View allAll Photos Tagged Waterbased
This is our first collaborative release with Onell Design and Real X Head.
Enjoy everything you love about the fit, feel, and durability of a vintage t-shirt, in a brand new version. Tri-Blend (50% Polyester / 25% Cotton / 25% Rayon) construction.
2 colors waterbased discharge screen-printed on American Apparel Tri-Blend.
Made in the USA, sweatshop free!
Available in Men's: S, M, L, XL, XXL
(c) 2011, Mori Katsura & Matt Doughty.
Website/Blog/Facebook/Vimeo/Tumblr
This is a combination of two shoots (one in January & one in July) I have done for Artist Tara McPherson's clothing line "Cotton Candy Machine". There are more of her products and of my photos on the links below, if you haven't seen her work yet I strongly encourage it. Several of the photos I took for Tara were published in this months issue of Alternative Press.
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Photo of the Published Pictures
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Vertex Photography
I have been a Minwax polyurethane disciple for years, but I'm interested in the water based top coats, as I have heard they will not warm the color of the wood as much: something I don't actually like. It dries faster (so I have heard), it's easier to clean up, but it may take more coats to complete. Here's to a successful testing!
Theme: Crafty Creations
Year Fifteen Of My 365 Project
detail (detalle) /
magazine and book cutouts, postcards, file cards, photographs, masking tape, paper, cardboard, marker, waterbased enamel and acrylic (recortes de libros y revistas, postales, fichas, fotografías, cinta de enmascarar, papel, cartón, plumón, esmalte al agua y acrílico) /
variable dimensions (dimensiones variables) /
2011-2012
A notably unsuccessful attempt to make a traditional IJN reconnaissance float-plane that would have enough speed to survive in a sky filled with Allied fighters - F4F Wildcats, P-38, P-39, P-40, of course, but also Hurricanes, Spitfires and Brewster F2A Buffalos. And then, too quickly, F6F Hellcats, F4U Corsairs, P-47 Thunderbolts and P-51 Mustangs.
The Suin had a 1400HP radial engine, and 2, 2 bladed counter-rotating propellers. But even with retractable wing floats (with inflatable rubber floatation bags) and the central float set up to be jettisoned in an emergency, losses were catastrophic The small prototype batch was not followed by production. The float jettison had only been tested in the wind tunnel, and didn't actually work, which must have been a heart breaker for the crews that tried to use it.
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I just started working with EH and have been experimenting with painting it. I love the result I am getting with a product called "Glimmer Mist" and thought I'd share. It's a spray that is found at scrapbooking stores, easy to order online in dozens of colors. The results are really nice. It is waterbased and may run if it gets wet on the EH, so I spray it with a thin coat of varnish.
For a fashion/business-shoot tomorrow I transformed the Caprice into a 1980S/1990S US taxicab with self-designed stickers
from www.123sticker.nl
Looks very "A-Team" this way 😄
Lever de soleil sur le Carlit 2921m (P-O)
Estampe sur bois imprimée au baren sur papier Awagami Inbe
Sunrise at the top of the Calit Peak (2921m)
Eastern Pyrenees
Waterbased ink woodcut print (Moku Hanga)
The ORIGINAL reason why I got polymer clay in the first place was that I bought a miniature Wii keychain for my dolls but it had no wiimotes in the same scale. All wiimote miniatures were 1/3 scale while the Wii was 1/6th do I figured I could try making some wiimotes using white polymer clay.
I then saw a HUGE block of sculpey for half price so I got that instead and descended into bjd making madness.
Now that I’m done with the sculpting side of that project I thought I’d try making a wiimote. It was definitely harder than I first thought but for an inch long item I think it would look passable in a 1/6th dolls’ hands.
I made a push mold for it so I can make more in white polymer clay without struggling with the buttons again lol.
I also made a test Allan face to see if my waterbased enamel paint will work on polymer clay or if it’ll make it tacky like the other different solvent based spray paint.
A selection of paints, tools, containers, masking tape, decals, sand paper, all in a clear shoe box with a lid that doubles as a work surface. Cheap and effective!
