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After a year long partnership with Friday Night Live and the Department of Problem Gambling, the Teen Producers from the Advanced Teen Producers Project traveled to Disneyland in Anaheim to attend a 3 day long festival spotlighting the 21 participating sites and their video projects.

 

We drove up on Monday and drove right into the festival activities. Our students presented a workshop to teach fellow attendees about production roles and why they are important on a video shoot. We then went back to our rooms and changed for the Spotlight Festival red carpet event where student projects were premiered in front of an audience of over 200 fellow students filmmakers from across California. Awards were presented to the standout projects and everyone enjoyed a delicious catered dinner and desert. We then had a little time to explore downtown Disney before heading to bed.

The problem with playing Just Dance on Talking Real is that Twitch then flags the audio as copyright protected and mutes a huge section of the show's playback. This then in turn ends up with YouTube muting the entire show when you attempt to export it.

Step 4 - last in the how to change a light bulb sequence - and it looks like a Surface tablet!

When it comes to breastfeeding, people don’t talk enough about how demotivating can some problems can be. Blocked ducts, soreness, cracked nipples and of course, the one enemy; engorgement – and the list continues. For some mothers, these things can be.

 

Read More - relacto.com.sg/blog/3-effective-ways-to-treat-breast-engo...

 

Instructor. Richard Wilde

1. The resin coating/sealing for the "Death in the Park" snow globe (left) is not curing properly.

 

2. (Center) I was not happy with the lack of legibility of the sign in the "Bloomlight/Displacement" globe (water distorts it!), so I popped it open, replaced the HO scale hobo with a O scale one, and affixed him in such a manner that (hopefully) it will be readable once I seal and fill. I also took the added measure of adding another smallish coat of resin.

 

3. The Expulsion of the Fairies (right) globe (dome) formed two hairline cracks. Guessing that eventually these would cause a leak I opened it up. I am glad I did: fluid had managed to seep through the resin coat. Thus before I seal it up in a(nother) globe I am going to have to let it dry out thoroughly and coat it with (MORE) resin.

Ahmed is a friend of mine with a serious problem. His disease is getting worst day by day and now he is significantly impaired also in simple movement like walking. Last year he has done both plain films than MRI evaluation to assess the stage of his coxarthrosis and his disease is so advanced that surgery is mandatory, as soon as possible. After several months of research we found a young researcher at Sapienza that introduced us to an outstanding surgeon with a great experience in hip surgery. Finally Ahmed found a solution for his problem but now he needs a lot of money for the surgery. He has to be treated in a private clinic because his condition is really serious and this is a one-shot surgery. In public hospital the type of prosthesis used is tailored for elderly people, but he is young and “normal” prosthesis are not good enough. Moreover he can be treated only one time because of post-surgery changes, bone shortage (due to his dwarfism) and other medical problems to technical to be discussed here, and so there is no chance for a re-intervention if something goes wrong or to replace the prosthesis in a second time when the prosthesis itself will need a replacement. He is a smart guy, kind, and involved in social activities as well as in media and learning activities. I cannot describe him in just few words, but I know him from a while and he is really a great guy and he deserves this chance to live a normal life. If you can, please help him with a coffee, a coke, a beer or whatever you want. If you cannot, please share his page trough you social world helping him reaching as many people as possible. Thanks a lot for your support! ahmedbarkhia.net/

 

... water damage. There's a leak coming in from the ventilation pipe that runs across the width of the room. One small join that wasn't finished properly has been slowly letting water-condensation drip into the drywall.

problem with the screen pixel when phone rings

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La notte dei fuffi viventi, in diurna

sportEX medicine 2012;51(January):7-13

Photos Uploaded here are for ASVM (African Violet Society of Minnesota) and Twin Cities Gesneriads to use on their web page. Anyone else, please ask for my permission first.

 

ASVM:

sites.google.com/site/avsminnesota/

Twin Cities Gesneriads:

twincitiesgesneriads.blogspot.com/

Too many kids and not enough mom. 5 Rivers

Both wanted a swing at the same time, problem solved.

Cracked valley gutter and old repairs using flashband

doing homework on the wall? Streetscene in italy.

Children normal behaviors depend on various natural and environmental circumstances in which a child grow and observes the way for his best possible conduct within his reach and interact amongst those who respond his gestures and body talks.

 

Solves the problem of rain falling outside the door.

 

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In downtown Hastings, Michigan, on October 11th, 2014, in an alley connecting North Church Street and North Jefferson Street, between West Apple Street and West State Street.

 

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Library of Congress classification ideas:

NA8348 Garages—Pictorial works.

