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Over the past thirty years my camera bag has evolved. Back in the eighties when I was shooting film, I carried two bodies, several lenses, and a plethora of accessories in a large rectagular diaper bag with giraffes printed on it and a tripod strapped on top. Then I had a fanny pack full of film.
Since I hit the digital age, my walkabout equipment has continued to evolve. I am used to heavy duty equipment. I'm hard on the stuff. A lot of the time I just sling my Nikon D2X with it's 28-70mm f/2.8 lens over my shoulder, stuff a spare battery and CF card in my pocket and go. The problem is, it's a heavy beast. Durable, but heavy. I used to carry it or a Nikon D200 with a 50mm lens and MB200 around all day in a Lowepro Toploader AW bag, but they're heavy. I really like the way they handle, and the fact you can make adjustments with buttons and an aperture ring, but they're heavy. Did I mention they're heavy?
Shooting strangers is a bit different than other aspects of photography. Sometimes you happen upon a stranger, other times you may spend five or six hours pounding the pavement. I usually have a Nikon S52 point & shoot in my pocket, but if I go out at a carnival or fair hunting strangers, here is what I carry. The Nikon D5000 may not have the same durability and ease of use as the D2X, but it is lighter. It also uses a very small remote and the flip LCD is handy at times. I hate the navigating the menu to make it do what I want, and I'm just now getting used to adjusting the aperture with the thumb wheel. When Nikon finally came out with a 50mm AF-S lens for it, I was sold.
The 50mm is my favorite lens, it has been for years. I first started shooting with one on a Nikon F and continued on with each new camera. The real advantage of the 50mm is the large aperture that allows you to use natural light in most settings. I zoom with my feet. The 18-70mm lens is carried primarily for the wide angle. I can usually get closer, but getting farther back can sometimes be difficult. The collapsible reflector allows me to control natural light.
Some items go in pockets, other items go in the bag. I carry business cards and the iPod Touch because I approach complete strangers and request a photograph of them. These items help me explain why I do it, and allows them to get in contact with me later. I have gained several talented and willing models in this manner, plus it is great advertising.
This is the violacea colour form of the Blue-tailed Damselfly (Ischnura elegans), as I understand this is an immature colour form found only in females. There are a few colour forms with this species, as well as the immature female violacea colour form which has a violet colour on the thorax, you can also find the immature female rufescens form which has a reddish/pink colour on the thorax.
As the rufescens form matures it develops a yellowish/brownish colour on the thorax and is known as rufescens-obsoleta. The violacea form can either become similar in colour to the adult male which is known as typica or it can develop into the infuscans form which has a brownish thorax and a brown segment 8, which is blue in most other mature forms. I think that makes sense, but I still find it confusing at times. Anyway, the violacea form has to be my favourite, I will attempt to add a few more in the comments :o)
This one was taken with my Tamron 180mm on 36mm of extension tubes, I also used a tripod for this as this one was fairly high up on these reeds :o)
Oh and really chuffed with my latest charity shop purchase, a Lowepro toploader pro 75aw, which was as new and cost me £7. They retail for £79 on the WEX website :o)
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I knew that the weather was going to be great this morning, but with me not being in either Snowdonia or Cumbria I hadn't planned on getting up to summit anywhere in time for dawn. I didn't sleep too well, but that wasn't a bad thing, as upon waking at 0545 this morning I noticed an orange and pink haze rising above the horizon. Good job I hadn't drawn the curtains before going to bed!
I knew I had to head out and take advantage of the clear skies. The only location I could think of traveling to within the short time I had was New Brighton. I hadn't been there since going crabbing as a young child so I had no idea what to expect.
One thing I did know, was that it was low tide, so I knew I'd get something.
Here are the results.
I was quite surprised at how quickly the tide rose, however it made for some great reflections.
One thing that I love about making sunrise in the spring and summer is that I can get out an take in some amazing scenery and be back at the office replying to my clients emails and writing training programmes by 0800.
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All pictures available as prints (framed or unframed)
Message me on this page for a quotation
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Nikon D7200
Nikon 17-35mm f/2.8
Lee 0.6 Medium ND Grad
Lee 0.9 Hard edge ND Grad
Lee Filter Holder
Lee Landscape Polariser
Lee adapter ring
Manfrotto MT055 CX Pro Carbon Fiber tripod
Manfrotto MH X Pro Ball Head
Lowepro filter pouch
Lowepro toploader zoom 50 camera bag
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Chassis n° CSX3120
Well-built in 2016 by Burgol - Switzerland
Bonhams
Les Grandes Marques du Monde à Paris
The Grand Palais Éphémère
Place Joffre
Parijs - Paris
Frankrijk - France
February 2023
Estimated : € 400.000 - 600.000
Sold for € 264.500
For the 1965 Shelby Cobra 427 Mk III, powered by the huge and powerful Ford 7.0-litre (427ci) Side Oiler' engine, a new chassis and body were designed and developed in cooperation with Ford in Detroit. The new chassis was built using 4・ (101.6mm) main chassis tubes (up from 3・) and coil spring suspension all around; the latter was an especially significant change up front, where the previously used transverse leaf spring had also served as the top link. The new car also had wider wings and a larger radiator intake. Two prototypes were sent from the UK to the USA in October 1964, and Cobra Mark III production began on 1st January 1965.
The Cobra on sale here is a tool-room copy of the 1965 Shelby PR car (chassis 'CSX3120'), an example known to have been destroyed in period. This Cobra was built in 2016 to full FIA specification by the leading historic race team Burgol in Geneva, Switzerland, on a correct new Kirkham chassis using an original chassis number 'CSX3120' (paperwork was obtained for this chassis number) and an aluminium body also supplied by Kirkham.
Faultlessly prepared by Burgol, the car was entered in the 2017 Peter Auto '60s Endurance series achieving a 2nd place at Le Castellet and a 3rd place at Dijon. The fastest lap time at Spa-Francorchamps was 2' 49" and the fastest lap time at Le Castellet was 2' 28". From 2018 to 2020 the car was entered in the Peter Auto CER1 series at Le Castellet, Spa-Francorchamps, and Monza.
The current engine, a 427ci (7.0-litre) V8 delivering 480bhp, was built by Burgol/Lorrtec Race Engines, and we are advised that it has done only two races: at Monza and Le Castellet. A Cobra FIA replica built to the highest standard, the car has proven to be a very reliable package and is ready to race. Specification highlights include the following:
Kirkham Aluminium body and steel chassis
Independent wishbone suspension front and rear
Koni telescopic dampers
Girling brake callipers
Front discs 290.5mm; rear discs 273mm
Wheels: front 15" x 7.5" rear 15" x 9.5"
FIA approved roll cage
160-litre foam-filled Fuel Safe Systems fuel tank to FIA FT3-1999 specification
Minimum weight 975kg
Original Ford FE 427 C5AE-D 'Side Oiler' engine delivering 480bhp built by Lorrtec Race Engines
12.1:1 compression, all steel internals, JE/Mahle
Alloy cylinder heads C5AE-6090F
Dry sump lubrication
Holley four-barrel Carburettor
Ford four-speed Toploader gearbox with oil cooler
Auburn13/45 limited-slip differential - disc-type with oil cooler
For more details see HTP
Immensely competitive, and ready to use at any challenging event, this Cobra comes with the all-important FIA HTP papers (valid until 2029) and the even more important Belgian road-registration (1965 Shelby Cobra CSX 3120). A hardtop and left/right-hand bolt-on silencers (for legal road use) are included in the sale.
