View allAll Photos Tagged Workflow
note also the black plastic struts holding up the middle section, removed in the final retouch in Photoshop
WORKFLOW , lomics.co/l/MstwKj4joi
Download Lomics:
IOS - m.onelink.me/de143c61
Android - m.onelink.me/5301f4f0
©Chris Adval All Rights Reserved 2014. Chris Adval Productions - www.ChrisAdvalsArt..com - Go to www.ChrisAdvalProductions.com for service details.
Social Media: Twitter @ChrisAdval | Add me as your Facebook Friend! | LIKE My Facebook Fanpage | LIKE My Small Business Fanpage | Subscribe to my YouTube Channel!
Read my articles on my "Chris Adval: Learning Model Photography" Blog!
Photographer: Chris Adval MM#: 2175015
Wrestler: James Vazquez
The 2nd app in my workflow I use is Photogene... More on how I use it at:
digitalchemicals.blogspot.com/2014/02/ipad-photography-wo...
----------------------
About. Me - about.me/edwardconde
From top to down, left to right, the screen snapshots of the workflow I used in the iPad Air for the Housecleaning cartoon.
1. Scan pencil sketch in grayscale jpeg, save to Dropbox. Open iDraw in iPad, select Import from Dropbox.
2. Open file, add layers for panels, lettering and inks. The pencil sketch image is the bottom layer.
3. The file dimensions.
4. After the ink work is done, hide the image layer to make the pencil sketch disappear from view. Exit to iDraw's gallery, touch the Share icon, and select Save to Dropbox.
5. Select jpeg and 300 dpi, then Save.
6. Open Procreate, tap Import, Dropbox.
7. Open the file, select the image layer and change it from Normal to Multiply. That will make the layer transparent. Add a layer below the image layer and start painting.
The problem with the size of this 300 dpi file in Procreate is that layers are limited to 4 maximum. Also Procreate crashes now and then, but its frequent auto file saves means I don't lose much.
When I'm satisfied with a paint job, I merge it into a previously painted layer and start a fresh layer.
The file's dimensions and size are in Canvas Metadata.
8. When the paintwork is done, tap Share, Export to Dropbox.
9. Tap JPEG.
10. Dropbox shows the b/w file from iDraw at 2.3 MB; the painted file from Procreate is 8.2 MB.
If I'm going to email the cartoon, 1 MB or less is a better file size for sharing. To reduce the file size, I upload the file to my Flickr account using the app FlickStackr in my iPad. Flickr offers an option to download the file in different sizes. I pick one of the smaller sizes and download it to Photos for sharing.
Being the newest iPad to date, the Air runs the above apps pretty well with no lagging, other than Procreate's occasional crash and its 4 layers limit. The iPad 2 I still have would probably be slower, and it has a poor screen display compared to the Air's retina.
The Promenade de la Croisette, or Boulevard de la Croisette, is a prominent road in Cannes, France. It stretches along the shore of the Mediterranean Sea and is about 2 km long. The Croisette is known for the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès, where the Cannes Film Festival is held. Many expensive shops, restaurants, and hotels (such as the Carlton, Majestic, JW Marriott Cannes, and Martinez) line the road. It goes completely along the coastline of Cannes [Wikipedia.org]
Finishing up sizing a TARDIS ring for a customer. Running Sleek & Destroy affords me some awesome opportunities.
200 photos here from an afternoon spent in Times Square. I rarely delete photos while shooting (takes time), so this is pretty much the output of a couple of hours wandering around in the rain. Look closely and you'll see that I'll often take a handful of shots of what I think is an interesting subject, playing with composition, exposure, timing, etc...
a little diagram I drew to figure out my git workflow. The idea being to be able to throw multiple features at a client for simultaneous testing while still keeping all independently releasable. I think it even works.
My iPad Photography workflow - RAW Processing
Check out the blog on which RAW processing apps I use on my iPad and why...
digitalchemicals.blogspot.com/2014/02/ipad-photography-wo...
--------------------
About Me - about.me/edwardconde
My workflow on this was;
LIGHTROOM-CLASSIC
Crop.
Adjust basic exposure and contrast with 4 contrast sliders. In this case, I also cooled the light a bit, because the subject was standing under a halogen light, which came out too orange.
Boost “texture” to a high level, where the details pop. Don’t worry about noise yet.
Put “clarity” to 20%. This now looked very noisy, but with a good contrast balance. Lighting details can be dealt with later.
Run LR-C “denoise” enhancement. My objective is to go from “extremely noisy” to “a little noisy”. I find that 50% denoise often does that for me. This is my last Lightroom step, and the “A1” version.
PHOTOSHOP
Make final lighting adjustments. I often, as here, use DxO/NIK Color-Efex and the “darken/lighten center” function. I start with “maximum depth” and the smallest center, and place the center exactly where I want it. Then I expand the center and/or adjust the light/dark to taste. The objective is to create a “light-well” to draw the viewer’s attention to where I want it, but this effect should be subtle and more-or-less “natural looking”. I often dial back the effect until I can barely tell it is there myself, unless I do a flip-flop compare.
In addition to the light-well, I often use DxO/NIK Viveza to fine-tune critical areas of lighting, such as the face. There should be natural-looking shadows, but they should not be harsh or dark.
Next, I do final fine-tuning. This usually starts with a run through DxO/NIK Define for final noise-reduction. I also fix minor image blemishes natively in PS with the clone and/or heal brush, often at a 300% view. As long as I am working natively in PS, I also make final fine lighting adjustments with the dodge/burn/sponge tool, often at 300% view. As I did here, I often brighten the eyes slightly for the “pop”. I only do a very little bit of 5% “dodge”, however. A little goes a very long way.
Usually, my final step is to do a bit of fine sharpening. The “texture” function back in LR-C did most of the “sharpeing”, but I like to use the native PS sharpening brush. I always do this at 100% view, because that is where things are critical. I often use the “darken” mode of the sharpening brush and just lightly touch those spots that look slightly soft at a 100% view. If you use a light, 20% brush, then you can hit a spot 2 or 3 times, until it looks just right. In this case, I paid special attention to the sweater, and I deliberately went slightly-surreal on the ring, as a joke.
5D4-20230423-7361-A4 copy
workflow by Giovanni M. Dall'Olio illustratiting how the eSearch and eFetch utilitities from eUtils in NCBI work.
genome.imim.es/~giovanni/archive/eSearch_eFetch1.xml (warning, big file)
In an attempt to be more organized, I made a workflow of my process. It looks complicated but really only the red & grey items are time consuming. The rest are either fully automated or easy.
Workflow:
1. Non destructive
2. Preparing custom brushes
3. Selection & masking
4. Adjustment and Filters
5. Texturising
6. Lighting effects
7. Fine tuning
8. Adobe Lightroom tuning
Used technique: layers, adjustment, smart object styles, masking, clipping masking, Adobe Lightroom CC 2019, Adobe Photoshop CC 2019 and Video clips...
Illustration and annotations describing workflow for Facebook API integration (sharing) on Becta Next Generation Learning site
Zak, Sara, and Ben run into one of the least talked about yet most widely occurring issues facing Drupal developers today. Read more: www.developmentseed.org/blog/2009/jul/09/development-stag....