View allAll Photos Tagged electronics.

Greece, NY. July 2023.

 

If you would like to use THIS picture in any sort of media (such as newspaper or article) please send me a Flickr mail or an e-mail at natehenderson6@gmail.com.

A russian aircraft electronics box, big plugs and lots of trimmers, unknown purpose.

Seller said it was from a Mig aircraft... I say no, not aero design, and too heavy... it rather seems to be a stackable box, so probably a part from something bigger... Not from a ship or submarine, because it's not the regular navy color and not moisture resistant... maybe it's from a mobile radar or radio relay system... Led bulbs says "Defect" (Avaria) with which "module" is defect (sub-block) and also if the status is "Normal" (Norma). Switches are for "Address" "Test" and "Power". Quite happy with the item, it is exposed in my living room !

Complete with all header pins, external 3V power supply, and PC serial interface

This is a test circuit I cobbled up today to try out an Optrex DMF5005N graphic LCD display.

 

Here you can see how what is a nice neat ribbon cable / IDC arrangement on the display side becomes a horrible Cthulhu-beard of wires at the breadboard side. Each ribbon cable conductor is a stranded wire, i.e., a collection of hair-fine wires that would be hopeless to stick in a breadboard socket, so I tinned all of them with a drop of solder to stiffen them up. The result? The technique worked, but I can't really recommend it. In fact, I anti-recommend it. It's a lot of fiddly work to tin the wire ends, and it would be very easy to break them off in the breadboard. When I get past the driver prototyping and get around to using the display in a real project, I'll figure out a nicer way to interface it.

 

As you can see from the rat's nest on the breadboard, wiring a display like this takes a lot of signal paths - it used all but two of the I/O pins on the ATTiny861 MCU, so that chip is not a great choice for this LCD if you mean to do any chattering with any other peripherals. The data lines could be shared, but I don't like the kind of juggling you have to do for that if you can instead just use a chip with more I/O lines - and as it happens, I have several of them. I chose the Tiny861 for this test because it's a very easy chip to debug in-circuit using the Development Environment of Kings. That came in handy for this projecteen because my code did have a bug in it which the in-circuit debugger helped me track down. Yay!

 

My goal for today was to get this display to show a checkerboard pattern of 8x8 pixel squares. I pulled it off! Fancier stuff can come later - a large fraction of the effort for projects like this is to get the circuit to do anything at all, and once that's going, the rest is relatively easy.

Embedded Electronics Starter Kit from GHI Electronics

 

FEZ Spider Starter Kit

www.ghielectronics.com/catalog/product/297

 

FEZ Spider Starter Kit is the first commercially available .NET Gadgeteer-compatible kit. it includes everything necessary for educators, hobbyists and even professionals. Embedded development is fast & easy (FEZ) thanks to .NET Micro Framework, .NET Gadgeteer and the numerous GHI value added features such as WiFi and USB Host.

 

The kit includes:

 

FEZ Spider Mainboard

Display T35 Module (3.5" with touchscreen)

USB Client DP Module (with USB cable)

Camera Module

2x Multicolor LED Module (DaisyLink)

2x Button Module

Ethernet J11D Module

SD Card Module

USB Host Module

Extender Module

Joystick Module

10cm IDC cables (included with modules).

Assorted IDC Cable Pack:

4x 5cm IDC cables

3x 20cm IDC cables

1x 50cm IDC cable

Reusable Plastic Storage Box

 

FEZ Spider Mainboard is a .NET Gadgeteer-compatible mainboard based on GHI Electronics' EMX module. This makes FEZ Spider Mainboard the most feature-full .NET Gadgeteer compatible device in the market. It contains all of .NET Micro Framework core features and adds many exclusive features, such as USB host, WiFi and RLP (loading native code). All these features combine to provide a rapid prototyping platform.

 

Key Features:

 

14 .NET Gadgeteer compatible sockets that include these types: X, Y, A, C, D, E, F, H, I, K, O, P, S, T, U, R, G, B and Z.

Configurable on-board LED

Configuration switches.

Based on GHI Electronics EMX module

72MHz 32-bit ARM7 processor

4.5 MB Flash

16 MB RAM

LCD controller

Full TCP/IP Stack with SSL, HTTP, TCP, UDP, DHCP

Ethernet, WiFi driver and PPP ( GPRS/ 3G modems) and DPWS

USB host

USB Device with specialized libraries to emulate devices like thumb-drive, virtual COM (CDC), mouse, keyboard

76 GPIO Pin

2 SPI (8/16bit)

I2C

4 UART

2 CAN Channels

7 10-bit Analog Inputs

10-bit Analog Output (capable of WAV audio playback)

4-bit SD/MMC Memory card interface

6 PWM

OneWire interface (available on any IO)

Built-in Real Time Clock (RTC) with the suitable crystal

Processor register access

OutputCompare for generating waveforms with high accuracy

RLP allowing users to load native code (C/Assembly) for real-time requirements

Extended double-precision math class

FAT File System

Cryptography (AES and XTEA)

Low power and hibernate support

In-field update (from SD, network or other)

Dimensions: W 2.25" x L 2.05" x H 0.5"

 

Power

 

Low power and hibernate modes

Active power consumption 160 mA

Idle power consumption 120 mA

Hibernate power consumption 40 mA

 

Enviromental:

 

Requires .NET Gadgeteer standard red power modules.

