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Another upload of the same pic using Bridge /Photoshop CC workflow instead of Lightroom/Photoshop CC workflow. Giving better colours? Strange!
A revisit of the XF90 multi-stitch pano of the other day with improved workflow...
"Quite a large file! This is a stitched panorama, just to show that the XF90 can in fact truly do wide angle landscapes! Yes it's a do everything lens (macro test pending).
I don't really do "classic wide vistas" with my camera - I've been in the mountains too many years and seen too many stunning corners of the UK / world mountains to consider capturing the entirety of a view in an image...that said...if I can use the XF90 for that purpose then the detail it will capture will be sublime.
The light on Saturday evening was sublime. I actually missed the best clouds (playing cricket with Lewis!) but was happy with capturing these. This was the view from the campervan at Castlerigg Hall campsite - a gem of a site.
I stitched the photo using Affinity Photo - a very cost effective and powerful alternative to the Adobe machine.
I've not really mastered the workflow yet so there's a few things I'll improve on with #2, so please ignore any blown highlights etc etc.
I hope this image captures some of the beauty of the scene I witnessed."
New photoshop workflow based on some ideas from Vermeer's painting techniques.
Compare with www.flickr.com/photos/dougr/9511082879
Best viewed *big* using a color corrected browser (Safari or Firefox). Check out my best stuff at www.pacificaphoto.net and follow my new work on twitter @doug_r
This full, free video tutorial is now available for you to download and watch! It shows how to create this image, from beginning to end, and it includes the raw files and my luminance mask action set!
- I have a small request -
If you've enjoyed my materials and found them useful, please can you share the link below to others who you think will also enjoy them.
By doing so you will be helping to support this resource and helping it to grow. The more interest/demand I have in these workflows the more of them I can make.
Thank you and I hope enjoy this new video
www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/09/08/full-free-post-pr...
I’m often asked how I create my AI photography images—especially by those using the same tools but getting very different results. Here’s a brief tutorial outlining my process for crafting refined AI visuals:
1.Start with a Line Sketch
Create a clean line drawing of your subject. Scan it at a minimum of 300 dpi for optimal clarity—this resolution consistently yields the best results.
2.Recover with AI Photo Tool
Use an AI photo recovery tool to transform your sketch into a base image. I typically select the “Severe” setting to maximize structural fidelity.
3.Enhance with AI Image Tool
Apply an AI image enhancement tool to refine detail. I prefer Version 2 with a 6-pass setting and the “Photography” filter for depth and realism.
4.Retouch for Precision
Use a photography retouch tool to eliminate blemishes, wrinkles, extra fingers, or other AI-generated artifacts. Zoom in closely to catch subtle errors. The lasso tool offers excellent control once mastered.
5.Smooth with Light Enhancement
Apply a light-setting enhancement to correct any smearing from the retouch phase. This step improves lighting, restores clarity, and sharpens the final image.
6.Finalize with Branding
Add your watermark or company symbol to complete the piece and protect your creative identity.
Workshop "workflow/Photoshop/Lightroom"
Vrijdag 21 september
10:00-13:00
50.00
Nog 2 plekken vrij voor deze zeer informatieve workshop aanstaande vrijdag.
Veel tips en technieken voor een snelle en professionele retouch workflow.
Werken met kleurkanalen, unieke tints zelf maken, foto's van zero naar hero brengen in Photoshop, werken met focus verloop, achtergronden smooth maken, huid en digitale make-up, kleur manipulatie, automatiseren van retouching processing binnen Photoshop, hyperverscherping, beste plugins en veel meer
Zie het gehele programma op www.fotografie-workshops.nl
Inschrijven via info at Frankdoorhof punt com
FREE Gear Guide ebook
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infiniteworldphotography.com/free-gift-gear-guide
Will reveal the exact equipment and tools that I use to create my fine art nature images. Will contain helpful information for each item, including images, comments, tips, pros and cons, and more!
FORETHOUGHT IS A REQUIREMENT for wildlife photography. You MUST learn to think ahead, anticipate, plan, and generally just use your darn brain. This is especially true of your camera settings. Many beginners at wildlife photography don’t understand the importance of choosing the proper balance of Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO.
With wildlife, like any other photography subject, you have the ability to creatively choose your settings depending on the result you’re looking to achieve. In 99% of the cases, I am trying to achieve a sharp, clear exposure of the subject, with most of it appearing in focus. This means that, most of the time, my two biggest concerns are the shutter speed and aperture. As a side note, 99.9% of the time, I shoot in Manual mode. I would say 100% of the time, but I don’t like rules :) SEE BOTTOM OF POST FOR A PRO TIP REGARDING MANUAL MODE
When shooting Eagles in flight, I chose an f/8 aperture to give a little more depth of field, because they are large, and were often flying relatively close. I chose 1/2500th /sec shutter speed because it’s a good speed to start with for freezing flight motion. After setting the aperture and shutter speed, I then set the ISO to the necessary value to get the exposure I was looking for. When setting all of this up, I do a few test shots, referring to my camera’s luminosity histogram and separate RGB histograms to see if the exposure looks good, then proceed to shoot. Since I shoot in Manual, I keep an eye on the light and make tweaks and test shots occasionally to be sure my exposure is still correct.
