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This is a testing implementation of a DMX servo control board by Milford Instruments.
The servo is a standard RC-type servo bought at a hobby shop. (A Futaba S3004)
In this test I send a DMX data from my computer (via an Entec Open DMX adapter) the servo control board. Which then positions the servo based on the value of a single DMX channel.
I demonstrate both range settings on the control board. It can turn the servo over 90 or 180 degrees of motion.
The end product will be a home-brew DMX-controlled projector dowser.
We're working on a setup to take professional looking (we are professional after all) product photos.
Here's where were at at the moment.
Any thoughts on how to improve them we'd love to hear, we're taking a bit of a trial and error approach at the moment.
My first test with the pan-tilt servo unit.
Next up is finding a way to power and control a small fan attached to the end of it and finding a way to control a minimum of 5, but preferably X, more from one Arduino, I've found some links that look promising.
At this point we want to find the center position of the feedback pot. We turn on the transmitter and receiver, connect the servo to the receiver and watch the servo's motor spin. The transmitter is in a neutral position so the motor will stop when the potentiometer is in the center of its range.
Thank you for your visit and feedback :)
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© Despite being ameteurish, all my photographs are exclusively copyrighted to me. You are encouraged to share it to your heart's content, if you like it of course. I'd only request you to provide attribution to me by my name. I hope it is not too much to ask for ... :)
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I'm starting to think about how to control this monster. I ordered some servos from TowerHobbies.com. I expect the microcontroller, which will drive the servos, early next week.
Small servo driver board for animatronics using Arduino and an Adafruit XBee adapter. Full tutorial here:
www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-animatronics-make-your-a...
After a little quality time with the dremel tool, the part of the pot that engaged the output gear is gone.
I've now put epoxy around the potentiometer's shaft to lock it in place. I've heard super glues work well for this too. Hopefully that slot we cut in the pot shaft and collar are helping fix it in place. Be careful not to let the pot's shaft turn while gluing it in place.