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when that moon is big and bright. - toploader
when night falls, people actually get dressed. there are fires on the beach, candles on the rocks and in the water, drinks, bongos and guitars, dancing and singing.
Chassis n° CSX3120
Well-built in 2016 by Burgol - Switzerland
Bonhams
Les Grandes Marques du Monde à Paris
The Grand Palais Éphémère
Place Joffre
Parijs - Paris
Frankrijk - France
February 2023
Estimated : € 400.000 - 600.000
Sold for € 264.500
For the 1965 Shelby Cobra 427 Mk III, powered by the huge and powerful Ford 7.0-litre (427ci) Side Oiler' engine, a new chassis and body were designed and developed in cooperation with Ford in Detroit. The new chassis was built using 4・ (101.6mm) main chassis tubes (up from 3・) and coil spring suspension all around; the latter was an especially significant change up front, where the previously used transverse leaf spring had also served as the top link. The new car also had wider wings and a larger radiator intake. Two prototypes were sent from the UK to the USA in October 1964, and Cobra Mark III production began on 1st January 1965.
The Cobra on sale here is a tool-room copy of the 1965 Shelby PR car (chassis 'CSX3120'), an example known to have been destroyed in period. This Cobra was built in 2016 to full FIA specification by the leading historic race team Burgol in Geneva, Switzerland, on a correct new Kirkham chassis using an original chassis number 'CSX3120' (paperwork was obtained for this chassis number) and an aluminium body also supplied by Kirkham.
Faultlessly prepared by Burgol, the car was entered in the 2017 Peter Auto '60s Endurance series achieving a 2nd place at Le Castellet and a 3rd place at Dijon. The fastest lap time at Spa-Francorchamps was 2' 49" and the fastest lap time at Le Castellet was 2' 28". From 2018 to 2020 the car was entered in the Peter Auto CER1 series at Le Castellet, Spa-Francorchamps, and Monza.
The current engine, a 427ci (7.0-litre) V8 delivering 480bhp, was built by Burgol/Lorrtec Race Engines, and we are advised that it has done only two races: at Monza and Le Castellet. A Cobra FIA replica built to the highest standard, the car has proven to be a very reliable package and is ready to race. Specification highlights include the following:
Kirkham Aluminium body and steel chassis
Independent wishbone suspension front and rear
Koni telescopic dampers
Girling brake callipers
Front discs 290.5mm; rear discs 273mm
Wheels: front 15" x 7.5" rear 15" x 9.5"
FIA approved roll cage
160-litre foam-filled Fuel Safe Systems fuel tank to FIA FT3-1999 specification
Minimum weight 975kg
Original Ford FE 427 C5AE-D 'Side Oiler' engine delivering 480bhp built by Lorrtec Race Engines
12.1:1 compression, all steel internals, JE/Mahle
Alloy cylinder heads C5AE-6090F
Dry sump lubrication
Holley four-barrel Carburettor
Ford four-speed Toploader gearbox with oil cooler
Auburn13/45 limited-slip differential - disc-type with oil cooler
For more details see HTP
Immensely competitive, and ready to use at any challenging event, this Cobra comes with the all-important FIA HTP papers (valid until 2029) and the even more important Belgian road-registration (1965 Shelby Cobra CSX 3120). A hardtop and left/right-hand bolt-on silencers (for legal road use) are included in the sale.
I came across this very rare Mustang a few years ago. It is a 1973 Fast Back (not a Mach 1) , with a Ram Air hood and factory twist locks. In original green , it is equipped with a original Hurst shifted 4 speed top loader and powered by a super rare 73 block 351 Cobra Jet. The owner is slowly restoring to mint condition , yet drives it frequently to cruise nites and shows.
Chassis n° CSX3120
Well-built in 2016 by Burgol - Switzerland
Bonhams
Les Grandes Marques du Monde à Paris
The Grand Palais Éphémère
Place Joffre
Parijs - Paris
Frankrijk - France
February 2023
Estimated : € 400.000 - 600.000
Sold for € 264.500
For the 1965 Shelby Cobra 427 Mk III, powered by the huge and powerful Ford 7.0-litre (427ci) Side Oiler' engine, a new chassis and body were designed and developed in cooperation with Ford in Detroit. The new chassis was built using 4・ (101.6mm) main chassis tubes (up from 3・) and coil spring suspension all around; the latter was an especially significant change up front, where the previously used transverse leaf spring had also served as the top link. The new car also had wider wings and a larger radiator intake. Two prototypes were sent from the UK to the USA in October 1964, and Cobra Mark III production began on 1st January 1965.
The Cobra on sale here is a tool-room copy of the 1965 Shelby PR car (chassis 'CSX3120'), an example known to have been destroyed in period. This Cobra was built in 2016 to full FIA specification by the leading historic race team Burgol in Geneva, Switzerland, on a correct new Kirkham chassis using an original chassis number 'CSX3120' (paperwork was obtained for this chassis number) and an aluminium body also supplied by Kirkham.
Faultlessly prepared by Burgol, the car was entered in the 2017 Peter Auto '60s Endurance series achieving a 2nd place at Le Castellet and a 3rd place at Dijon. The fastest lap time at Spa-Francorchamps was 2' 49" and the fastest lap time at Le Castellet was 2' 28". From 2018 to 2020 the car was entered in the Peter Auto CER1 series at Le Castellet, Spa-Francorchamps, and Monza.
The current engine, a 427ci (7.0-litre) V8 delivering 480bhp, was built by Burgol/Lorrtec Race Engines, and we are advised that it has done only two races: at Monza and Le Castellet. A Cobra FIA replica built to the highest standard, the car has proven to be a very reliable package and is ready to race. Specification highlights include the following:
Kirkham Aluminium body and steel chassis
Independent wishbone suspension front and rear
Koni telescopic dampers
Girling brake callipers
Front discs 290.5mm; rear discs 273mm
Wheels: front 15" x 7.5" rear 15" x 9.5"
FIA approved roll cage
160-litre foam-filled Fuel Safe Systems fuel tank to FIA FT3-1999 specification
Minimum weight 975kg
Original Ford FE 427 C5AE-D 'Side Oiler' engine delivering 480bhp built by Lorrtec Race Engines
12.1:1 compression, all steel internals, JE/Mahle
Alloy cylinder heads C5AE-6090F
Dry sump lubrication
Holley four-barrel Carburettor
Ford four-speed Toploader gearbox with oil cooler
Auburn13/45 limited-slip differential - disc-type with oil cooler
For more details see HTP
Immensely competitive, and ready to use at any challenging event, this Cobra comes with the all-important FIA HTP papers (valid until 2029) and the even more important Belgian road-registration (1965 Shelby Cobra CSX 3120). A hardtop and left/right-hand bolt-on silencers (for legal road use) are included in the sale.
The Iso Grifo is a limited production grand tourer automobile manufactured by Italian Iso Autoveicoli S.p.A. between 1965 and 1974.[1] Intended to compete with Ferrari and Maserati GTs, it utilized a series of American engines from Corvette and Ford to improve upon effectiveness of the production process and cost structure, maximize reliability of the critical power train components and ensure the necessary quality and performance expected from the top-tier exclusive and expensive high-performance automobiles. Styling was done by Giorgetto Giugiaro at Bertone, while the mechanicals were the work of Giotto Bizzarrini.[2]
The first production GL models appeared in 1965 and were powered by American Chevrolet Corvette small-block 327 (5.4 L) V8s fitted to Borg-Warner 4-speed manual transmissions. With over 400 horsepower (300 kW) and a vehicle weight of less than 2,200 pounds (1,000 kg), the Grifo was able to reach speeds over 275 km/h (171 mph).