In summary, UNDERSTAND your settings, and pick them INTELLIGENTLY, with FORETHOUGHT.
PRO TIP: Use custom user settings (on some Canon bodies, the C1, C2, C3) as “extra Manual modes” ...** be sure to set the global option that allows the camera to auto-save all changes to those dials **. On C1, adjust your settings for shooting a particular subject, or type of subject - perhaps an eagle in flight. Then, on C2, you can put some other settings in for a different subject - perhaps for eagles that are perched in a tree branch under different light. Then you can switch from eagles in flight in one lighting, to the ones perched in the tree, within a matter of 2 seconds, by turning the dial from C1 to C2, and back. Similarly, you could set C1 settings for landscape, C2 for wildlife, C3 for macro, etc.
I appreciate all comments, faves, and follows.
Matthew
If you’re interested in nature photography, please check out my youtube channel!
www.youtube.com/channel/UC-nMVA45F8kWmJC0dwHkAkw
Editing Workflow Cheat Sheet:
Learn my workflow from import to export!
Workflow Cheat Sheet and Newsletter
YOUTUBE CHANNEL: Nature Photography Mastery Academy™™
FREE CONTENT / BLOG: Nature Photography Mastery Academy™
PORTFOLIO WEBSITE: Infinite World Photography™
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©Matthew Schwartz, All Rights Reserved.
This image is protected by Copyright, and is not available for use on websites, blogs, videos, or any other media without the explicit written permission of the photographer.
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Probably the question that I get asked more than any other is about my photography workflow. I actually feel like my photography workflow is pretty simple so I thought I'd write up a brief post documenting my process all the way from photo capture to photo publishing. Feel free to ask any questions if you need me to elaborate on things.
1. Step one, capture the image: I carry my Canon 5D and 5 lenses (24mm, 14mm, 50mm, 135mm, 100mm macro) with me in a backpack every where I go. I take advantage of the routine time wasted in a day to turn that time into photography. Walking to and from the BART train. Going out for lunch. Waiting in line somewhere. All kinds of everyday moments become photographic opportunities.
Of course I also go out on specific photowalks all the time. Sometimes these are weekend trips away from home, other times they are just evenings out shooting with friends or with my wife. I use 2 8GB SanDisk cards.
To learn more about what is in my camera bag you can read this post here.
2. Step two, transfer the image to the computer: Here I use a high speed USB card reader. All card readers are not created equal. Spend the extra few bucks and get a high speed reader. Every day or other day I use my card reader to offload images on my camera card to my computer. In my case when I plug in my card reader Canon's "Camera Window" software automatically loads. This software then pulls all of my images off of my CF card and puts them into folders on my computer titled by date taken. After my images are transferred to my MacBook Pro I then put the card back in the camera and delete the images off of it. If I'm on an all day shoot I'll take breaks during my day (coffee, lunnch, etc.) to take a moment and clear out my cards.
Bonus Link: 13 Tips for Using and Caring for Memory Cards.
3. Step three, sort photos: Here I open the folder that has all of the RAW files from a given day's images using Adobe's Bridge software. I create a subfolder in the dated folder called "maybe." I go through the day's photographs and I drag anything that I think might have potential into the "maybe" folder.
4. Step four, first pass processing using Adobe Camera RAW: My next step is to open all images in a day's maybe folder using Adobe Camera RAW (comes with both Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom). You simply select all of the images in your maybe folder, right click, and select "Open in Camera RAW." This is where 95% of my photo processing is done.
With camera RAW you can adjust the contrast of a photo, the exposure of a photo, the saturation of a photo. You can adjust the temperature of a photo (the reason why some white lights are sulfur yellow and other white lights are soft blue), you can adjust the vignette (black or white edges around a photo), fill lighting, etc. Adobe Camera RAW uses sliders to make these adjustments and it is easy as pie.
After I get an individual image to where I want it I will use the "Save" button in camera RAW to save that finished photo as a JPG in a new folder "Finished Images."
After I process my first pass imagery I move that date's archive folder off my Mac and onto my drobo to back it up and store it more safely. Note, none of my RAW files are ever saved as processed. I consider my RAW files my negatives and always want to be able to go back to them and process from scratch if need be.
