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This is my first 3 drop collision. Pretty pleased with it. Makes me all the more want another flash now.
3 drops into cold water. Colours are from yellow ink in the water bowl and the same in the drop reservoir. There is also a blue gel on the flash which gives the green colour to the splash.
Settings:
Exposure - 1/200sec
F-stop - f/14
ISO speed - 200
Speedlite - 1/128
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H-21, M-Norm, D1-68, P1-58, D2-78, CD-186
Sparks from the secondary coil on a flyback transformer taken from a computer monitor. The flyback transformer's primary is being driven by a microcontroller.
Entry for the Light Painting Competitions and Themes Group
(And to think that I don't really even own an Apple products! ) ;-)
Light Painting - Single Exposure
Reused from a previous cake. Based on a Pololu A-Star 32U4 Arduino/Genuino-compatible microcontroller. Power comes from 4 AA cells. A flying lead with a JST-ST connector connected to the Neopixels.
The presets provide a way to adjust parameters after installation — always handy. In this cake there was only one adjustable parameter, which was the pulsing rate for Finn’s lightsaber.
The quarter-inch jack socket is for a foot switch, so that the lights can be muted when birthday boy or girl blows out the candles.
er.... I mean Floydfest!! ;-)
This is all a single exposure... SOOC.
Made with the New and Improved, home made, Multi-Program, Microcontrolled, RGB LED Light Strip
There is one great show and I'm doing something inspired by it ...
The little microcontroller is used to turn on the blue led which will be on the top.
Z8-based microcontroller, designed by Steve Ciarcia and first explained in Byte magazine (July 1981).
I changed my reservoir and solenoid set up last night to get a more constant drop from the valve. Tried it out last night and got nowhere as my liquid was too thick. Today I've been on a liquid preparation mission. Lots of slow filtering done giving me plenty of liquid to mess with. Seems like I am getting there with it as this liquid is much clearer than previous attempts. Thinner too.
Never managed to get a triple today of any sort. Looks like I am learning from the begining again with this new setup.
I got this 2 drop collision into xanthan gum mix, some blue ink and a little kitchen cleaner.
Here are some more test images using the LPD8806 Digital Light Wand. This one specifically is a 2-meter, 64 LED strip. I have a higher resolution one in the works and I will also add a diffuser to to it to help eliminate the sharp points of light from the LEDs and help spread the light out a little more.
Prototype USB Interface for SHARP PC-14xx-Serie
You will find more infos about this project on my blog:
Well, that's me all purpled out. Moving on to more colours next session.
This one is a much neater looking shroom than before. Taller and more level.
2 drops into water with a couple of additives. Colours are from red ink in the water bowl and the same in the drop reservoir. There is also a blue gel on the flash which gives the purple colour to the splash.
Settings:
Exposure - 1/200sec
F-stop - f/16
ISO speed - 100
Speedlite - 1/32
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H-21, D1-50, P1-80, D2-80, CD-189
I built this with components from openbuilds.com/ .
I still need to replace the t8 8 pitch lead screw with a t8 1.25 pitch for better precision. Then I'll add a stepper and simple microcontroller to turn it into a unit essentially identical to the Cognisys StackShot.
I have just started getting into programming on the Ardunio/Atmel microcontroller platform and one of the projects I’d like to build involves using a 128x64 monochrome LCD module.
Enter the Deal Extreme “5V 3.2" LCD12864 Screen Module with Backlit (Yellow & Green Screen/English Word Stock)” SKU 121820. The description yellow/green was wrong but I guess that because the photos did not match on the page. I thought they were cheap and worth taking a chance on so I ordered two. I was reasonably sure I could make them work in one form or another.
I spent several hours one night trying to figure out what controller the board uses (ST7920), what pins to connect where and which libraries to use. I got nowhere. I retried last night and had success. The code examples I found didn’t compile with IDE 1.0 so rather than redo the code for something that might not be what I need to make it work I downloaded IDE 0023. Once I had the demo working I understood what I needed to do to make the u8glib (Universal Graphics Library for 8 Bit Embedded Systems) work.
U8glib link code.google.com/p/u8glib/
My pin config:
LCD->ArdunioUsed as
Gnd Gnd Ground
VCC 5V Power
RS Pin 8 Chip Select (CS)
R/W Pin 9 Serial Input (MOSI)
E Pin 3 Serial Clock (SCK)
PSB Gnd Pull low to enable SPI mode
*And don’t forget about the contrast and black light pins.
Code to Make it Work
#include "U8glib.h"
U8GLIB_ST7920_128X64 u8g(3, 9, 8, U8G_PIN_NONE);
// SPI Com: SCK = en = 3, MOSI = rw = 9, CS = di = 8
The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.
More testing and tinkering this afternoon with single drops on a piece of glass.
A single drop of plain cold water with a few drops of yellow ink, dropped from a height of 40cm into a teaspoon of single cream and a couple of drops of red ink.
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Canon 550d, 100mm macro.
2x Yongnuo YN-560II flashes diffused using the side panels from an indoor macro studio.
