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Last weekend I convinced my wife to take pictures of her. It is the first time I experimented with low key pictures. For a real low key it seems there is to much light but I and she like it.
All pictures done in the living room. :-)
Strobist info: Selfmade striplights camera left and camera right. The striplight behind her was equipped with ohne YN560III @ 24mm and 1/8 (down to 1/16) power. The keylight was equipped with an YN560III @ 24mm and 1/4 power. All speedlights triggered with the 560-TX.
Post processing: I tried a new workflow for beauty retouching. This is my first trial and I try to improve it. I want to get rid of the frequency seperation. So in this picture I just used really decent the healing brush and heavy D&B. After that some color corrections and a curve to improve the overall look. Nothing else done (no blurred skin :-D ).
PS: I'm really proud of my wife. She has always to model for me and she get never bored! Love you!
I generally do not like to complain...about anything. BUT I need some relief! She's only 7 lbs. but she's either in my lap (worse) or on the keyboard or in front of the screen. If I lock her out she scratches at the door and wines. My wife helps but she's got the sister cat to contend with. That's right - double trouble!
It's a wonder I get anything done.
Visit my website at akikorhonen.org for more projects, thanks!
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My DIY ringflash that I've been doing for the last few days.
(Photo, starting from top left) Description
(1) I started with a 24 cm diameter steel bown and a normal food can.
(2) Added some tape on the bowl and drew the cutting lines with the can as a guide.
(3) Bottom from the bowl and can removed. I also shortened the cat a little bit. I first drilled a hole on the bottom of the bowl and then cut the metal with metal cutters.
(4) The two parts connected with strong epoxy that was meant for metals.
(5) Hole for the flash made and few connecting holes drilled. Also the needed aluminum parts are cut and bent in shape.
(6) The bottom part covered with black hockey tape. In the photo it has a Manfrotto quick attachment plate on it. Also has a hole for attaching it to the tripod mount of the camera.
(7) The top part where the flash is attached. Made some holes for the DIY TTL flash cord.
(8) I added some plastic parts for the flash hole to make it look nicer and to prevent light from escaping too much. Next I added some putty to finish it (wasn't necessary but I got too carried away again with the building).
(9) Putty and the bowl fully sanded and waiting for some gray primer and matte black finish.
(10) Painted and finished. Added some black hockey tape on the can's edge to prevent it from scratching the camera.
(11) Close up of the flash hole. A little bit of aluminum foil tape on the inside and black hockey tape on the edge.
(12) White thin fabric streched and being glued on the edges to get some diffusion to the light. There is a rubber band holding the fabric to the can.
See the finished righflash:
* DIY ringflash finished, without camera
* DIY ringflash finished, with camera
Cost: bowl 3€, can 0€, aluminum 1€ + some extra costs from paints etc. but I'm not going to count them to the total. Cheap anyway.
20090114: Added to favorites 100 times.
Having gone through a dark period of photographic stillness, I decided to seek enlightment. Not to ... Tibet though. Instead I dived into the vast ocean of internet trying to learn from the experience of wizzards in the pracrice of HDR photography. Captain Kimo, Jimmy McIntyre, Stuck in customs, were a few among many that tought me a lot.The latest interesting site I fell upon is called ''Farbspiel''.
This photo is post processed following the suggested workflow of the before mentioned site. Maybe in a couple of months I'll be declaring the same things about my current attempts. Anyway ... that's life and the magic of it is to walk the road to become better in each and every aspect of it.
After all I'm just a poor guy in the trenches ....
Kastoria, Greece
Nikon D300s, AF Nikkor 18-35mm f 1:3.5-4.5ED
**This image is protected by copyright and it is not for use on any site, blog or forum without my explicit permission.**
My new BW post processing video tutorial is now ready for download, for a limited time get all 9 videos for the price of 1
Video 1 My Complete BW Workflow
Video 2 Mastering BW Conversions
Video 3 Fine Art Architecture
Video 4 Fine Art Landscape
Video 5 Fine Art Seascape
Video 6 Fine Art Cityscape
Video 7 Fine Art Long Exposure
Video 8 Fine Art Street
Video 9 Minimal Photography
also included are my photoshop files and post processing notes!
