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Z8-based microcontroller, designed by Steve Ciarcia and first explained in Byte magazine (July 1981).

 

archive.org/details/byte-magazine-1981-07

 

userwww.sfsu.edu/hl/c.micromint.html

I changed my reservoir and solenoid set up last night to get a more constant drop from the valve. Tried it out last night and got nowhere as my liquid was too thick. Today I've been on a liquid preparation mission. Lots of slow filtering done giving me plenty of liquid to mess with. Seems like I am getting there with it as this liquid is much clearer than previous attempts. Thinner too.

Never managed to get a triple today of any sort. Looks like I am learning from the begining again with this new setup.

I got this 2 drop collision into xanthan gum mix, some blue ink and a little kitchen cleaner.

Here are some more test images using the LPD8806 Digital Light Wand. This one specifically is a 2-meter, 64 LED strip. I have a higher resolution one in the works and I will also add a diffuser to to it to help eliminate the sharp points of light from the LEDs and help spread the light out a little more.

Dreamcast, PCE, microcontrollers, A500.

Prototype USB Interface for SHARP PC-14xx-Serie

 

You will find more infos about this project on my blog:

manib.bplaced.net/blog/?p=874

Well, that's me all purpled out. Moving on to more colours next session.

This one is a much neater looking shroom than before. Taller and more level.

2 drops into water with a couple of additives. Colours are from red ink in the water bowl and the same in the drop reservoir. There is also a blue gel on the flash which gives the purple colour to the splash.

  

Settings:

Exposure - 1/200sec

F-stop - f/16

ISO speed - 100

Speedlite - 1/32

  

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H-21, D1-50, P1-80, D2-80, CD-189

I ♥ water splashes.

Read more about this project here.

I have just started getting into programming on the Ardunio/Atmel microcontroller platform and one of the projects I’d like to build involves using a 128x64 monochrome LCD module.

 

Enter the Deal Extreme “5V 3.2" LCD12864 Screen Module with Backlit (Yellow & Green Screen/English Word Stock)” SKU 121820. The description yellow/green was wrong but I guess that because the photos did not match on the page. I thought they were cheap and worth taking a chance on so I ordered two. I was reasonably sure I could make them work in one form or another.

 

I spent several hours one night trying to figure out what controller the board uses (ST7920), what pins to connect where and which libraries to use. I got nowhere. I retried last night and had success. The code examples I found didn’t compile with IDE 1.0 so rather than redo the code for something that might not be what I need to make it work I downloaded IDE 0023. Once I had the demo working I understood what I needed to do to make the u8glib (Universal Graphics Library for 8 Bit Embedded Systems) work.

 

Deal Extreme Part

 

U8glib link code.google.com/p/u8glib/

 

My pin config:

LCD->ArdunioUsed as

Gnd Gnd Ground

VCC 5V Power

RS Pin 8 Chip Select (CS)

R/W Pin 9 Serial Input (MOSI)

E Pin 3 Serial Clock (SCK)

PSB Gnd Pull low to enable SPI mode

 

*And don’t forget about the contrast and black light pins.

 

Code to Make it Work

#include "U8glib.h"

U8GLIB_ST7920_128X64 u8g(3, 9, 8, U8G_PIN_NONE);

// SPI Com: SCK = en = 3, MOSI = rw = 9, CS = di = 8

   

Click here for the LCD screen

 

More Arduino DX products

 

Click here for DX (Deal Extreme)

 

The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.

The Arduino Duemilanove connected up to an RGB LED (red-green-blue light-emitting diode) inside a ping-pong ball. There's a 5mm hole in the ping-pong ball, and the LED illuminates it from the inside. The ball is just translucent enough to make a soft glow. The sketch running on the Arduino is a version of this code.

Spent a lot of time messing around with my code for the controller. I've added the ability to repeat sequence if I am happy with the splash, and a fine adjustment for each valve open/close time. Along with some other menu options.

This is one of the first I hit once I got the rough setting for this shape.

3 drops into a bowl of water/xanthan gum mix with a few drops of Dettol Power and Pure multi purpose kitchen and green food dye. Water/xanthan gum with red dye in the drop.