In 1970 the Grifo Series II appeared, with sleeker styling and hide-away headlights and motivated by big-block Chevrolet 454 V8 power. It was replaced in 1972 with the Grifo IR-8, which utilized a small-block Ford Boss 351 engine as its power train. This was the last Iso of any type, as the manufacturer went bankrupt and eventually shut down and ceased all operations permanently in 1974.[1]Iso S.p.A. in Bresso was already well known for producing the high performance Iso Rivolta IR 300; a sleek looking 2+2 Coupe based on a Chevrolet Corvette power and drive train. After leaving Ferrari, in 1961 Giotto Bizzarrini set up “Prototipi Bizzarrini” in Livorno, Tuscany where he designed and consulted for marques like ATS, Lamborghini and Iso. In 1963, he designed the Iso Grifo A3/L (L for Lusso {Italian for Luxury}) for Renzo Rivolta, who was looking for a follow-up to his Iso Rivolta IR 300. The body was designed by Giorgetto Giugiaro at Bertone, while Bizzarrini put his expertise in the mechanicals.[2] Bizzarrini figured there would also be a demand for a race version of the Grifo and came up with the A3/C (C for Corsa) with a dramatic modified alloy body. He later dubbed it his “Improved GTO", as he had been the designer for the 250 GTO when he had worked for Ferrari. The engine was moved back about 40 centimetres (16 in), making the A3/C a front-mid-engined car. To adjust the timing a piece of the dash was removed. Both cars were being built simultaneously. When leaving the factory both the 250 GTO and Iso Grifo originally fitted Pirelli Cinturato 205VR15 tyres (CN72).
That same year Bertone showed the Grifo A3/L prototype at the Turin Auto Show, while Iso showed off the (partly unfinished) competition version; the Iso Grifo A3/C. Both were overwhelmingly successful. Although design changes had to be made to the prototype, Iso concentrated on getting the Grifo A3/L ready for production. The car got a light facelift that made it less aggressive but turned it into possibly the most elegant-looking Gran Turismo (GT) supercar ever produced. This “street” Iso Grifo GL received the fast, modified but reliable Chevrolet small-block 327 Corvette engine V8 (5.4 L) engine—either in 300 or 350 hp—coupled to a Borg-Warner 4-speed toploader. The engines were completely ordered and manufactured in the United States, then taken apart and blueprinted before they were eventually installed in the cars, much like it was done with the Iso Rivolta IR 300 before. With over 400 horsepower (300 kW) and a weight of less than 2,200 pounds (1,000 kg), the vehicle was able to reach speeds over 275 km/h (171 mph).
While Renzo Rivolta focused on the A3/L; Giotto tried to promote the A3/C—making for some tension between the two. This meant that the Grifo GL was being produced at Bresso and the A3/C at Piero Drogo’s Sports Cars of Modena under Giotto’s strict supervision. In 1964, the prototype Grifo A3/C raced at Le Mans (Edgar Berney/Pierre Noblet), running well until brake problems required a two-hour pit stop. The car then resumed the race, finally finishing in 14th place; an encouraging result for a brand-new car. Only 22 examples of the Bizzarrini Grifo A3/C were constructed before a disagreement between Renzo and Bizzarrini ended the cooperation.
Grifo GL – Bizzarrini A3/C split
Finally in 1965 Giotto Bizzarrini and Renzo Rivolta split ways, which resulted in separate production of the street Grifo GL and the competition Bizzarrini A3/C. Giotto refined his A3/C and this eventually turned out to be his line of Bizzarrini 5300 Stradas and Corsas. From here on the “Grifo” name was lost in connection to Bizzarrini.
Bizzarrini continued to build both Bizzarrini Stradas and Corsas and had the alloy bodies (put together with more than 10,000 rivets) built by BBM of Modena. In 1966 he introduced a scaled-down version, the Bizzarrini 1900 “Europa,” first shown in 1967. Most of these cars got a tuned-up version of the Opel 1900 engine,[which?] some got Alfa Romeo engines. Only about 17 Europas were ever built, making it one of the rarest of his creations. Even rarer is the Barchetta version, the P538, with only three ever produced. A total of around 155 Bizzarrini Stradas and Corsas were built before Bizzarrini closes down in 1969 after a bankruptcy; all remaining parts and cars were sold off.
Grifo production
The car developed 390 hp (290 kW) in its production form and could reach 110 km/h (68 mph) in first gear. Renzo Rivolta also showed a one-off Grifo A3/L Spyder at the Geneva auto show. The production of Iso Grifo GL started in 1965. In October 1966 the very first Grifo (car #97) with Targa Top was shown at Turin. This was one of 13 Series I Targas ever built; later, four series II Targas were built.[citation needed]
In 1968 the Grifo 7 Litri was introduced with a Chevrolet L71 big-block engine, a Tri-Power version of the 427 engine. This massive seven-liter power plant required several mechanical changes to the car to fit, i.e. strengthened chassis components as well as an enlarged engine compartment with reinforced mounts. Further a large hood scoop (dubbed "Penthouse" due to its size) was added to clear for the massive engine's tall deck height. It produced an officially advertised minimum of 435 hp (324 kW) at 5800 rpm, which was a somewhat conservative rating given the engine's well known and proven performance potential. The factory claimed it could reach a top speed of 300 km/h (186 mph).
Update
Iso Grifo Can Am with the characteristic „penthouse“ of the 7-litre engines on the hood and the hide-away headlights of the Grifo Series II.
In 1970 a styling change was made to the nose section of the car for the Grifo Series II. It got a sleeker look and hide-away headlights. In this new Series II, four Targas were built, and for the IR-9 "Can Am" version the engine was switched from the 427 engines to the newer 454 engine. Production stopped in 1972.
In 1972 the Grifo IR-8 was released, using a small-block Ford Boss 351 engines. These models can be recognized by their taller hood scoop. This was the final version of any Iso automobile, as Iso S.P.A. closed its doors in 1974 during the 1970s oil crisis.[1]
Totals
In total, 322 Series I and 78 Series II cars were built for a total of 413 Grifos, 90 of which 7 Litri. The rarest are the Series II 5-speeds (23 units) and the Series II Targa (4 units). Due to their rarity today Grifos are desirable collectibles. A former employee of Iso, Roberto Negri, runs a small company in Clusone, Italy, specializing in maintaining and restoring Grifos.
Ever wonder what one should take with them on an extended international backpacking adventure? Well, here's what I took on a 4-month long backbacking trip to Japan. This is going to be a long read, with(almost) every piece of gear I carry with me on a trip like this, and brief descriptions where necessary.
Let me start by telling you how I organize gear. 1-Shelter(including clothing and sleep system). 2-Food/Water(including cook systems and water procurement systems). 3-Tools(including weapons, blades, electronics, etc). 4-Miscellaneous(Camera gear, repair kits, IFAKs, etc.) 5-Carry systems(backpacks, mostly)
Starting with Shelter(see top left of image):
-Koppen Viggo 20 sleeping bag. I've been meaning to get a quality bag, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. If it keeps you warm, then you can make do with it.
-Coghlan's Bug net. In the red stuff-sack. Absolutely essential on warm/temperate adventures. Trust me. No, really, trust me.