An extremely comprehensive post processing tutorial for fine art BW photography
www.vulturelabs.photography/product-page/b-w-post-process...
Part of the set bilderordner album: "res noscenda note notiz sketch skizze material sammlung collection entwurf entwurfarbeit überlegung gedanke brainstorming musterbogen schnittmuster zwischenbilanz bestandsaufnahme rückschau vorschau" 365-days project 2: construction weaving loom, mounting mirror background, bau Webstuhl. Montage Spiegel Hintergrund, Unterlegung // Nonsense Analogie schuh werkstatt weben haus bauen torte backen auflauf kochen // Szenen ohne Ehe, selbst ist die Frau
used photos:
DMC-GH3 - P1100035 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100036 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100041 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100044 - 2015-11-09 #variation #draughtsman #problem #leiermann #leier #improvisation #raster #handwerk #chrysalis #chrysalides #chrysalises #haushalt #analogie #haus #bauen #baustelle #hausbauen #weben #leere #lehre #sinnlos #falsch #widerlegen #beweis #beweisführung #gegenbeweis #inhalt #erklärung #erläuterug #loom #webstuhl #bau #construction #öffentlich #rede #einblick #anblick #ausblick #weiß #white #bunt #work #arbeit #profession #beruf #handwerk #theater #diagramm #schaubild #linie #line #linear #trash #müll #mist #abfall #recycling #upcycling #idee #konzept #überlegung #gedanke #napkin #serviette #unterlegung #herbstlicht #herbst #autumn #licht #light #sonnig #sunny #sun #sonne #schatten #shadow #arbeitslicht #gold #silber #private #privat #privateness #metapher #symbol #lampion #green #grün #bilderzyklus #tapestry #tapisserie #tapis #wandteppich #küche #kitchen #bildwirkerei #bildteppich #textilkunst #carpet #teppich #rug #schatten #shadow #szene #scene #review #preview #kaleidoskop #kaleidoscope #heute #neu #neuer #neuest #beobachtung #view #blick
So... I'm trying out DXO's PureRAW and I took one of my "depth finding" shots of the Levy Semaphores. These are throwaway shots used to judge what the shot will look like in a short amount of time... By cranking up the ISO to some ungodly number... in this case, 51200. Completely useless for sharing, but great for telling me in the field what's my image going to look like.
Thanks to DXO's Pure Raw 4, The middle image came out into the world. Further processing in Lightroom classic and Nik ColorEffex results in the lower one... One that's, well, actually usable.
More probally to come now.
Today working on blur and camera raw touches.
Next week a full stream dedicated to hair to wrap up the series
Video available as well as previous workflow videos
►►► Explore the world of HDR with me at farbspiel-photo.com - View. Learn. Connect.
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About | HDR Cookbook | Before-and-After | Making-of | Pics to play with
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(Hit 'f' to fave this image)
The story of this photo:
This is a shot from one of the many beautiful beaches in Thailand - on a small island called "Kho Poda". The rock that that we are looking at actually has no name (at least none that I know of). Just imagine standing there with your feet in the water taking a deep breath... ahhhh... refreshing...
Take a look at my "HDR Cookbook"! It contains some more information on my techniques.
How it was shot:
> Handheld
> Two exposures (0 and -2ev) - blended in photoshop
> Camera: Nikon D90
> Lens: Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-200mm 1:3,5-5,6G ED VR
> Details can be found here
How it was post-processed:
> Post-processing was done in Photoshop
> Two exposures (0 and -2ev) loaded into two layers and aligned in photoshop
> blended the rock from the 0ev layer with the rest from the -2ev layer using a layer mask
> Topaz adjust on the water to bring back the colors and the details [details]
> Saturation adjustment layer on the sky to enhance the blue tone
> Topaz Denoise on the sky and the water (different settings) [details]
> Levels adjustment layers for water, sky and rock to create homogeneous lightning
> Sharpening on the clouds, the rock and the water separately using the high pass filter [details]
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Learn these techniques at farbspiel-photo.com - View. Learn. Connect.