Here's what it looks like, deployed: www.flickr.com/photos/wbaiv/4900842894/. Close-up on contents, not box: www.flickr.com/photos/wbaiv/4900843278/
This box has traveled across the up and down the US by car and airplane (checked luggage- its been viewed and leafleted by the TSA many times). Liquid / sticky contents are all non-toxic, everything except the glue is water based or at least water-thinned. There are hard tools, soft tools and consumables, including small amounts of raw materials. Occasionally parts of model kits travel around in the tool box. If I need more paints than one box holds or more raw materials, I typically bring a second shoebox. They stack nicely.
Contents:
Testor's blue label non-toxic glue is not toxic while drying, doesn't smell bad, but IS flammable while drying... some interesting chemistry there... It comes in a thick version, in a tube, but the thin stuff in the funny triangular containter is my favorite. I first saw it sometime before 1986, bought a container, and never looked back. I'd already switched from tube glue to liquid glue when I was a teenager.
A lot of Polly Scale hobby paint, some Testor's Acryl II, a little Tamiya, some Vallejo, some Gunze Sangyo. I switched to acrylic paints in the 1980s- years ago. I tried Polly S/Polly Scale, Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo and Pactra/Testor's model paints. Where Polly Scale hasn't got a color I want, I use Testor's Acryl II. Testor's paint is more widely available, if I'm mixing something for telling other people about it, I tend to use Testor's.
Future floor wax, (aka Johnson's Kleer). Also Polly Scale and Tamiya acrylic flat for surfaces.
Microscale Micro Set and Micro Sol
An X-acto knife (small handle, #11 blade) or two,
One or two stainless steel spatulas (the ones for moving grams and milligrams of dry reagents around) which I use as paint stirrers.
Masking tape: 3M's blue, long duration product is my general favorite. Tamiya's yellow, rice-paper, stretchable tape is my second favorite, and regular beige tape is the fall-back.
Paint brushes. I particularly like "flat" brushes, of all sizes, for painting stuff. For very small things. very small, round, brushes. Typically shorter rather than longer, but I do have some small, long ones too. I also use big, soft, lacquer brushes for applying Future Floor wax and other overall coatings.
Parts clippers - I used to use diagonal wire cutters, electronic style, but switched to purpose made clippers about 10 years ago. Good investment. Fingernail and toenail clippers are also usable.
Tweezers with thin, flat, ends. NOT the various items Squadron or your local hardware store sells. Huge metal fingers with grooved pluckers at the end. Forget it. I have a pair of electronic assembler's tweezers, with dead straight ends, just flat, thin, metal. Stainless steel, they taper down to thin at the working end. They're perfect for me. They work with little parts, decals, anything I want to do.
Files. Small flat files, Very small round files.
Waterproof sanding sticks. Fingernail style- foam cores, waterproof. Fine, medium and coarse. If you want to sand something flat ("block sand") just put the sanding stick against a rigid surface- kitchen counter next to the sink, or any other surface you can put a damp, abrasive tool on.
Wet-dry sand paper. This is the most consumable item in the box. Regular sand paper- 85 to 220, say, is robust stuff and wears out, but can be kept around and used long after its seriously worn. Wet-dry paper in the 600-800-1000-1200-1500-2000 grit ranges is much finer stuff. Use it, get the piece(s) the way you want them, toss the paper. Its worn out. For really find sanding, i don't just moisten the paper, I put a tiny dab of dish detergent on the paper or on the piece being sanded. This lubricates, just like cutting fluid on a saw or drill/tap/etc, floating off the damp dust that the sanding produces instead of allowing it to clump on the paper (or the part).
Sand a scrap of something with an interesting shape- a wing or horizontal stabilizer or rudder, using an old, junky piece of wet dry now in your tool box. Now try a brand new piece. Now try the brand new piece with detergent and water. You can * f e e l * the difference in how much the paper pulls against the plastic. The more pull, the more cutting.
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I had never felt any curiosity about this design, until recently after looking at Mariano Zavala´s rendition. Far from his skills, I´m still very happy about the final result.
I used a 57x57 cm unryu sheet of paper treated with CMC, and applied a waterbased varnish after finishing.
Frame made of surplus building materials (floor joists). Terrible to think that whole forests are felled and tribes displaced to furnish wood for windows, which now are being replaced with PVC. Most of these windows are just a few years old. We painted them with waterbased acryllic paint, coloured with a mix of two natural mineral pigments. The famlly business of Joiners, who replaced these windows were overjoyed that we were reusing them.
Matching window box in untreated pallet wood. Planted to survive dry Summer conditions on a South facing wall.