RoHS compliant /Lead-free compliant

 

Most EMX software features are GHI exclusive, see software documentation for details.

 

For more information about .NET Gadgeteer visit:

www.netmf.com/gadgeteer/

 

Photograph taken by Michael Kappel

www.MichaelKappel.com

 

Burra Bazaar area, Kolkata.

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Taken with a Pentax MX, Pentax 50mm f/1.7 lens with Fuji Xtra 400 consumer film.

* Electro Harmonix 12AU7

* Solen MKP input capacitors

* Nichicon Muse output capacitors

* Alps stereo volume control potentiometer

 

The PCB layout has been heavily modified since I built my prototype: added a ground pour, fatter traces, an extra mounting hole. Had to get the digital calipers out to measure my tube socket and make the component in Eagle. It has been hard work, with a huge amount of learning on my part. Sound is amazing, tho :)

From Dell Latitude D600

For Sale - TOSHIBA true Flat screen 32" TV (CRT - not LCD or Plasma). Remote control included. Antenna/Cable/Sat, S-Video and Composite Video inputs in the back. Additional S-Video and Composite Video inputs in the front as well. Speakers built-in. Silver finish. Screen is truly flat and measures 32" diagonally.

 

In Excellent Condition. Bought 4 years ago. Excellent for TV viewing or gaming. Asking $165 or best offer. Pickup only. Pl call 734.674.6868.

Seen Here: The PCB with the chips in place.

 

So, today my PCB for the LED matrix arrived from BatchPCB! For what I paid, the PCB arrived fairly quickly - I ordered it on the 15/02 I believe, and it arrived 11/03 -- 26 days, which is pretty good (they state 19 business days).

 

The quality is very, very impressive - far better than anything I could pull off at home. The silkscreen and soldermask makes it look really nice, too.

 

Soldering it was a joy, although there was a LOT to solder and it's all surface mounted.

I had a few problems at first; it wasn't lighting the matrix at all properly but I soon realised with my new design (transistors on the cathodes) I have to write the transistors HIGH to get a LOW on the cathode, so a quick line of code changed to get that working.

Then for some reason the top half of every letter was flipped. It turns out this was my fault: I messed up when making the package for the LED matrix in Eagle, swapping the matrix's 5th cathode for my system's 8th, 6th for 7th, 7th for 6th and 8th for 5th. This was fairly easy to fix in code, however.

 

Finally USB isn't working to program or communicate, but I can configure the FT232RL chip (after all, it's sending the clock pulse that's driving my ATmega168). I think I have an idea of what's causing this, but I'm not sure yet.

Electronics

 

Signature Origin

Sleeves of all shapes and sizes, for all sorts of ears; these came with some earphones I got.

Model 604 HSR panel meter 0-50 volts DC. This is a quality meter of the type you see on the TV-7 tube testers. Found this in a electronic surplus store in Toronto.

Designing and building a high power amplifier capable of driving low impedance (as low as 2 Ohm’s @ 50 Vpp) loads.

 

www.diyaudio.com/ see alias FdW

  

History of DIY audio

 

Audio DIY came to prominence in the 50s to 60s, as audio reproduction was relatively new and the technology "complex," audio reproduction equipment, and in particular high performance equipment, was not offered at the retail level. Kits and designs were available for consumers to build their own equipment. Famous vacuum tube kits from Dynaco, Heathkit, and McIntosh, as well as solid state (transistor) kits from Hafler allowed for consumers to build their own hi fidelity systems. Books and magazines were published which explained new concepts regarding the design and operation of vacuum tube and (later) transistor circuits.

 

While audio equipment has become easily accessible in the current day and age, there still exists an interest in building one's own equipment, including amplifiers, speakers, preamplifiers, and even CD players and turntables. Today, a network of companies, parts vendors, and on-line communities exist to foster this interest. DIY is especially active in loudspeaker and in tube amplification. Both are relatively simple to design and fabricate without access to sophisticated industrial equipment. Both enable the builder to pick and choose between various available parts, on matters of price as well as quality, allow for extensive experimentation, and offer the chance to use exotic or highly labor-intensive solutions, which would be expensive for a manufacturer to implement, but only require personal labor by the DIYer, which is a source of satisfaction to them.

  

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIY_audio

Printed circuit board for the Southern Cross 1 single-board Z80 computer.

Testing the custom electronics and handmade double-sided PC boards. Also shown is the Argent Data Systems OpenTracker+ SMT and a custom GPS board utilizing the Inventek Systems ISM300F2-C5-V0004 GPS module. Photo credit Mike Hudak.

