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I generally do not like to complain...about anything. BUT I need some relief! She's only 7 lbs. but she's either in my lap (worse) or on the keyboard or in front of the screen. If I lock her out she scratches at the door and wines. My wife helps but she's got the sister cat to contend with. That's right - double trouble!
It's a wonder I get anything done.
Well yeah, this is one block up from Main Street Ventura close to where I do my laundry and about three block away from Ventura High School in a pretty rough neighborhood (not! :-))
Music: Morcheeba - Otherwise right click and open in new window/tab
INVITES ARE GREAT, BUT PLEASE IN MODERATION
All my public photos are free for personal use
In case your interested here's a sample of my convoluted workflow:
1. +2,0,-2 RAW (sometimes JPEG) files loaded into Photomatix and processed using the detail enhancer.
2. Base Photomatix Settings:
Main:
> Strength - 85 or less
> Saturation - 65
> Light smoothing - High (The further right, the more realistic)
> Luminosity - 0 (adjust based on the picture)
Tabs:
Tone
> White point - 2% (adjust up/down based on picture)
> Black point - .5% (adjust up/down based on picture)
> Gamma - 1.00 (adjust up/down based on picture)
Color
> Temp - 0
> Highlights - 3
> Shadows - 0
Micro
> Contrast - 10
> Smoothing - 15
S/H
> Highlights - 18 (adjust up/down based on picture)
> Shadows - 18
> Clipping - 18
The light smoothing is the most powerful adjustment, so play with that setting first then adjust the others until you get the right look,
If your sky is a dull gray increase the S/H tab, “Highlights” up a bit
If you have to much light “halos” increase your “Luminosity” and the “White Point” settings.
3. Save as a TIFF file.
4. Open in "The Gimp" and re-size (save as____.tiff)
5. Make a layer copy.
6. Do an auto "levels" and see what it does, if it's cool I'll merge it down if not I'll play around with the setting and opacity then merge.
7. Make another layer copy.
8. Use the "local contrast enhance" script at about 50%, then adjust the opacity to fine tune it, then merge it down.
9. Make another layer copy.
10. Use the "vivid color" script and play with the opacity to fine tune it, then merge it down.
11. Save (still as a tiff) and close the picture.
12. Open in Photoshop (I have and old version and only use it to run the Topaz plug-ins)
13. Run the Topaz Adjust plug-in filter and see what the various presets do.............
14. Run the Topaz Denoise filter.
15. Save (still a tiff)
16. Open the original file (unaltered JPEG or RAW) in "The Gimp"
17. Re-size this to match the modified tiff file (don't worry about keeping the aspect ratio)
18. Drag the modified tiff file in as a layer (it will completely hide the unmodified version) then merge it down, this will recover the lost EXIF information.
19. Use the "smart eg sharpen" script at default settings (it makes it own layer copy) then play with the opacity to fine tune it, then merge it down.
20. Do a "save as" as a jpeg, and it's ready for Flickr!
So... I'm trying out DXO's PureRAW and I took one of my "depth finding" shots of the Levy Semaphores. These are throwaway shots used to judge what the shot will look like in a short amount of time... By cranking up the ISO to some ungodly number... in this case, 51200. Completely useless for sharing, but great for telling me in the field what's my image going to look like.
Thanks to DXO's Pure Raw 4, The middle image came out into the world. Further processing in Lightroom classic and Nik ColorEffex results in the lower one... One that's, well, actually usable.
More probally to come now.
Visit my website at akikorhonen.org for more projects, thanks!
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My DIY ringflash that I've been doing for the last few days.
(Photo, starting from top left) Description
(1) I started with a 24 cm diameter steel bown and a normal food can.
(2) Added some tape on the bowl and drew the cutting lines with the can as a guide.
(3) Bottom from the bowl and can removed. I also shortened the cat a little bit. I first drilled a hole on the bottom of the bowl and then cut the metal with metal cutters.
(4) The two parts connected with strong epoxy that was meant for metals.
(5) Hole for the flash made and few connecting holes drilled. Also the needed aluminum parts are cut and bent in shape.
(6) The bottom part covered with black hockey tape. In the photo it has a Manfrotto quick attachment plate on it. Also has a hole for attaching it to the tripod mount of the camera.
(7) The top part where the flash is attached. Made some holes for the DIY TTL flash cord.
(8) I added some plastic parts for the flash hole to make it look nicer and to prevent light from escaping too much. Next I added some putty to finish it (wasn't necessary but I got too carried away again with the building).
