing a range of ABS fittings and valves from Polypipe™ & CPVC / UPVC pipes and fitings from Charlotte. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
After tasting grand success with the Rangoli garden Aashiana, Mangalam Group is back with another realisticTownship,Aananda. Mangalam’sAananda is the second largest township after the Ashiana. Located in close vicinity of the city, Aananda Township will offer flats in Jaipur at reasonable prices. Just opposite to Sanganer Railway Station, you will find our sitemere 1.5 km from Galaxy Multiplex in Mansarovar, 3 kms from B2 bypass and about 5 kmsfrom the Airport. It is strategically situated amidst hospital, school, multiplex and other day-to-day life preferences.Owning Jaipur flatsnow in ManglamAanandawould result in good value for money in the coming years due to increased residential growth in its neighborhood.
Stretched over 42.5 acres of land area, Aananda will have 1700 flats and a retail market. The allotment of flats will be done in two phases; the first phase will have 700 flats and the remaining 1000 flats will be distributed in the next phase. Designed by the renowned architect of Delhi GPM Associate, the initial phase would cater 2/3 BHK residential flats/ duplexes. Manglam’sAananda is one of the largest residential projects of the state capital. A blend of comfort and optimum value for money, the apartments in Jaipur under Aananda project would assist people in finding their true sweet homes.To further ease things, we have already got the 90B approval for Aananda flats from the Jaipur Development Authority (JDA).
Getting into the finer details of the residential scheme; the size of flats would range from 1206 sq feet to 2578 sq feet. Apart from 2 BHK and 3 BHK options, you can choose to have a pent house as well.The materials in lobby, entrance foyer of ground floor and staircase flooring would include Udaipur Green Marble with combination of Jaisalmer/ Granite/ White Marble. Wall finish in the whole apartment would comprise of oil bound distemper except for the ones in kitchen and toilet where partial wall will be studded with ceramic tiles.The flooring in the flat would be of vitrified tiles with anti-skid ones fitted in areas of kitchen, toilet and balcony to avoid any mishap. Specifically bedrooms, including the master bedroom, would be laden with vitrified tiles wooden flooring to add a class to the overall set-up of the flat. Embracing these premium materials,it putsAananda project flats in the list of luxury apartments in Jaipur.
There are whole lots of many more things to entice you like the powder coated aluminum/ UPVC sliding windows with provision for fly proof Shutters/RCC/Wooden door frames in Lift lobby/ Corridors, Dining room lounge, Kitchen, Master Bedroom and other bedrooms and Toilet. This enables hassle free opening/ closing of windows.Kitchen comes fitted with Granite counter with Single Bowl Stainless Steel Sink & Wall Mounted CP Mixture. Toilet section gets you the conveyance of Hot & Cold Mixer, White Colored Wash Basin & English WC. CPVC inside the toilet and kitchen & UPVC pipes for stacks further strengthen the life of whole set-up in the long run.
Don't start here... start at image 1. Thunder box in place and working very well. Oh... anytime you install a toilet, ensure you replace the wax seal as well. All that's left now is to refinish the skylight opening, the sheet rock and paint; then the installation of the new cabinet, mirror and associated hardware.
Nylon string silent / frame guitar. Hand made. Sapele through neck finished in tung oil, ebony fretboard, detachable CPVC hoops with rubber foam covers. Under saddle piezo feeds a Kmise-Z5215 preamp and Max9812L/TDA1308 based headphone amp.
SYSTEM'O, système de tubes, accessoires, robinets et polymère de soudure (colle) en CPVC pour des installation de chauffage, sanitaire et climatisation réversibles. Indispensable dans la lutte contre les légionelles et la maladie du légionnaire que la légionella pneumophilia peut causer.
This is the stock Titan AS-V1, note the stupidly large pumping mechanism on the rear, the utterly useless sight on the top and the joke of a Scout integration clip on the side. If you want extra pain, you can also clip a Hornet to the bottom and use the front trigger to fire. You still have to fiddle with the hornet's front cocking mechanism to get it to work right though and you can't use the Hornet's Big Blast mode, you're stuck with single-fire mode.
