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Designing and building a high power amplifier capable of driving low impedance (as low as 2 Ohm’s @ 50 Vpp) loads.
www.diyaudio.com/ see alias FdW
History of DIY audio
Audio DIY came to prominence in the 50s to 60s, as audio reproduction was relatively new and the technology "complex," audio reproduction equipment, and in particular high performance equipment, was not offered at the retail level. Kits and designs were available for consumers to build their own equipment. Famous vacuum tube kits from Dynaco, Heathkit, and McIntosh, as well as solid state (transistor) kits from Hafler allowed for consumers to build their own hi fidelity systems. Books and magazines were published which explained new concepts regarding the design and operation of vacuum tube and (later) transistor circuits.
While audio equipment has become easily accessible in the current day and age, there still exists an interest in building one's own equipment, including amplifiers, speakers, preamplifiers, and even CD players and turntables. Today, a network of companies, parts vendors, and on-line communities exist to foster this interest. DIY is especially active in loudspeaker and in tube amplification. Both are relatively simple to design and fabricate without access to sophisticated industrial equipment. Both enable the builder to pick and choose between various available parts, on matters of price as well as quality, allow for extensive experimentation, and offer the chance to use exotic or highly labor-intensive solutions, which would be expensive for a manufacturer to implement, but only require personal labor by the DIYer, which is a source of satisfaction to them.
The PCBs for my nixie tube clock arrived, and I even got twice as many as I ordered! Hurrah for Gold Phoenix.
At any rate after a marathon soldering session they are finally assembled and awaiting testing and programming and all that. The power supply works, and the AVR was programmable, so that's a good sign!
...with a grill!
I needed to try out my solder paste and wanted to reflow solder these parts, especially the tricky switch and SD card which would be a pain to solder by hand. I don't have an IR oven or a hot plate (or a reflow machine!) but I do have a standard home grill and figured it would be perfect: the fan moves the air, keeping everything the same temperature while the heating elements are overhead and far away enough to heat uniformly over the surface.
It took 5 minutes from turning on until every joint had reflowed (they started reflowing at 4min) and then I left them for a minute out of the grill to cool down. They seem to have soldered perfectly!
I'm still waiting for the parts for the other two PCBs, but the method seems to be great - and loads quicker than doing it by hand!
P.S. yea, it's not a very well regulated temperature, but I don't have a thermometer that could cope so it's pretty difficult to measure
After hours spent carefully reworking the ARM (it arrived with some pins bent inwards, which wasn't noticed until after reflow, where they held it up and all the other pins didn't touch the pcb) and many more hours spent going over everything to work out why it wasn't programming, it suddenly started programming! hurrah
Electronics factory workers, Cikarang, Indonesia © ILO/Asrian Mirza
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 IGO License. To view a copy of this license, visit creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/igo/deed.en_US.
Seen Here: The PCB with chips and resistors etc all done.
So, today my PCB for the LED matrix arrived from BatchPCB! For what I paid, the PCB arrived fairly quickly - I ordered it on the 15/02 I believe, and it arrived 11/03 -- 26 days, which is pretty good (they state 19 business days).
The quality is very, very impressive - far better than anything I could pull off at home. The silkscreen and soldermask makes it look really nice, too.
Soldering it was a joy, although there was a LOT to solder and it's all surface mounted.
I had a few problems at first; it wasn't lighting the matrix at all properly but I soon realised with my new design (transistors on the cathodes) I have to write the transistors HIGH to get a LOW on the cathode, so a quick line of code changed to get that working.
Then for some reason the top half of every letter was flipped. It turns out this was my fault: I messed up when making the package for the LED matrix in Eagle, swapping the matrix's 5th cathode for my system's 8th, 6th for 7th, 7th for 6th and 8th for 5th. This was fairly easy to fix in code, however.
Finally USB isn't working to program or communicate, but I can configure the FT232RL chip (after all, it's sending the clock pulse that's driving my ATmega168). I think I have an idea of what's causing this, but I'm not sure yet.