Thanks to all who brought their no-longer-needed electronics to our drop-off recycling event at Walt Whitman High School on November 4, 2012, and to the staff and volunteers who supported the afternoon.

 

Details about our electronics recycling program:

www6.montgomerycountymd.gov/apps/dep/solidwaste/collectio...

...with a grill!

 

I needed to try out my solder paste and wanted to reflow solder these parts, especially the tricky switch and SD card which would be a pain to solder by hand. I don't have an IR oven or a hot plate (or a reflow machine!) but I do have a standard home grill and figured it would be perfect: the fan moves the air, keeping everything the same temperature while the heating elements are overhead and far away enough to heat uniformly over the surface.

 

It took 5 minutes from turning on until every joint had reflowed (they started reflowing at 4min) and then I left them for a minute out of the grill to cool down. They seem to have soldered perfectly!

 

I'm still waiting for the parts for the other two PCBs, but the method seems to be great - and loads quicker than doing it by hand!

 

P.S. yea, it's not a very well regulated temperature, but I don't have a thermometer that could cope so it's pretty difficult to measure

The PCBs for my nixie tube clock arrived, and I even got twice as many as I ordered! Hurrah for Gold Phoenix.

 

At any rate after a marathon soldering session they are finally assembled and awaiting testing and programming and all that. The power supply works, and the AVR was programmable, so that's a good sign!

Hobby Electronics

 

Power supply board for amplifier.

At Kaparelis/Electronet in Zakynthos, Greece.

I've been putting off starting some electronics experimentation for far too long. No more!

After hours spent carefully reworking the ARM (it arrived with some pins bent inwards, which wasn't noticed until after reflow, where they held it up and all the other pins didn't touch the pcb) and many more hours spent going over everything to work out why it wasn't programming, it suddenly started programming! hurrah

Electronics

 

Signature Origin

Electronics factory workers, Cikarang, Indonesia © ILO/Asrian Mirza

 

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 IGO License. To view a copy of this license, visit creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/igo/deed.en_US.

 

Fitted onto Mig-23, Mig-27. I am seeking for a matching display panel, a hard to find item !

Seen Here: The PCB with chips and resistors etc all done.

 

So, today my PCB for the LED matrix arrived from BatchPCB! For what I paid, the PCB arrived fairly quickly - I ordered it on the 15/02 I believe, and it arrived 11/03 -- 26 days, which is pretty good (they state 19 business days).

 

The quality is very, very impressive - far better than anything I could pull off at home. The silkscreen and soldermask makes it look really nice, too.

 

Soldering it was a joy, although there was a LOT to solder and it's all surface mounted.

I had a few problems at first; it wasn't lighting the matrix at all properly but I soon realised with my new design (transistors on the cathodes) I have to write the transistors HIGH to get a LOW on the cathode, so a quick line of code changed to get that working.

Then for some reason the top half of every letter was flipped. It turns out this was my fault: I messed up when making the package for the LED matrix in Eagle, swapping the matrix's 5th cathode for my system's 8th, 6th for 7th, 7th for 6th and 8th for 5th. This was fairly easy to fix in code, however.

 

Finally USB isn't working to program or communicate, but I can configure the FT232RL chip (after all, it's sending the clock pulse that's driving my ATmega168). I think I have an idea of what's causing this, but I'm not sure yet.

The three units on the left are channel units. Thick wires lead to each phone, thin wires lead to each analog phone line outside of the office. The other two modules are for control, voice mail, etc.

 

The chassis is modular, so you can plug more units as needed.

Learning Electronics.

Lindstrom 7190 Micro-Bevel Side Cutter (at the centrer, white handle)

FRI-DA-REM Flat Nose Pliers (yellow handle)

(all Knipex pliers, clockwise, after the Fri-Da-Rem)

Knipex 32 11 135 Relay Adjusting Pliers

Knipex 32 21 135 Relay Adjusting Pliers

Knipex 64 62 120 Electronics Oblique End Cutting Nipper - mini-blade

Knipex 77 42 115 Electronics Diagonal Cutter - pointed head

Knipex 77 22 115 Electronics Diagonal Cutter - round head

Knipex 64 52 115 Electronics Oblique End Cutting Nipper - short head

Knipex 78 03 125 Electronic Super Knips - Cutting Pliers

Knipex 35 32 115 Electronics Round Nose Pliers

Knipex 11 92 140 Electronics Wire Stripper

Knipex 35 62 145 Electronics Flat Nose Pliers

 

Side note: The FRI-DA-REM pliers is by far the oldest one I show here. It was not new when it was given to me as a boy, and I have it for some 25 years now.

I can't find any useful information about the FRI-DA-REM brand on the web, so I now nothing about it.

I ended up later buying all those Knipex pliers, because I tried for years find a replacement for the old FRI-DA-REM pliers, and the closest I've found was the Relay Adjusting Pliers from Knipex, and even those have not such a thin flat nose as the FRI-DA-REM one. All others came later.

 

Using a circuit board as a concept

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