For a film featuring many of the recycled items we have made: - www.youtube.com/user/Organikmechanic?feature=mhum - le film
(installation)
with Vladimir Chernyshev
Waterbased paint on wooden panels
160x332 sm
Street art biennale "Artmossfera"
Design center "Artplay", Moscow, 2014
more at anvilrosenkreuz.ru/en/harvest/
___________________
(инсталляция)
с Владимиром Чернышевым
Водоэмульсионная краска на деревянных панелях
160x332 cм
Биеннале уличного искусства "Артмосфера"
Центр дизайна "Artplay", Москва, 2014
Swapbot Printmaking postcard made with a relief printed soft block. Speedball waterbased printing ink, and added watercolor pencil. This one took a long time for me. "Macabre" just ain't my usual style. I was headed for a more Gorey-style, I guess. Extra postcards went to other mailartists who appreciate the Halloween spirit.
Alas, very little of the fun stuff in the interior is visible - I painted the seats to match a photo of the real plane I'd found on line- medium blue, with yellow piping and a dark blue 'wear area' in the middle. I painted every one more than once because I'd make the piping too wide and then cover it completely when I went to trim it with blue. Next time, decals for the piping.
Getting enough weight into this to make it sit on its wheels was no small task. You can see in the photos how I ended up making a big hole in the nose and filling it with chunks of lead-free solder. That wasn't enough, so there's more in the foot well of the front row of seats.
My first attempt was filling the nose with little lengths of steel wire. Since the nose was closed and painted, I fed it into the mounting hole for the front landing gear. Eventually I wasn't cutting them completely separate, just making a deep dent that allowed the wire to bend, but I never got enough into the nose to come close to holding it down. Weeeell, one of those scored lengths of wire is now sticking up between the windshield and the top of the instrument panel. It shook loose after I'd glued the pilot's seat row door... so I'm hoping to find a way to capture and remove it before attaching the last door.
Wing tip landing lights, aileron mass balances, cargo bin hatch and that main gear wheel all need to be attached, and the fuselage decal and upper wing registration. One more coat of Future acrylic floor wax over the repainted nose and to seal the last decals. Paint touch up. Antennae and navigation lights would be a terrificly good idea but that may end up being the second chapter.
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Buddha of Medicine Bhaishajyaguru (Yaoshi fo), c. 1319, Yuan dynasty, water-based pigments on clay mixed with straw, 24 feet, 8 inches x 49 feet 7 inches / 751.8 cm x 1511.3 cm (Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York)
color woodblock print, waterbased ink (Moku Hanga) on japanese paper - a purple heron flies over a pond at the sunset - la Dombes - 40km north-east of Lyon - France
I just started working with EH and have been experimenting with painting it. I love the result I am getting with a product called "Glimmer Mist" and thought I'd share. It's a spray that is found at scrapbooking stores, easy to order online in dozens of colors. The results are really nice. It is waterbased and may run if it gets wet on the EH, so I spray it with a thin coat of varnish.
Horse by Nicolás Gajardo Henríquez .
Folded from Fabriano paper(too thick,thogh...) size 50*50 cm,using waterbased varnish.
Diagrams in origami tanteidan convention 16.
These are all 1/72 scale kits from some to many years ago. Clockwise, from the white one:
Academy 1/72 Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat. Nicest kit of the lot, and newest. Plausible cockpit detail, good shapes, options for -3 and -5. Brushpainted with Polly Scale Railroad Refer White waterbased paint.
Hasegawa 1/72 Nakajima Ki-44 Shoki (TOJO), "Calico Cat" colors, after my old pal, Moustache. No actual cockpit detail, two different canopies, no gear well boxing or detail, but you do get bellows over the oleo struts on the main gear. I find black, white and gold make the most striking calico pattern- I know real cats aren't metallic gold, but none of the orange/gold/golden-rod or other 'real' strawberry blonde colors I've tried looked remotely good, while gold looks great.
