View allAll Photos Tagged technique
My travel technique is one often ridiculed by those who don't understand. Actually, i've ridiculed it myself! Ever since my first trip to Europe, my style has been that of the typical American I guess: See as much as possible and at a rapid pace. I actually spent about 4 hours in Venice my first trip there. FOUR HOURS! Jumped on a boat from the train station, headed to St. Marks, walked a few alleys, got back on the train, and bam....off to Florence. Silly, I know...
Fast forward a few years and I'm essentially the same guy, not quite AS bad, but still a bit hyper. All that being said, it was at first quite torturous to wait here for the slowly wandering tourists to clear out of the shot. Its kinda funny, when your waiting...they seem to move slow as molasses, don't they? Appearing to be studying nothing at all, one guy wandered in and out of my camera view for what seemed like hours!
Like a slap in the face, however, my focus changed. What in the hell was I in such a rush for. If I could only slow the pace down a few clips, I might actually be able to let my mind wander a bit and imagine the stories these walls might be able to tell. Almost like a scene from a bedtime story I might have read to my daughter, this place was magical. As I sat down on the cool stones in the corner, I allowed myself to sink into the music on the Ipod while noticing the details in the arches, the texture in the stones, the musty smell of years gone by, .......WOW. Its amazing what we let out minds filter out in the rush of the average day.
I sometimes wonder what value there is in spending so much time behind the lense, until I recall moments like this :)
Shoulder Length bob razor haircut with layers – Dry haircutting techniques on mid length hair
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Two High is a new font in Swooshable's font directory. Variants have been floating around a long time, but I think the original version can be attributed to William Howard.
You can write with this font using Swooshable's Font Tester. I appreciate any feedback, yay/nay and links, so please let me know if you have any thoughts.
I think you can never built in too many styles. This was really just a tablescrap I built around the weird track the barrel runs in to adjust elevation. It's probably impractical for any application more serious than this one, but I like stuff like that anyway. Plus, it's been ages since I built a tank.
For We're Here! who are visiting Books Reviewed.
For my 21st birthday Perry bought me this book.
Perry was someone I met when I first went to college and is someone I love. She was creative, artistic, fun, caring and a unique personality. Val and I shared a flat for a time with Perry and Simon in London. Perry died in a road accident. She was a teacher with young children.
I still think about Perry a lot. She had a big impact on me.
The book is a "sex manual" with drawings and photos that are not really explicit. The title "Sexual Techniques" says it all..
Here is a new set of LEGO ideas and techniques, made with LDD
I'm sure you'll find a use to this idea
I tried to make the explanation readable thanks to the colors as if we had a tutorial
Do not forget to watch the album with all the right techniques on your right =>
Find all my creations on Flickr group « News LEGO Techniques ».
This Flickr group includes:
- Ideas for new LEGO pieces
- Techniques for assembling bricks
- Tutorials for making accessories, objects, etc.
Technique for combining UV and normal colour images to produce a composite false-colour UV image. This is analogous to colour infrared film, but with the spectrum shifted in the opposite direction.
1. Take an UV image with a suitable camera and filter. Care must be taken to exclude infrared contamination by using an IR-blocking filter with your UV-transmitting filter. Take a normal colour image. Align the UV and colour images if needed. If you use a good tripod, the two images should be aligned.
2. Split the colour image into R, G and B channel images.
3. Discard the R channel image. Re-map the G image to new R channel, B image to new G channel, and the UV image to new B channel.
4. Merge the channels to create the GBU image. Adjust colour/brightness/contrast to taste. SAVE.
The false colours generated are very informative in regards to the degree of UV reflectance of materials. Green plants absorb UV and thus appear dark brown, which represents mapping of the green chlorophyll pigments to red, with a bit of blue mapping to green. White objects still appear white if they also reflect UV. Many white paints are formulated to absorb UV and thus appear yellow (white minus blue).
A set of images created in this manner is found here:
www.flickr.com/photos/jw_wong/sets/72157623902498925/
A similar technique for creating false-colour infrared images is explained here:
"TBS students, circa 1958-1960: Pack animal patrolling techniques."
From The Basic School (TBS) Collection (COLL/3706) at the Archives Branch, Marine Corps History Division
OFFICIAL USMC PHOTOGRAPH
Sedan.
Ample evidence still exists in Sedan and the district of the early building techniques used. The stone buildings show the work of the masons, while the country buildings show the use of mallee root walls, dry stone fences, thatched barns and even the occasional pine and pug hut. The native pine used was Callistris species which are resistant to termites. We will see one such cottage near Sedan. The last remaining mallee root fence in the district has now gone. The dry stone walls are a feature of the eastern side of the Mt Lofty Ranges as the area was scattered with granite boulders and other rocks. Most of these walls were constructed before the 1870s to divide the great pastoral runs. Generally the walls are one metre high, and almost one metre wide at the base tapering to 40 cms at the top. Some walls were built as recently as the Great Depression of the 1930s, especially along road edges of the Sedan Hill road. The mallee root fences were erected as a cheaper version of fencing wire. Sadly all the mallee root fences are now gone.
