View allAll Photos Tagged adjustable
At the Summer Showing Festival for breeds at Eaton Farm. Nov 5-7 2010.
Check me out on:
My website www.laurenbarkume.com
My blog
Latest update to the mount design. No need to remove the covers to adjust tension. These have actually become switch locks which when turned in, move the worm into position with the ring gear.
Turning them out a couple of turns allows the RA and DEC switches to be unlocked for balancing the OTA. Very nice, solid update.
Returned for adjustments because the buyer set up his NFE in the same way that I set up my bicycles -- stem as low as it can go. A 10cm stem on a size tiny NFE goes out about as far as the 10cm stem on the kit bike does, which means an off-the-shelf bag fouls the handlebars. So off with the 5cm fork crown stay and on with an 8cm one, which means that I needed to swap the fork leg stays with 3/8ths tubing and run the braces in to the center rails to triangulate the whole shebang.
NOW ON eBay r.ebay.com/JRcoHB
- See more at: loudbike.blogs.com/vintage_cycles_for_sale
92 honest-to-goodness rear wheel horsepower in a perfectly set-up package that weighs less than 300 pounds. Arguably the fastest DB1 in North America and likely the only one set-up for serious track day work.
Noted moto journalist, Chief Instructor at Yamaha Champions Riding School and Sport Riding Techniques author Nick Ienatsch rode the bike at Mosport last week and had this to say: "Buy it. My experience on Steve's DB-1 at Mosport couldn't have been more positive. He rolled it off the trailer Saturday morning, we rode the hell out of it all weekend, and he rode it back onto the trailer Sunday night. All Steve did was add gas. Bulletproof and extremely fun, surprisingly quick...probably the fourth-quickest lap time in the fast group at DOCC. The motor pulls strong, the bike sounds right and the chassis is sorted and composed at the limit. The problems? All the new sport bikes in the way during lapping!!"
The machine started out as a pretty tired and far removed from stock DB1 that was brought over from Europe by the previous owner and as such, it made an excellent candidate for a full-on hot-rod. The bike was completely stripped-down and I started on the process of renewing all the rolling chassis components and rebuilding the motor over a period of 22 months. The end result is an absolute riot on the race track – really sharp handling as would be expected with a platform as short as the DB1, but with excellent stability. With 93hp and 63ftlbs of torque, the little bike goes like a scalded cat. Given that the Montjuich cams are being used, I would have expected a more peaky delivery, but the Meyers Performance 790 kit beefed-up the bottom end significantly. As you can see by the dyno chart in the pics, peak torque is at 6,500rpm and there’s usable stuff as low as 5,500.
I’ve ridden the bike at the Ducati Owners Club events at Mosport in July 2013 and May 2014 as well as at NHIS in October 2013 - and have been amazed at how well the whole package worked at speed. The DB1 Is surprisingly comfortable and easy to ride fast – and absolutely gorgeous sounding. My log shows 6 hours of riding time on the motor and I just completed a full post-track day service.
Here are the specs on the build:
Chassis:
DB1 chassis, swing arm with new swing arm pin, motor mount spacers and steering head bearings / races
Custom battery box with a Shorai L-ion battery – also mounts the Kokusan ignitors, solenoid and new regulator
Custom mounts for Dyna 3-ohm coils
Custom oil cooler mount, Starlight hoses with Earls fittings
Custom oil cooler and feed/return adapters
Carbon fiber dash
Domino quick action throttle
Custom built Stadium shock with rebound + hi/lo speed compression adjustment
Rebuilt DB1 series Marzocchi M1Rs
PM 17” spun aluminum wheels with Pirelli Superbike Slicks (SC1 front and SC2 rear)
300mm EBC full floating rotors with Brembo P3034 calipers and Menani caliper adapters
Braided steel hydraulic lines
Custom rear caliper mount and Brembo racing 2-piston caliper
Milled footpeg hangers
AFAM lightweight front & rear sprockets
Brembo 996 brake and clutch pumps
Airtech bodywork (this is the first pull they did off the mold and is much lighter than normal
Paint by Peach Pit (Robbi Nigl)
Custom wiring harness
Aluminum & titanium fasteners throughout
loudbike open NCR replica exhaust in 304 stainless
Motor:
750 F1 (Montjuich) base with Meyers Performance 12:1 790cc kit
Lightened clutch basket, clutch housing, primaries, flywheel and clutch cover
JPrecision heads (Stage IV Pantah) with new valves, guides & seats
Montjuich ("P") cams with Bucchi adjustable pulleys – timing set at 102.5 degrees at lobe centers)
Malossi 41mm carbs
Modified Old Racing Spares cam end covers
Top-end lubrication via cam end cover feed
Exact Fit timing belts
New Kokusan pick-ups
Aluminum & Titanium fasteners throughout
Dyno tuned to 93hp and 63ftlbs of torque (I terminated the pulls at 8,500rpm, so there’s more on tap)
Please check out the dyno pull videos at www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tVaaTTa3jA&feature=share&... and www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5hU55YhUYY&feature=share&... . Note that I was still fooling around with jetting in the first video, so you can see the stumble as the motor came out of the lower rpm range. The final jetting set up has the motor pulling cleanly from 4,000rpm. The 2nd video is one of the heat cycle sessions as I was breaking the motor in. You can also track the progress of the build on my blog:
loudbike.blogs.com/loud_bike/2013/08/mosport-part-1-the-b...