- Thanks for viewing!
► I have created a free eBook for you called HDR Top Tips.
This eBook contains 10 handy tips for your HDR work (plus a bonus tip). The range of tips covers the entire HDR workflow starting with shooting your source photos, via the preparation and the merging of the images, all the way to the tone-mapping and post-processing phase.
The temple dates back to a small chapel erected in 1743 by merchants and residents of the area, on the corner of a house in the stretch directly across the street from the Cross (behind the current Church of the Holy Cross of the Military ), under the invocation of Our Lady of Lapa Merchants'. [1] A few years later, on June 20 of 1747 , these merchants got together and formed a brotherhood to the building of a temple under the invocation of Our Lady of Lapa, also known as "Church of the Merchants' .
The provision regia for its erection was issued a Nov. 4 of that year, and in December following, have laid the foundations of the temple. Work progressed rapidly, so that the August 6th of 1750 , part of the temple ready for worship was consecrated. From 1753 to 1755 , work continued to completion. The interior decoration was completed in 1766 .
In the second half of the nineteenth century , between 1869 and 1879 , the temple underwent extensive renovations.
When the outbreak of the Second Revolt Navy Brazilian a shot fired by battleship Aquidabã hit the tower bell of this church ( September 25 of 1893 ), toppling the statue alluding to religion , which, despite a drop of more than 25 meters high, suffered little damage, the fact being considered miraculous at the time. Both the statue and the projectile that hit are today exposed in the sacristy . In the tower, later, was installed the first chime of the city, prior to the St. Joseph Church .
Equipment=Canon T3I Rebel
Lens Used=Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Lens
Exposures=7
Location=Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Workflow= PhotoMatix 4.2 Adobe PhotoShop Cs6
Adobe Light room 4.1
Software, Nik Color Efex=Glamor Glow, Brilliance/Warmth and Tonal Contrast
~Voltaire
Another forgotten one from my archives! This is the Primanti Brother's restaurant in Market Square in downtown Pittsburgh that I took from a photowalk a few months back. There are a few of these around Pittsburgh, and I have actually posted an HDR from the one in the South Side previously, which you can see in the comments!
If you are ever in Pittsburgh and in the mood for a sandwich with steak (or chicken, or fish, or egg, or any other meat of your choice!), topped with french fries, cole slaw and cheese, then you HAVE to make a stop here!
I hope you all have a great weekend!!
I don't mind invitations, but please no big, shiny, flashing, glitter graphics, they will be deleted. Also, please contact me if you would like to use my pictures for any reason, as all rights are reserved. Thanks!
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ODC Theme: Work
Even though currently I don't make my main income from photography I hope someday I will.
These smaller snowflakes are more common than the elaborate “dendrite” crystals, but the smaller crystals are often easier on the eyes, trading complexity for geometric form. This one showcases a less common branch formation that looks like leaves rather than trees. View large! (press the "L" key for Lightbox mode!)
With branches nearly resembling an oak leaf or something similar, this tiny snowflake hold many fascinating details within it. The upper and lower right branches (but not the one in between) have formed on a layer above the other four branches. This is common in split crystal formations, and is very difficult to see with our own eyes… but the camera can capture the details that tell the story. :)
Many snowflakes begin their “lives” as columns, and plates grow from either side of those columns as the conditions change. Each of these plates continue to grow outward, winning the competition for water vapour on some corners and losing on others. This creates a multi-layered snowflake, more fragile but also more interesting!