Hasegawa 1/72 Mitsubishi J2M3 Raiden (JACK), "Advantest" corporate colors- wine-red and a cool grey. All their equipment is painted these colors, and the company newsletter is called "Wine Red". I think the gray was my version of "BAC 707 Gray", the standard Boeing, Douglas, etc, gray painted on things (composites) that are intended to blend with bare aluminum. I use one of the FS 595 grays, diluted with white, 3 to 4. The red is Polly Scale Fantasy Gaming colors, "Dark Red". The Raiden's cockpit was less crowded than most Japanase fighters, it looks pretty empty through the big canopy. The kit comes with a big clear part for the bullet-proof glass inside the canopyBoth the Raiden and the Shoki appeal to me because they look like they were designed as racers in the first place- small overall, big engines, light airframes, highly tapered, cockpits well aft so the fuel can go right in the middle. The Hayate is less radical and more mainstream-looking. The tail surface on the Shoki are tiny!
Hasegawa 1/72 Nakajima KI 84 Hayate (FRANK). Paint is Tamiya bright blue, glossy, brushed, 3 coats over Polly Scale white as a primer over the kit's dark green plastic. Cockpit detail is pretty sparse, seat, stick, instrumet decal, but the exterior seems about right. No wheel well details. I don't recall any boxing in.
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I've filled the four knock-out pin dents in the back edge of the diffuser, then the row you can see lined up for and aft on the inclined part of the diffuser, and finally, the two that are spotted on either side of the ring shaped boss that aligns the transaxle and diffuser. Now its rough and sloppy and tool marked, and the large, shallow knockouts haven't been filled yet. Now time for more filing, wet-dry sanding sticks and then wet-dry sandpaper.
I put a reasonable coat of semi-gloss near-black onto the back wall and floor of the driver's compartment, as well as the inside of the roof air intake, the front airfoil tray (there's a better term, can't think of it)
This is the orange-painted 911 GT1 I bought as a completed model at an attractive price. The builder had painted the body pretty well, left a lot of the black plastic unpainted, and painted pretty mch everything aft of the firewall steel, aluminum or black.
First I repaired the engine cover where the two well-painted pieces hadn't been glued very effectively. Then I wiggled and pried and wobbled, very gently, over several days, until I managed to get the engine disconnected from the firewall and diffuser. Then I managed to get the body off the chassis.
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I paid $4 for this as a "built model'.... so I don't have to make all my mistakes on the kit I've been building for the last, oh, 13 years. Its nice to see what it all looks like together, even if its not exactly straight and the painting was haphazard. Whoever built it committed themselves, built the whole thing, leaving nothing off, sprayed the body with Orange because that's what they wanted. I admire them and I hope they enjoyed it. Glue splots on the windows and all. They took a shot at it. I intend to improve the kit and try my own ideas of for painting, but I give full credit to the original owner/builder. If you aren't having fun with this stuff, you're doing it wrong!
When I got it, the whole back end fiddly bits were painted 'steel' with a bit of 'aluminum'.Under tray and air intake were black , and firewall. All 'steel' other than that. What you see here is some quickly applied Polly Scale Flat Aluminum, a dark gray, white, off black and Model Master Acryl Engine Exhaust (the goldish exhaust pipes and brake calipers.)
Just to get an idea of what it might look like. Compared to everything 'steel' it looks pretty good, actually. Sure is a lot of globby looking paint there. I've subsequently done some carving, scraping and sanding stick and loose wet-dry paper sanding to make the structural tubes, exhaust pipes, axles, etc, look more beautiful.
Its very firmly glued together and I briefly considered using Testors 'ELO' Easy Lift Off paint remover to take it all back to basics. So far, I'm content with sanding, but might might happen.
My real purpose here is to get reasonable color coverage, try the specific colors I think are correct, and see what it looks like with metal and plastic simulated pipes and hoses. So I need to clean it up, then start drilling holes where the wire ends belong.
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I made 4 prints...2 sepia and then i did mix Schminckes waterbased sepia with Cranfields waterbased… i put some blue and red in the sepia...just to darken the brown colour a bit....
My painting 24" x 48" chosen for the juried show at Art Saint Louis.
Here's a link to a blog post / interview about me and my painting and photography
artstlouis.blogspot.com/2021/11/art-st-louis-xxxvii-exhib...
2018 _DSC9697_cr_s1920
Succubus, female demon who takes the form of a human woman in order to seduce men in their dreams.
Printed on a black Moleskine notebook with white waterbased ink.
I just started working with EH and have been experimenting with painting it. I love the result I am getting with a product called "Glimmer Mist" and thought I'd share. It's a spray that is found at scrapbooking stores, easy to order online in dozens of colors. The results are really nice. It is waterbased and may run if it gets wet on the EH, so I spray it with a thin coat of varnish.