loudbike.blogs.com/loud_bike/2013/07/1985-bimota-db1-race...
loudbike.blogs.com/loud_bike/2013/03/1985-bimota-db1-race...
loudbike.blogs.com/loud_bike/2012/12/the-bimota-db1.html
loudbike.blogs.com/loud_bike/2012/05/ducati-750-tt1-and-b...
loudbike.blogs.com/loud_bike/2011/12/winter-2011-loudbike...
And finally, there are hi-rez copies of the pics used in this listing at: www.flickr.com/photos/loudbike/sets/72157634524192692/ To get to the hi-rez images, select one and then click on the icon in the lower right of the page (three white dots) and select view all sizes from the drop-down menu.
There are a few surface cracks developing in the bodywork that are most visible in the hi-rez pics (it’s inevitable; the bodywork is paper-thin except in the main support area between the four mounting studs).
This is a fully-sorted track bike that’s ready to go. Add gas, tickle the carbs, push the starter button and have at it!
This is a rare and unique machine. Consider that a standard DB1 in decent shape will fetch north of $19k: add 30 reliable HP, knock almost 60lbs off the curb weight, upgrade the wheels, suspension & brakes and you get a sense for what it would cost to build this machine. Reserve has been set accordingly.
I'm happy to assisting world-wide shipping. My customers have used the following companies with very good results:
North American shipments:
Adam or Jacqui
TFX International Specialized Vehicle Transport
11 City View Drive
Etobicoke. ON M9W 5A5
Canada
Phone 416.243.8531
Fax 416.243.8886
Mackie Auto Transport
933 Bloor St. W.
Oshawa, ON, Canada L1J 5Y7
1-905-728-2400
e-mail: motorcyclemoves@mackiegroup.com
International shipments:
Tony or Amanda
Inter-Par Logistics Inc.
3845 Nashua Drive
Mississauga, ON L4V 1R3
Tel.: 905-678-1288
Fax: 905-678-1289
e-mail: tl@inter-par.com or sc@inter-par.com
Questions? Please feel free to send me an email at steve@loudbike.com - or you can call me anytime at 1-613-230-7448.
Made by weaving gutted paracord and a buckle from an old watchband. Still room for tweaking and improvement, but functional nonetheless...
On the occasion of my x0th birthday, here is one from many years earlier. I would guess late '70s when I was 20-something. Boy oh boy, I was skinny.
The photo was taken on film by one of my best loved brothers and digitized much later. (Notice that there is no exposure information in the EXIF data?)
At the time Bass Lake in Ontario (at least my Bass Lake) was 30' deep, with a further arm-length of organic sludge on the bottom. At the time I could breath hold dive all the way down to the bottom and still have some time left over to explore that layer a little. The water was quite clear, populated with bass and carp to about 1/3 of the way down and not overly subject to algae blooms in the spring and summer. I suspect it is mostly dead by now, as that trend was well established by the mid '80s.
Unique to Kriega products - allows one handed adjustment on the fly.
Mostly alloy, except for the thumb hook (I wish they used alloy for that as well)
We fabricate the female portion of the adjuster in house. The male portion is a Dave Kirk design. We have them made in stainless for us by Paragon Machine Works.
During the Thursday night Envoy event during Photocon this year the band HeartSpace performed to give folks a chance to practice concert photography.
Paratroopers assigned to Company A, 2nd Battalion, 503rd Infantry Regiment, 173rd Airborne Brigade, adjust communications equipment, May 15, at Vaziani Training Area during Exercise Noble Partner. The exercise is happening May 11 to 26 and includes approximately 1300 participants from the U.S., Georgia and the U.K. The exercise is a reoccurring training event that takes place at Vaziani Training Area, Georgia. Noble Partner 16 is a critical part of Georgia's training for its contribution of a light infantry company to the NATO Response Force (NRF) and enhances Georgian territorial self-defense capability. (Photo by Sgt. Daniel Cole, U.S. Army Europe Public Affairs)
Stocking adjustments are so feminine, so sensual and so much fun. I love doing them and they never fail to make me feel truly happy and bring a joyful smile to my face.
