View allAll Photos Tagged develope

Milano Centro - Scorcio Urbano

Marzo 2025

 

FujiFilm GA645W

Super EBC Fujinon 45mm f4

Kodak TMax 100

R09 Studio 1+30 x 10 min

Portrait of a Samburu warrior at a wedding ceremony early in the morning in a village near Archers Post, Northern Kenya.

 

Between the age of about 15 and 30 young Samburu men are traditionally known as "morans". After the circumcision ceremony the Samburu boys enter the age grade "moran", the Maasai word for "warrior". During this life stage they live separated in the bush or they move to special moran manyattas. They learn the tribal customs and develope their strength, courage and endurance. The morans stop cutting their hair at the age of 15. They often dye their long hair with red ochre and also decorate themselves with necklaces and feathers.

 

The Samburu are semi-nomadic pastoralists in Northern Kenya and they are closely related to the Maasai people. They speak Samburu, a language which is derived from Maa and very similar to the language of the Maasai.

 

Website: Dietmar Temps, photography

Blog: Dietmar Temps, travel blog

Castellanza - Scorcio Urbano

Aprile 2025

 

Rolleiflex 2.8 C

Schneider-Kreuznach Xenotar 80mm f2.8

Rollei Retro 80

Bellini Hydrofen 1+30 x 9 min

Singer 10 Coupe (1919-24) Engine 1096cc S4 OHV Production 6000 approx

SINGER SET

www.flickr.com/photos/45676495@N05/sets/72157623722487129...

 

Introduced in 1919 with a straight four side vale engine, overhead valve from 1923, driving through a three speed gearbox and cone clutch.

The Rootes Brothers sales network helped make the model a great sucess from its launch, Rootes finally aquire Singer in 1956. Forty to Fifty a week were being produced by the mid 1920s. Quoted as having a top speed of 50mph and 40mpg, not at the same time,

A Singer Ten special was contested by Lionel Martin before he went on to develope Aston Martin.

 

Diolch am 77,687,641 o olygfeydd anhygoel, mae pob un yn cael ei werthfawrogi'n fawr.

 

Thanks for 77,687,641 amazing views, every one is greatly appreciated.

 

Shot 22.09.2019 at the Birmingham Museum and Art Galleries, Dollman Street Stores open Day 143-1110

   

Hi everyone!

Fortunately I have the time to upload my newest creation! It's a train and it's the model of an ICE 3. It is 196 stud (157 cm) long and contains more than 3300 pieces, two IR receivers, two battery boxes and two train motors. Hope you like it! Oh, and another important information is, that it will be visible on Zusammengebaut 2016 in November and on Bricks am Meer in April 2017 in Germany!

 

At first please watch these two videos! The first one shows a crash. The place, where I made the video, wasn't horizontal, and on the slope the train got a too high speed. Well, I can say it is quite stable construction, despite the building techniques of the front. During the crash, only the boogies fell down!

 

The records of the second one were made after I repaired the train. You can watch it behind this link!

 

I'm really happy, that it is ready! It took me almost a year to build and become satisfied with the result. You may know, if someone build a train, the front is the most important thing. If it's not good, it's unnecessary to build the other sections. Everything started with an LDD model from a front-idea. I built something in the program, but I didn't like it. Later it came always into my mind and didn't allow me to be calm. So I started to develope the construction. Some month later it looked nice enough to order some parts and make it in real life. It contained so many interesting and strange techniques, that it was a real challenge to put the bricks together in the program, and with real bricks it was hard, too. And the real 3D model was ugly! But I said, that it has to be possible to find out something, which makes the model better. So I made some changes, and some more, and some more, and finally I liked it, and I thought that I found the maximum! I stored the train (only the front section) and some other parts on the table in the middle of our house. And one night, I couldn't sleep. I woke up and went out to the table to do something. And I don't know why, but I put an element into the middle of the front. And I said 'wow'! It was perfect (for me of course, for you, I still don't know, but I will read the comments :) )! Some gaps disappeared, some sections got new positions. That element made so big changes on the overall look, that it was incredible! I felt high, but next day I was very sleepy. :D

 

More pictures are on MOCpages!