All in all the stock titan is useless. But it has one redeeming feature, a bloody huge air reservoir that's designed to fire that giant missile you see on the front, so you can image what it can do with a tiny little 2 inch stefan dart.
My goal for this modification is to eliminate the integration points for the Scout and the Hornet, relocate the pumping mechanism to the area where the Hornet integration was previously, replace the stock barrel with a multi-mode screw-on barrel attachment, and remove any air restriction present in the stock gun.
I will also experiment with replacing the stock pump with a bicycle pump, but that would be a bonus rather than a primary goal.
I will also enhance the existing color scheme by repainting the minimized Titan.
Materials Needed:
1. Two 3/4" SCH40 PVC Female Adapters
2. 1 1/4" SCH40 PVC Slip Coupler (As many as you want shells)
3. One 3/4" x 1" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter
4. One 1 1/4" x 1" SCH40 PVC Bushing (At least one. If you get more, you can use them as shell holders on your Titan)
5. Two 3/4" x 1/2" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter (For PETG Rifle Attachment and CPVC Rifle Attachment)
6. One 1/2" CPVC Slip Coupler (For CPVC Rifle Attachment)
7. One 3/4" x 1/2" SCH40 PVC Male Adapter (For Stock Missile Attachment)
8. One length of 1/2" SCH40 PVC pipe, at least 24" per rifle barrel, as much as you like for the number of barrels you want.
9. One length of 1/2" CPVC pipe, at least 24" per rifle barrel, as much as you like for the number of barrels you want
10. One length of 1/2" Thick wall PETG, at least 24" per rifle barrel, match up with the length of PVC.
11. Enough PETG to make as many shells as you have 1 1/4" PVC slip couplers. I made 4 4-shot shells and 2 5-shot shells.
12. A few feet of 3/8" external diameter, 1/4" internal diameter flexible tubing, same kind you'd use for a fishtank, I got a roll of it at Lowes for a couple bucks.
You can make shells out of CPVC as well, but you can only get 4 barrels in a shell that way. Plus, my FBR doesn't fit in 1/2" CPVC so I stick with PETG for everything.
Showcasing a range of ABS fittings and valves from Polypipe™ & CPVC / UPVC pipes and fitings from Charlotte. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
Showcasing a range of ABS fittings and valves from Polypipe™ & CPVC / UPVC pipes and fitings from Charlotte. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
Here you can see how the deco tile pulls from the floor. In my photographic images, I was not able to capture the true color hues and saturation. The colors are subtler and (to me) look much better in reality.
So I buy this propane generator from Tractor Supply. Love the idea of the generator running on propane which will never go bad, not to mention, no carburetor to go bad with regards to varnish, dirt, or dried up O-rings.....
But to my dismay the Pull Start Rope exited the opposite side of the actual outlets. Basically one has to start the generator from the backside of the generator, if you consider the panel with the outlets the front.
This was not acceptable to me, because I mounted the generator permanently on a shelf in the garage, at a height it is easier to fill/check the oil.
Therefore had no way to pull start the generator as shipped from the factory because the rope was pointing towards the back wall of the garage.
Here's what I did:
1. Remove the three bolts holding the rope recoil starter assembly onto the motor. Rotate the recoil assembly so the rope now points towards the front access panel of the generator.
2. Pickup a grommet of your choice at the local hardware store, I had to use for now a threaded CPVC fitting and a nut, because the hardware store was out of the size NYLON grommet I wanted.
3. Drill a hole into the generator access panel, so the rope can exit to the front of the generator when pull starting.
4. Insert grommet, untie the rope from the T-Handle (be sure and hang onto that rope when the T-Handle is removed) and thread the rope through the newly installed grommet. Insert rope back into the T-Handle and tie a big knot in the rope so it stays in place in the T-Handle.
