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Thermistor circuit with CD-ROM audio connector wiring (MPC-2 connector).
For $5.60 US you can order three of these boards from OSH Park. That includes free shipping within the USA. Note that OSH Park always sells in units of three. The URL is
oshpark.com/shared_projects/HTTIQlfd
The sole required component (beyond the 100K NTC thermistor itself) is one 4.7K resistor which you can likely buy at a Radio Shack (Digikey S4.7KCACT-ND). The optional components are a 0.1 uF capacitor (Digikey 339-4151-ND), a MPC-2 connector (CD-ROM audio; Molex 0705550038; Digikey WM4177-ND), and a two position screw down terminal (Phoenix 1729128; Digikey 277-1247-ND).
Photo used by pepen28k.weebly.com/extras.html.
Photo used by www.ryanlionlibrary.com/makerspace.html.
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
Seen at the maker faire today...there were a lot of people displaying and explaining how they worked. Very cool.
RepRap Mk2b dual voltage heater circuit board wired for +24V operation with a 10k ohm resistor and a red LED.
My new Kossel is up and running! Finished it last night, cleaned up the wiring this morning. Prints great!
RepRap Mk2b dual voltage heater circuit board, reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed
For Replicator 1 firmware, the thermistor should have a beta(25/85) of about 4066K. For Replicator 2 and 2X firmware, a beta(25/85) of about 3974K. However, it's not critical: the deviations will likely be a fraction of a degree around 100C.
In this build, a thermistor from RioRand is used with a beta(25/50) of about 3950 is used. Available at Amazon as www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GD471PO/ref=oh_details_o03_s...
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
Motor and idler brackets from www.thingiverse.com/thing:364426 .
Note removal of the upper corner brackets to make room for the idler brackets. Upper corner brackets may be retained if using the idler bracket from www.thingiverse.com/thing:252041
14 wires total:
4 x stepper motor
2 x thermocouple
2 x heater core
2 x heatsink fan
2 x endstop switch (Common & NO contacts)
2 x print cooling fan
The X endstop switch (green & black wires, right edge of carriage) has only the common (C) and normally open (NO) contacts wired. These two wires will be routed back to a Makerbot v1.2 endstop PCB which has had its switch removed. REMOVE the switch from the PCB to prevent shorting the 5V and ground rails. Note that the normally closed (NC) contact is not wired. On the endstop PCB it is only used with the LED indicator circuit; it is not essential to the endstop's operation.
Note also that the endstop switch is here affixed with a wire tie. It is also possible to use two 2-56 bolts. The head of at least one bolt -- the one closest to the linear bearing -- must be on the underside of the carriage; otherwise, the bolt will interfere with the bearing.
This particular roller switch was purchased via Amazon, www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0052RTOTY/ref=oh_details_o07_s...
Top view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. The M6 bolt should not project past the hex nut; otherwise, it may interfere with the face of the extruder stepper motor. Also, try to get the hex nut parallel with the long edge of the heat spreader bar. This also helps prevent any interference with the face of the stepper motor.