-Eno Singlenest hammock. Do NOT buy a lower quality hammock. Again, trust me on this one. I've seen FOUR cheap hammocks break without any misuse. Buy a quality hammock. Also note: Mine came with very heavy, solid steel carabiners and no hanging line. I've replaced the biners with Metolius FS Mini biners. They are incredibly light weight while retaining a 22KN strength rating. Highly recommended! For hanging line, I use 750 cord; light and strong enough to hang on.
UPDATE: I still use this hammock, but my suspension system has changed. I now use Amsteel Blue as my hanging line, and I use a knotless setup with aluminum descender rings.
-Blue blanket borrowed from ANA airline after I landed in Tokyo. I don't carry anything like this usually, but this one's sort of like a souvenir to me.
-Carabiners. Aformentioned Metolius FS Minis.
-Small green bundle of fabric is a home-made sil-nylon pack cover. Sil-nylon is incredibly light(I mean INCREDIBLY light), much less bulky than many other waterproof fabrics, but is not as durable. Mine has held up well, though.
-Green folded fabric is a home-made bivy sack. I do not use a tent for a few very good reasons. I'm often stealth-camping, and a tent is WAAAY to overt for that, and a tent is heavy and bulky to carry. I haven't used a tent in years and I've had absolutely no regrets. There are some sacrifices made when using a minimal system such as a bivy, though. Ask me about it if you want some pros and cons.
-Sleeping pad. I use a cheap, Wal-Mart sleeping pad, cut to shape in order to fit in the floor of my Alpacka Packraft. There are lots of good reasons to use a cheap, closed-cell foam pad instead of an expensive pad, but the primary reason is that your sleeping pad will probably be destroyed by use over time, and a ruined $8 pad is easier to swallow than a ruined $80 pad.
-Being used as a tablecloth in the image, a cheap 6'x10' tarp. For the same reasons I use a cheap sleeping pad, I use a cheap tarp. I do have to make a note here, though: Not all cheap tarps are the same. I wish I could give you advice on which brands to avoid and which ones to buy, but I really don't remember the brands of the tarps I've bought. Anyway, many cheap tarps have extremely weak eyelets, a weak weave, and(if this is important to you like it is to me), a gloss coat. Some, however, do not have those problems. It's hit-and-miss. Good luck when shopping around, and let me know if you find a decent brand.
Clothing:
-Under Armour compression boxers, 2 pairs. Not recommended. On long treks, they do not wick away sweat as advertised, so you'll end up clammy. They also ride up a bit, and I used to hate that, but I've realized that letting them ride up -though slightly uncomfortable- helps to minimize chafing in and round your sensitive bits.
-5.11 Level 1 9” socks, 3 pairs. The ONLY socks I adventure with. Fantastic elasticity, great durability, and don't start to stink for a loooong time. Great socks!
UPDATE: While I still love how comfortable they are, they aren't as durable as I used to think. I've now owned about a dozen pairs of these, and I've stopped buying them. I've switched to Vermont Darn-Tough socks. More durable, about as comfortable, and they have a lifetime warranty.
-Starter longsleeve base shirt and Starter shortsleeve base shirt, one each. I'm not a snob. I love quality gear, but when a cheap option works this well, I'll advocate its use. These Wal-Mart shirts work just as well as my Under Armour shirts, at a much lower price point. Recommended.
-5.11 Taclite Pro pants, 1 pair. Never ask me about these pants, because I will never stop talking about them. I have a confession(something some of you know already): I love good pants. I REALLY love good pants, and I've spent thousands of dollars on quality pants over the past few years, and out of ALL of them, the 5.11 Taclite Pros are the pick of the litter. They are the best pants I've ever owned, without a doubt. I have them in several colors, but my favorite color is Tundra.
-Lightweight synthetic shorts, 1 pair. Useful in hot weather and as swimming trunks. Here's just a general note: Avoid cotton in all of your clothing. Seriously, just avoid it.
-Light fleece pajama pants, 1 pair. Used as (surprise!) pajamas, but also as an insulating layer in cold weather.
-Light fleece pullover, 1. Insulator in cold weather.
-Columbia HeatMode 2 jacket. Thin jacket for wind/light rain protection. I use this often but it's now out of production. I always travel with a light jacket made of a tightly-woven, synthetic material for wind and rain protection.
-Tru-Spec Web belt. A great belt for it's $6 price point! Recommended if a higher quality belt isn't in the budget. Also, it's flexible enough to be comfortable underneath a backpack hip-belt.
-Baseball cap, for sun protection.
-Shemagh, for 8 trillion different reasons. I recommend everyone have a shemagh on them at all times. Great for lots of things, but I use mine primarily as a scarf, for sun protection, and as a face mask.
-Lightly insulated gloves, for cold weather and for keeping your hands clean while adventuring. I use mine often, always have a pair of gloves! Standard Mechanix gloves are basically a Gold-Standard for adventure gloves.
-Marmot Precip hardshell jacket and pants. Although pricey, I recommend these. I'd actually pay the high price to buy them again if anything happens to mine. Durable, light, packed with features. Great rain suit!
UPDATE: I did end up buying a second set of these after my first ones disintegrated, and my second set is now also disintegrating. I no longer recommend this set. I'll update when I find a good alternative.
-Finally, I separate my clean clothes and my dirty clothes in their own mesh bags.
Food(Top right of the image):
-I won't get into my usual backpacking food, but there are lots of good resources on the web for that kind of info. Message me if you want to know my usual choices.
-I will mention the protein powder, though. If you're hiking and doing a lot of physically demanding tasks, FEED YO' MUSCLES, SON!
-Hard-sided, watertight container. I carry most of my food in a container of this description. It keeps delicate food items or potentially messy food items from getting crushed, it has an air-tight seal to keep animals from sniffing out your food, and it's waterproof. Alternatively, you could use a roll-top dry-bag, but that wont keep your food from getting crushed.
-Jetboil Flash. I avoided Jetboil systems for a long time, primarily because of their price, but when I encountered a fellow traveler using one in the Redwood forests of Northern California, I was blown away. I bought one a few days later, and now I'm spoiled and I never want to use any other cooking system again. Highly recommended!
-Lexan spoon, but no fork. I don't carry a fork because chopstix are easily crafted from twigs or acquired from restaurants. Here in Japan, they give them to you at the cash register when you buy food at grocery stores.
-Spare fuel canister. I actually don't usually carry a spare, since one canister lasts so long, but when I took this photo, my current canister was running low, so I bought a replacement.
-P-38 can opener. Always.
Water(In front of the sleeping pad):
-Nalgene SILO 1.5l water bottle. Nalgenes are an industry standard, and for good reason. However, I'm not picky, as witnessed by the next bullet point...
-Generic 1.5l softdrink bottle, repurposed as a water bottle. Same capacity as the SILO, lighter, but not as durable. I'm not a loyalist to any brand here, not even Nalgene, just be sure to use a reasonably durable bottle.
-Katadyn Hiker Pro water filter. I've been using this filter for years. Highly recommended. I did install a pre-filter the day I got it, though. I use cheap, very small, very light fuel filters. Don't get hung up on certain brands or models, though. I've used MSRs and other Katadyns, and I've done lots of personal research, and they all seem to do the same thing with similar results. Just don't get a Lifestraw. Seriously.
Tools:
-Morakniv HighQ Robust(Not pictured). This tool, as well as the next three tools listed, were in my system until I was arrested in Tokyo and they were confiscated. As a knife guy, I could talk at length about options and philosophies of use, but I'll just leave it at this: Moraknives are the best fixed-blade knife you can buy at their price-point.
-5.11 folding knife. Cheap garbage(Not pictured). I got it as a promo item when I ordered some other 5.11 gear, but I brought it in place of a better, more expensive knife in case anything happened to it. I'm lucky I did...
