View allAll Photos Tagged microcontroller
XGS AVR 8-Bit demoing high color "Apple ][" graphics mode. This mode is low resolution, high color just like the Apple ][.
See product page at:
I bought Canon's remote switch (RS-60E3) last year, but it's lost. For shooting July 4th fireworks, I need a remote release switch. Instead of buying the same stuff again, I decided to build one by myself.
The design is simple for now. It has just 2 buttons, 1 toggle switch, and a 2.5mm jack.
I left some extra space in the case. This is for microcontrollers that I'm planning to install for time-lapse shooting. Right now, I just don't have enough time to do this :-(
Vintage Motorola MC68705 8-bit microcontroller.
Confusing the on-chip A/D converter with a flashlight.
This light sensitivity is not intended. Many ICs would react to light
and thus they are encapsulated in black plastic.
The uC even gets stuck by erratic currents caused by the flashlight
and needs a reset.
It is vintage NMOS technology, it draws 100mA
supply current for doing nothing! (power-saving CMOS
technology already existed these times,
but it could not reach the MHz speed range yet).
Continued from the other day, some of the initial circuit has changed, and now includes a built-in sound trigger. Except that the sound triggering is giving me fits... that part of the circuit is analog, and the logic, of course, is digital. Apparently, the microcontroller and I have differing views of what "rising edge" means, and the trigger causes the flash interrupt well before it's supposed to. So far, I've not been able to work it out.
I'm sure I will, though. The problem is probably in my code, with a second choice being the analog interface into the digital logic section. Anyway, this is the most complicated circuit/microcontroller code project I've ever worked on, and I've had surprisingly few issues with it, so far...
Anyway, since I don't have the photos I was building this to help capture, here's a description of what it does, when I think about it, blissfully absent from the hard reality... notes above describe the various parts.
Prefocus and compose the shot on the unsuspecting firework. Turn on the device, wait for the "ready" indicator light. Push the little yellow button. The shutter interface opens the shutter in bulb mode. Half a second later, the igniter circuit activates, cranking 4 amps through the rocket motor igniter. Since 2 amps should "guarantee" ignition, that should be good. Once the igniter circuit goes hot, the sound trigger starts listening for the boom. When it hears the boom, it signals the microcontroller to cut power to the igniter, pop the flash, and close the shutter on the camera. Then it recycles, waiting for the next one. Except, of course, it doesn't... it doesn't do that, at all.
Unfortunately, I've already begun to get distracted... it occurred to me today that I could probably make a cheap-o 16-24 channel logic analyzer with an Atmega16. That's very appealing to me, because sometimes an analog scope isn't enough. It's painful to work out chip-to-chip communications with a 2-channel scope. I may switch over and work on that for the rest of the night. Of course, I'll have to implement a USB interface, and write a Windows app to actually use it, so there's like a zero percent chance I'll have it done this weekend. Which means that by next weekend, I'll be on to something else...
update!!! Live fire trial run tomorrow!!! Fixed both known issues (both were code - one was a misread register name, the other was a lack of understanding of how code optimization can jeopardize variables)!!!
An Atmel microcontroller, the ATmega8, on a little protoyping module, plugged into a solderless breadboard. This is the controller that I've been using for a number of small projects, including a persistence-of-vision wand and an LED dot-matrix display. The CPU runs at 16MHz and is programmed in either assembler or C.
I built a PC Meter which display CPU and Memory usage for an attached computer. It's driven by an Arduino microcontroller, which is fed the stats by a C#.Net application I developed. More information, source code, and a video demonstration can be found on the project web page here:
Arduino UNO does PWM (pulse width modulation) – 16mm scale.
This test board has a UNO configured to provide 6 PWM servo outputs as a microcontroller for points (turnouts) and/or signals on my 16mm scale narrow gauge exhibit. Two vero strip boards incorporate the required crossovers to provide Futaba/Hitec/etc format servo pinouts on the UNO’s digital output sockets.
Each of the UNO’s analogue inputs is held at intermediate potential by a pair of 1 Kohm resistors. The remote commander has a 20 foot wander lead and its four momentary push buttons short out one or other 1 Kohm resistor to take the analogue input to LOW or HIGH potential as a tri-state switch. The UNO picks up the change in potential and moves the corresponding servo through the number of degrees pre-programmed in the sketch, via the selected PWM output.
This basic setup will enable the option of automated signal and point control on the 16mm scale exhibition layout by linking the UNO's analogue inputs to other sensors.
Computer controlled shutter for the Automatic 100 series packfilm cameras with manual exposure control. See www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/shutterpic/index.html
Arduino UNO does PWM (pulse width modulation) – 16mm scale.
This test board has a UNO configured to provide 6 PWM servo outputs as a microcontroller for points (turnouts) and/or signals on my 16mm scale narrow gauge exhibit. Two vero strip boards incorporate the required crossovers to provide Futaba/Hitec/etc format servo pinouts on the UNO’s digital output sockets.
Each of the UNO’s analogue inputs is held at intermediate potential by a pair of 1 Kohm resistors. The remote commander has a 20 foot wander lead and its four momentary push buttons short out one or other 1 Kohm resistor to take the analogue input to LOW or HIGH potential as a tri-state switch. The UNO picks up the change in potential and moves the corresponding servo through the number of degrees pre-programmed in the sketch, via the selected PWM output.
