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Omega Seamaster Professional
First try at product photography
Strobist Info:
basically the Ming Thein setup, 3 flashlights through diffuser set by poverty wizards
Almost completely SOOC aside for cropping and a little contrast adjustment.
This is my friend Jenny's lens. Other than the fact that it is a pentax and a zoom lens I don't know what kind it is.. XD;
The light behind the lens looked to me like it was coming out of the lens itself, reminding me of a flashlight.
I get a lot of questions on my lighting. This is a sample of one of my favorite tools. That's right a flashlight.
The COAST P7 in this shot.
See the video:
Using two interlocked tube clamps, a Surefire G2 tactical flashlight, and a boring old mountain bike.
Got this rechargeable LED Flashlight as a gift last Friday. To celebrate it, we had a power outage through the night and past noon time the next day!
copyright © 2007 sean dreilinger
view flashlight - _MG_7327 on a black background.
Grrr. Frustration. After the battery pack working last week, I was planning to get the switch seated. But after knocking around awhile, during all these other activities, the insulation on the wires to the switch (which had been hanging loose from said wires) was wearing through in a couple places. So I cut the wires, yanked them out, and did my best to cut and de-solder the ends from the terminals on the switch. (Which is also looking battered, but still tests good)
I go to some trouble to dig up some more wire, a bit heavier gage this time, just in case, and re-solder them to the switch. While I'm at it, I also Dremel a notch at either end of the hole I cut for the switch, to make room for the lumps on either end where the wires connect.
In the process of threading the wires back through the ooooh so tight and cramped space between the inner and outer shell of the Thermos (ever try to push a string?) and the solder breaks on one terminal of the switch. So I grit my teeth, these things happen, and with some trouble and wishing again for that third hand, I manage to reattach it with out pulling everything all apart again.
Then comes wrestling endlessly to angle and twist and tug, and trim with the X-acto, and dab with hot glue when I damage the insulation again, and pry it out to crimp the edges of the hole up a bit more, and back to shoving and trimming and...Well you get the idea.
So I finally get the durned thing in, and I whip out the ol' multimeter, and guess what? Continuity from both! wires to the metal shell of the Thermos. Which means I'm going to have to pull it all back apart all over again. Pry out the switch and yank the wires back out. Siiigh. But that's for another day/night, whatever. For tonight, frustration rules the land. Muhahahahaha!
Erm, yes. ...I'm blaming the fumes. Yeah, sure the fumes. ...
EDIT: The next night
Hot diggity damn! It works!
New day, fresh perspective. The old wires had been abused for a while, so they had worn insulation all along their length. The new wires were only worked up-close to the switch. I pulled the switch out like half an inch, and retested - No more continuity to the shell! :) So I slapped some electrical tape over the suspect area, tucked it back in and bingo:
One switch in place, and operational, and still testing clean!
I frequently use an LED flashlight to spotlight something I am taking a picture of. The other day I noticed a significant color shift in a flower - perhaps I had not noticed sooner because I had not taken apicture in daylight, and then with the flash.
Time to experiment. Camera on tripod, sheet of very white typing paper taped to wall. Camera set to P. All pictures taken in RAW (Sony) and opened in the raw converter that is part of Elements 11.
The flip-up flash on the camera (Sony A580) was used for the top picture.
The column of pictures on the left are screen shots of the images down the left side of the raw converter, and the histograms are screen shots from the raw converter.
I was surprised that the level of gray was not more similar. The color shifts were expected.
Addendum - I just went back to the raw processor and used the white balance tool on the white paper. The histograms were corrected for the major areas, with just some discrepancy at the left.
Takeaway: use a proper gray color patch in the photograph.