-Lockpicks. I have Sparrows, SouthOrd, and Peterson lockpicks. I've picked my fair share of locks, and I want to tell you all something. Home-made lock picks are better than each of the above-named brands. My standard set contains the following picks, all hand-made by myself: A shallow hook, a deep hook, a DeForest diamond, a Bogota 2-peak rake, a top-of-the-keyway serrated tension wrench, and 2 bottom-of-the-keyway smooth tension wrenches in different sizes. I carry my picks in a Sparrows Sentry case. Sometimes I carry shims as well, but I wasn't carrying any when I came to Japan.
UPDATE: My every-day lock pick selection has changed. If I'm going minimalist, a set of SEREpicks are what I carry, but if I can spare the extra room, I also bring a traveler's hook, some shims, an EZ-Decoder, and a few bypass tools.
-Leatherman Wave(Not pictured). Always have your multi-tool. There are lots of variations, only you can decide witch one is best for you.
-The pliers on the bottom of the image are a stand-in for a multi-tool. I found them in an abandoned building, so I took them with me. Pliers are incredibly useful, which is one of the primary reasons for carrying a multi-tool.
-No-name, fixed blade knife(bottom-center, next to my Rhodia note pad). I bought this a few days after I got out of jail in Tokyo, and I was pleasantly surprised. It's roughly three-quarter tang, hand-profiled, very hard carbon steel blade. It's been great so far!
-Four-Sevens QT2A-X flashlight, with a poorly-done, home paintjob. I've been using this light for a few years now, and I cannot recommend it. I'm a “Flashaholic,” a term coined by Nutnfancy, so I am VERY particular when it comes to flashlights. This light does not stand up to my requirements. Ask me about it if you want to know more.
UPDATE: ARMYTEK, Surefire, or Streamlight are all great options. I've been carrying Armytek now for a while, and I can't recommend them enough.
-The light is in a home-made .93 Kydex holster. Very cheap, very trim, very effective, great retention.
-Also attached to the light is a Tac-Ord lanyard. I will always recommend attaching your light to a lanyard.
-Fenix diffuser head, modified for use on the above flashlight.
-Fenix Headband, for turning any light with a body diameter of 18-22mm into a headlight. Recommended! However, the process is slow. The retention screw must be completely removed in order to set the light into the clamp. A faster system would be nice, but I haven't found one that's better than this.
-Streamlight Nano/Terralux TLF-KEY1 frankenlight. I recommend both of these micro flashlights, but I recommend the frankenlight even more! With the body of the Streamlight and the head of the Terralux. :p
-Suunto A30 compass with a 550 lanyard. Great compass, very accurate, glow-in-the-dark, rotating bezel. Recommended.
-Garmin eTrex Legend handheld GPS. This thing is definitely dated, has an old, unreliable antenna, and has frustrating controls. Not recommended at all.
-Goal Zero Guide 10+ charger(pictured) paired with the Nomad 7 solar panel(not pictured). This system has served me well over the past 4 years. It charges 4x AA or AAA(with adapter) batteries at a time, and you can usually get enough sunlight in a day to make 2 full charges. It'll also charge my camera batteries, one at a time, and has a USB 2.0 port, so will charge cell phones, MP3 players, whatever. It's a decent, inexpensive system. You can't expect super high performance in a light, backpack-able package, but this is probably as good as you're going to get in this philosophy of use. I will say that it is the most versatile system I've ever found in my research. Recommended. Ask me about it if you want more info.
-8 Goal Zero NiMh, 2300mAH AA batteries, stored in a Bluecell battery case.
-8 Goal Zero NiMh, 800mAH AAA batteries, stored in a Bluecell battery case.
Miscellaneous Stuff:
-50-100' of 550 paracord. Innumerable uses.
-100' of bank-line. Choose your own diameter, I use #15. Great for anything that requires less bulk and strength than paracord.
-Sewing kit. Plenty of thread, multiple needles, stored in a plastic, flip-top tube container. I use mine constantly.
-Primary phone: Nokia Lumia 520 (Windows-based). Not recommended. Windows hasn't been working on their phone OS as long as Android and Apple has, so there are more bugs than the competitors.
-Secondary phone: Motorolla Moto G(Gen1) 8gb, Global GSM(Android-based). Fantastic phone at it's price! I did a lot of research before buying this phone, and I've been very happy with it.
UPDATE: Still using the Moto G series of phones. I'm currently using the Moto G 5 Play, and I'll be buying the 6 when this one dies.
-Note! The Maps.Me Android app is amazing for international travel. Requires no data, no service, nothing. You download whatever maps you want, and you can zoom in, search, navigate- all possible without any connection at all! Great app, very detailed maps for almost every country in the world.
UPDATE: STILL MY RECOMMENDED TRAVEL MAP APP!
-Notepad. Pictured is a French-made Rhodia dotPad #12. Not recommended. Assembled with a single staple, covers are falling off after 2 months of carry and use.
-Writing utensils: Pictured are a 1) Pilot Opt. 0.5 mechanical pencil. Terrible eraser, mediocre spring-tensioned clip. 2) Pilot 3-color, 0.5 Frixion pen. At first I was stoked on this pen. The ink used will disappear with heat, so you get a rubberized-plastic eraser that is designed to create heat through friction, making the ink almost completely disappear. But, after asking around, I've heard stories of ink disappearing when left on hot dashboards and such. That's a dealbreaker. 3) Stabilo Worker 0.3 pen. Not recommended. Running about $8, its ball-point system will NOT keep your lines anywhere near 0.3mm. More like .7 or so. Personally, I'd replace each of these with Zebra pens and pencils. Simple, attractive, reliable.
-Extra pencil lead. I like harder lead rather than softer, but I haven't done enough research or testing to recommend any certain brand.
-Full-sized notebook. The one I'm currently carrying another French-made book- a Jour & Etoffe Color-Fil, 6mm-ruled notebook. Recommended, but good luck finding one. I'm actually kind of particular with my notebooks, but carry whatever you want.
-Generic protractor/ruler combi-tool. I happen to enjoy technical drawing, so I carry something like this often, just to aid in my doodling. However, a ruler is very useful in travel. Most multi-tools will have one engraved in the handles.
-Tissues
-Primary wallet: Keep one wallet with your day-money and photocopies of your Ids in an accessible pocket.
-Secondary wallet: Keep another wallet with the rest of your money and your actual Ids in a separate pocket, preferably a more secure one.
-A few lighters. I don't smoke, but lighters come in handy every so often.
-MP3 Player. I hate iPods, so I've been trying different players over the years. The latest iteration of Sandisk's Sansa series, the Sport+ is actually pretty good. No removable battery, but it has expandable memory, so you can use your micro SD card.
UPDATE: The Sansa series was awful, so I found a generic MP3 player buy a company called Niusute, and it's been GREAT. I've had it for about a year now, and it's held up well. It doesn't have a user-replaceable battery, but it does have expandable memory, and its best feature is that it has a battery life of 80 hours! I use it constantly, and I generally recharge it once a week.
-Micro SD to regular SD adapter, in protective case.
-I am very partial to JVC Marshmallow headphones. I recommend them to everyone, but I bought a different kind of headphone after reading lots of favorable reviews. They have something of a cult following, but frankly, I have not found any reason to like the MonoPrice Hi-Fis. Mediocre. Better than dollar-store headphones, but not by a whole lot.
-Extra ear pieces for my headphones. I always manage to lose mine.
