View allAll Photos Tagged depthoffield

Woody helping me practice.

Fuji X-T10+KIPON BAVEYES EOS-FX x0,7+M42-EOS adapter+Carl Zeiss Planar 1.4/50 T* ZS

Canon EOS 600D

Canon 50mm f/1.8

 

Shutter speed: 1/8s

Aperture: f/2.5

ISO: 100

Focal length: 50mm

Gandía, helmikuu 2012

Water Droplet in the morning with a little reflection of the sun

The church of St. Michael and All Angels Ewyas Harold Herefordshire England UK

One of the many flowers in the walled garden area, at Attingham Park, Nr. Shrewsbury, Shropshire, a National Trust property.

should be like a barbed-wire fence: serving its purpose without obstructing the view.

Sophia Loren

 

Our crazy camping in Carpinteria, CA. Of course, we all got excited about the fence. Flikr addicts, we are. :-)

 

Happy Friday Everyone! Have a wonderful weekend.

Toy Fan at a carnival

Kaohsiung City

Taiwan

Nikkor 50mm F1.4 G AFS

Bokeh

Example usage

 

I'm about 1m from a tree I want in-focus. What focus distance, focal lengths and apertures can I use if I also want the far distance to be in focus?

 

From the graph I can see that the most extreme case would be 35mm at f/32, focused at 2m (the hyperfocal distance is double the nearest-sharp distance). Suppose f/16 is my limit - I could then only use a focal length up to 25mm. Of course, I could also choose to use 10mm at f/8, which would give me plenty of leeway. I just musn't go beyond 35mm at f/32

 

Reasons for creating the graph

 

Since I’m dabbling with landscapes at the moment, I want to know how close I can get to an object in the foreground while still keeping objects in the distance in focus. I've stuffed up a few photos by being too close to the foreground for the focal length I've chosen.

 

Most hyperfocal and DOF calculators I found weren't very useful at helping me choose a sensible focal length - they want me to choose one up-front.

 

Bearing this in mind I’ve drawn this relatively simple graph. It assumes that you’re using a 1.6x crop SLR and focusing at the hyperfocal distance. Using the graph you can simultaneously decide how close you can get to the foreground, a realistic focal length and a sensible aperture to use. You can also read the hyperfocal length from it too - it's double the nearest sharp distance.

 

From several articles and forum discussions I’ve realised that it can be better to use an aperture closer to f/8 than to f/32 because large f-numbers cause softer images overall, so ruling out the benefits of increased DOF. It is often a balancing act between the two.

 

I used equations from here: www.dofmaster.com/equations.html

 

There is a rose bush of considerable size next to my garbage cans. A few blooms are appearing this October.

Fake ancient coins

Deep depth of field photo taken on a point and shoot

Spotted this little fella in Padley Gorge near Grindleford in Doncaster.

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