Busto Arsizio - Gennaio 2022

Scorcio Urbano (same places - another film and equipment)

 

Hasselblad SWC

Zeiss Biogon 38mm f4,5

Bergger Pancro 400

R09 one shot 1+25 x 8 min

Busto Arsizio - Scorcio Urbano

Febbraio 2025

 

Nikon FE

Nikkor 35mm f2 AI

Fomapan 100

Bellini Hydrofen 1+31 x 9 min

Lomo LC-A | 20mm | Fuji Sensia 100

Fagnano Olona - Scorcio urbano

Giugno 2025

 

Rolleiflex 3,5E

Schneider-Kreuznach Xenotar 75mm f3.5 + filtro giallo -1

Fomapan 100

R09 Studio 1+31 x 10 min

Fagnano Olona - Scorcio urbano

Giugno 2025

 

Hasselblad 500 C/M

Zeiss Distagon 50mm f4 + filtro giallo -1

Kodak Tri-x 400 (expired)

Bellini Hydrofen 1+31 x 8 min

Busto Arsizio Luglio 2022

 

Rolleiflex 3.5F

Zeiss Planar 75mm f3,5 + Rolleinar I

Rollei SuperPan 200

Bellini Hydrofen 1+30 x 13 min

Praga - Febbraio 2023

 

Olympus XA2

D.Zuiko 35mm f3,5

Agfa APX 400

R09 Studio 1+31 x 8 min

Busto Arsizio - scorcio urbano

Gennaio 2023

 

Hasselblad SWC (1968)

Zeiss Biogon 38 mm f4,5

Rollei SuperPan 200

Bellini Hydrofen 1+30 x 9 min

Canale Villoresi - Tornavento

Gennaio 2023

 

Hasselblad SWC (1968)

Zeiss Biogon 38 mm f4,5

Rollei SuperPan 200

Bellini Hydrofen 1+30 x 9 min

©SB

 

Nachdem mir Christian ein paar Tips bezüglich der Nachbearbeitung gegeben hat, habe ich mich mal im Low-Key-Bereich ausprobiert. Was meint ihr, was könnte man noch verbessern?

Vielen Dank an chmeermann!

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After some hints from Christian to get a good workflow, I tried to develope low key pictures. What do you think, what could be better?

 

Many thanks to chmeermann!

this is my set-up for processing black and white negatives at home. usually i would just scan the negatives on a cheapo flatbed scanner as my "proof" prints. the processing part is quick and cheap, and you don't have to worry about the lab scratching up your film. here're the steps:

 

1. fill the water bottle (a) with cold tap water and stick the thermometer (b) in it. try to get it to 68F. you may have to add hot water or ice cube depending on the weather.

 

2. load the negative onto the reel/tank (c) inside the changing bag (d). if you're using 35mm film you'll need a bottle opener to open the cannister inside the bag (or in complete darkness). this is often the trickiest part. you can practice with a spare roll of negatives. some people prefer the plastic type which may be easier to roll. but i find the metal ones pretty easy to work with and are durable.

 

3. used the syringe measurer (e) to mix the right mount of developer (f) in the graduated plastic beaker cup (g). I use kodak's hc-110 developer and use it "one shot" only -- i mix up just enough for each tank and use it only once. a bottle of this can probably process about 18 rolls of 120 or 30 rolls of 35mm film.

 

4. agitate the tank periodically, for a period of time based on the type of film you're using and the temperature of the water. i use a cheapo sports stopwatch (h) to time this. you don't have to stop and restart it, but just let it run for the total amount of time you need to develope, and just agitate it at the 30 second or 1 minute marks.

 

5. dump out the developer and fill with clean tap water that's near the same temperature as what you used to develope. agitate the tank with the clean water for about 30 seconds. repeat again with new water. the film is done developing at this point.

 

6. meaure out enough of the pre-mixed fixer (i) in the graduated beaker cup (g). you can probably pour it directly into the tank but it's safer this way. pour the measured amount of fixer from the beaker into the tank. agitate the fixer periodically for an amount of time specified for your film (anywhere from 2 minutes to 6 minutes).

 

7. pour the fixer from the tank (c) back into the gallon jar (i). the fixer can be reused. i think a gallon can fix maybe 100 rolls of film. but basically you watch to see if the amount of time to "clear" the film has increased by a certain amount, say 30% or 50% from when it was new. most cities have places to take used fixer to. i usually take it to our local public darkroom. it's a bad idea to dump it in the sink because it contains the silver from the fixed negatives.

 

8. open the tank and check out the film! look to make sure the fixer has made the unexposed portion of the film (sprockets for example) clear. if it looks cloudy you can fix the film some more. this can be done with the light on.

 

9. rince the film under the faucet, with the reel inside the tank for about a minute. again try to make the water to be near room temperature. you don't want very hot or very cold water.

 

After step 9 your film is processed. The rest of the steps are all about washing any excess fixer off of the film, so it won't fade out when you donate your negatives to the smithsonian... :-) if you don't care how long the negative would last you can just hang it up to dry after this step.

 

10) mix up some perma wash (j) in the graduated beaker, and pour into the tank. agitate for about a minute and dump out the liquid. by the way, you should rinse the plastic beaker thoroughly between uses. i just have one but some people use one for each type of chemical. i haven't found that i need more than one though.

