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~Theodore Roethke
So not every jump is a successful one! This was one of his tries at a 360 and while he almost made it the whole way around, I think he hit more of a 270! Still a great effort and I was able to get this great shot!
Thanks for all of your support in this series my friends, and enjoy your weekends!
I don't mind invitations, but please no big, shiny, flashing, glitter graphics, they will be deleted. Also, please contact me if you would like to use my pictures for any reason, as all rights are reserved. Thanks!
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Probably the question that I get asked more than any other is about my photography workflow. I actually feel like my photography workflow is pretty simple so I thought I'd write up a brief post documenting my process all the way from photo capture to photo publishing. Feel free to ask any questions if you need me to elaborate on things.
1. Step one, capture the image: I carry my Canon 5D and 5 lenses (24mm, 14mm, 50mm, 135mm, 100mm macro) with me in a backpack every where I go. I take advantage of the routine time wasted in a day to turn that time into photography. Walking to and from the BART train. Going out for lunch. Waiting in line somewhere. All kinds of everyday moments become photographic opportunities.
Of course I also go out on specific photowalks all the time. Sometimes these are weekend trips away from home, other times they are just evenings out shooting with friends or with my wife. I use 2 8GB SanDisk cards.
To learn more about what is in my camera bag you can read this post here.
2. Step two, transfer the image to the computer: Here I use a high speed USB card reader. All card readers are not created equal. Spend the extra few bucks and get a high speed reader. Every day or other day I use my card reader to offload images on my camera card to my computer. In my case when I plug in my card reader Canon's "Camera Window" software automatically loads. This software then pulls all of my images off of my CF card and puts them into folders on my computer titled by date taken. After my images are transferred to my MacBook Pro I then put the card back in the camera and delete the images off of it. If I'm on an all day shoot I'll take breaks during my day (coffee, lunnch, etc.) to take a moment and clear out my cards.
Bonus Link: 13 Tips for Using and Caring for Memory Cards.
3. Step three, sort photos: Here I open the folder that has all of the RAW files from a given day's images using Adobe's Bridge software. I create a subfolder in the dated folder called "maybe." I go through the day's photographs and I drag anything that I think might have potential into the "maybe" folder.
4. Step four, first pass processing using Adobe Camera RAW: My next step is to open all images in a day's maybe folder using Adobe Camera RAW (comes with both Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom). You simply select all of the images in your maybe folder, right click, and select "Open in Camera RAW." This is where 95% of my photo processing is done.
With camera RAW you can adjust the contrast of a photo, the exposure of a photo, the saturation of a photo. You can adjust the temperature of a photo (the reason why some white lights are sulfur yellow and other white lights are soft blue), you can adjust the vignette (black or white edges around a photo), fill lighting, etc. Adobe Camera RAW uses sliders to make these adjustments and it is easy as pie.
After I get an individual image to where I want it I will use the "Save" button in camera RAW to save that finished photo as a JPG in a new folder "Finished Images."
After I process my first pass imagery I move that date's archive folder off my Mac and onto my drobo to back it up and store it more safely. Note, none of my RAW files are ever saved as processed. I consider my RAW files my negatives and always want to be able to go back to them and process from scratch if need be.
5. Step five, 2nd pass processing: Once I've finished my first pass processing I will point Bridge to the "finished images" folder. Here I will look at each finished JPG image in as large a format as possible looking for photos that need additional work. Typically less than 10% of my photos need additional work beyond camera RAW.
The type of work here is all done in Photoshop. As I go through the images I look for a few things consistently. Images that need slight sharpening. Images that have dust spots on them that need to be fixed with the cloning tool in Photoshop. Images that could benefit from dodging or burning, etc. As I see an image in Bridge that needs additional fine tuning I will double click on the image in Photoshop, make my edits, save the file and close it.
6. Step six, keywording: My next step is to keyword all of my photos using Adobe Bridge. Adobe Bridge has pretty powerful keywording capabilities. I can batch and bulk keyword photos. I might start out, for instance, keywording every single photo I just processed as "Las Vegas" "DMU Las Vegas Meetup 2008" "Vegas". From there I then might go through sub batches and keyword them (say Caeser's or Wynn or Venetian). From there I might then bulk keyword certain frequently used attributes (neon, mannequin, graffiti, night, etc.). And then I go through each image individually adding any final keywords image by image.
Keywording is important because these keywords will be automatically read as tags by sites like Flickr and Zooomr. It also allows you better to search your finished imagery in the future on your computer. The Importance of Keywording Your Photos.