Pine and pug cottage near Sedan.
Sedan lies in the Hundred of Bagot on the Murray Plains and was so-named by a farmer of Tanunda, Johann Pfeiffer when he purchased 306 acres of land in the vicinity in 1870. It is presumed he named his property sedan to commemorate the German victory over France in the Franco-Prussian war of 1870. At that time he was not able to foresee that other localities in the district would also end up being named after battles. There had been earlier lessees of the land in the area but the leases were forfeited back to the government in August 1860 when the Hundred of Bagot was proclaimed. The land was subsequently surveyed for closer settlement. The rivers of the district were named by the famed SA geologist Menge who called them the North and South Rhine Rivers after the rivers of his homeland in Germany.
The first white men to traverse the district were overlanders with flocks of sheep or cattle from NSW. One of their routes was to cross the Murray near Blanchtown and drive their flocks up the Marne River valley and into the Adelaide Hills. The first lessee of the district was George Melrose who took out a leasehold in 1845. He established his homestead at Rosebank, east of Mt Pleasant. The run was inherited by his third son George Melrose (1860-1938) who was born at Rosebank in 1860. He managed other family properties near Cowell and Hallett. He was an important pastoralist as he introduced to Australia the first Dorset sheep, the first French Percheron horses (the police greys) and Wensleydale sheep. He purchased Booborowie station where he lived from 1897. Sir John Stanley Murray (1884-1971) was born on 27 March 1884 at Rosebank and acquired the property from one of his uncles Sir George Murray, a benefactor of the University of Adelaide. He lived on the property and his managers were responsible for its development as a leading Aberdeen Angus stud. Through marriage the property went from the Murrays to the McLachlans. The three families have prominent headstones in the Mt Pleasant cemetery.
Land sales started in July 1869 and gentlemen speculators as well as genuine farmers bought the land. The latter group mainly came from the North Rhine district around Keyneton and Eden Valley, but also from other areas of the Barossa Valley. Most were of German descent wanting new agricultural lands for their second and third sons. The town itself was surveyed in 1875 and again in 1883 by C. von Bertouch and very soon the town had a flour miller, a baker, blacksmiths and wheelwrights, a builder –stone mason, hotel keeper, butcher, store keeper, saddler and banker. Today Sedan has few of those services. The map for the self guided walk around Sedan uses the 1883 town survey map. A local Truro contractor Mr. Teasdale-Smith constructed the Cambrai-Sedan railway in 1919. The arrival of the first train was cause for great celebration. The line closed in 1964. One of the more unusual local industries was the production of lime. Between 1890 and 1930 lime kilns out of the town burnt crushed limestone and heated it until it flaked into lime powder. Wool Bay on York Peninsula also had lime kilns like those at Sedan. Electricity reached Sedan in 1956; and reticulated water came in 1968.
As noted above many of the early settlers were of German descent and during World War I all German names were changed by law. Rhine Villa became Cambrai, and the North and South Rhine rivers became the Somme and the Marne. All of these names were from WWI battles. During The Battle of the Somme, 1 July 1916, the British suffered 57,470 casualties, including 19,240 dead. It was the bloodiest day in the history of the British Army yet despite terrible casualties it was a strategic success in the short term for the Allies against the Germans, as it halted the German advance. The Battle of the Marne, 1914, was a clearer victory for the Allies against the Germans. The Battle of Cambrai in 1917 allowed the British to open up the German lines but not for long. The battle was a stalemate like so many World War One battles. A second Battle of Cambrai in 1918 was a victory for the allies.
From playing around with the new Repair Lift, 30229. See my review here: www.dagsbricks.com/2014/06/set-review-repair-lift-30229.html
My second try at editing a Brenizer technique image. Shot with the Canon EF100 f/2.0 wide open on a 5DII. This was shot as 18 images but due to some errors I was getting, I removed every other image and was still able to stitch it all together. The fence has some alignment issues and there are some shading errors in the sky along with some blown highlights. Still, this was a fun project and I will certainly try it again.
Alright, after weeks of no upload I come up with this... uh.. A rather mediocre picture of studs.
What, studs? Not just any studs... some sort of discussion on another pic got me thinking about
ways to make water in my future MOCs. I was thinking of using something similar to this
(the picture sucks pretty much so it doesn't look so good here, but it has been used in
this 'Last March of the Ents' MOC and some others I've seen) and I started to wonder whether
I should even think of using something like this at all, or perhaps move to something else...
This way of making water would be using lots of loose transparent studs, and maybe
cheese slopes as well. For Helm's Deep, I wanted to use either one of these:
a) just trans clear studs etc. or b) trans clear studs mixed with trans lt. blue.
So I wanted to know if you guys thought of this as a good idea,
or if I should start thinking of something else... this would otherwise also be used for water
and it would look better with some layers of blue colors under it, I suppose.
If you've got a suggestion or an idea for water, feel free to post something... I could go for
something like this in Helm's Deep,
and use the "Derfel Cadarn water" for other things, so to call it.
