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WanHao LCD (connector at a better angle)
FlashForge button & SD card module (better job of assembling the pard with the buttons perpendicular to the board)
Ribbon connector is also from WanHao.
Carl Raffle heater blocks and thermal barrier tubes, available from
shop.raffle.ch
You really, really want thermal barrier tubes with the stepped down inside diameter. As far as I can tell, only Makerbot and Carl Raffle are correctly making these. The ones from other suppliers, including those from QU-BD are not correctly manufactured. (Avoid purchasing from QU-BD if you can help it. All too often they ship the wrong parts and will then never, ever answer calls or e-mail attempting to fix the problem.)
The 0.4 mm nozzles are from Performance 3-d,
The two thin M6 hex nuts (which Carl provides) are used as jam nuts to fix the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar: one below the bar and one above. If you have some heatsink grease, use a small amount of it on the nuts. Apply a very thin layer of it to the nut faces which face the heat spreader bar as well as to their threads. That will further help transfer heat from the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar.
WanHao LCD (connector at a better angle)
FlashForge button & SD card module (better job of assembling the pard with the buttons perpendicular to the board)
Two spacers are placed on the upper fastening bolts of the LCD display. This causes the display to tip backwards slightly making viewing while standing in front of the display easier.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
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Changed the design on the side panels as well to match the Replicator 2 style.
Custom Replicator case increases build height by 100mm.
Fused power inlet. This particular inlet is a Corcom PE0SSSSX0 (Digikey CCM1384-ND) which is rated 10A @ 120VAC, fused, and filtered. It's overkill for this application but I happen to have a few of them and it's convenient to use the same unit everywhere.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬
Michael Kluger, Haverstraw Center Support Administrator of the 3D Printer holding a 3D plastic model of a ship.
Top view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. The M6 bolt should not project past the hex nut; otherwise, it may interfere with the face of the extruder stepper motor. Also, try to get the hex nut parallel with the long edge of the heat spreader bar. This also helps prevent any interference with the face of the stepper motor.
Bottom view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. You may prefer to use a socket cap head bolt: this philips head may well interfere with the heater block. Will depend upon the style of heater block you choose to use.
The X endstop switch (green & black wires, right edge of carriage) has only the common (C) and normally open (NO) contacts wired. These two wires will be routed back to a Makerbot v1.2 endstop PCB which has had its switch removed. REMOVE the switch from the PCB to prevent shorting the 5V and ground rails. Note that the normally closed (NC) contact is not wired. On the endstop PCB it is only used with the LED indicator circuit; it is not essential to the endstop's operation.
Note also that the endstop switch is here affixed with a wire tie. It is also possible to use two 2-56 bolts. The head of at least one bolt -- the one closest to the linear bearing -- must be on the underside of the carriage; otherwise, the bolt will interfere with the bearing.