7. Step seven, geotagging: Here I use a free program called Geotagger. Geotagger works with Google Earth and allows you to pinpoint a spot on the planet using Google Earth and then drag and drop any images from that location onto the program and geotags them with that coordinate. Geotagger only works for the Mac but there are lots of other free geotagging programs like Geotagger out there that work with Windows. When you geotag your photos at the file level both Flickr and Zooomr automatically add them to the meta data on your photo and place them on their site maps.
8. Step eight, sort finished photos into A or B to be uploaded folders: My next step is to go through my imagery and basically sort 80/20. What I feel are my strongest 20% go into a folder "B." The rest go into a folder "C."
9. Step nine, publish: I publish twice a day usually but this is by no means a hard and fast rule. Once in the morning and once in the evening. I typically publish 10-15 photos at a time selected mostly at random from my growing pool of "to be uploadeds."
I make sure that when I upload these 10 or 15 shots in a batch that the "B" shots are uploaded last as Flickr and Zooomr only highlight the last 5 shots that you upload in an upload batch. I want these to be what I feel are my better images.
And that's it. I'm sure that there are more efficient ways that I could be processing my imagery but this has worked for me for a while now. Feel free to ask any questions as the above might sound a bit complicated to some.
Additional reading: Thomas Hawk's Principles and Guidelines for the Modern Photowalker . Brian Auer's Your Guide to Adobe Bridge: Useful Tips and Tricks.
More comments and a conversation about this post over at FriendFeed.
I’m often asked how I create my AI photography images—especially by those using the same tools but getting very different results. Here’s a brief tutorial outlining my process for crafting refined AI visuals:
1.Start with a Line Sketch
Create a clean line drawing of your subject. Scan it at a minimum of 300 dpi for optimal clarity—this resolution consistently yields the best results.
2.Recover with AI Photo Tool
Use an AI photo recovery tool to transform your sketch into a base image. I typically select the “Severe” setting to maximize structural fidelity.
3.Enhance with AI Image Tool
Apply an AI image enhancement tool to refine detail. I prefer Version 2 with a 6-pass setting and the “Photography” filter for depth and realism.
4.Retouch for Precision
Use a photography retouch tool to eliminate blemishes, wrinkles, extra fingers, or other AI-generated artifacts. Zoom in closely to catch subtle errors. The lasso tool offers excellent control once mastered.
5.Smooth with Light Enhancement
Apply a light-setting enhancement to correct any smearing from the retouch phase. This step improves lighting, restores clarity, and sharpens the final image.
6.Finalize with Branding
Add your watermark or company symbol to complete the piece and protect your creative identity.
© Ben Heine || Facebook || Twitter || www.benheine.com
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A funny mule I found in Mykonos, Greece.
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For more information about my art: info@benheine.com
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You Talkin' to Me?
A poem by Katie Gabrielle
Are you talking to me?
With your nose up in the air
Do you think that I care
What you got to say
If you can't say something
Nice to me
Then please go away.
I may be an ass
Or a mule in donkey's guise
But I have a heart that cries
Just take a look at my eyes
Are you talking to me?
Then say something sweet
Talk about candy and music
That's sweet!
Don't try to be cool
Because I know better
Talking is like living
It's all in the giving.
Are you talking to me?
Then say something good
Then maybe I 'll say
Something worth saying
And that's all I gotta say!
I'm just a mule in donkey's
Guise. Some call me an
Ass but I know better.
Are you talking to me?
Door een aangepaste workflow in PS blijkt er nog meer in mijn foto's te zitten dan ik voor mogelijk hield. Ik ben verbaasd wat er nog tevoorschijn komt, altijd op dezelfde manier werken doet je dus soms tekort.
Prettige jaarwisseling
Full Moon over Austin. Afocal iPhone 6s plus with a Questar 3.5" telescope with a Brandon 24mm eyepiece. iPhone 6s hand held and steadied with my eyepice cap adapter on 2015-10-27 05:30 UT. 12 TIFF images from Camera+ app stacked and processed in Lynkeos with final adjustments in Photoshop. Compare this to the following image taken with a large sensor camera at prime focus process with a similar workflow.
Here is a little behind-the-scenes of my creative process. With every one of my designs I try to flush things out early on with quick sketches and color studies before diving into generating the assets.
This is an example of my Signalera piece, where I started with a very quick sketch of composition, then a study in Illustrator, and the final piece.
You can see a larger version right here.
©2008 James White. All rights reserved.
Unglaublich wie schnell die Kreuzspinne ihr Netz baute, ich bin sehr froh das mir diese Aufnahme gelungen ist.