(9) Putty and the bowl fully sanded and waiting for some gray primer and matte black finish.
(10) Painted and finished. Added some black hockey tape on the can's edge to prevent it from scratching the camera.
(11) Close up of the flash hole. A little bit of aluminum foil tape on the inside and black hockey tape on the edge.
(12) White thin fabric streched and being glued on the edges to get some diffusion to the light. There is a rubber band holding the fabric to the can.
See the finished righflash:
* DIY ringflash finished, without camera
* DIY ringflash finished, with camera
Cost: bowl 3€, can 0€, aluminum 1€ + some extra costs from paints etc. but I'm not going to count them to the total. Cheap anyway.
20090114: Added to favorites 100 times.
Part of the set bilderordner album: "res noscenda note notiz sketch skizze material sammlung collection entwurf entwurfarbeit überlegung gedanke brainstorming musterbogen schnittmuster zwischenbilanz bestandsaufnahme rückschau vorschau" 365-days project 2: construction weaving loom, mounting mirror background, bau Webstuhl. Montage Spiegel Hintergrund, Unterlegung // Nonsense Analogie schuh werkstatt weben haus bauen torte backen auflauf kochen // Szenen ohne Ehe, selbst ist die Frau
used photos:
DMC-GH3 - P1100035 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100036 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100041 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100044 - 2015-11-09 #variation #draughtsman #problem #leiermann #leier #improvisation #raster #handwerk #chrysalis #chrysalides #chrysalises #haushalt #analogie #haus #bauen #baustelle #hausbauen #weben #leere #lehre #sinnlos #falsch #widerlegen #beweis #beweisführung #gegenbeweis #inhalt #erklärung #erläuterug #loom #webstuhl #bau #construction #öffentlich #rede #einblick #anblick #ausblick #weiß #white #bunt #work #arbeit #profession #beruf #handwerk #theater #diagramm #schaubild #linie #line #linear #trash #müll #mist #abfall #recycling #upcycling #idee #konzept #überlegung #gedanke #napkin #serviette #unterlegung #herbstlicht #herbst #autumn #licht #light #sonnig #sunny #sun #sonne #schatten #shadow #arbeitslicht #gold #silber #private #privat #privateness #metapher #symbol #lampion #green #grün #bilderzyklus #tapestry #tapisserie #tapis #wandteppich #küche #kitchen #bildwirkerei #bildteppich #textilkunst #carpet #teppich #rug #schatten #shadow #szene #scene #review #preview #kaleidoskop #kaleidoscope #heute #neu #neuer #neuest #beobachtung #view #blick
Today working on blur and camera raw touches.
Next week a full stream dedicated to hair to wrap up the series
Video available as well as previous workflow videos
► I have created a free eBook for you called HDR Top Tips.
This eBook contains 10 handy tips for your HDR work (plus a bonus tip). The range of tips covers the entire HDR workflow starting with shooting your source photos, via the preparation and the merging of the images, all the way to the tone-mapping and post-processing phase.
ODC Theme: Work
Even though currently I don't make my main income from photography I hope someday I will.
Summer Evening in southern Germany
For those of you interessted i nthe editing here is the full workflow for this photo www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfXorG5k54A
Stone clock's - Vinicit Stone
The sculptor is working with Vinicit stone, special soft stone authentic to NW part of Croatia. The workflow is 100% per hand, it takes up to 6 hours to finish one stone clock. Clock quartz mechanics are the only part of sculpture that is outsourced, everything else is pure handwork!
Rolleiflex 2.8F, Ilford HP5+
1. Enderezado de la imagen, he tomado como referencia los pilares de la casa, su linea vertical
2. Correccion perfil de lente, aberracion cromatica y correccion de perspectiva automatica
3 Equilibrio de blancos temperatura 5900 matiz +6
4. Ajustes basicos
Exposicion -0.65
Contraste +24
Iluminaciones -100
Sombras +79
Blancos +63
Negros -6
Claridad +30
Intensidad +18
Saturacion +8
HSL TONO
Rojo +13
Naranjas -26
Amarillos +29
Verdes +12
Aguamarinas +13
Azules +28
Purpuras +8
HSL SATURACION
Rojo +4
Naranjas +17
Amarillos +8
Verdes -4
Aguamarinas -26
Azules +52
HSL LUMINANCIA
Rojo +14
Naranjas -32
Amarillos -13
Verdes -33
Aguamarinas -54
Azules -59
Purpuras -38
CURVAS
Parametrico
Iluminaciones -6
Claros +9
Oscuros -6
Sombras +8
Punto Rojo
He levantado muy levemente los tonos medios a rojo
Verde
Las iluminaciones las he bajado muy levemente a magenta y las sombras muy levemente hacia verde
Azul
Las iluminaciones he bajado bastante a amarillo, los tonos medios lo he bajado a amarillo levemente al igual que sombras.
