View allAll Photos Tagged 3dprinter
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬
X and Y stepper motors are Kysan 1124090. Available from Ultimachine. Like the Z stepper motor, these motors require more current than the standard Makerbot X and Y stepper motors. You will need to use modified stepper drivers.
SVENSKA:
Den personliga fabbster 3D-skrivare från Sintermask. Kompatibel med både LIKE Sticks kuggstänger och standard 3.0 mm rund plastfilament för 3D-printing.
Läs mer på: fabbster.creativetools.se
ENGLISH:
The personal 3D printer fabbster from Sintermask. Compatible with both LIKE Sticks and standard 3.0 mm round plastic filament for 3D printing.
Let's see:
- Minimalistic MK8 Extruder (Dual): www.thingiverse.com/thing:28241
- Beefed Up Replicator Extruder Bracket: www.thingiverse.com/thing:33589
- (Unofficial) Replicator XL Case: www.thingiverse.com/thing:33265
- Replicator HBP Support Upgrade: www.thingiverse.com/thing:35059
- RepXL Panels and Doors: www.thingiverse.com/thing:33269
- Replicator 3mm Hood and Cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:23386
Probably some other things I've forgotten.
Z motor, lead screw, and acme nut from Kysan. Part number is 1040094. Requires more current than the normal Makerbot Z stepper motor. You should use a modified stepper driver.
Thermistor circuit with CD-ROM audio connector wiring (MPC-2 connector).
For $5.60 US you can order three of these boards from OSH Park. That includes free shipping within the USA. Note that OSH Park always sells in units of three. The URL is
oshpark.com/shared_projects/HTTIQlfd
The sole required component (beyond the 100K NTC thermistor itself) is one 4.7K resistor which you can likely buy at a Radio Shack (Digikey S4.7KCACT-ND). The optional components are a 0.1 uF capacitor (Digikey 339-4151-ND), a MPC-2 connector (CD-ROM audio; Molex 0705550038; Digikey WM4177-ND), and a two position screw down terminal (Phoenix 1729128; Digikey 277-1247-ND).
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
14 wires total:
4 x stepper motor
2 x thermocouple
2 x heater core
2 x heatsink fan
2 x endstop switch (Common & NO contacts)
2 x print cooling fan
The X endstop switch (green & black wires, right edge of carriage) has only the common (C) and normally open (NO) contacts wired. These two wires will be routed back to a Makerbot v1.2 endstop PCB which has had its switch removed. REMOVE the switch from the PCB to prevent shorting the 5V and ground rails. Note that the normally closed (NC) contact is not wired. On the endstop PCB it is only used with the LED indicator circuit; it is not essential to the endstop's operation.
Note also that the endstop switch is here affixed with a wire tie. It is also possible to use two 2-56 bolts. The head of at least one bolt -- the one closest to the linear bearing -- must be on the underside of the carriage; otherwise, the bolt will interfere with the bearing.
This particular roller switch was purchased via Amazon, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052RTOTY/ref=oh_details_o07_s...
RepRap Mk2b dual voltage heater circuit board wired for +24V operation with a 10k ohm resistor and a red LED.
The electronics bay with 14.6A 24VDC Meanwell PSU available from WanHao USA, Mouser, and other suppliers.
FlashForge Mightyboard rev E clone board with C20 and Extra FET added. FlashForge peripheral terminals replaced with Phoenix screw down terminals. The stepper driver cards are modified Pololu A4988 Black boards. Modified to work with the Mightyboard replacing the standard Botstep cards. Also, the Pololu boards have been adjusted to support the higher current needs of the X, Y and Z stepper motors.
The wiring for the stepper motors is not yet connected.
RepRap Mk2b dual voltage heater circuit board wired for +24V operation with a 10k ohm resistor and a red LED.
Short XY Plate cut from 3mm thick aluminum plate. Short XY plate is based upon the DXF cut file,
xstageshort.dxf
found as a download of Thingiverse Thing 252041,
www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
Use the short XY plate if you have a short NEMA17 stepper motor such as those MBI uses for their extruders. If you have a stepper motor with a bigger stack, then you may need to use xstagequ_bd.dxf.
The aluminum heat spreader bars are the proper 0.5 inch thick ones MBI uses on the Replicator 1 and 2 series. They provide far more contact area with the thermal barrier tube than the Mk7 style heat spreader bar. Unfortunately, a number of the Mk-style extruder kits provide the Mk7's thinner heat spreader bar (e.g., QU-BD's MBE v9). If you plan on extruding PLA, you want the thicker bar! Otherwise, you will likely experience jams on long duration prints.
Robotdigg.com and dealextreme sell the thicker bars BUT only one of the holes is tapped for M6 threads. Use that hole for the thermal barrier tube. The other hole is smooth bored and will accept a M6 bolt. Cut a M6 bolt to a length of 19 mm. (I do it by threading 4 M6 hex nuts on, cutting flush to the fourth nut, filing the cut end, then removing the nuts. (Having the nuts on helps you clean the cut threads after cutting.)
A hand cut slot has been made in the XY plate with which to affix the heat spreader bar using the cut M6 bolt and a thin M6 hex nut.
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041