Unbelievable how quickly the cross spider built her net. I am very glad that this picture has succeeded me.
My 'RAW 101' Workflow Video Tutorial is now available for Pre-Order!
Early adopters save 20%.
www.fototripper.com/product/raw-processing-workflow-for-l...
Do you get intimidated or overwhelmed by complicated image editing software? Relax. I’m here to walk you through the process step-by-step. By the time you’ve watched this series of video tutorials you’ll be processing your images with confidence.
Loading up the Yashica Electro 35 with some Kentmere 400. Going B&W for a home development workflow.
Edited this one in CS6 with nothing more than a pass of noise cancelation, slight curves adjustment, and sharpening on only the red and green channel.
First, Happy Thanksgiving To Everyone. Second DO NO TRY THIS AT HOME.
The following is how I edit my photos from my camera to Flickr.
1. Take an insane amount of photos of everything that you see in burst mode. I shoot everything in raw and large jpeg. I usually take a burst of 3 photos for every subject. For something like a marathon, my trip to San Francisco, or my day at the Lone Star Rally that would translate to 5000 photos. I took close to 30,000 photos in Japan. If we hadn't had 2 typhoons move through while I was there it would have been closer to 50,000. If you have quit laughing now please read on.
2. I transfer the 64 gb sd cards to my Windows 7 desktop. I usually do this one card at a time since I never have more than a 100 gb of storage left.
3. After uploading a sd card I go though and delete each out of focus shot or anything that just looks really off. Hopefully I cleared up enough room to upload another card. If not I try to see what I can part with and delete that. Eventually I will get everything into my Windows photo editor. The editor only sees jpegs and I have to move the cards over to my Mabook Pro in order to see the raw files.
4. The next step is to pick the best photo out of each burst. Sometimes the tired X-T1 misses every shot in a burst but really that is mostly my fault.
5. Go through the best shots and decide what to actually keep and edit in Lightroom. I try to remember that Lightroom can work wonders on some photos. Hopefully, I culled heavily but that is another problem that I am working on.
6. Rename all of the keeper photos so that I can find them in Lightroom. I am sure that there is an easy way to do this. This actually takes a really long time for me.
7. Transfer all of the photos to be edited onto another sd card.
8. Finally, turn on the Macbook Pro and import all of the photos into Lightroom.
9. Apply some sort of edit to the first photo and hopefully that can be applied to most of the photos in the upload.
10. Go back over every photo and make any minor adjustments that are necessary.
11. Go back over the photos one last time and cull any if necessary.
12. Finally, they can be uploaded to Flickr.
And that is how not to do it. (I actually really, really do it this way. It is possible that I even left a step or two out.)
This is not an image I would normally post, but having decided a while ago to document my workflow (I’m an engineer…. I like to document how things work!), I thought it might be useful to post it and see if it draws any comments. I am often curious about what other folks do and sometimes think my own workflow is somewhat over complex.
I used the following:
•Adobe Bridge CC; ou can get this with a FREE Adobe CC subscription. I use it to provide a centralized way of browsing and managing my files and launching all my other applications.
•DxO PhotoLab; for me the best RAW developer out there, and I’ve tried most of them.
•PENX DCU; if I really must develop using Pixel Shift, I sometimes use this. However, I really don’t like it. Please DxO, give me Pixel Shift support!!
•ON1 Photo 2017; there are some nice filters in here. I had high hopes that the RAW developer would be awesome, but its simply not a patch on DxO, especially now DxO have finally added selective development.
•AuroraHDR; I’m really on the fence with HDR packages. This seems to offer good results and a lot of control, but I’ve only been using it for a few days.
•Afinity Photo; I ditched my Adobe subscription in favour of using Affinity Photo. It is excellent value for money, powerful and extremely stable.
•NIK filters; barely ever uses them as ON1 filters are so much better.
Copyright © Dave Sexton. All Rights Reserved.
This image is protected under international copyright laws and agreements. No part of the image or the Flickr Photostream to which it belongs may be reproduced, stored in retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the Copyright owner’s prior permission.
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PLEASE NO SELF-PROMOTION or CRAPPY AWARDS. Thanks.
Digital blending or DRI or Exposure blending.
NO HDR.
First day of work after nice and sweet holidays.
I'm back in urban flux, trafic, polution and stress.
Work= End of contemplation. End of liberty.
This photo shows how we miss the beauty of the world and nature when we work as robots.
Drivers in foreground drive so fast they can't see beautiful landscapes in background.
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