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WanHao LCD (connector at a better angle)
FlashForge button & SD card module (better job of assembling the pard with the buttons perpendicular to the board)
Two spacers are placed on the upper fastening bolts of the LCD display. This causes the display to tip backwards slightly making viewing while standing in front of the display easier.
Changed the design on the side panels as well to match the Replicator 2 style.
Custom Replicator case increases build height by 100mm.
Fused power inlet. This particular inlet is a Corcom PE0SSSSX0 (Digikey CCM1384-ND) which is rated 10A @ 120VAC, fused, and filtered. It's overkill for this application but I happen to have a few of them and it's convenient to use the same unit everywhere.
Top view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. The M6 bolt should not project past the hex nut; otherwise, it may interfere with the face of the extruder stepper motor. Also, try to get the hex nut parallel with the long edge of the heat spreader bar. This also helps prevent any interference with the face of the stepper motor.
The electronics bay with 14.6A 24VDC Meanwell PSU available from WanHao USA, Mouser, and other suppliers.
FlashForge Mightyboard rev E clone board with C20 and Extra FET added. FlashForge peripheral terminals replaced with Phoenix screw down terminals. The stepper driver cards are modified Pololu A4988 Black boards. Modified to work with the Mightyboard replacing the standard Botstep cards. Also, the Pololu boards have been adjusted to support the higher current needs of the X, Y and Z stepper motors.
The wiring for the stepper motors is not yet connected.
Michael Kluger, Haverstraw Center Support Administrator of the 3D Printer holding a 3D plastic model of a ship.
Bottom view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. You may prefer to use a socket cap head bolt: this philips head may well interfere with the heater block. Will depend upon the style of heater block you choose to use.
The X endstop switch (green & black wires, right edge of carriage) has only the common (C) and normally open (NO) contacts wired. These two wires will be routed back to a Makerbot v1.2 endstop PCB which has had its switch removed. REMOVE the switch from the PCB to prevent shorting the 5V and ground rails. Note that the normally closed (NC) contact is not wired. On the endstop PCB it is only used with the LED indicator circuit; it is not essential to the endstop's operation.
Note also that the endstop switch is here affixed with a wire tie. It is also possible to use two 2-56 bolts. The head of at least one bolt -- the one closest to the linear bearing -- must be on the underside of the carriage; otherwise, the bolt will interfere with the bearing.