5. Celebrate/Pat yourself on the back for making the generator more usable, in a manner it should have been from the manufacturer to begin with in my opinion......
PS: Just for grins, I lubed up the rope itself real good with White Lithium Grease which should help lower friction, and keep the rope from drying out over the years,
Showcasing a range of ABS fittings and valves from Polypipe™ & CPVC / UPVC pipes and fitings from Charlotte. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
Showcasing a range of ABS fittings and valves from Polypipe™ & CPVC / UPVC pipes and fitings from Charlotte. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
Showcasing a range of ABS fittings and valves from Polypipe™ & CPVC / UPVC pipes and fitings from Charlotte. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
Showcasing a range of ABS fittings and valves from Polypipe™ & CPVC / UPVC pipes and fitings from Charlotte. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
Front, left: Asahi Ball Valves Type 21 in CPVC and UPVC, Asahi PoolPro Butterfly Valve, Asahi Line Sediment Strainer with transparent body and UPVC screen, Asahi Labcock Valves, Asahi Butterfly Valve Type 57. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
Right of Centre: Asahi's Type 21 Ball Valves in UPVC, PP, PVDF and CPVC with and without lockable handles and pressure relief. Left of Centre: Asahi's Actuated, check and 3-way ball valves. Find out more about Fusion here: www.fusionaus.com
After all the fun of painting the dye onto the yarn (love those colors!), I scooted the yarn back down and pulled off the tall CPVC stuff to make things short enough to fit inside the microwave.
I put it inside an extra large Ziplock bag and left the bag open. The microwave turntable was removed. Then I put the whole thing inside the microwave. It only took 2 minutes on high, a rest for 3 minutes, 2 more minutes on high, a 3 minute rest, and a final 2 minutes. I left it in for about 5 minutes more to finish. The drips of dye in the bottom of the bag were colorless, so I quit.
I put the long pieces of pipe back in place to make a rack and rinsed the yarn and added a few squirts of creme rinse.
Now the yarn is drying on it. When it gets dry, I'll be ready to unwind it and knit me some socks!
To be continued.
A quick video while my sparge was in progress. This was a massive imperial stout that had a total of 46 lbs of grain in the gran bill for a 10 gallon batch. As you can see this is about the limit of what I can reasonable mash. The beer had an OG of 1.101. This was the first time brewing with my all-grain set up. I built the stand, used an old 80 qt (20 gallon) cooler w/ perforated CPVC manifolded false bottom and two Kick-banjo burner Plus burners. Full gravity set up.
Grout installed. It will lighten considerably when it dries. It is the same color and shade as the grout used in the shower. The tile guy said it would "bring them together." I believe it's true.
Friday paddock atmosphere at the 2023 Algarve Classic Festival: Sousa Coutinho's BMW 2800 CS from the local CPVC series.
Find more pictures and a comprehensive report at 8W.
I decided to dye one 459 yard skein in six colors to knit a pair of Jaywalker socks. I knitted a few rows to see how long each stripe will be. Then I wrapped some yarn around the posts to see what that distance is. ( It didn't come out right when I wound all the yarn because I'm new at this. There's a space between the wraps that didn't get included in the calculations and when the yarn gets wrapped, there's another length to travel to the next color. I don't care much that the socks won't be perfect. We're just having fun here. I can see all kinds of possible ways to wrap yarn on this, some long wraps, some short.
I don't think it matters much which direction the yarn is wrapped. It will be unwrapped sort of like what happens when you unravel your knitting.
I fastened an extra pipe to each outside wrap area with a plastic tie, so the yarn will be loose after this temporary pipe is removed. ( Next time I will add a second pipe to the other side.)
I marked the pipes (see one red dot, two dots) to keep track of the wrapping. I counted the wraps for the first color, marked it down on paper; wrapped the second section, marked it down etc. Otherwise, I tend to lose my place.