When lighting this crystal, I tried to find an angle that just barely hit the surface, revealing all of the edge contours in the surface as it reflected off. The angle needs to be incredibly precise and it’s quite difficult to keep that angle stable… but once in a while it works out. You can see much detail in the ridges and ribs of this crystals as it grows outward, and how the light from my ring flash interacts with it. I cannot understate the importance of the right angle for each snowflake!
As with all of my snowflake photographs, a long post-processing workflow is involved, but thankfully only 23 images were needed to complete the focus stack. Even still, it took three and a half hours to create the final piece… and I fear tomorrow’s snowflake might be double that! While there are many steps required to arrive at the results you see, it’s a process that can be learned fairly easily.
With camera technology today, photographing snowflakes has never been easier, even though extreme macro photography always a challenge. The tools we have today are incredible, and often push against the limits of the physics of light. It’s a great time to be a photographer! If you want to learn the exact techniques in (relatively) easy how-to detail, I encourage you to consider adding a copy of Sky Crystals to your knowledge arsenal: www.skycrystals.ca/ - a 304-page hardcover book full of snowflake photography techniques, physics and great images.
1. Enderezado de la imagen, he tomado como referencia los pilares de la casa, su linea vertical
2. Correccion perfil de lente, aberracion cromatica y correccion de perspectiva automatica
3 Equilibrio de blancos temperatura 5900 matiz +6
4. Ajustes basicos
Exposicion -0.65
Contraste +24
Iluminaciones -100
Sombras +79
Blancos +63
Negros -6
Claridad +30
Intensidad +18
Saturacion +8
HSL TONO
Rojo +13
Naranjas -26
Amarillos +29
Verdes +12
Aguamarinas +13
Azules +28
Purpuras +8
HSL SATURACION
Rojo +4
Naranjas +17
Amarillos +8
Verdes -4
Aguamarinas -26
Azules +52
HSL LUMINANCIA
Rojo +14
Naranjas -32
Amarillos -13
Verdes -33
Aguamarinas -54
Azules -59
Purpuras -38
CURVAS
Parametrico
Iluminaciones -6
Claros +9
Oscuros -6
Sombras +8
Punto Rojo
He levantado muy levemente los tonos medios a rojo
Verde
Las iluminaciones las he bajado muy levemente a magenta y las sombras muy levemente hacia verde
Azul
Las iluminaciones he bajado bastante a amarillo, los tonos medios lo he bajado a amarillo levemente al igual que sombras.
RGB
Solo he dado mas luz pero muy levemente a las sombras
Filtro radial para cielo
temperatura -6
Exposicion -0.25
Contraste 25
Iluminaciones -35
Sombras +32
Blancos +7
Negros +1
Claridad +31
Saturacion 14
Filtro radias para tierra
Temperatura +2
Matiz -3
Exposicion +0.1
Contraste +26
Iluminaciones -65
Sombras +57
Blancos +22
Negros +6
Claridad 15
Saturacion +14
ENFOQUE
Cantidad 62
Radio 0.8
Detalle 32
Mascara 43
Cypripedium reginae, the Showy Lady's-Slipper orchid.
A very pale, almost 'alba', or 'albescent' form, with just a hint of blush on the pouch.
These were hidden amoung the "regular" ones along the boardwalk at the Lady Slipper Scenic Byway Interpretive/Rest Area, near Pennington, Minnesota.
This was the 1st "orchid" stop on our drive from Edmonton, AB to Newfoundland, Canada.
Also the 1st set of photographs I've posted that were taken with my Canon 5D-IV. I'm still testing/learning the processing workflow with CaptureOne. These two 'pale' images were processed with a colour-checker, to ensure proper colour balance.
Lady Slipper Scenic Byway, Minnesota, USA.
IMG_5801-rev-Cyp-reg-white-DNG
I totally missed the sunset while exploring new areas. But I'm glad I still made it for the blue hour, it was really smooth! I worked this piece on a new workflow, hopefully it is more refined and better than my previous works, hope you guys will enjoy it...