-On this trip, I brought a small Japanese dictionary. The one pictured is excellent. I did some research before settling on this one, and I'm glad I chose it. Recommended for anyone traveling to Japan.
-Pack towel. Never go anywhere without your towel! Arthur Dent will tell you why.
-Business cards. I don't have any reason to have my own, but I collect them everywhere I go from people I meet. It's easier than asking people for their Facebook or E-mail. Just get their business card and stick it in your wallet.
-Lenovo Thinkpad E440, with a Core i5. I usually don't travel with a full-sized computer, but I wanted to edit photos as I went, so I brought my photo-editing computer with me. Included is the appropriate charging cable, a wireless mouse, and a mouse pad. A note on the mouse: Bring a wired mouse when traveling if you bring a mouse at all. It wont take any of your valuable rechargeables, so they can be used elsewhere.
-Silicon Power 1TB external HDD. Highly recommended! I've had this for about a year and a half now, and I've thrown it in snow, dropped it on concrete, dropped it into a sink full of water... And it comes with its own cable, stored neatly in a built-in compartment. Great hard drive!
UPDATE: Still recommend these! Great hard drives!
Hygiene:
-Antibacterial wipes
-Nail clippers
-Razor
-Toothbrush
-Castile soap stored in a repurposed glycerin bottle. This stuff is amazing. I use Dr. Bronner's. It's made of plant material, non-toxic, biodegradable, and extremely versatile! It can be used as shampoo, body wash, face wash, shaving cream, and even toothpaste. As an added bonus for the Tea Tree variety of Castile soap- it acts as a bug deterrent. For about half a day after using it, it works very effectively to repel mosquitoes, gnats, ticks, whatevs. Highly recommended in every flavor!
-My hygiene supplies are all stored in a Kifaru zipper pouch.
Camera Gear: I'm not going to get much into camera gear here. It's not all pictured, but ask me about it if you want to know anything. I'm going to list a few things here, though. Just the “notable” things, I guess.
-Nikon D750.
-Canon 70D.
-5 batteries for each. A mix of OEM and non-OEM. There are lots of good off-brand batteries, do your research before buying.
-Joby Gorillapod Focus with the Ballhead-X. Highly recommended! Love this tripod.
-A zoom lens. At least 250mm, but keep weight in mind if you're backpacking.
-A 50mm lens. Because it's beautiful.
-A wide-angle lens.
-I personally love fish-eye lenses, so I carry one with me. I love being able to see ~so much~ and the distortion doesn't bother me at all.
-Chargers with car adapters.
-LowePro Toploader Pro 70AW. This is another thing that you shouldn't ever ask me about. I will talk your ear off about the quality and features for hours. Of ALL LowePro gear, for that matter. I also have their ProTactic 350. LowePro gear is not particular cheap, but it's worth every penny you'll pay for it. Would you put $5,000 worth of camera and lenses in a $20 case? I wouldn't. Amazing gear. Also, the AW versions have a built-in rain cover.
-Attached to the above bag is a LowePro lens case, compatible with LowePro's SlipLock attachment system.
-Extra memory cards. Seriously, bring extras.
Carry System:
-REI XT-85. I've been using it for two years. Highly recommended.
-Adidas Cinch-bag. Bought it in college, and it's still in great shape. Highly recommended. I bring this with me for times when I can store or hide my XT-85, so I can explore a city without being weighed down. There are lots of small packs that will fill this role, but this is what I had on hand, and I like it.
Not pictured: Here are things I usually bring, but didn't bring on this trip; or gear that I DO have now, but didn't put it in the picture for some reason.
-Handcuff key and Master bump key. Located in a hidden pocket somewhere on my clothing. When I was arrested in Tokyo, and they VERY thoroughly searched ALL of my belongings, they never found these. :)
-IFAK. Stands for Individual First Aid Kit. There isn't one pictured because my custom-built level 1 IFAK went missing before my trip. Whoops.
-A mesh bug shirt. These aren't super effective, but I often carry one because they are extremely lightweight, and offer a ~little~ bit of protection. Just enough to keep you from losing your mind as you set up your net over your sleep system.
-When I'll be filtering water from sources that are likely to contain critters, such as agricultural run-off, I will carry a water purifier in addition to my water filter. My purifier of choice is the Steri-Pen Adventurer Opti with the purpose-built solar charging case.
-Many of you know how much I love packrafting. When you carry one, you have to include the other components of the system. For me, these components are as follows: Packraft, paddle, repair kit, inflation bag, dry bag for the rest of your gear, paracord for lashing your gear to the raft while traveling by water, seat, seat back, riser seat, and stuff-sack. The entire system usually weighs about 7 pounds with the gear that I own and use. It's possible to get your entire packrafting system down to about 5 pounds.
-Guns. When I travel in places where I can legally carry a pistol, I carry a Glock 19(Gen 4) in one of two ways. When I carry openly, it's in a G-Code XST RTI holster on a Low-Ride RTI platform, attached to my clothing belt(not my pack belt). When I'm concealing, I add a Kifaru Koala to my pack system, and I carry the pistol in the Koala's dedicated CCW compartment. In either case, I always use Glock 17 magazines outfitted with Arredondo +6 extensions. Arredondo products are very highly recommended by me! Awesome stuff. I carry spare magazines in either a G-code dual mag holder(RTI variety), or in the mag caddies inside the Kifaru Koala.
-The Kifaru Koala is another piece of gear that I'll talk forever about. It's amazing. Perfect. Lovely. Perfect. Comfy. Perfect. I love it! Added bonus: Last year, Kifaru dropped the price on the Koala. Yay!
-Last but not least... Kelsey. Poor Kelsey got left at home on this trip. It was a difficult decision, and I've regretted it many times over since arriving in Japan. I only hope she'll forgive me when I get back. I'm sorry, Kelsey. :(
I think that pretty much covers it! That was even longer than I thought it would be... If you've made it this far, I'm sure you can tell by now that I'm very particular about the gear I use, and most of what I own has been thoroughly researched before it was purchased. I love quality gear, and it's very important to me to use gear that performs its intended task very well. I never buy anything just because it's the first thing I found on Amazon that does vaguely what I need it to do. No, I spend months, and sometimes even YEARS(no kidding) researching a particular piece of equipment before buying it. If I own it, it's because I have deemed it to be better than any other piece of gear that fits the exact niche I set out to fill.
View on Black (for better clarity, contrast, and color saturation).
First light at Zion National Park - Towers of the Virgin (i.e. West Temple, Sundial, Alter of the Sacrifice).
This is one of my first images with my new Canon EOS 7D. I keep a 15mm-85mm zoom on the Canon 7D, packed in a LowePro TopLoader (this is my take-everywhere-camera). This combination handles 90% of my needs. I pack my Canon 5D Mark II and other lenses into the car when I'm on a more serious shoot.
Sharing, Downloads, and Prints: Need a free image for your personal blog, or want to discuss a commercial license? Contact me or send an email to royce.bair [at] gmail [dot] com. Prints and Downloads are available on SmugMug.
My iPhone Photography Blog (iphoneography)
Bright Yellow.
The Mk I Capri was built in the UK from 1969-74, it got ‘Pony Car’ styling; long hood, short deck, like the US Mustang.
