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RepRap Mk2b dual voltage heater circuit board wired for +24V operation with a 10k ohm resistor and a red LED.
14 wires total:
4 x stepper motor
2 x thermocouple
2 x heater core
2 x heatsink fan
2 x endstop switch (Common & NO contacts)
2 x print cooling fan
Short XY Plate cut from 3mm thick aluminum plate. Short XY plate is based upon the DXF cut file,
xstageshort.dxf
found as a download of Thingiverse Thing 252041,
www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
Use the short XY plate if you have a short NEMA17 stepper motor such as those MBI uses for their extruders. If you have a stepper motor with a bigger stack, then you may need to use xstagequ_bd.dxf.
The aluminum heat spreader bars are the proper 0.5 inch thick ones MBI uses on the Replicator 1 and 2 series. They provide far more contact area with the thermal barrier tube than the Mk7 style heat spreader bar. Unfortunately, a number of the Mk-style extruder kits provide the Mk7's thinner heat spreader bar (e.g., QU-BD's MBE v9). If you plan on extruding PLA, you want the thicker bar! Otherwise, you will likely experience jams on long duration prints.
Robotdigg.com and dealextreme sell the thicker bars BUT only one of the holes is tapped for M6 threads. Use that hole for the thermal barrier tube. The other hole is smooth bored and will accept a M6 bolt. Cut a M6 bolt to a length of 19 mm. (I do it by threading 4 M6 hex nuts on, cutting flush to the fourth nut, filing the cut end, then removing the nuts. (Having the nuts on helps you clean the cut threads after cutting.)
A hand cut slot has been made in the XY plate with which to affix the heat spreader bar using the cut M6 bolt and a thin M6 hex nut.
WanHao LCD (connector at a better angle)
FlashForge button & SD card module (better job of assembling the pard with the buttons perpendicular to the board)
Ribbon connector is also from WanHao.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
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Carl Raffle heater blocks and thermal barrier tubes, available from
shop.raffle.ch
You really, really want thermal barrier tubes with the stepped down inside diameter. As far as I can tell, only Makerbot and Carl Raffle are correctly making these. The ones from other suppliers, including those from QU-BD are not correctly manufactured. (Avoid purchasing from QU-BD if you can help it. All too often they ship the wrong parts and will then never, ever answer calls or e-mail attempting to fix the problem.)
The 0.4 mm nozzles are from Performance 3-d,
The two thin M6 hex nuts (which Carl provides) are used as jam nuts to fix the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar: one below the bar and one above. If you have some heatsink grease, use a small amount of it on the nuts. Apply a very thin layer of it to the nut faces which face the heat spreader bar as well as to their threads. That will further help transfer heat from the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬
WanHao LCD (connector at a better angle)
FlashForge button & SD card module (better job of assembling the pard with the buttons perpendicular to the board)
Two spacers are placed on the upper fastening bolts of the LCD display. This causes the display to tip backwards slightly making viewing while standing in front of the display easier.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