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dd looking and often ridiculed, the Nintendo 64 controller is the only controller I know of that requires three hands to use. Players were required to undergo seven hours of surgery to attach a third arm, generally taken from Chinese prison camp inmates (Although later taken from chimpanzees after several tragic incidents where the transplanted arm retained some of the violent tendencies of its original owner). Unwillingness to submit to body modification is often credited as the primary reason for Nintendo’s lack of commercial success against the Sony Playstation, although many players reported many non-game related benefits to their newly installed third arms.
Actually, I like the N64 controller. It’s comfortable, and as long as you pretty much ignore the mostly useless D-Pad and L button, there’s nothing really wrong with it.
The full article is located here: www.mathpirate.net/log/2011/04/02/electric-curiosities-th...
We built a giant LED board, about 6.5x6.5 feet, with 900 LEDs using ping-pong balls as diffusers. It can play Conway's Game of Life, Pong, and Sketch mode that allows you to create a starting pattern for Life. We output board state information to a MIDI board that allows us to make music based on what is displayed. This gets interesting with Life, creating minimalist generative music.
See it in action here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu5ORo3Im1g
Thanks to Evil Mad Scientists for their Peggy 2.0, upon which we based the circuit for our project.
Renamed the temperature controller over to YATC (pronounced yahtzee
like the evil dice game). Here the temperature controller is in all
it's glory. Pricing is $50 assembled and $40 as a kit. This can make
any freezer run as a refrigerator at 2x the performance of the best
Energy Star refrigerator. We also use it for fermentations of yogurt,
kimchi, kombucha, bread and tempeh. It can easily be used for beer and
wine too. This is a must have for any homesteader. All the design
files that went into making this are completely open including
schematics, source, and board layout. Includes all necessary plugs and
custom laser cut acrylic enclosure.
Details and video here:
Another shot just testing out my Yongnuos. After taking a few shots at f/22 I realized how dirty my sensor is.
Strobist Info: One bare Yongnuo YN560-III overhead firing at 1/8 power.
Here's a project finished a couple months ago. I'm quite happy with how it turned out.
Built a simple wooden box and stained it white for a clean look while keeping most of the grain.
I used Seimitsu buttons, Crown 303 N joystick and Adafruit bluefruit-EZ key bluetooth controller chip.
At launch, the Dreamcast included a number of controllers beyond the standard controller. One of these was the Dreamcast Fishing Controller. Designed for use in fishing games, it was a motion sensitive controller preceding the Wii Remote. The controller features a reel, buttons, and an analog stick. It is compatible with six Dreamcast fishing games. The Fishing Controller was, in part, an effort by Sega to bring the variety of controls available in arcades to home gamers. It is also notable as an example of blending traditional and motion controls in a unique controller intended for a very specific genre of games, rather than in a generalist controller like the Wii Remote.
This low cost charger controller for under £20 gives better results than an expensive Morning Star £70 controller I had in my last van.
After checking levels and tightness of the connections at the battery and charge controller this week in March 2011, I noticed the pulsing equalization charge to the battery from the controller was 14.9 volts, I was a bit alarmed at such a high voltage at first, until I re-read the instruction manual, it stated that when the battery is fully charged and the ambient temperature is at zero or below, the controller will output nearly 15 volts in the equalisation mode for a short time before going into float mode of 13.8 volts. The equalisation mode will bring all cells in the battery bank up to the same charge level, so conditioning the battery. Seems to work as I have never had an Elecsol Carbon Fibre battery fail me in the last eleven years, the oldest battery being over ten years old, putting an old battery and new battery in parallel is supposed to be a no no, but it worked for me, and the charge controller seemed happy enough.
I am not sure just how happy my unregulated cheapo SMD 5050 LED lighting will be with a pulsating (PWM) line voltage/power, although if the sun is out I suppose I won’t be using the lights anyway.
see link
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NOW £11.50 from link below;-
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Hi Pete,
The SMD 5050 leds I have are the two quid variety from China, they have the tiny MB6S bridge rectifier so the led assembly connections are not polarity conscious, and a selection of resistors mounted on the pcb rear, but no voltage stabilisers, so they are rated at 12 volts only. Reading the forums some members have suggested that they should work up to 13.5 volts with not too much detriment to their longevity.
