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Simple gearing, but I can run all the points of articulation from a distance now! Well, except for the mouth. That's going to be a problem for another day.
Tom's Torso is coming together, at least from the back. It has a bit more of a round shape than the old version, but is otherwise pretty close to an identical build.
InMoov West's Left hand/arm.
Here are the components nearly complete.
Needed: Horns attached to servos, ligaments attached to horns, fingertips attached to fingers, screws to hold wrist, cover and cap together....
I've added an output gear to the shaft. The gear simply slips on the shaft. The tension on the nut ensures that the gear rotates with the shaft.
I designed this laser cut kit of parts for assembling a scotch yoke, a mechanism for converting rotational motion into linear motion. I'm using it to control a physical camera based on the position of a virtual camera in an After Effects animation to achieve a match move. Full write-up here: www.urbanhonking.com/ideasfordozens/2010/09/matching_came...
At a busy urban crossroads, a once-illuminated sign on top of a tall pole reads "Andy's Servo" in lower-case letters. Another metal sign with its back to us has an old graffiti tag on it.
Anderson and Glengala Roads, Sunshine West, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
For those not familiar with Aussie slanguage, "servo" is a service station (petrol station in Britan, or gas station in the US).
For those familiar with service stations, petrol stations and gas stations, this may not be what you'd expected - it wasn't what I expected, but then this is Cape Tribulation in Far North Queensland in 1988 and I was a pom. Strictly cash only.
Adding a #4 machine screw to the output gear is a good idea if the load on the servo could strip the plastic threads of the output gear.
To put this screw in place I had to drill out the output gear twice. First I drilled right through to allow the screw to fit. Then I drilled the bottom a bit wider to accomodate the screw head. Be careful not to drill farther than necessary with this latter operation.
There's really nothing holding the screw in place at this point but it doesn't slip easily either.
Not only did I trim the knob flush with the collar, I cut a little slot across both the collar and knob. This is to help the epoxy lock the pot's shaft in place. Ideally this slot make a straight line when the pot is in the centered position. That's why we made the effort to line it up before trimming it.
I used a dremel rotary tool with a cutting wheel to trim off the knob then make this slot.
[Actually using superglue instead of epoxy is recommended on these plastic parts. And the slot is pretty much unnecessary in that case.]
The tiller is made from a scrap piece of 1.5mm carbon fiber plate cut to shape, glued with epoxy to a collar (www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__15578__Alloy_Collar_B...). To prevent the carbon fiber piece from swinging, its cut in a square shape, slighty smaller than the collar. I used a dremel to cut a pair of slots on the collar, so that the square fits tightly around the circle. Epoxy and voilá, you have a fully removable tiller.
The pushrod is made from 0.5mm inox wire, reinforced with a carbon fiber tube (ID=1mm, OD=2mm), which is glued in place with a small amount of CA. This setup is very light and strong!
IMG_3480
Now that the servos pulses happen one at a time, they can all be multiplexed onto a single radio signal, one after the other. The large gap allows the receiver to "sync" to the pulse chain. It waits for a big gap, then expects a signal pulse for servo0, then a pulse for servo1, and etc, till it's time for the next gap. The actual mechanism for "gap" and "signal pulse" will vary depending on the type of radio.
The case opens when four long screws are removed via the bottom. The gears are greased and we would like to keep them that way throughout the procedure. At this point we get our first view of some key elements: the feedback potentiometer and the mechanical stop on the output gear.
I'm not totally sold on the name, but I need to call it something for Gallery Night...
See more: rasterweb.net/raster/2012/04/17/spring-gallery-night-2012/
Now it's time to set the potentiometer in its centered position permanently. Here I'm positioning it with a screwdriver. The procedure is just like before: connect the servo to a receiver and turn on the transmitter with the stick in a neutral position. Then turn the potentiometer until you find the spot where the motor stops spinning. Now we want to glue the knob in place.
Seeeduino Arduino Compatible Board.
Battery socket and corners removed to fit housing.
www.rocketnumbernine.com/2009/03/07/first-arduino-project...
An idea for a servo skull. Still needs some work.
Not strictly a character from the Gaunt's Ghosts series - although some are mentioned in Sabbat Martyr.
I'm currently engaged in an extremely nerdy project to make Lego models of the Tanith First and Only from Dan Abnett's Gaunt's Ghosts series. Yeah, this is gonna end well ;)