View allAll Photos Tagged microcontroller
Analogue telephones, metallized and thermo-lacquered mild steel, sound system, oscillators driven by microcontroller.
Sculpture made by contemporary artist Joana Vasconcelos.
Serralves Fundation - Porto
Thank you for your visits comments and favs! 😊
A very small part of the incredible Field of Light art installation, by famed artist Bruce Munro. This installation is solar powered, and uses color-shifting LEDs with many km of plastic fiberoptic cables to illuminate the small spheres across the desert terrain.
The optical fibers, seen here, radiate out from a large number of distribution hubs that emit and control the light color and intensity using microcontrollers. The section seen here represents perhaps 10-20% of the total installation.
The complete installation comprises nearly 5 hectares and 50,000 light globes.
For #MacroMondays and this week's theme #M.
Happy Macro Monday!
Thanks for all your faves and comments everyone!
I really appreciate them!
Explored. Aug 23, 2013 #31
Today I fancied something different with drops. I have glass left over from building spider enclosures, so thought I would cut a piece and throw some drops at it.
This is a single 20ms drop of plain cold water with a few drops of blue ink, dropped from a height of 40cm.
Canon 550d, 100mm macro.
2x Yongnuo YN-560II flashes from behind a dismembered indoor macro studio.
★ Photo: Julian Evil www.JulianEvil.com
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Here is my first pic of 2010 :)
Was looking 4 some inspiration and today came.
NO Photoshop!
Milk in Violet water. drops released w a solenoid valve and camera controlled w an arduino microcontroller, flash shot manually.
Mutli flash exposure, (Stroboscopic mode flash) the 3 drops in reality is just one, the same drop of the collision. The same with the collisions itselves.
This gives the idea of what happens in those short times.
C & c Are welcome.
Hope you like.
Strobist:
Canon speedlite 580 Ex II @ 1/64 of power, handheld On the right of the splash
Have any cool project ideas for this microcontroller board?
Shot with Sony 90mm f/2.8 macro lens on Sony a7r iii.
Colors/tones adjusted in Lightroom, then cropped and saved as JPG file in Photoshop.
NOTE: You are under no obligation to fave ( / comment on) this image. If you like (or dislike) this image and/or have something to say about it, I would appreciate it if you could use your own words. Please do not use links / images / GIFs or self / group / website promotions in comments. 🙏
These are 3 drops with different colors. They mixed up to a wonderful color composition. Timing was done by Arduino microcontroller.
1. drop is without color
2. drop is yellow
3. drop is red
I used 3 flashes, timing is done with arduino microcontroller board.
From "Left" [8BP101] • www.8bitpeoples.com [on August 29th, 2009]
Music by minusbaby • www.minusbaby.com
Video by VBLANK • www.waitforvblank.com
From "Cadê o Pescador?" (Audio/Video installation @ Multiplicidade, Rio de Janeiro, Brasil • 2009)
This set is all from 3 chips: each a Parallax 8x32A micro-controller with the signal going out through a raw resistor network controlled live via hacked Nintendo 64 controllers.
Recorded on August 18th, 2009 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA. It was going to be 21 minutes long - the entire length of the EP - but the video recorder burned out while recording that test.
Watch this video on Vimeo. Video created by Richard Alexander Caraballo.
No Photoshop This is done with a flash.
★ Photo: Julian Evil www.JulianEvil.com
Large(It's worth it)-★ PLEASE VOTE IT! ★
A crop of This
2 drops of milk released in water and photographed in stroboscopic mode.(multi exposure with flash)
You can see the drops falling, the same drop colliding the , the collision growing, the same collision landing on the water. All of this is superfast to I like to have all the phases of a drop cillision in one single shot.
Drops and camera controlled w/ Arduino Duemilanove Microcontroller Flash Shot manually.
Hope you like.
C&c Are welcome.
Hope you like.
Strobist:
Canon speedlite 580 Ex II @ 1/64 of power, handheld On the right of the splash
Today I made the setup of the circuit to trigger my camera. The optocoupler of the starter kit did the trick.
And it passed a smoke test.
Marc worked hard on this RFID reader circuit for our Music Hack Day Boston project. Our goal is to create music using the data from RFID cards, a Leaf Labs Maple (an Arduino-like microcontroller), and Max/MSP.