RGB
Solo he dado mas luz pero muy levemente a las sombras
Filtro radial para cielo
temperatura -6
Exposicion -0.25
Contraste 25
Iluminaciones -35
Sombras +32
Blancos +7
Negros +1
Claridad +31
Saturacion 14
Filtro radias para tierra
Temperatura +2
Matiz -3
Exposicion +0.1
Contraste +26
Iluminaciones -65
Sombras +57
Blancos +22
Negros +6
Claridad 15
Saturacion +14
ENFOQUE
Cantidad 62
Radio 0.8
Detalle 32
Mascara 43
This full, free video tutorial is now available for you to download and watch! It shows how to create this image, from beginning to end, and it includes the raw files and my luminance mask action set!
- I have a small request -
If you've enjoyed my materials and found them useful, please can you share the link below to others who you think will also enjoy them.
By doing so you will be helping to support this resource and helping it to grow. The more interest/demand I have in these workflows the more of them I can make.
Thank you and I hope enjoy this new video
www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/09/08/full-free-post-pr...
I’m often asked how I create my AI photography images—especially by those using the same tools but getting very different results. Here’s a brief tutorial outlining my process for crafting refined AI visuals:
1.Start with a Line Sketch
Create a clean line drawing of your subject. Scan it at a minimum of 300 dpi for optimal clarity—this resolution consistently yields the best results.
2.Recover with AI Photo Tool
Use an AI photo recovery tool to transform your sketch into a base image. I typically select the “Severe” setting to maximize structural fidelity.
3.Enhance with AI Image Tool
Apply an AI image enhancement tool to refine detail. I prefer Version 2 with a 6-pass setting and the “Photography” filter for depth and realism.
4.Retouch for Precision
Use a photography retouch tool to eliminate blemishes, wrinkles, extra fingers, or other AI-generated artifacts. Zoom in closely to catch subtle errors. The lasso tool offers excellent control once mastered.
5.Smooth with Light Enhancement
Apply a light-setting enhancement to correct any smearing from the retouch phase. This step improves lighting, restores clarity, and sharpens the final image.
6.Finalize with Branding
Add your watermark or company symbol to complete the piece and protect your creative identity.
Workshop "workflow/Photoshop/Lightroom"
Vrijdag 21 september
10:00-13:00
50.00
Nog 2 plekken vrij voor deze zeer informatieve workshop aanstaande vrijdag.
Veel tips en technieken voor een snelle en professionele retouch workflow.
Werken met kleurkanalen, unieke tints zelf maken, foto's van zero naar hero brengen in Photoshop, werken met focus verloop, achtergronden smooth maken, huid en digitale make-up, kleur manipulatie, automatiseren van retouching processing binnen Photoshop, hyperverscherping, beste plugins en veel meer
Zie het gehele programma op www.fotografie-workshops.nl
Inschrijven via info at Frankdoorhof punt com
Sussex County, New Jersey
Post-processing workflow on this image - daveblinder.wordpress.com/2014/09/30/selective-sharpening...
© DRB 2014 all rights reserved. Unauthorized use or reproduction for any reason is prohibited.
Probably the question that I get asked more than any other is about my photography workflow. I actually feel like my photography workflow is pretty simple so I thought I'd write up a brief post documenting my process all the way from photo capture to photo publishing. Feel free to ask any questions if you need me to elaborate on things.
1. Step one, capture the image: I carry my Canon 5D and 5 lenses (24mm, 14mm, 50mm, 135mm, 100mm macro) with me in a backpack every where I go. I take advantage of the routine time wasted in a day to turn that time into photography. Walking to and from the BART train. Going out for lunch. Waiting in line somewhere. All kinds of everyday moments become photographic opportunities.
Of course I also go out on specific photowalks all the time. Sometimes these are weekend trips away from home, other times they are just evenings out shooting with friends or with my wife. I use 2 8GB SanDisk cards.
To learn more about what is in my camera bag you can read this post here.