 

11. open the tank and rinse it under the faucet as in step 9, for a minute or so.

 

12. pour all the water out of the tank, and fill it with distilled water (not shown). put 2 to 4 drops of kodak photo-flo (k) in the tank and swish the water around a bit to make sure it's mixed in. i rotate the reel i

Busto Arsizio - Scorcio urbano

Giugno 2025

 

Canonet G-III QL17

Canon 40 mm f1,7 + filtro giallo -1

Fomapan 100

R09 Studio 1+31 x 10 min

Milano 2019-09-14

Street

 

Hasselblad Super Wide C (1968)

Biogon 38mm f4.5

 

Fomapan 100

Hydrofen 1+39 x 8 min

 

Other shots in this album

flic.kr/s/aHsmGXiMPy

Castellanza - Scorcio urbano

Giugno 2025

 

FujiFilm GA645W

Super EBC Fujinon 45mm f4

Kentemere 100

R09 Studio 1+30 x 9 min

IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE

 

Als peus del turó del castell de Lluçà es troba el obviament anomenat Mas del Castell. Per desgracia, deshabitada, però per mi és una masia d'una volumetria preciosament equilibrada, amb els seus tres cossos.

 

Placa de col•lodió sec, mètode Major Russell (col•lodió-taní), en format 4x5; realitzat amb una Graflex Crown Graphic fabricada cap al 1951; Graflex Optar f4,7 de 135mm; 5 minuts a f8 (EV 13); revelat 9:30 minuts en acid pirogallic.

 

Les plaques cobertes amb co•lodió (i anteriorment albuminades, part essencial del procés) es preparen com per a una placa humida usual. En el moment de treure-les del bany de plata, comença la diversió. Cal rentar la placa, sota llum roja, en dues safates d'aigua destilada, i seguidament, submerir-la en una sol•lució d'aigua, taní i etanol. Son uns 10 minutes per placa, en total. Un cop feta la exposició, encara més important el revelat també és per inmersió. Primer s’humidifica la placa seca amb aigua i etanol, i després es submergeix 5 minuts en una solució d’acid pirogalic i citric, amb unes gotes de nitrat de plata. Amb això s’inicia el revelat, però cal afegir més nitrat de plata passats els cinc minuts i usualment fins als 10-12 minuts.

 

Les plaques de col•lodió sec son força desconegudes però es varen fer servir en paral•lel al més famós col•lodió humit. Eren molt pràctiques per eliminar la necessitat de portar a sobre tots els quimics i una cambra fosca portatil, però com les exposicions son molt llargues, de diversos minuts com a mínim, en queden exclosos els retrats. Aquest tipus de procediment en concret, conegut com a mètode Russell, data de 1861.

 

cool.culturalheritage.org/albumen/library/monographs/monc...

 

====================

 

Just bellow the castle hill in Lluçà, Catalonia, stands the aptly named Mas del Castell ("countryhouse of the castle"). It's an uninhabited Catalan masia, beautiful in it's composition of volumes and it's spartan façade.

 

Dry collodion plate, Major Russell process (tannin-collodion) in 4x5 format; taken with a Graflex Speed Graphic, made c. 1951; Graflex Optar f4,7 / 135mm lens; exposed for 5 minutes at f8 (EV 13); developed 9:30 minutes in pyrogallic acid.

 

The dry collodion is a quite convenient "evolution" from the wet collodion, as it allows to go out there without any box of chemicals and a dark box following you. But it never gained more popularity due to it's own problems, like even more complex manipulations and specially much less sensibility, with expositions in the minutes range, limiting it to landscape photography. This method, discovered by Major Russell in 1861, uses tannin to preserve the sensitivity of the plates once dry.

 

Glass plates covered with collodion (and previously albuminized, an essential part of the process) are prepared as for a usual wet plate. The moment you take them out of the silver bath, the fun begins. The plate must be washed, under red light, in two trays of distilled water, and then immersed in a solution of water, tannin and ethanol. It's about 10 minutes per plate, in total

 

Once the exposure is made, even more important is to develope also by immersion. First, the dry plate is moistened with water and ethanol, and then immersed for 5 minutes in a solution of pyrogallic and citric acid, with a few drops of silver nitrate. This starts the development, but it is necessary to add more silver nitrate after five minutes and usually up to 10-12 minutes.

 

cool.culturalheritage.org/albumen/library/monographs/monc...