With FE 85mm f1.4 GM.
Refreshed 23Nov21 with latest post processing workflow.
Classical focal lengths (FL)
Preamble
1. Less is more.
2. Influencers abound to steer you towards overspending.
3. The best gear is always yet to come and whatever you already own is accelerating in depreciation.
4. User ability is always more limiting than gear quality.
UWA zoom
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16-35mm range is most practical, takes filters and covers 5-6 Primes as 1-2mm affords a noticeably different POV at the wide end. The quality of the FE 16-35mm f2.8 GM is as good as the best Primes within the range. Even 18-35mm is a good enough range, got to roll my eyes whenever someone says that 16mm is not wide enough. 10-14mm are extremely wide, not easy to find suitable subjects and even if filters can be mounted, you will end up with vignette and more likely uneven polarization. A poorly composed wide angled shot is obvious, it invariably has too much boring foreground in the frame, more likely than not shot by the special ones who felt that 16mm was not wide enough!
28mm
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is classic street shooting angle and to me, the Ricoh GR (& smartphones) owns this. A large sensor (APS-C) in a pocketable form factor is highly versatile.
35mm
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is the most classic of classical FLs being neither too narrow nor too wide. Human cone of visual attention is said to be similar to a 40mm POV. I would buy a 35mm f1.4 but not 28mm f1.4 or 24mm f1.4 as f1.4 vs f1.8 becomes less meaningful the wider it gets from 35mm vs cheaper and much lighter f1.8 versions.
50mm
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the Prime FL to replace a 24-70mm zoom. Great for street shots for those “allergic” to perspective distortion of wide angles. Personally this FL never appeals, hardly use my 50mm Primes and these days with high mp sensors, 35mm cropped to 50mm still produces good files since it is slightly less than an APS-C crop. All said the upcoming CV 50mm f1.2 looks interesting.
85mm
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most classical portrait lens. Personally 85mm is much more versatile than 105mm and 135mm and again with high mp sensors, 85mm at roughly around an APS-C crop gets you 135mm. Very happy with my FE 85mm f1.4 GM, the lens that taught me that weight alone is misleading, it’s all in the way the weight is distributed for comfortable handheld shooting.
Hence I’ve found 16-35mm f2.8 and 85mm f1.4 as a most versatile 2 lens combo for my needs eliminating the need for a front heavy and seldom great 24-70mm f2.8 zoom.
This is based on my realtime practical experience in field use, not some hallucinatory verbal diarrhea shamelessly plagiarized from forum postings, so much BS on the internet!
16-35mm f4.0 paired with 85mm f1.8 will also work.
Special rendering lenses
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The CV 65mm f2.0 Macro APO Lanthar. Unlike normal macro lenses, this is good both at macro distance and at infinity thanks to “floating” elements. Lovely especially for night portraits with OOF specular highlights thanks to 1:2 Macro ability on top of it being f2.0 and the famous CV sunstars. Achille’s heel really is the rather obvious onion rings within the bokeh balls, a fact conveniently glossed over in the forums by “influencers” until the newer 110mm f2.5 is released recently which boasts an absence of onion rings!
24-105mm zoom
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this is way more practical than a brick-like 24-70mm f2.8 and rather limiting 24-70mm f4.0. I prefer my 2 lens combo mentioned above but will concede that the 24-105mm f4.0 can be very useful even if it can never produce magic like those from a great 85mm f1.4. The 24-105mm f4.0 can be added to 16-35mm and 85mm for a 3 lens combo.
135mm
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just like the 50mm this is a good FL to replace the 70-200mm f2.8 zoom being roughly halfway between 70mm and 200mm. It is however a more specialized FL vs the 85mm and probably not worth plonking down serious $ for one.
My essential 4 lens kit is:
1. 16-35mm f2.8 zoom
2. Special rendering CV 65mm f2.0 APO Lanthar for no fringe bokeh balls and well defined sunstars by f2.5.
3. 85mm f1.4 Prime.