Taken 2140UT. Newcastle upon Tyne, UK. Sky-Watcher Explorer 200P telescope. Canon 1200D camera. Prime focus. ISO-100. 1/200th second exposure. Cropped using Irfanview. Wavelets applied using Registax 6. Colour Curves adjusted using GIMP 2.8.
Prepping Nikon Picture Control types for use:
1. Using the Picture Control Utility in View NX2, for each Picture Control create a variant, with the following settings, (adjustments set to Manual in the Picture Control utility):-
Sharpening = auto
Contrast / Brightness = auto
Saturation = auto.
Note you first click the "Manual" button (to enable customisation) then proceed as follows
2. For each Picture Control type, name each (and save) as follows:-
Standard = as "Standard auto" variant
Portrait = "Portrait auto"
Etc. so that you have an auto variant for each Picture Control type, to get you started using them, in VNX2.
You can Export these pre-sets to your camera via SD card, refer to the help (ticked on the schematic.)
Once you have saved all the 'Auto' variants for each Picture Control type, then you can start to process your NEFs, using these saved custom settings. You can do this in the field when out shooting, or post the shoot, in VNX2 / CNX2.
Double click a NEF to bring it into the Edit window - then view the camera applied Picture Control type, then decide if you want to change / experiment.
You will or should notice a dramatic improvement in quality.
You will most often find very little extra sharpening is required.
N.B. Don't start messing around with curve customisation, until you know what you're doing and have built up experience with the customisation I've outlined at the top of this posting.
The Dow-Mac works at Quedgeley south of Gloucester. Staff can be seen adjusting the straps that secure the loads of concrete sleepers on a pair of sturgeon wagons. My father, who worked for the WR civil engineers, was trained to be able to carry out load examination on these wagons to ensure they were safe to travel, 10/7/85
Previous: Decoding the raw files
The goal at this stage is to stretch the histogram as wide as possible across the the available dynamic range of the output image. For this picture, the value of 1.2 does it; I simply go ahead and type it into the Exposure Value box. Alternatively, I could slide the slider, but I am used enough to the EV numbers that I can just dial the approximate number right away, and then adjust it with a couple clicks on either side of the slider, if it is not right — that saves me mouse travel.
If you don't know right away how much to adjust the exposure value, move the slider to the right until the image becomes overxposed (the second line from the bottom, now showing 0.0% will show a non-zero number), and the bright spots on the image will start looking awful. Then step back until the number becomes zero again. Then, look at the histogram and if it has a sharp spike at the bright edge, step back some more. Too many pixels aggregating at the bright edge, even though not technically overexposed, will make the picture look bland. Keep moving away from the threshold of overexposure until the histogram tapers off smoothly, as the blue histogram does in the above image. That is not always possible, but a properly exposed image should allow you to do shape the histogram this way.
Did I tell you to enable the histogram view while taking the pictures? This is the reason why. This is how the histogram should have looked in the camera while the picture was taken, but I was almost facing the sun when I took it and could not see it too well. Another bit of advice following from this:
- have a piece of dark fabric to throw over your head when the ambient light is too bright
And something I came to take for granted:
- use the lens hood
This picture came out reasonably well in part because the camera had the lens hood on it. Without it, shooting at such a close angle to the sun would produce unsightly reflexes. I never take the hood off, by the way. It improves contrast in any light (if only a bit), and it protects the lens from bumping into things; I have never had to wipe my fingerprints from this lens because the hood eliminates the possibility of accidental contact.
The procedure for normalising the highlights I just described is likely to affect the darks. So, once satisfied with the highlights (in this case, in the sky), check the bottom of the range by pushing the Indicate button in the underexposed values row. What do we see here? It's looking pretty good. The only severely underexposed area is the shadow under the car, which is not important. That spot can be as dark as a black hole, for all I care. There is also an insignificant number of underexposed values elsewhere in the image — 0.7% including the shadow under the car; that's close to nothing, so whe can move on to the next stage.
The image still does not look right. The highlights in the sky are fine, but the mountain looks as if it was painted in ink. The darks are darker than they should be. That is because the standard gamma curve, which would work well with a picture shot in the daylight, is too shallow to reproduce the sunset lighting correctly.