If I can just do something about the piece of wire intended as nose-weight that is sticking up under the windscreen, I can close the last door, add the landing lights, put on the decals and be done!
DONE!
Considering this photo is from Sepember and its now November, you can see the problem...
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March 25, 2015; FDA’s Howard Sklamberg (left) and Michael Taylor (right) tour Waterbase Ltd, a shrimp processing plant and farm in Nellore, India.
This photo is free of all copyright restrictions and available for use and redistribution without permission. Credit to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration is appreciated but not required. For more privacy and use information visit: www.flickr.com/people/fdaphotos/
FDA photo by Jeff Ventura
I'm building this one with Testor's Non-Toxic tube glue - the blue label tube that people frequently talk down. "Oh, that doesn't really work, the parts fall off after a year." is a typical complaint.
I've been using the non-toxic blue label Liquid Cement for over two decades now, and I've never had a part fall off because the glue 'didn't work'. The liquid happily melts pieces of styrene together, just like the poisonous stuff. But its not stinky, doesn't give you a head ache, and has a pleasant, fruity odor that goes away when its dry. So you can tell when its dry.
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Here's the generally attractive fuselage, cockpit tub, landing gear, replica of the Lockheed C2 ejection seat and the instrument panel cover / glare shield. As you can see, the engine intakes and 'mice' + boundary layer splitters all went together and look good. The aft fuselage also looks good, although I have a uneasy feeling that I should have assembled and painted the afterburner exhaust and trapped it between the halves of the aft fuselage...
The mass-flow of the Phantom J-79 that Fiat and Lockheed chose for the F-104S meant that it is said to have noticeably larger intake and associated ducting, larger aft fuselage, etc. This kit, while generally nice, cannot be both an F-104G and an F-104S
On the good news/bad news front, there is a luggage pod in the middle of the parts tree above. On the bad news side, the too skinny wing tank halves visible above simply aren't contenders.
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Buddha of Medicine Bhaishajyaguru (Yaoshi fo), c. 1319, Yuan dynasty, water-based pigments on clay mixed with straw, 24 feet, 8 inches x 49 feet 7 inches / 751.8 cm x 1511.3 cm (Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York)
*edit
Found someone to trade with! Thank you! ^w^
Ever since I got my May I've just used my littlefee heads on her body. While I love the bobblehead look I find it sad that I dont use the realfee May head at all. I like her but she just doesnt get any attention and I've found that I prefer May in other people's photos.
BUT I really love Mari's round and cute face. I'm not interested in buying a whole doll just for the head though, so I was thinking that maybe someone here was about to order a realfee May or realfee Soso? And maybe be kind enough to trade with me?
I'm looking for an even trade, maybe not in value but we'll share the shipping cost. I'm happy to offer a greater value than what a blank Mari head would be worth, as long as someone would be willing to trade with me ^w^
I'm looking for a realfee Mari head with no face-up and in natural skin. I'd love to have the sleeping head as well but first and foremost the OE.
I have the following things to offer:
- Realfee May with default face-up. She's natural skin (she looks white skin in the picture but that's just the lightning). She's as good as new, I got her two weeks ago and have only tried her on the body I have once and then she's been put in the box. Her face-up is in excellent condition, still sparkly! I have glued magnets in her head, but since I ran out of super glue I used a waterbased "allround glue" which is not very strong at all and I can remove the magnets if you wish without any residue. If you want I can include her eyes as well as I'm not really a fan of glitter eyes.
- Realfee May sleeping head in natural skin. It doesnt have any face-up since I was planning to paint both her faceplates if I had kept her.
- Realfee Soso head without face-up, in natural skin. This was the gift head I got with my fullset, it's really cute but not my cup of tea ~
- Parts from the May fullset, specifically the shoes and wig. Dont care for them, in fact I dont even think they have been removed once from the packing so they are brand new.
- Other things; I have a littlefee rose sleeping faceplate that I can mod for you(it's natural skin and from 2014). I can also make custom clothing for lati white, pukipuki, pukifee, lati yellow, realfee, littlefee and maybe minifee if that's something you'd rather be interested in ~
So yeah, would really love to trade and get a Mari head and I hope at least something of all things I mentioned tickles your fancy. Let me know! ^w^