On a fully charged battery and when the controller is in the equalisation mode, the PWM frequency is fast enough not to effect the performance of the leds , i.e. no flickering can be detected, the battery would smooth things out as you remark, but the voltage at the battery terminals is still reading nearly 15 volts, not too good for my cheapo Chinese SMD 5050 leds.
I noticed as the cvan voltmeter was indicating 15 volts (verified) while the ammeter monitoring the controller output power, was cycling very quickly between 0.3 amps to 1.5 amps, now I know the ammeter will lag, but it looks to me as if the PWM is pulsing the power and not the voltage. If we get the same sunny conditions and zero ambient temperature later I will put my scope on the controller output to see what is actually happening.
I think you will find the 12 volt G4 LED types that stand up to 30 volts are the ones that cost upwards of £8 each not the 30 bob ones that I have – I know I’m a cheapskate -
Does anyone else have the combination of Solar Panel and the Cheapo Chinese LEDs ? and could check the battery voltage on a fully charged battery when the sun comes up?
Regards Terry
Nore about LEDs on link below.
www.caravantalk.org.uk/topic/44237-l-e-d-s-m-d-lights/pag...
A breadboard test of a DC motor controller. It works by PWM (Pulse-Width Modulation), using a TLC3704 comparator chip to generate a variable mark/space ratio square wave. This is then fed to a HUF75337 power MOSFET. There's a 5k pot in a box to control it.
DIY home laser show.
New improved version of PIC based controller for laser spirograph.
Now available for order.
gotta love the korg radias... but you also gotta love the nes controllers with usb adapters and an NES emulator running Zelds II The Adventures of Link on the big screen with too many speakers!
T.16000m modded
Wirering base
Hall magnet in place. This locks the movement of the wires in the handle. So no pulling the wires when the magnet is installed.
I soldered wires to the contact points for the 6 base buttons like this:
www.flickr.com/photos/dantdbv/34996968611/in/album-721576...
And managed to short out all of them and had to use a sharp knife point to break all the unwanted connections.
Another solution is to scrape of the paint from the traces leading to the connection points and solder the wire there. It retains the full use of the base buttons.
2014: On February 10, FAA launched a 10-day campaign to recruit air traffic controller trainees. Candidates had to have a high school diploma or three years work experience.
Quadrotor Flight Controller class at the HiTech STEM Lab at the East Columbia Branch of the HCLS. The purpose of the class is to introduce students to quadcopters through hand-on learning. The studets investigated the physics behind multirotor liftoff, stabilization, direction of flight, and landing the aircraft. Students worked in teams to assemble the
propulsion system and wire the flight controller and power system. Students honed their flight skills through a flight simulator before flight testing their builds in the final class.
Quadrotor Flight Controller class at the HiTech STEM Lab at the East Columbia Branch of the HCLS. The purpose of the class is to introduce students to quadcopters through hand-on learning. The studets investigated the physics behind multirotor liftoff, stabilization, direction of flight, and landing the aircraft. Students worked in teams to assemble the
propulsion system and wire the flight controller and power system. Students honed their flight skills through a flight simulator before flight testing their builds in the final class.
All up and running. Full analog, and digital control over pressure, up, down, flat, whatever. Use the mini joystick(can't really see it here) for full manual control to figure what works best for your shot profile, then use the controller to set this in auto. Press start, and the controller will duplicate your profile. Works perfectly. Can't really describe how it works, otherwise I might see it for sale by guys likeTerry Z.
I only say that because I fund all my experiments, and would like to someday get some of it back. This is in a funny little box made for travel, but In the shop is the start of a 3 group using this system all built in.
Also, due to sudden events here, my European trip is pushed back about a month.....
Quadrotor Flight Controller class at the HiTech STEM Lab at the East Columbia Branch of the HCLS. The purpose of the class is to introduce students to quadcopters through hand-on learning. The studets investigated the physics behind multirotor liftoff, stabilization, direction of flight, and landing the aircraft. Students worked in teams to assemble the
propulsion system and wire the flight controller and power system. Students honed their flight skills through a flight simulator before flight testing their builds in the final class.