TH4960 Garage doors—Pictorial works.

NA3008 Canopies, Architectural—Pictorial works.

NA3010 Doors—Pictorial works.

NA6212 Commercial buildings—United States—Pictorial works.

NA4125 Concrete construction—United States—Pictorial works.

TH1491 Concrete masonry—Pictorial works.

NA9053.S7 Alleys—United States—Pictorial works.

QC495.2 White—Pictorial works.

TH2493 Roof drainage—Pictorial works.

F574.H36 Hastings (Mich.)—Pictorial works.

 

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Art & Architecture Thesaurus terms:

damage

downspouts

Når man lige har betalt 10 kr. for et Anthon Berg-marcipanbrød, er det ikke i orden, at det sætter sig fast i maskinen, og man først kan få det næste dag.

Some doors were locked, so some people broke through the door - Einige Türen waren und sind verschlossen, so suchten manche eine andere Möglichkeit des Durchkommens

I need help on this one. Several pictures I took this morning came out with this glare over his head. Some of the other pictures looked like a halo, the shape was very inconsistent. I have a UV lens protector on the lens. For these particular pictures I used the flash as a fill-in to eliminate shadows. I'm wondering if the flash conflicted with the lens filter? If so, how do I use a flash without taking the lens off a lot. Thanks for any suggestions.

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Prendendo l'uscita Pizzo (VV) dall'autostrada A3 e dirigendosi appunto verso Pizzo, si è costretti a passare sotto una delle arcate di questo ponte dal quale si sono staccati, tempo fa, dei pericolosi calcinacci. Per risolvere il problema hanno ben pensato di mettere delle reti protettive anzichè "riparare" definitivamente il problema.

 

Ancora una volta BEN FATTO! (ironico!!!!)

 

Complimenti...

ARNOLD, Vladimir Igorevich. Arnold's problems. [Zadachi Arnolda (Russo)]. Nova York: Springer, 2005. xiv, 639 p. il.; 24cm. ISBN 3540207481.

 

Palavras-chave:

MATEMATICA/Problemas e exercícios; ANALISE MATEMATICA.

Notes from my 24-year-old self

This is how an LCD should not look!

Bad weather is here again and the car has been sitting since just before Christmas. So I figured it to be as good a time as any to fix something that was really irking the crap out of me…the sun visors.

All of the 79-85 Eldorado’s with light up mirrors (which most had) unfortunately have a problem with visorus saginitus. The visor is held up by a small winged plastic bushing-it wraps around the chrome visor arm, and locks into the plastic visor body with the winged part. This little plastic thing gets brittle over time and starts to crack, losing its grip on the stationary rod. This starts as an issue where they droop a little bit when the car has been sitting in the sun on a summers day but eventually gets bad enough that it happens at all temperatures and will just flop down with bumps in the road.

To my knowledge there’s no replacements for this winged bushing and even if there were I don’t know how you would go about replacing it with the way it’s installed on the visor arm. GM evidently saw the problem as the arm and bushing were revised in 1984 to be bigger but evidently to no avail-the passenger visor on my car sagged from the time I had bought the car and I had held it in place with a nail wedged into the metal trim surrounding the window that had to be removed when you wanted to use it…this didn’t compute with the fairer sex, so it’s safe to say eventually I’m going to find all of those finishing nails that have gone missing over the past couple of years the hard way…

My driver’s side visor was free of this problem but I just didn’t use it as I was afraid it would start doing the same thing. So I set to work finding a real fix

These popped up for sale on ebay, red visors from an ’87 DeVille. They looked like a winner, same general shape, same color and in good condition. After a couple of messages to get an idea on size, I ordered them. However, when they arrived, they were neither the bright red shown in the pictures, nor in as good of repair. They definitely needed to be reupholstered to be used. I gave them a dry run before wasting any more money, and they had a couple of other issues. The first was a different electrical connector which was no biggie. The second was much bigger, that they could only be used to block sun going forward. Trying to move it to the side caused them to either drop or raise at a 45 degree angle.

I figured this was caused by the design of the mount which is heavily angled. So there wasn’t much I could do about it. Until my ebay suggestions came up with visors from a Buick Reatta for sale-the same general style as the DeVille, but with a flat type of mount similar to the OEM Eldorado!

Now the guy wanted over 100 dollars for these and after my blunder with the DeVille visors I wasn’t about to sink that type of change in a maybe. So I headed over to the Reatta AACA message board to see if anyone had a dogged set of visors with good mounts that they wanted to sell, and the first post in the for sale section happened to be by a fella who was parting out a complete Reatta! Score!