 

Settings:

Exposure - 1/200sec

F-stop - f/16

ISO speed - 200

Speedlite - 1/64

Height 21"

Camera to drop 50cm

 

Arduino and Processing. Very happy how this turned out.

"Astabiler Multivibrator" ist eine Schaltung, die ich jetzt gelernt habe. Auf dem Steckbord aufgebaut, mit dem Arduino gemessen und mit Processing visualisiert. Der Anfang von einem Oszilloskop.

A DIY mini-LED menorah for hanukkah.

 

Read more about our holiday electronics projects here.

entire 8-bit microcontroller with 2k PROM, and 128 bytes of RAM. It's maximum clock speed was 11MHz, and it had 2 I/O ports and a total of 27 I/O lines. It was a great processor in it's day

 

Using Digispark ATTINY85 USB board, programmed Zoom Mute and Video toggle keystrokes to the buttons (guitar pedal switches).

Shot I did for a thumbnail for my Raspberry Pi Pico review. Overhead strip LED light (battery powered) and a focus stacked image (9 exposures) from my Nikon D750 with 60mm f/2.8 lens.

transferred stack-o-saurus over to a PCB version - what a guddle making this thing was...

 

I never was any good with a soldering iron but it does work - it's a thing for automating focus-stacks

 

top and bottom views shown below

The 7-segment-display is more than 40 years old, but still works like a charm.

I'm learning how to use AVR microcontrollers. Today I got the LCD code working.

This was one of the first splashes I got running a test using a second flash I borrowed from a friend along with my own. Unfortunately the lowest setting I can get on the second flash is 1/16 so I have picked up some motion blur around the edges from that. I should have taken time in setting the flash area properly and a top up of liquid in the bowl before starting would have been a good idea. Shame that as I quite like this splash.

 

2 drop collision into water with a few drops of rinse aid. The reservoir has a xanthan gum/water mix with a few drops of laundry liquid. Colours come from a few drops of red ink in the reservoir and bowl. I am also using a light blue gel one of the flashes behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass which is giving off the purple colour in the splash.

  

Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.

Settings:

Shutter: 1/200

ISO: 100

Aperture: f/16

Speedlite: 1/16

---------------------------------

H21, D1-80, P1-60, D2-80, CD-220

While recently experimenting with Adruino microcontrollers I was struck by how easily and accurately I was able to program pretty much any motion. I thought it would be fun to try and reinvent a favourite childhood toy, the spirograph - this time in 3D and painted with light.

Using 2 LEDs, 2 motors, a rotating arm, a bicycle wheel and a lot of head scratching it finally all came together in this 15s exposure. I was blown away by the ethereal glow it produced as it perfectly illuminated me, proudly watching over my new toy.

2 drop collision into a water/xanthan gum mix. Colours come from a few drops of ink into both the wine glass and the drop reservoir. I am also using a light blue gel on the flash which is behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass.

 

Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.

Settings:

Shutter: 1/200

ISO: 200

Aperture: f/16

Speedlite: 1/16

Timings: D1-50, P1-120, D2-10, P2-8, D3-12, CD-200

Made with Arduino Microcontroller, flash shooting into a bluesheet of plastic.

The control board looks imminently hackable. It has a 78L05 regulator, PIC12F629 microcontroller, buzzer, pushbutton, and three darlington pairs to control the LED strips.

We bought a few of these Infineon XMC 2Go development boards.

It's so cute and tiny, I just had to get one. They're dirt-cheap anyway.

 

The 10 cent euro coin is for scale comparison.

Homemade using an Addressable RGB LED Light Strip and Microcontroller Board

 

See my YouTube video showing all of my current Light Painting Tools and how they work.

www.youtube.com/user/michaelrross1

 

You can find get to the detailed tutorial information and videos to make this tool yourself on my personal website under the new Tutorial Blog at:

www.mrossphoto.com

 

Building a bulbdial clock. Read more about this project here.

 

Interesting part: this photo demonstrate here that...

R+G+B = white.

White - Red = Cyan

White - Green = Magenta

White - Blue = Yellow

The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.