The Mk I Capri was also assembled in other markets such as Australia and South Africa. Ford of South Africa assembled the Capri from 1970-72, with 1600cc 4 cylinder and 3 litre V6 engine options. About 500 Capris were converted by local specialist Basil Green Motors to run the 302 Ford Windsor V8 engine and other XW Falcon mechanicals, sourced from Australia. It was available with a four-speed Ford Toploader transmission or the three-speed C4 automatic and boasted a top speed of 228 km/h. Known as the Capri Perana, these cars were very successful in local touring car events, winning the 1970 and 1971 South African championships. The Capri Perana was only available in Bright Yellow and Piri Piri Red, however some cars were painted in different colours, including Basil Green's own Perana, which was, naturally, green. Production ended in 1973.
As the 1990s dawned, renewed competition from technologically superior systems such as the 16-bit Sega Mega Drive (called the Sega Genesis in North America) marked the end of the NES’s dominance. Eclipsed by Nintendo's own Super Nintendo Entertainment System (SNES), the NES’s user base gradually waned. Nintendo continued to support the system in North America through the first half of the decade, even releasing a new version of the system's console, the NES-101 model (known as the HVC-101 in Japan), to address many of the design flaws in the original console hardware.
In the wake of ever decreasing sales and the lack of new software titles, Nintendo of America officially discontinued the NES by 1995. Despite this, Nintendo of Japan kept producing new Nintendo Famicom units up until September 2003 when it discontinued the line. Even as developers ceased production for the NES, a number of high-profile video game franchises and series for the NES were transitioned to newer consoles and remain popular to this day. - Wikipedia.org
Les Grandes Marques du Monde au Grand Palais
Bonhams
Estimated : € 100.000 - 150.000
Parijs - Paris
Frankrijk - France
February 2018
- Carroll Shelby-approved Cobra replica
- 428ci (7.0-litre) Ford V8 engine
- Manual transmission
- Two owners
- 11.771 miles (approximately 18.900 km) from new
'There's an exception when it comes to Jimmy Price and Lance Stander. Superformance International makes replica Cobras in South Africa and calls the two-seat roadster they build the MkIII. ...I've endorsed and licensed the car for being as close to correct and well-built as possible.' – Carroll Shelby.
Rightly regarded as one of the all-time great classic sports cars, the muscular, fire-breathing Cobra succeeded in capturing the hearts of enthusiasts like few of its contemporaries. Convinced that a market existed for an inexpensive sports car combining European chassis engineering and American V8 power, Le Mans-winning Texan racing driver Carroll Shelby concocted an unlikely alliance between AC Cars and the Ford Motor Company. The former's Ace provided the simple twin-tube chassis frame into which was persuaded one of Ford's lightweight, small-block V8s. In 1965 a new, stronger, coil-suspended chassis was introduced to accommodate Ford's 427 ci (7.0-litre) V8, an engine that in race trim was capable of producing well in excess of 400 bhp. Wider bodywork, extended wheelarch flares, and a bigger radiator intake combined to create the definitive - and much copied - Cobra 427 look.
Only 1.000-or-so Cobras of all types were built between 1962 and 1967, but such was the model's enduring popularity that production was resumed in 1982 under the auspices of Brooklands-based Autokraft. In parallel with Autokraft's 'official' MkIV version, a worldwide cottage industry of replica-builders emerged to satisfy the continuing demand for the legendary Cobra, making it arguably the most popular 'kit car' of all time.
The car offered here is the 74th Cobra MkIII built by the Carroll Shelby-approved Superformance International. In line with Superformance's policy, it was constructed as a fully finished rolling chassis and despatched to their customer (in the USA) for equipping with the engine and transmission of their choice. In this case the combination chosen was Ford's 428 ci (7.0-litre) 'big block' V8 engine and a Ford Toploader four-speed manual gearbox. Engine specification highlights include fully ported and polished cylinder heads, stainless steel valves, custom grind camshaft with hydraulic lifters, Keith Black high-performance pistons, Edelbrock double-roller timing chain, and a Melling high-volume oil pump. Maximum power is reported as in the region of 550 bhp. Other noteworthy features include fully adjustable shock absorbers, Smiths instruments, Superformance Cobra-look wheels, roll bar, Goodyear Eagle tyres, side-exit exhausts, sun visors, and a black leather interior.
Trying out my new Stealth Bike Bags on my commute. New Zealand-made goodness in black multicam. The Top Loader works well with a Revelate Designs Tangle Bag as you can position the straps anywhere that suits.
clockwise, starting at the bottom: Metz 52 AF-1 for Pentax; HD Pentax DFA ED WR 28-105mm, f/3.5-5.6; Pentax K-1 with smc Pentax DA 35mm, f/2.8 macro Limited; Rogue Flashbender; Tamron SP AF Di 90mm, f/2.8 macro; smc Pentax FA 35mm, f/2; Pentax K200D with Sigma EX DC 30mm, f/1.4. Behind the K-1 is a Lowepro Toploader 55AW.
20191230_133950
The Iso Grifo is a limited production grand tourer automobile manufactured by Italian Iso Autoveicoli S.p.A. between 1965 and 1974.[1] Intended to compete with Ferrari and Maserati GTs, it utilized a series of American engines from Corvette and Ford to improve upon effectiveness of the production process and cost structure, maximize reliability of the critical power train components and ensure the necessary quality and performance expected from the top-tier exclusive and expensive high-performance automobiles. Styling was done by Giorgetto Giugiaro at Bertone, while the mechanicals were the work of Giotto Bizzarrini.[2]
The first production GL models appeared in 1965 and were powered by American Chevrolet Corvette small-block 327 (5.4 L) V8s fitted to Borg-Warner 4-speed manual transmissions. With over 400 horsepower (300 kW) and a vehicle weight of less than 2,200 pounds (1,000 kg), the Grifo was able to reach speeds over 275 km/h (171 mph).
In 1970 the Grifo Series II appeared, with sleeker styling and hide-away headlights and motivated by big-block Chevrolet 454 V8 power. It was replaced in 1972 with the Grifo IR-8, which utilized a small-block Ford Boss 351 engine as its power train. This was the last Iso of any type, as the manufacturer went bankrupt and eventually shut down and ceased all operations permanently in 1974.Iso S.p.A. in Bresso was already well known for producing the high performance Iso Rivolta IR 300; a sleek looking 2+2 Coupe based on a Chevrolet Corvette power and drive train. After leaving Ferrari, in 1961 Giotto Bizzarrini set up “Prototipi Bizzarrini” in Livorno, Tuscany where he designed and consulted for marques like ATS, Lamborghini and Iso. In 1963, he designed the Iso Grifo A3/L (L for Lusso {Italian for Luxury}) for Renzo Rivolta, who was looking for a follow-up to his Iso Rivolta IR 300. The body was designed by Giorgetto Giugiaro at Bertone, while Bizzarrini put his expertise in the mechanicals.[2] Bizzarrini figured there would also be a demand for a race version of the Grifo and came up with the A3/C (C for Corsa) with a dramatic modified alloy body. He later dubbed it his “Improved GTO", as he had been the designer for the 250 GTO when he had worked for Ferrari. The engine was moved back about 40 centimetres (16 in), making the A3/C a front-mid-engined car. To adjust the timing a piece of the dash was removed. Both cars were being built simultaneously. When leaving the factory both the 250 GTO and Iso Grifo originally fitted Pirelli Cinturato 205VR15 tyres (CN72).