Only cropped, no other post-processing...I was thinking in my bed last night, it's not bad to be bored sometimes...The LED's were playing after a definite program controlled by a microcontroller, it is the choice of the photographer when to push, ha, ha!
Explored. August 24th, 2013. #114
Nah! It's only the shell.
I saw this idea a while back on a webpage and found it cool. This one I did because recently, someone commented one of my shots using cream, joking with me about being told not to play with my food when a child....
I needed something to test using this old flash on.
I was given an old Nikon SB24 from a friend a while back, but it doesn't or hasn't worked for me with clear liquids as it only comes down to 1/16th when I need to be around 1/32 or 1/64. Plus, it was out of sync with my other 2 flashes.
I made a 3 way splitter out of a couple of an xBox 360 phono to scart adapter and a couple of 3.5mm mono plugs to use the Nikon with my other speedlites and my controller, it seems to work really well with them now, not giving off so much power as before. Maybe something to do with my hooking into its pc sync port.? Seems to work OK. No motion blur this time.
-----------------------------------------
Canon 550d, 100mm macro
2 x Yongnuo YN-560II behind the diffuser and the ole Nikon SB24 at the front.
Xanthan gum/water mix with some yellow food dye in both shell and drop.
here somewhere between sharp and unsharp, the details does not matter...The others are max. unsharp, just the light is important...
All integrated circuits, but with very different functions.
PIC16LF877A is a 8-bit microcontroller
MCP6295 is an operational amplifier (OpAmp)
DS1820 is a digital thermometer
BA4558N is another OpAmp
D2634C is a 65,536 bit(!) Read Only Memory, dating back to the early 1980's
For Macro Mondays
Theme: Five
A first try with my new setup which is not already finished. Lighting + reflection could be much better, my point of interest here is the drop generation. I used 3 solenoid valves which can be exactly controlled separately by arduino microcontroller board. So for each valve I can use a different colored fluid (it's only water here with some ink)
The biggest problem is to get the 3 drops into the same flight path. This is really very difficult to handle. I have to work on this to make it more reliable, up to now I need a lot of time, patience + luck to get them exactly on top of each other.
Something new I am trying. :o)
For the setup of this I had a plastic bowl with a soap bubble floating on it and dropped the water using my home-made controller. 2 Yongnuo 460 flashguns behind the tray with coloured gels on them and at the lowest power setting. Nikon D3200 with a 70-200 zoom at about 100mm with a 12mm extension tube. F14. Camera was about 1 meter from the subject. The splash liquid was water with some food colouring.
Basically the shot is done by dropping 2 very carefully timed drops of water from about 40cm above the water in the bowl through the soap film and into the bowl. I use a homemade microcontroller to do this (see my Waterdrop Setup set for some pics of it).
www.flickr.com/photos/65011899@N04/sets/72157630332326342/
The first drop hits the water in the bowl and causes a splashback column of water to rise upward (as seen at the bottom of the shot) the 2nd drop (falling about 120 milliseconds behind the 1st drop) then impacts onto that column (with a bit of luck) causing the splat effect.
I use a laserbeam tripwire I made to detect when the drops fall and trigger the flashguns.
I used almost no post-processing in this. I just used PaintshopPro9 to clone out a few stray out of focus droplets and adjusted the saturation slightly. I was lucky enough to capture the image full-frame so didn't need to do any cropping.
Thanks for all the views and comments. Very much appreciated!
Steve
This was a collab with my son Cameron (TxMini) and R2-Tx
Check out R2-Tx's shot from a different angle on this one! :-)
Light Painting SOOC with possibly some crop or minor levels adjustments. Single Exposure.
trying some macro... attiny microcontroller
with: old beroflex AF 35-70mm lens from an old minolta dynax 3ix cam. as i don't have any adapter on my e-mount, i used some piece of toilette paper roll :).
proceed in darktable
[Explore #68]
★ Photo: Julian Evil www.JulianEvil.com
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Generally I name my Drops w songs, this time is a movie:)
Today Finally connected the Arduino MicroController.
Is really great control everything from a lap entering numbers for the delays, Didn't feel so confortable w the HiViz anlogic trigger.
The first impressions were great :)
Changed slightly my setup too. Had to connect the Whole to my macbook, The camera too. is just great see the photo directly to the computer.
Also today I got the Solenoid Valve and a Vivitar 283(to be modified)
Exited about the new toys, the only thing missing is a real macro lens :D
Plain water into violet water.