I emailed the guy and he explained that the car was in a junkyard local to his house. A real gentleman, he was able to get the visor arms for free and didn’t even charge me the ride up from Florida. Thanks Mike! The car in question had a burgundy interior so the arms would need to be sprayed dark carmine to work for me. After cleaning and priming, SEM aerosol made quick work of that.

Unfortunately when they were removed from the Reatta, this condom thing that wraps around a metal bushing shredded, but I was able to basically replicate it with heat shrink tubing

The arms are easily removed from the visors when uninstalled from the car. Simply rotate the arm into the mirror side of the visor (as if you were pushing the visor back up into the roof) until it clicks and then yank it out. Install it into the new visor in the same position. I did some tests for proof of concept and when it seemed like I was on the right track, I got to work. Or at least to spending money. I ordered carmine foam-backed headliner material (Sunbrite 1872 for those interested, it was a great match) and headliner adhesive (which I ended up not needing for this job)

The visors themselves are like a clamshell and probably harder to crack open than a turnip. After enough brute force, a hammer, and a screwdriver, I was able to get them open (see the color difference as compared to the ebay picture above)

The material around the visor ended up not being glued to the face of it, only tucked tight and hot glued from the factory. I decided to do the same thing (So I have to write off the spray adhesive until I do a new headliner). I carefully removed the old fabric and made a template out of the new material

(should anyone do this in the future, it’s much more simple and less risky to only cut the general shape of the template out, you can cut the hole for the mirror and sun shade later)

The visors themselves also needed some help. The “ears” at the ends were super fatigued and loose, so I mixed up some resin and fiberglass to shore them up.

Once the visor bodies were sound, I had to come up with a way of re-joining the clamshell. I have no idea how GM did this in the first place but super glue doesn’t work. After a lot of searching I found out that these are likely made of Polyethylene. I bought this 3M DP8005 adhesive which claimed to bond it and tested it on a junk visor-seemed to do the trick. You need a special mixing tip in addition to this and I also had to get a gun that it fits into.

With that solved, I started hot gluing the material onto the visors. I had never done anything with headliner material before aside from stapling them up when they started sagging and I was really surprised with how compliant it was. In that, it basically looked factory with no runs or wrinkles despite not having a clue what I was doing.

Then, I bonded the two halves back together. Each one had to sit like this for a day, and early signs seem like it worked. Hopefully the adhesive will hold, time and temperature will tell.

Here’s a comparison of the original visors with the DeVille replacements. Mirrors swapped without issue. I also had to swap the power connector, meaning I had to cut the crimped on connector at the mirror end from the old visors and install in the new ones. Delphi 12020347 is the connector part, there’s no room inside the assembly for a butt connector (and I hate using them unless I have to)

And here they are installed!

The only complication on the install is that the plastic visor arms bolt in a slightly smaller bolt pattern than the originals. You can take any 2 of the 3 holes but not all 3 at once. Fortunately there’s plenty of meat to drill into to make another hole.

I’m sure a lot of people are reading this right now and saying I should have just stuck with the nail but in reality it wasn’t that bad. It might seem like a mess but everything above is a “worse possible scenario” in that I got fleeced on the visors I bought and had to change color, structurally repair them, rehab the Reatta visor arms, then bond them back together. If you’re fortunate enough to have a 79-85 E body with an interior color the same as an 85-88 Deville, and can get the visors from it, the only thing you need do is get a set of Reatta visor arms and swap them out (and obviously your electrical connector from your 79-85). They’re really close in size as far as fit, and look factory with the exception of the sunshade. You could delete that when reupholstering, but I always liked them.

It seems like GM changed all their lighted visor designs to basically the same thing in the late 80’s downsized cars. So there might very well be more vehicles than just Reattas that have the flat plastic visor arm. As far as longevity, I’ll definitely keep everyone posted but I will say that I’ve never really seen any of the “newer” Cadillacs or Buicks experiencing visor problems. The whole metal bushing with condom setup also feels much more sturdy then the OEM 79-85 stuff.

Oh, and on the bright side, I’ll only have to wear these puppies at night now.

  

We had some problems to get the WOF for our car, so I had to bring it several times to a friend of ours who was so kind to take some time and fixed what had to be fixed to get it legally back on the road. That was always the same... bring the car to him, go back home by bus... on one of my ways to the bus station I came along that garage where I had the chance to take some pictures of total regular Auckland cars. :)

The owner is a really nice guy btw.

You think that elastic band tightened with bailing wire pressing the shift cable to the frame might be the culprit?

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