5. Step five, 2nd pass processing: Once I've finished my first pass processing I will point Bridge to the "finished images" folder. Here I will look at each finished JPG image in as large a format as possible looking for photos that need additional work. Typically less than 10% of my photos need additional work beyond camera RAW.
The type of work here is all done in Photoshop. As I go through the images I look for a few things consistently. Images that need slight sharpening. Images that have dust spots on them that need to be fixed with the cloning tool in Photoshop. Images that could benefit from dodging or burning, etc. As I see an image in Bridge that needs additional fine tuning I will double click on the image in Photoshop, make my edits, save the file and close it.
6. Step six, keywording: My next step is to keyword all of my photos using Adobe Bridge. Adobe Bridge has pretty powerful keywording capabilities. I can batch and bulk keyword photos. I might start out, for instance, keywording every single photo I just processed as "Las Vegas" "DMU Las Vegas Meetup 2008" "Vegas". From there I then might go through sub batches and keyword them (say Caeser's or Wynn or Venetian). From there I might then bulk keyword certain frequently used attributes (neon, mannequin, graffiti, night, etc.). And then I go through each image individually adding any final keywords image by image.
Keywording is important because these keywords will be automatically read as tags by sites like Flickr and Zooomr. It also allows you better to search your finished imagery in the future on your computer. The Importance of Keywording Your Photos.
7. Step seven, geotagging: Here I use a free program called Geotagger. Geotagger works with Google Earth and allows you to pinpoint a spot on the planet using Google Earth and then drag and drop any images from that location onto the program and geotags them with that coordinate. Geotagger only works for the Mac but there are lots of other free geotagging programs like Geotagger out there that work with Windows. When you geotag your photos at the file level both Flickr and Zooomr automatically add them to the meta data on your photo and place them on their site maps.
8. Step eight, sort finished photos into A or B to be uploaded folders: My next step is to go through my imagery and basically sort 80/20. What I feel are my strongest 20% go into a folder "B." The rest go into a folder "C."
9. Step nine, publish: I publish twice a day usually but this is by no means a hard and fast rule. Once in the morning and once in the evening. I typically publish 10-15 photos at a time selected mostly at random from my growing pool of "to be uploadeds."
I make sure that when I upload these 10 or 15 shots in a batch that the "B" shots are uploaded last as Flickr and Zooomr only highlight the last 5 shots that you upload in an upload batch. I want these to be what I feel are my better images.
And that's it. I'm sure that there are more efficient ways that I could be processing my imagery but this has worked for me for a while now. Feel free to ask any questions as the above might sound a bit complicated to some.
Additional reading: Thomas Hawk's Principles and Guidelines for the Modern Photowalker . Brian Auer's Your Guide to Adobe Bridge: Useful Tips and Tricks.
More comments and a conversation about this post over at FriendFeed.
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Here is a little behind-the-scenes of my creative process. With every one of my designs I try to flush things out early on with quick sketches and color studies before diving into generating the assets.
This is an example of my Signalera piece, where I started with a very quick sketch of composition, then a study in Illustrator, and the final piece.
You can see a larger version right here.
©2008 James White. All rights reserved.
About 19 Lifestyle-Film Lightroom & Camera Raw Presets:
19 Lifestyle-Film Lightroom & Camera Raw Presets is the first pack of professional Lightroom Presets perfect for photographers and graphic designers. All they have been created with precise calibration adjustments and clean arrangement to bring your images to life using powerful tools & professional methods.
Very important features:
19 Premium Presets tested in Lightroom & Camera Raw
Professional and unique result achievable in one click
100% non-destructive, we have been tasted them on different photos, and the results is awesome
Easy to use, just one click + Instalation file + powerful support if needed
This presets don’t change the WB (White Balance) of your image, they work with color, exposure, contrast, whites, blacks etc. This means that if your WB is okay, they do almost the same effect as on the preview image, and this is awesome.
No camera calibration profiles needed
Included 19 Lifestyle-Film Lightroom & Camera Raw Presets
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 01A
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 01A –
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HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 02B -
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HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 03C
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 03C –
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HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 04D
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 04D –
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HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 05E
HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 05E -
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HUBA-Lifestyle-Film 06F
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The file type: .lrtemplate & .xmp
Designed to be used with: DNG,PSD, RAW, JPG, TIFF
Lightroom & Camera Raw: 4.x or above
Helpful Instalation file added
My 'RAW 101' Workflow Video Tutorial is now available for Pre-Order!
Early adopters save 20%.
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Do you get intimidated or overwhelmed by complicated image editing software? Relax. I’m here to walk you through the process step-by-step. By the time you’ve watched this series of video tutorials you’ll be processing your images with confidence.