Strobist: Canon speedlite 580 ExII From Behind ;-) w a diffuser @1/64 of power.
phottix wireless flash trigger.
Hope You Like.
Thanks 4 looking.
Three drops, the first one red, the second was blue, and the last one for the cap was yellow. Timing was done by Arduino microcontroller.
The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.
[Explored]
I shoot this some time ago and thought it was not good enough to post... well, here it is...
I'm working in a new setup with an electronic water dropper, lasers, new loudspeaker and a USB programmed microcontroller to adjust delays in microseconds, but will take a couple months yet.
- - -
Tirei essa um tempo atrás e achei que não era boa suficiente pra postar... bom aí está...
Estou trabalhando em um novo setup com um conta gotas eletrônico, lasers, novo alto-falante e um microcontrolador programado via USB para ajustar o tempo em microsegundos, mas ainda vai levar uns meses.
Was finally able to get out and play a bit tonight. Testing a few new techiques and patterns with the Digital Light Wand. And with all the talk on the V24 in the LJ group lately, just HAD to throw it in there too! ;-)
Light Painting - Single Exposure
Microcontrollers are considered as good parts in construction of rather complicated systems. I feel myself a Real Expert after making the heart for my lighthouse flashing ... . .--. .--. --- ;-)
Maybe an UNO board costing a few euros night be a good part for my slider - with lots of additional components.
BTW this is a Real Crop (ca. 50% of the original frame).
FYI: No new photos for some days, I suppose:-(
An old microcontroller, quite large by today's standards, but still smaller than a U.S. quarter. For Macro Mondays.
Explored. July 15th 2013. #442
A 3 drop collision of plain water into a glass tray of water with a few drops of blue ink.
This was more fluke than anything else as I was toying around with timings and have no reference to use as a guide.
Taken using the Canon 550d and 100mm f/2.8 macro lens.
Settings:
Shutter: 1/200
Aperture: f/16
ISO: 100
Speedlite: 1/16
TOAST is an acoustic sculptural installation commission by the Perth Public Art Foundation.
With a physical presence designed to contrast the urban soundscape, TOAST offers the enquirer an ‘orchestra of sound’ through individual microcontroller channels.
As a sound-producing kinetic artwork, TOAST consists of 40 identically hand-made mechanisms, each containing a spoon that repeatedly taps a wine glass producing a series of chinking ‘sounds.’
Source: Interpretive panel at the installation.
I just finished my second attempt at a completely open-source camera (the first being Lux, which you can see elsewhere in my photostream). All of the custom parts will be 3D printed (alumide and brass) or laser cut (stainless steel) , and the remaining optical, electrical, or mechanical parts are completely off-the-shelf.
If you follow along with my photostream, you may have noticed that a couple of months ago, I was toying around with using off-the-shelf lenses to make a Cooke Triplet lens. Indeed it worked well enough to consider building a camera around it. To my knowledge, it would be the among the first completely homegrown camera to use neither a pinhole, nor a single element lens, nor a lens salvaged from another camera. Having usable multi-element lenses for DIY projects means potentially faster, sharper, and more versatile cameras without having to rely on a limited supply of old cameras to hack apart or salvage.
That said, I really wanted to build a TLR or a rangefinder using this lens, but all the moving parts and additional complexity would cost more time and dough than I have available. That, and I happened upon a Pen D3 half-frame P&S that I am now really enamored with. So, a 645 point and shoot it is. Kind of in the same vein as a Diana or a Holga. But hopefully better.
With the 65mm triplet lens, we can go from dreamy and soft at f/4.5 to really defined at f/8 or f/22 (I couldn't be bothered to design an iris diaphragm, so 3 waterhouse stops will have to do). The back focus is about 55mm, which would have necessitated a big camera body - instead the whole rectangular front portion pulls out or collapses at will to make it more compact. The shutter is similar to the electromechanical one in Lux, powered by a solenoid but with an additional linkage to make it more compact. Lux hit 1/125s and I think this could do the same, despite the shutter leaf being larger due to the wider aperture.
A new feature is integrated manual and automatic (aperture priority) metering, via a Sharp ambient light sensor. The microcontroller is now more powerful, using an atmega328 instead of attiny85. Shutter speed and film speed is dialed in using a pair of rotary switches, and the metering display is via an RGB LED. Aperture values are reported to the microcontroller with binary coded pins on the waterhouse stop.