The three units on the left are channel units. Thick wires lead to each phone, thin wires lead to each analog phone line outside of the office. The other two modules are for control, voice mail, etc.
The chassis is modular, so you can plug more units as needed.
Lindstrom 7190 Micro-Bevel Side Cutter (at the centrer, white handle)
FRI-DA-REM Flat Nose Pliers (yellow handle)
(all Knipex pliers, clockwise, after the Fri-Da-Rem)
Knipex 32 11 135 Relay Adjusting Pliers
Knipex 32 21 135 Relay Adjusting Pliers
Knipex 64 62 120 Electronics Oblique End Cutting Nipper - mini-blade
Knipex 77 42 115 Electronics Diagonal Cutter - pointed head
Knipex 77 22 115 Electronics Diagonal Cutter - round head
Knipex 64 52 115 Electronics Oblique End Cutting Nipper - short head
Knipex 78 03 125 Electronic Super Knips - Cutting Pliers
Knipex 35 32 115 Electronics Round Nose Pliers
Knipex 11 92 140 Electronics Wire Stripper
Knipex 35 62 145 Electronics Flat Nose Pliers
Side note: The FRI-DA-REM pliers is by far the oldest one I show here. It was not new when it was given to me as a boy, and I have it for some 25 years now.
I can't find any useful information about the FRI-DA-REM brand on the web, so I now nothing about it.
I ended up later buying all those Knipex pliers, because I tried for years find a replacement for the old FRI-DA-REM pliers, and the closest I've found was the Relay Adjusting Pliers from Knipex, and even those have not such a thin flat nose as the FRI-DA-REM one. All others came later.
The PCBs for SelWX have arrived! I don't have the parts on hand to start soldering them yet, and not much time due to work, but... soon!
Model 604HS panel meter 0-1 DC volts. Same quality as the 604HSR but in a different scale. One of three I found in Toronto at a electronic surplus store. Notice the differences in the pointers.
My logic analyser arrived today from Saleae and now I can finally see what's actually going on with the camera. It hooks up really easily and the software's great, though unfortunately the linux version isn't finished yet. Nevertheless I was able to get some great traces of what the camera's sending and it should hopefully be enough to tweak my code into reading the image properly!
Electronics factory worker, Cikarang, Indonesia © ILO/Asrian Mirza
This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 IGO License. To view a copy of this license, visit creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/igo/deed.en_US.
Macro of some 'old school' electronics, meaning pre-surface mounted devices and computer chips. Circuit board from an old battery backup emergency light.
Final testing of the 1253 before I put everything together. Managed to pull in Radio Taiwan - so clearly that I turned the volume up so loudly that I could hear it two rooms away, but there wasn't any distortion. This was with a 15' length of hookup wire for an antenna.
The Mid-Fi Electronics Glitch Computer is a two octave down fuzz with the ability to control tracking, enabling everything from pseudo fuzz bass to full on random arpeggiation.
Mid-Fi Electronics pedals are very hard to keep in-stock due to lots of demand. We just got a large shipment of them so all pedals currently ship from stock. LINK: www.analoguehaven.com/midfielectronics/ .
CORE CR-1.
Bottpower electronic module. This module is connected with the ECU via CAN. It's function is to create racing strategies as Traction Control, Engine brake control, Launch Control, Fuel consumption control, etc.
Composants électroniques (focus stacking).
Image composée de 38 photos prises avec la bonnette Raynox DCR-250 et assemblées avec Zerene Stacker.
Photos from an article about some different identifying marks on chips. You can read that article here.
The new edition of Grob: Basic Electronics has been completely revised with a new look and new information to keep students at the forefront of basic electronics education. It includes new problems and questions at the end of each chapter, sidebar features throughout the text, and a critical...
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#Books#BernardGrob, #ElectronicsBooks
One of the easiest ways to sign off documents is the use of an electronic signature. It has been a very easy way for patients to sign off medical forms without having a lot of paper forms and trying to organize them all.