Next I removed those extra pipes and added some extension pipes to spread the yarn apart so water could soak into all of the yarn on the CPVC board. But, because the yarn was still a bit snug, I had one small place between the pipe and wrapped yarn that apparently was still dry. ( It's critical that the yarn is wet when it goes into the microwave.) I have a brown toasty hunk of fried yarn in that dry place.
So I buy this propane generator from Tractor Supply. Love the idea of the generator running on propane which will never go bad, not to mention, no carburetor to go bad with regards to varnish, dirt, or dried up O-rings.....
But to my dismay the Pull Start Rope exited the opposite side of the actual outlets. Basically one has to start the generator from the backside of the generator, if you consider the panel with the outlets the front.
This was not acceptable to me, because I mounted the generator permanently on a shelf in the garage, at a height it is easier to fill/check the oil.
Therefore had no way to pull start the generator as shipped from the factory because the rope was pointing towards the back wall of the garage.
Here's what I did:
1. Remove the three bolts holding the rope recoil starter assembly onto the motor. Rotate the recoil assembly so the rope now points towards the front access panel of the generator.
2. Pickup a grommet of your choice at the local hardware store, I had to use for now a threaded CPVC fitting and a nut, because the hardware store was out of the size NYLON grommet I wanted.
3. Drill a hole into the generator access panel, so the rope can exit to the front of the generator when pull starting.
4. Insert grommet, untie the rope from the T-Handle (be sure and hang onto that rope when the T-Handle is removed) and thread the rope through the newly installed grommet. Insert rope back into the T-Handle and tie a big knot in the rope so it stays in place in the T-Handle.
5. Celebrate/Pat yourself on the back for making the generator more usable, in a manner it should have been from the manufacturer to begin with in my opinion......
PS: Just for grins, I lubed up the rope itself real good with White Lithium Grease which should help lower friction, and keep the rope from drying out over the years,
My camera with the new Sigma 50mm 1.4 Prime lens. Took this one in the new light tent. I built one using CPVC from an internet site and its a lot of fun. I spent the night running around the house looking for things to take pictures of.
Pretty good fit for using a recip saw... Notice that directly below the vertical stud, is a chip of the old cultured marble. You'll notice that this was not constructed for use with tile. The rough concrete protrudes beyond the floor stud, making it impossible to attach backer board flush with the wood, and down to the floor level. If this isn't clear, it will be illustrated later on.
As placas coletoras ALO SOLAR são fabricadas em resinas termoplásticas de alta qualidade, aditivadas contra a ação de raios ultravioleta, resistentes a choques, ações da natureza (geadas, granizo, congelamento), de fácil instalação e manutenção.
Devido à facilidade de montagem, permitem expansão do sistema de aquecimento, pela simples adição de novas placas.
As placas são interligadas através de mangotes de borracha especiais e abraçadeiras de inox (produto vendido separadamente).
O sistema de aquecimento ALO SOLAR para piscinas é constituído de uma bateria de placas coletoras, as quais são interligadas a uma bomba. A maioria das bombas utilizadas para filtragem e recirculação da água da piscina possui potência suficiente para permitir a circulação de água através do sistema, que normalmente fica sobre um telhado próximo. Quando isso não ocorrer, é necessário o uso de uma bomba auxiliar.
Pode ser adaptado em qualquer piscina: em projeto ou já construídas, aquecendo grandes quantidades de água com alta velocidade de circulação.
Imune à ação de cloro e algicidas.
A montagem é bastante simples e a manutenção é mínima. Possibilita a expansão do sistema, uma vez que novas placas podem ser adicionadas a qualquer momento.
Além dessas vantagens, o sistema ALO SOLAR de aquecimento de piscinas permite instalações de água quente com encanamentos de PVC.