Next step is to find a microcontroller that can substitute the Arduino.

SDIM2055

Prototype of a wireless soil temperature sensor using a single-bord microcontroller and an LCD display.

 

License photo

Explored. July 23rd, 2013 #169

2 drop collision into a water/xanthan gum mix. Colours come from a few drops of red ink in the reservoir liquid and a few of blue in the glass. I am also using a light blue gel on the flash which is behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass.

  

Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.

Settings:

Shutter: 1/200

ISO: 200

Aperture: f/16

Speedlite: 1/16

Timings: D1-30, P1-110, D2-12, CD-200

USB Interface for SHARP PC-140x Series (sketch)

 

You will find more infos about this project on my blog:

manib.bplaced.net/blog/?p=874

Arduino Pro Mini microcontroller and LED display for electronic dice

An upcoming droplet was shot by an air rifle bullet while another drops comes down.

 

More drops & setup on my website:

www.t-braeuning.de

An old chip that i opened to see what's inside.

 

It's an Intel 8742, a 8-bit microcontroller that includes a CPU running at 12 MHz, 128 bytes of RAM, 2048 byte of EPROM, and I/O in the same chip.

 

See the official doc (pdf) on the intel's website, or see a shot of the whole thing.

 

Thank you to kingey1971 for the identification !

One of my Arduino pro micro boards had it's USB header fall off and take the pads with it, so I decided to open it up and have a peek at the chip.

 

Unfortunately this chip is firmly attached to the metal plate from the package and it will not let go, so I was unable to level the chip enough to do a composite with my 10X lens. I was stuck using the 4X one,

 

I've been rather stupid and didn't realize I could tell my camera to export raw images rather than jpgs, which would probably help out a bit with the stitching process. This is the first chip done using raw files only

 

Most of the stuff that looks like dust on the chip is actually leftover chunks of the package and cannot be removed easily.

 

Camera: SONY A6000

Panorama Y Axis: 4 Images

Panorama X Axis: 7 Images

ISO: 100

Shutter Speed: 0.8"

Light Source: Internal Lamp

DIC: Yes

Microscope Objective: 5X

Stitching Software: Autopano Giga

Other Software: Photoshop for colour balancing

Image Type: PNG

Using Digispark ATTINY85 USB board, programmed Zoom Mute and Video toggle keystrokes to the buttons (guitar pedal switches).

Visitors to our family blog can launch a car from our closet for our toddler to play with. I built a simple gravity-powered car launcher that is controlled by the web site. Clicking "Launch Car Now!" on the web site results in a sound clip from the movie "Cars" playing in our living room, followed by a car shooting out from under the coat closet door. The website uses a bit of PHP to send an email to my wife's computer, which happens to sit in the living room next to the coat closet. I created a filter in Apple Mail to run an AppleScript when a correctly coded email comes through. The AppleScript pauses iTunes and raises the system volume of the computer before activating a small applet I wrote in the Processing language. The Processing applet plays a bit of Lightning McQueen (main character in "Cars") psyching himself up before a big race. The applet then sends an "l" to the serial port, where the car launcher's Basic Stamp II microcontroller is patiently waiting. The BSII opens the sliding garage door on the launcher exactly one bay. There are five bays, for five cars. I set up little tabs to interrupt an infrared beam as the edge of each opening is reached. Once a given bay is open, gravity pulls the toy car out and down the ramp. Momentum carries it under the closed closet door and across the floor to the excited toddler. After receiving each launch command (each clicked "Launch Car Now! from the web site), the launcher will release one car and then wait for another command, progressing until the door is completely open and all cars have been released. The launcher door will then close and wait to be reloaded. The PHP on the web server makes sure the "Launch Car Now!" link is only available during usual playtime hours and also limits the number of cars launched to five per day. The table on which the launcher is sitting was another of my weekend projects, a nice roomy table for the little guy's wooden train set.

Photographing rainbow colours needs a small aperture, at the cost of resolution

Ladyada's toolbox...a medley of microcontroller manipulators

 

www.adafruit.com/index.php?products_id=136

Current highspeed setup, made with the Arduino microcontroller

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