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjxNoTjOZrc&t=2941s

MALLORCA

Pentax LX - K 28mm F3.5 -Foma100

Pyrocat HD Semistand develop 21min

 

Mallorca Oct 22

 

Pentax LX - SMC K 28mm - Adox Cms 20 II pro - Pyrocat hd semistand 28 min

Silvi Marina

Agosto 2023

 

Minox 35 GT-E

Minoxar 35mm f2,8

Kentmere 100

R09 Studio 1+30 x 9 min

Samburu warrior with traditional hairdress joining a wedding ceremony in a village near Archers Post, Northern Kenya.

 

Between the age of about 15 and 30 young Samburu men are traditionally known as "morans". After the circumcision ceremony the Samburu boys enter the age grade "moran", the Maasai word for "warrior". During this life stage they live separated in the bush or they move to special moran manyattas. They learn the tribal customs and develope their strength, courage and endurance. The morans stop cutting their hair at the age of 15. They dye their long hair with red ochre and also decorate themselves with necklaces and feathers.

 

The Samburu are semi-nomadic pastoralists in Northern Kenya and they are closely related to the Maasai people. They speak Samburu, a language which is derived from Maa and very similar to the language of the Maasai.

 

Website: Dietmar Temps, photography

Blog: Dietmar Temps, travel blog

..dove sia aggrappano..

Castano Primo - Cascina Malpaga

Marzo 2024

 

Rolleiflex 3.5E

Schneider-Kreuznach Xenotar 75mm f3.5 + yellow filter

Fomapan 100

R09 Studio 1+31 x 10 min

Forte di Fenestrelle

09-09-2018

 

Oltre alla serie digitale ( flic.kr/s/aHsmsnW9Lv ) propongo la versione analogica che, secondo me, rende meglio la sensazione di oppressione mista ad appagamento per gli splendidi paesaggi.

 

Olympus OM-2n

OM Zuiko 21 f3,5 - OM Zuiko 35 f2,8 - OM Zuiko 50 f1,8 - OM Zuiko 100 f2,8

Fomapan 100

Dev. STudional 1+30 x 9 min

Busto Arsizio - scorcio urbano

Marzo 2023

 

Petri Color 35 D

C.C. Petri 40mm f2,8

Fomapan 100

Hydrofen 1+31 x 9 min

Finally looked like we might get a decent sky last night, so Jan the Pup and I hopped in the truck for a little drive. The sky didn;t develope as well as I had hoped but still kind of like the way this one turned out.

 

The Pup say;s he likes it better when you hit "L"

develope by me

photo by Katia Popovych

Fagnano Olona - Scorcio urbano

Giugno 2025

 

Rolleiflex 3,5E

Schneider-Kreuznach Xenotar 75mm f3.5 + filtro giallo -1

Fomapan 100

R09 Studio 1+31 x 10 min

Milano - Gallaratese

Dicembre 2023

 

Hasselblad 500 CM

Zeiss Distagon 50 mm f4 CT*

Rollei SuperPan 200

Bellini Hydrofen 1+30 x 10 min

Busto Arsizio - Scorcio Urbano

 

Rolleicord Vb

Schneider-Kreuznach Xenar 75mm f3.5

Fomapan 100@100

R09 Studio 1+31 x 10 min

Milano - scorcio urbano

Marzo 2023

 

Hasselblad SWC (1968)

Zeiss Biogon 38 mm f4,5

Kodak T-max 100

R09 Studio 1+30 x 10 min

Milano - scorcio urbano

Marzo 2023

 

Hasselblad SWC (1968)

Zeiss Biogon 38 mm f4,5

Kodak T-max 100

R09 Studio 1+30 x 10 min

back to reality... no onlookers, no photgraphers, just me posing infront of my bathroom mirror.

Sometimes feeling silly and sad becuse I am still to scared to get out of my closet.

 

fortunately I have all my wonderful Flickr-Friends... THANK YOU ALL for helping me to develope some self confidence.

 

Celine

Milano - CityLife

Febbraio 2022

 

Hasselblad 500 CM

Zeiss Planar 100 mm f3.5 CT*

Rollei SuperPan 200

Hydrofen 1+30 x 13 min

Busto Arsizio - scorcio urbano

Marzo 2023

 

Petri Color 35 D

C.C. Petri 40mm f2,8

Fomapan 100

Hydrofen 1+31 x 9 min

Busto Arsizio - Scorcio urbano

Maggio 2025

 

Olympus 35 RD

F.Zuiko 40mm f1,7 + Filtro giallo -1 stop

Kodak Eastman 5222

Bellini Hydrofen 1+39 x 5,30 min

Busto Arsizio - Scorcio urbano

Luglio 2021

 

FujiFilm GA645W - Super EBC Fujinon 45mm f4

Fomapan 100 - Hydrofen 1+39 x 8 min

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