And yes, that is, or rather was, a Rohirrim...
NOTE: Osgiliath is still being made as of now. Planning to do a preview shot soon,
and I want to start some photography improvements in a bit before I post new MOCs of mine...
Has it been over a year since I last publicly posted an actual MOC, other than figures?!
Just one of the speakers tonight
A portrait done for issue 5 of Pomp & Circumstance using only a razor and the ads within the magazine.
Here is a new set of LEGO ideas and techniques, made with LDD
I'm sure you'll find a use to this idea
I tried to make the explanation readable thanks to the colors as if we had a tutorial
Do not forget to watch the album with all the right techniques on your right =>
Find all my creations on Flickr group « News LEGO Techniques ».
This Flickr group includes:
- Ideas for new LEGO pieces
- Techniques for assembling bricks
- Tutorials for making accessories, objects, etc.
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Copyright : Philippe Clabots (#PhilippeCPhoto)
Facebook Page : www.facebook.com/PhilippeCPhotographie
Web Site : photos.philippec.be/
This work by #PhilipppeCPhoto (Philippe Clabots) is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at photos.philippec.be/.
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Found what I 'think' is a new technique. The black petals under the large flower uses 4 throwbot visors.
This photo + the traction engines was created by what i think is a technique which i think i have discovered.I have seen no other explanation as to how i have done this.It is done in Adobe ACR and takes seconds to create.On some Photo's,especially where there are people it creates a psuedo 3d HDR effect.
I'm not sure if anyone has come up with this technique for building square-lattice walls, but here's what I came up with while I was building the diorama.
You need:
2x r.brown cone
x amount of r.brown cylinders (depends on length of fibre-optics cable)
fibre-optics cable
r.brown headlight brick
green weed-ey plant stem things (any number)
I think the picture explains what you gotta do, and I can't be bothered to qrite up instructions.
I just thought this would be a cheaper way of making palm tree ;)
Playing around with double balls in a socket. www.dagsbricks.com/2014/11/lego-techniques-double-jointed...
Technique: "Monochrome" effect in photography is a term generally used to describe a photograph in one color or shades of one color. Monochromatic light is light of a single wavelength, though in practice it can refer to light of a narrow wavelength range. A monochromatic object or image is one whose range of colors consists of shades of a single color or hue; monochrome images in neutral colors are also known as grayscale or black-and-white.
Last Sunday my friend Bianca came over for a stamping together party. And this is my result
I first sponged the background with several distress inks. Stamped the music background with crushed olive distress ink. Stamped the leave with versamagic sahara sand and clear embossed. Heated the embossed imaage again and added salt and heated it again so that the salt is melted in the embossing powder.
Stamps used all Hero Arts:
Music Background CG222
Real Leaves LL684
Quill Sentiments LL127
Antique Engravings CL383
The trouble with kissing gates is that you get forced through one narrow section which is either extremely muddy, extremely icy or both, as in this case!
Technique: Copy/paste original photo to a new layer, desaturate 100%. Use curves to increase contrast. Paste original again, posterize at a level of 4-8 or so, gaussian blur to blend colors (level was 6 on this photo), and do a hard light blend.
See the new and improved version here.
Athens, West Virginia
Techniques for a spoon and a cake with serving tray. On the right, the spoon is actually a broken robot claw from a series 3 Space Villain. One of the sides snapped off, so I figured it'd work well as a utensil.
On the left is a self-explanatory cake with the gladiator shield as a tray. :)
The Witches Tower build techniques. When I make these large builds I usually try to come up with a technique I haven’t seen before or try something I haven’t done before. It helps make these projects more interesting to build and makes bulk ordering parts a lot simpler.
This build I wanted to try messing around with flex tube to get the correct spacing I wanted for the bricks. I did try mixel ball joints and hinges but I quickly realised the price would get expensive quick. Flex tube just ended up being the simpler option and gave me a lot of options to attach things to.
The technique I use for the framing in the rock has been used in all my show displays. It is the best solution I have come up with to help make elevated terrain. It is very strong and light for transport. Its also quick to build and easy to change if need be.
Illustrating the micro-motor-direct-to-steering-technique.
The 3L technic liftarm grips firmly onto the motor's stud.
Playing with some new found filters I dragged up this old shot from a shoot I did for The Vintage Clothing company a couple of yrs ago. I didn't think it worked that well until I came across this effect:
www.flickr.com/groups/technique/discuss/72157601062925085...
A soldier with the Lithuanian Armed Forces briefs soldiers from the Ukrainian Land Forces Nov. 24, 2015 during the initial military training as part of Fearless Guardian II at the International Peacekeeping and Security Center near Yavoriv, Ukraine. The Ukrainian Land Forces will receive infantry-based, defensive-focused training at the individual and collective levels including medical training in combat lifesaver and casualty evacuation. (U.S. Army photo by Capt. Russell M. Gordon, 10th Press Camp Headquarters)
Introduced by me to the build community in 2002 as part of my Union Station model.
Please see other pictures in this album to see how it was used in a building model.