Veja abaixo como é composto um sistema de aquecimento de piscinas ALO SOLAR
Detalhe da instalação na casa de máquinas, com utlização de bomba auxiliar e automatização:
1. Piscina
2. Moto Bomba
3. Filtro
4. Linha de subida de água fria para as placas
5. Válvula de retenção
6. Registro de drenagem da bateria
7. Placas Coletoras
8. Linha de descida de água quente
9. Retorno da piscina
10. Bomba auxiliar
11. Termostato diferencial
12. Sensor do termostato
13. Tubo calibrador
14. Registro regulador de vazão de descida
15 - Registro regulador de vazão da bateria
Detalhe da instalação na casa de máquinas, sem utlização de bomba auxiliar:
1 - Piscina
2 - Moto Bomba
3 - Filtro
4 - Linha de subida de água fria para as placas
5 - Válvula de retenção
6 - Registro de drenagem da bateria
7 - Placas Coletoras
8 - Linha de descida de água quente
9 - Retorno da piscina
10 - Registro “by-pass”
11 -Dispositivo anti-vácuo
12 - Registro regulador de vazão de descida
13 - Registro regulador de vazão da bateria
O dimensionamento é efetuado considerando a proporção entre área da piscina e o nr. de coletores.
Para cada 10% do número de coletores em relação à área da piscina, asseguramos acréscimo de 1°C acima da temperatura da piscina (sem aquecimento), desde que todas as outras condições ideais de instalação estejam presentes:
•orientação face norte
•inclinação dos coletores (latitude mais 10°)
•uso da capa térmica
Devemos ainda considerar:
•incidência de ventos;
•altitude do local e calor ambiente;
•número de dias ensolarados;
•quantia de horas de circulação diária da água nas placas no período de maior incidência solar (entre 10h e 15h)
A Organização Mundial da Saúde recomenda:
•Piscinas aquecidas para práticas esportivas: 26°C
•Piscinas para lazer: 28°C
•Piscinas para lazer com crianças abaixo de um ano: 30°C
•Piscinas para fisioterapia: 32°C
O cálculo para dimensionamento do sistema vai depender, também, de seu objetivo de aquecimento.
Observando o gráfico abaixo, temos o comportamento de uma mesma piscina em duas situações diferentes:
Curva 1: número de placas = 100% da área da piscina
Curva 2: número de placas = 70% da área da piscina
Com maior quantidade de placas, a temperatura da piscina aumenta e estabiliza-se mais rapidamente.
A variação diária de ganho e perda térmica é influenciada pela menor temperatura ambiente durante a noite, quando a água perde calor para a atmosfera.
É muito importante que a piscina seja coberta durante a noite para evitar que a água perca o calor acumulado durante o dia.
Para tal fim, recomendamos a utilização do sistema Alo Cover para cobertura da piscina, composto de capa térmica, cujo lado em contato com a piscina é bolhado, formando um colchão de ar e isolando termicamente a piscina durante o período em que a mesma não estiver em uso. O lado em contato com o ar é provido de camada anti raios ultravioleta, permitindo sua maior durabilidade e enrolador para capa térmica, que é um dispositivo opcional que facilita o manuseio da capa durante o processo de colocação e recolhimento da mesma, garantindo sua durabilidade.
A capa é comercializada sob medida e soldada de acordo com o formato da piscina. Para maiores detalhes sobre o cálculo da capa térmica para cada piscina, clique aqui
Os coletores deverão ser instalados e direcionados preferencialmente para a posição mais próxima do norte.
Cada placa é fornecida com tirantes de inox para fixá-la no telhado, evitando que ventos mais fortes a desloque.
As placas devem ser conectadas umas às outras através de mangotes de borracha com abraçdeiras de inox 32mm (1") (devem ser adquiridos junto com as placas).
Utilize tubos e conexões em PVC soldados ou rosqueados. Não utilizar CPVC (Aquatherm) que tem sua resistência afetada pelo cloro. Use curvas longas ao invés de cotovelos para melhor eficiência do sistema.
Os Coletores Alo Solar não devem ser instalados abaixo da linha d'água da piscina, sob pena de perda da garantia.