2. Step two, transfer the image to the computer: Here I use a high speed USB card reader. All card readers are not created equal. Spend the extra few bucks and get a high speed reader. Every day or other day I use my card reader to offload images on my camera card to my computer. In my case when I plug in my card reader Canon's "Camera Window" software automatically loads. This software then pulls all of my images off of my CF card and puts them into folders on my computer titled by date taken. After my images are transferred to my MacBook Pro I then put the card back in the camera and delete the images off of it. If I'm on an all day shoot I'll take breaks during my day (coffee, lunnch, etc.) to take a moment and clear out my cards.
Bonus Link: 13 Tips for Using and Caring for Memory Cards.
3. Step three, sort photos: Here I open the folder that has all of the RAW files from a given day's images using Adobe's Bridge software. I create a subfolder in the dated folder called "maybe." I go through the day's photographs and I drag anything that I think might have potential into the "maybe" folder.
4. Step four, first pass processing using Adobe Camera RAW: My next step is to open all images in a day's maybe folder using Adobe Camera RAW (comes with both Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom). You simply select all of the images in your maybe folder, right click, and select "Open in Camera RAW." This is where 95% of my photo processing is done.
With camera RAW you can adjust the contrast of a photo, the exposure of a photo, the saturation of a photo. You can adjust the temperature of a photo (the reason why some white lights are sulfur yellow and other white lights are soft blue), you can adjust the vignette (black or white edges around a photo), fill lighting, etc. Adobe Camera RAW uses sliders to make these adjustments and it is easy as pie.
After I get an individual image to where I want it I will use the "Save" button in camera RAW to save that finished photo as a JPG in a new folder "Finished Images."
After I process my first pass imagery I move that date's archive folder off my Mac and onto my drobo to back it up and store it more safely. Note, none of my RAW files are ever saved as processed. I consider my RAW files my negatives and always want to be able to go back to them and process from scratch if need be.
5. Step five, 2nd pass processing: Once I've finished my first pass processing I will point Bridge to the "finished images" folder. Here I will look at each finished JPG image in as large a format as possible looking for photos that need additional work. Typically less than 10% of my photos need additional work beyond camera RAW.
The type of work here is all done in Photoshop. As I go through the images I look for a few things consistently. Images that need slight sharpening. Images that have dust spots on them that need to be fixed with the cloning tool in Photoshop. Images that could benefit from dodging or burning, etc. As I see an image in Bridge that needs additional fine tuning I will double click on the image in Photoshop, make my edits, save the file and close it.
6. Step six, keywording: My next step is to keyword all of my photos using Adobe Bridge. Adobe Bridge has pretty powerful keywording capabilities. I can batch and bulk keyword photos. I might start out, for instance, keywording every single photo I just processed as "Las Vegas" "DMU Las Vegas Meetup 2008" "Vegas". From there I then might go through sub batches and keyword them (say Caeser's or Wynn or Venetian). From there I might then bulk keyword certain frequently used attributes (neon, mannequin, graffiti, night, etc.). And then I go through each image individually adding any final keywords image by image.
Keywording is important because these keywords will be automatically read as tags by sites like Flickr and Zooomr. It also allows you better to search your finished imagery in the future on your computer. The Importance of Keywording Your Photos.
7. Step seven, geotagging: Here I use a free program called Geotagger. Geotagger works with Google Earth and allows you to pinpoint a spot on the planet using Google Earth and then drag and drop any images from that location onto the program and geotags them with that coordinate. Geotagger only works for the Mac but there are lots of other free geotagging programs like Geotagger out there that work with Windows. When you geotag your photos at the file level both Flickr and Zooomr automatically add them to the meta data on your photo and place them on their site maps.
8. Step eight, sort finished photos into A or B to be uploaded folders: My next step is to go through my imagery and basically sort 80/20. What I feel are my strongest 20% go into a folder "B." The rest go into a folder "C."
9. Step nine, publish: I publish twice a day usually but this is by no means a hard and fast rule. Once in the morning and once in the evening. I typically publish 10-15 photos at a time selected mostly at random from my growing pool of "to be uploadeds."
I make sure that when I upload these 10 or 15 shots in a batch that the "B" shots are uploaded last as Flickr and Zooomr only highlight the last 5 shots that you upload in an upload batch. I want these to be what I feel are my better images.
And that's it. I'm sure that there are more efficient ways that I could be processing my imagery but this has worked for me for a while now. Feel free to ask any questions as the above might sound a bit complicated to some.
Additional reading: Thomas Hawk's Principles and Guidelines for the Modern Photowalker . Brian Auer's Your Guide to Adobe Bridge: Useful Tips and Tricks.
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