The Arduino Duemilanove connected up to an RGB LED (red-green-blue light-emitting diode) inside a ping-pong ball. There's a 5mm hole in the ping-pong ball, and the LED illuminates it from the inside. The ball is just translucent enough to make a soft glow. The sketch running on the Arduino is a version of this code.
Spent a lot of time messing around with my code for the controller. I've added the ability to repeat sequence if I am happy with the splash, and a fine adjustment for each valve open/close time. Along with some other menu options.
This is one of the first I hit once I got the rough setting for this shape.
3 drops into a bowl of water/xanthan gum mix with a few drops of Dettol Power and Pure multi purpose kitchen and green food dye. Water/xanthan gum with red dye in the drop.
Settings:
Exposure - 1/200sec
F-stop - f/16
ISO speed - 200
Speedlite - 1/64
Height 21"
Camera to drop 50cm
Arduino and Processing. Very happy how this turned out.
"Astabiler Multivibrator" ist eine Schaltung, die ich jetzt gelernt habe. Auf dem Steckbord aufgebaut, mit dem Arduino gemessen und mit Processing visualisiert. Der Anfang von einem Oszilloskop.
entire 8-bit microcontroller with 2k PROM, and 128 bytes of RAM. It's maximum clock speed was 11MHz, and it had 2 I/O ports and a total of 27 I/O lines. It was a great processor in it's day
Using Digispark ATTINY85 USB board, programmed Zoom Mute and Video toggle keystrokes to the buttons (guitar pedal switches).
Shot I did for a thumbnail for my Raspberry Pi Pico review. Overhead strip LED light (battery powered) and a focus stacked image (9 exposures) from my Nikon D750 with 60mm f/2.8 lens.
transferred stack-o-saurus over to a PCB version - what a guddle making this thing was...
I never was any good with a soldering iron but it does work - it's a thing for automating focus-stacks
top and bottom views shown below
This was one of the first splashes I got running a test using a second flash I borrowed from a friend along with my own. Unfortunately the lowest setting I can get on the second flash is 1/16 so I have picked up some motion blur around the edges from that. I should have taken time in setting the flash area properly and a top up of liquid in the bowl before starting would have been a good idea. Shame that as I quite like this splash.
2 drop collision into water with a few drops of rinse aid. The reservoir has a xanthan gum/water mix with a few drops of laundry liquid. Colours come from a few drops of red ink in the reservoir and bowl. I am also using a light blue gel one of the flashes behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass which is giving off the purple colour in the splash.
Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.
Settings:
Shutter: 1/200
ISO: 100
Aperture: f/16
Speedlite: 1/16
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H21, D1-80, P1-60, D2-80, CD-220
While recently experimenting with Adruino microcontrollers I was struck by how easily and accurately I was able to program pretty much any motion. I thought it would be fun to try and reinvent a favourite childhood toy, the spirograph - this time in 3D and painted with light.
Using 2 LEDs, 2 motors, a rotating arm, a bicycle wheel and a lot of head scratching it finally all came together in this 15s exposure. I was blown away by the ethereal glow it produced as it perfectly illuminated me, proudly watching over my new toy.
This is a 2 drop, mid air collision in cold water with food dye. Colours are from lighting up a piece of card behind the perspex background.
2 drop collision into a water/xanthan gum mix. Colours come from a few drops of ink into both the wine glass and the drop reservoir. I am also using a light blue gel on the flash which is behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass.
Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.
Settings:
Shutter: 1/200
ISO: 200
Aperture: f/16
Speedlite: 1/16
Timings: D1-50, P1-120, D2-10, P2-8, D3-12, CD-200
The control board looks imminently hackable. It has a 78L05 regulator, PIC12F629 microcontroller, buzzer, pushbutton, and three darlington pairs to control the LED strips.
We bought a few of these Infineon XMC 2Go development boards.
It's so cute and tiny, I just had to get one. They're dirt-cheap anyway.
The 10 cent euro coin is for scale comparison.
Homemade using an Addressable RGB LED Light Strip and Microcontroller Board
See my YouTube video showing all of my current Light Painting Tools and how they work.
www.youtube.com/user/michaelrross1
You can find get to the detailed tutorial information and videos to make this tool yourself on my personal website under the new Tutorial Blog at:
Building a bulbdial clock. Read more about this project here.
Interesting part: this photo demonstrate here that...
R+G+B = white.
White - Red = Cyan
White - Green = Magenta
White - Blue = Yellow
The results of a DIY project writing custom code for a Node MCU micro-controller to control addressable LEDs.
Prototype of a wireless soil temperature sensor using a single-bord microcontroller and an LCD display.
Explored. July 23rd, 2013 #169
2 drop collision into a water/xanthan gum mix. Colours come from a few drops of red ink in the reservoir liquid and a few of blue in the glass. I am also using a light blue gel on the flash which is behind a piece of 5mm frosted glass.
Taken using the Canon 100mm f2.8 macro lens.
Settings:
Shutter: 1/200
ISO: 200
Aperture: f/16
Speedlite: 1/16
Timings: D1-30, P1-110, D2-12, CD-200