That same year Bertone showed the Grifo A3/L prototype at the Turin Auto Show, while Iso showed off the (partly unfinished) competition version; the Iso Grifo A3/C. Both were overwhelmingly successful. Although design changes had to be made to the prototype, Iso concentrated on getting the Grifo A3/L ready for production. The car got a light facelift that made it less aggressive but turned it into possibly the most elegant-looking Gran Turismo (GT) supercar ever produced. This “street” Iso Grifo GL received the fast, modified but reliable Chevrolet small-block 327 Corvette engine V8 (5.4 L) engine—either in 300 or 350 hp—coupled to a Borg-Warner 4-speed toploader. The engines were completely ordered and manufactured in the United States, then taken apart and blueprinted before they were eventually installed in the cars, much like it was done with the Iso Rivolta IR 300 before. With over 400 horsepower (300 kW) and a weight of less than 2,200 pounds (1,000 kg), the vehicle was able to reach speeds over 275 km/h (171 mph).
While Renzo Rivolta focused on the A3/L; Giotto tried to promote the A3/C—making for some tension between the two. This meant that the Grifo GL was being produced at Bresso and the A3/C at Piero Drogo’s Sports Cars of Modena under Giotto’s strict supervision. In 1964, the prototype Grifo A3/C raced at Le Mans (Edgar Berney/Pierre Noblet), running well until brake problems required a two-hour pit stop. The car then resumed the race, finally finishing in 14th place; an encouraging result for a brand-new car. Only 22 examples of the Bizzarrini Grifo A3/C were constructed before a disagreement between Renzo and Bizzarrini ended the cooperation.
Grifo GL – Bizzarrini A3/C split
Finally in 1965 Giotto Bizzarrini and Renzo Rivolta split ways, which resulted in separate production of the street Grifo GL and the competition Bizzarrini A3/C. Giotto refined his A3/C and this eventually turned out to be his line of Bizzarrini 5300 Stradas and Corsas. From here on the “Grifo” name was lost in connection to Bizzarrini.
Bizzarrini continued to build both Bizzarrini Stradas and Corsas and had the alloy bodies (put together with more than 10,000 rivets) built by BBM of Modena. In 1966 he introduced a scaled-down version, the Bizzarrini 1900 “Europa,” first shown in 1967. Most of these cars got a tuned-up version of the Opel 1900 engine,[which?] some got Alfa Romeo engines. Only about 17 Europas were ever built, making it one of the rarest of his creations. Even rarer is the Barchetta version, the P538, with only three ever produced. A total of around 155 Bizzarrini Stradas and Corsas were built before Bizzarrini closes down in 1969 after a bankruptcy; all remaining parts and cars were sold off.
Grifo production
The car developed 390 hp (290 kW) in its production form and could reach 110 km/h (68 mph) in first gear. Renzo Rivolta also showed a one-off Grifo A3/L Spyder at the Geneva auto show. The production of Iso Grifo GL started in 1965. In October 1966 the very first Grifo (car #97) with Targa Top was shown at Turin. This was one of 13 Series I Targas ever built; later, four series II Targas were built.[citation needed]
In 1968 the Grifo 7 Litri was introduced with a Chevrolet L71 big-block engine, a Tri-Power version of the 427 engine. This massive seven-liter power plant required several mechanical changes to the car to fit, i.e. strengthened chassis components as well as an enlarged engine compartment with reinforced mounts. Further a large hood scoop (dubbed "Penthouse" due to its size) was added to clear for the massive engine's tall deck height. It produced an officially advertised minimum of 435 hp (324 kW) at 5800 rpm, which was a somewhat conservative rating given the engine's well known and proven performance potential. The factory claimed it could reach a top speed of 300 km/h (186 mph).
Update
Iso Grifo Can Am with the characteristic „penthouse“ of the 7-litre engines on the hood and the hide-away headlights of the Grifo Series II.
In 1970 a styling change was made to the nose section of the car for the Grifo Series II. It got a sleeker look and hide-away headlights. In this new Series II, four Targas were built, and for the IR-9 "Can Am" version the engine was switched from the 427 engines to the newer 454 engine. Production stopped in 1972.
In 1972 the Grifo IR-8 was released, using a small-block Ford Boss 351 engines. These models can be recognized by their taller hood scoop. This was the final version of any Iso automobile, as Iso S.P.A. closed its doors in 1974 during the 1970s oil crisis.[1]
Totals
In total, 322 Series I and 78 Series II cars were built for a total of 413 Grifos, 90 of which 7 Litri. The rarest are the Series II 5-speeds (23 units) and the Series II Targa (4 units). Due to their rarity today Grifos are desirable collectibles. A former employee of Iso, Roberto Negri, runs a small company in Clusone, Italy, specializing in maintaining and restoring Grifos.
Amber Gold
From 1970 to 1973, the Falcon GT was assembled in South Africa and sold there as a Fairmont GT. The XW in 1970 and XY 71-73. They were built in Geelong and sent in CKD form, final assembly in South Africa, included painting and more like a Futura interior fitted (Fairmont Trim in Australia). Hood lining was white instead of black. They still got the Aussie GT console, steering wheel and dash (no woodgrain tho and gauges were in metric) Trim colours included Black, Saddle, Red and Dark Green.
Outside they looked much the same as Aussie GTs, apart from their unique paint colours, GS chrome wheel covers, most had vinyl roofs, the XY had a Super Rhino within the side stripe and the XW had GS stripes with a 351GT badge at the end.
Mechanically, the XW got only the 2V 351 and 2 bbl carb whereas the XY got the same 4V engine, toploader and 9 inch as the Aussie GT.
239 XW Fairmont GTs and 1801 XY Fairmont GTs were made
The new look of the 1966/67 Fairlanes featured vertical stacked headlights. A mild facelift in 1967 saw a new grille and new taillights.
The base model was available in 2 and 4 door Sedan and Wagon.
Fairlane 500 chrome, carpet and sill moulds; 2 and 4 door Sedan, 2 door Hardtop, Convertible and Wagon. A few Fairlane 500 2 door hardtops were built with'R-code' 427 CID V8s and 4 speed with fibreglass hood and hood scoop.
Fairlane 500 XL upmarket interior, bucket seats and console. (2 door Hardtop and Convertible), the Wagon was the 500 Squire.
Fairlane GTs got the 390 V8 and 4 speed Toploader (GTAs got Cruiseomatic), a special hood, striping, heavy duty suspension, disc brakes. (2 door Hardtop and Convertible)
Engines; 120hp 200 6 cyl, 200hp 289, 265hp 390 and 425hp 427 cu in V8s
I knew that the weather was going to be great this morning, but with me not being in either Snowdonia or Cumbria I hadn't planned on getting up to summit anywhere in time for dawn. I didn't sleep too well, but that wasn't a bad thing, as upon waking at 0545 this morning I noticed an orange and pink haze rising above the horizon. Good job I hadn't drawn the curtains before going to bed!
I knew I had to head out and take advantage of the clear skies. The only location I could think of traveling to within the short time I had was New Brighton. I hadn't been there since going crabbing as a young child so I had no idea what to expect.
One thing I did know, was that it was low tide, so I knew I'd get something.
Here are the results.
I was quite surprised at how quickly the tide rose, however it made for some great reflections.
One thing that I love about making sunrise in the spring and summer is that I can get out an take in some amazing scenery and be back at the office replying to my clients emails and writing training programmes by 0800.
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All pictures available as prints (framed or unframed)
Message me on this page for a quotation
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Nikon D7200
Nikon 17-35mm f/2.8
Lee 0.6 Medium ND Grad
Lee 0.9 Hard edge ND Grad
Lee Filter Holder
Lee Landscape Polariser
Lee adapter ring
Manfrotto MT055 CX Pro Carbon Fiber tripod
Manfrotto MH X Pro Ball Head
Lowepro filter pouch
Lowepro toploader zoom 50 camera bag
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