This basic setup will enable the option of automated signal and point control on the 16mm scale exhibition layout by linking the UNO's analogue inputs to other sensors.
2 drop collision into Xanthan gum mix, blue ink and a little Dettol kitchen cleaner.
The blue/green in the rise is from gels on the 2 flashes behind the glass.
100% uncropped and unedited.
2:1 using Canon 7D and 100mm f/2.8L macro with 68mm of extension tubes (full kenko set).
“Claremont Road” has five Arduino UNO microcontrollers which control train movements, along with PWM (servo adapted) points/turnouts, and signals according to pre-written programs or “sketches”. This is a completely different concept from DCC.
The master co-ordinating UNO gets feedback from the track through 14 enbedded infra-red proximity detectors,
Slaves 1-3 are UNO “train drivers”,
Slave 4 handles the display and lights. The orange display shows the current mode and commands being passed between the UNOs via a short-wire protocol known as I2C.
This is a microcontroller-powered temperature controller for a fridge I built out of fabricated necessity and spare parts last weekend.
Backstory: We replaced our ancient 2nd fridge with a big new upright freezer, which left our little chest freezer empty. Sometimes we do need the extra fridge space though during harvest season at the farm, so I figured I could just turn the temperature up on that old chest freezer and turn it into a fridge. Nope. Highest it goes is -4C. OK. Time for some gratuitous technology. See the notes.
Using a pair of XBees to send packets back and forth between my laptop and an ARM microcontroller while a logic analyzer keeps tabs on the process.
Photo taken to accompany short article on working with AVR microcontrollers, and making minimalist target boards for programming them.
In the past the setup of this laser signal was always a pain. This adjustement need to be very exactly to have the max reflected signal on the microcontroller. Now the new setup make this adjustements simply. I can finetune the laser into all direction, first very coarse and then very precise into the X and Y direction. As you can see there are a lot of small parts. But this new setup give me the assurance to have always the max detection signal. This cost me 5 days of heavy works to make all this very small parts! once for the left side and once for the right side. The IR laser works at 840 nm and is pulsed 20us on and 20us off. The difference between the ambient light and the IR laserlight is processed into the AVR controller ATtiny45 into a separeted macro lens the AF60/2.8Dmicro from Nikkor. The information go to the central CPLD controller to make the decision to take a photo in focus.
I've assembled a few of the new boards so far - it's been a while, I'm a little out of practice, but these are looking good after some minor rework.
The other boards are waiting for now, I didn't notice that I was missing a part for the main quad pcb (the expensive gyro, I apparently only ordered a small qty and used them all in other boards)
A state-of-the-80s bootloader programmer for the Motorola 68705 microcontroller.
The uC (left) feeds itself with the content of an EPROM (right)
Fun to build this in 2010.
Programming runs with 20 Bytes per second, so it takes three minutes
to toast the wafer.
Homemade using an Addressable RGB LED Light Strip and Microcontroller Board
See my YouTube video showing all of my current Light Painting Tools and how they work.
www.youtube.com/user/michaelrross1
You can find get to the detailed tutorial information and videos to make this tool yourself on my personal website under the new Tutorial Blog at:
Driving a stepper motor that was salvaged from an old Epson ink-jet printer with an Allegro A3982 chip. It's basically the same design as the MIT Machines That Make driver PCB: makeyourbot.org/a3982-1-0
For no other reason but that I could, since I had parts to spare, rather than the traditional headers that allow you to connect or disconnect things together which typically end up to be a rather tall stack, because this ESP32-S3 board has a pinout on one side that matched perfectly with generic TFT display pinouts, I decided to hard solder together the display (the bottom board) to the ESP32-32 (top board with USB-C connector) and then on the other side I added a 12 pin header soldered directly to the 9 pins of the ESP32-S2 leaving one pin extended on one side (which is the one you can see on this side in picture) which I connected 3.3V and 2 pins extended on the other side both of which are connected to GND. So I have a nice 9-bit connector on that side with 3.3V and a couple GNDs.
PACK, Daniel J.; BARRETT, Steven Frank. Microcontroller Theory and Applications: HC12 and S12. 2 ed. Upper Saddle River: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2008. xiv, 631 p. ISBN 0136152058. Inclui bibliografia e índice; il. tab. quad.; 24x16cm.
Palavras-chave: MICROPROCESSADORES; MICROELETRONICA.
CDU 621.3.049.77 / P119m / 2 ed. / 2008
Using Digispark ATTINY85 USB board, programmed Zoom Mute and Video toggle keystrokes to the buttons (guitar pedal switches).
Photo taken to accompany short article on working with AVR microcontrollers, and making minimalist target boards for programming them.
A small project I did, using a Playstation 2 controller and Arduino to control the speed and direction of a bipolar stepper motor.
More information and source code: www.lungstruck.com/projects/ps2-motor-controller/
As the electronics hobbyist one of knowledge that we have to be familiar with is how to make our own printed circuit board (PCB). Making our own simple single side PCB actually is not require a sophisticated technique and technology as you might think, instead most of the required materials is already available at your home. For more information please visit www.ermicro.com/blog/?p=1526