Looks wise, I took my inspiration from the Ricoh Auto Half (the non-functional selenium cell-like front panel around the lens), Olympus Pen (curved body profile and loading door), my Laika SW (round tapered VF and loading door closures ), and Diana F+ (winding knob area).
This is definitely the most complex camera I've ever designed - so I'm looking forward to ordering some parts next week or so and starting the grueling process of troubleshooting :)
7-Segment-Anzeige Grove TM1637 mit Microcontroller NodeMCU LoLin V3 ESP8266. Es wird über WiFi eine Verbindung ins Internet aufbebaut und von einem NTP-Server die aktuelle Uhrzeit geholt. Danach zählt der Prozessor selbst weiter und zeigt die Uhrzeit an.
Nachdem es technisch funktioniert hat, habe ich selbst aus Klemmbausteinen ein würfel-förmiges Gehäuse gebaut.
My arsenal continues to grow! (Click on photo to see notes and examples for each tool shown)
SEE! The neighbors ARE right! ;-) I AM weird! ;-)
This is NOT all of the tools I have or use by the way. There are other things such as drawing jigs, the LP Multi-Tool, etc. that I use as well, I just could not fit them all in the shot! :-\ But you can see pretty much all of them in my Light Painting Tools Set.
Each one of these tools has it's use and they all create different types of textures or effects in Light Painting.
In the note tags on the photo, I have added a link to example photos where that tool or type of tool is used in the shot so you can see how the tool looks in a light painting photo.
It is so nice of the city to come in, rip up the streets, and plant some light flowers in the process! ;-)
Sometimes we give ourselves inspiration just by looking at even just a little part of another photo we have taken in the past. Thought about this as soon as I saw the photo that posted previous to this one! Just look at the eyes! ;-)
It took me half the afternoon to program the Arduino to do what I wanted it to do for this shot. But it was worth it! :-) Now, would you have known this was using a programmable device if I had not have said something? ;-)
Light Painting - Single Exposure
Sparks from the secondary coil on a flyback transformer (taken from a computer monitor) passing around and through a water-clear red LED. The flyback transformer's primary is being driven by a microcontroller.
The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.
I used 3 valves, for each valve another color (magenta, green, yellow). In experimenting with the timings, I got this nice shape.
This time the droplet was shot by a water fountain
More drops & setup on my website:
Only 2 drops of water, the first one wituout color, the second one was red colored. Timing done by microcontroller.
Low cost, diy macro setup for high magnification "studio" shots.
A friend built the electronic assembly and did the programming. The rail is an old CD-Rom with a stepper motor allowing around 0.15mm steps. A microcontroller (MC) controls the rail with the help of a (for this application oversized) stepper driver. The remote is used to program the number of photos as well as the step size between each shot. The camera is remote controlled by the MC, so once set up the whole stack is produced automated.
A second set of bellows below the rail helps to adjust the proper height of the subject, the other axes are arranged by simply moving the whole rail construction.
The flash diffusor produces relatively, but not completely, uniform light with the help of a Pringles roll (what else ;) milk box and some plastic cups. See the comments for details. I've enlarged the distance of the lens, diffusor and subject for the documentary shot above. For the actual shots, the insect is inside the cups.
The process is simple:
• Arrange the subject so the initial photo can be taken.
• Make settings to the camera (such as mirror lock up, 1s exposure, rear flash) and the flash.
• Programm the rail and the MC will start:
• Now the clever part! The MC triggers the camera with an IR-LED.
• The MC waits for 2s so the camera can move the mirror, wait, flash, close the mirror.
• The MC makes the appropriate numbers of steps.
• The MC waits for 0.5s to reduce shake.
• The next image is triggered
• And so on.
See the notes in the image for details and the comments for an example shot. Thanks for looking!
I feel like John Denver saying that! ;-) One of my favorite singers by the way... The last time I saw him was on stage in a very small venue in Fort Worth just a few weeks before he died in his plane. :-\ One of my favorite songs of his is Shanghai Breezes. :-) And speaking of that song... I wanted to take a moment to wish a special friend of mine a very Happy Birthday! :-) I hope it was a good one for you! :-)
Another Vortex using the LPD6803 12mm LED Pixels.
Light Painting - Single Exposure