4. The last one depends on vastness of the landscape:
Moderate 70-200mm f4.0
Vast 100-400mm zoom.
100-400mm
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very versatile zoom range not restricted to just wildlife purposes.
Z 600mm f5.6 PF VR
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if and when this gets released, I’ll buy a Nikon Z body. Z UWA roadmap adds nothing to what I already have and is narrower by a significant 2mm at the widest end. The Z 35mm f1.8S is apparently good but not great and the Z 50mm f1.8S appears to over deliver for its price although jury is still out on strange OOF rendering just like the 35mm. Too many great 85mm options already exists so Z 85mm f1.8S adds nothing. The Z 20mm f1.8S is probably worth getting, maybe the upcoming Z 50mm f1.2S too. The Z 24-70mm f4.0S is meaningless vs a good 24-105mm f4.0.
Imagery overload is here and now, more of the same is meaningless, for this very reason, Canon’s not very practical RF 28-70mm f2.0L, RF 50mm f1.2L and even RF 35mm f1.8 Macro IS STM somewhat breaks new grounds and Canon wisely offered the RF 24-105mm f4.0L instead of a more limiting range of 24-70mm.
Ultimately it is silly to regurgitate that this new lens is better than that older lens (based on some numbers) since progress makes sure that it will be and more fundamentally, what is mounted in front of the camera is nowhere near as limiting as who is behind it! Fixation over empirical measures at the expense of the artistic process of photography is silly.
Voigtlander APO Lanthars
=======================
I wish CV will release f1.8 versions in 21mm, 24mm, 28mm, 35mm and 50mm like what Leica will be doing for their SL mount with their range of APO Summicrons. If CV can pull off 1:2 Macro on these like the 65mm f2.0 Macro APO Lanthar, it will be hard to resist!
The world is inundated with messages that you “need” more, all designed to make you part with your hard-earned $:
1. Holy trinity of pro level f2.8 Zooms is bad religion.
2. 50mm prime gaps well with 35mm and 85mm, never mind if you actually have no use for a 50mm.
3. You need a separate manual focus kit from your Autofocus one.
4. It’s ok to own multiple versions of the same FL.
Conclusion
==========
You really “need” at most 3-4 lenses, see the trees from the forest to avoid getting hopelessly lost in endless loop of buying then selling…..
1. UWA zoom
2. Special rendering standard FL APO Prime for sunstars etc (no bokeh fringing) and zero onion rings
3. 85mm f1.4
4. 100-400mm zoom (even better if it takes 2x TC well).
New photoshop workflow based on some ideas from Vermeer's painting techniques.
Compare with www.flickr.com/photos/dougr/9511082879
Best viewed *big* using a color corrected browser (Safari or Firefox). Check out my best stuff at www.pacificaphoto.net and follow my new work on twitter @doug_r
I've taken a lot of picture of this door, but this view is new also for me.
Thanks to my trusted fisheye ;)
|| See my pictures on Fluidr|| Press "F" to add to favourites || Better seen on Black ||
LOCATION AND DATE - DATA e LUOGO DI SCATTO
Palazzo Ducale, Genova (Liguria, Italy), 23rd April 2012
CAMERA
Nikon D5000
LENS - OBIETTIVO
Fisheye Samyang 8 mm
SHOT DATA - DATI DI SCATTO
ISO 200; f/8
HDR from 3 raw shots (-2; 0; +2), handheld
Other EXIF on flickr / Altri EXIF su flickr
WORKFLOW - FLUSSO DI LAVORO
° Rename: XnView
° HDR Processing: Photomatix Pro
° Noise reduction / Riduzione rumore: Noiseware Professional
° Straightening: GIMP
° Cropping: GIMP
° Curve correction / Correzione curve: GIMP
° Resizing, watermark: Fastone viewer
How many of you read until the end of my description?? :)