View allAll Photos Tagged Troubleshooting
71: Here I have taken the top belt protector off of the assembly of the 1" x 30" belt sander. I really only want to grind flush the bottom of the screws, and not remove much of the surface area around them. I am using just a small bit of the belt along the top wheel and at an angle to localize and minimize the contact point of where I am grinding.
I built this up from an unused front panel, purchased at the Buchla garage sale. All PCB creation, assembly and troubleshooting has been done in 2008. This is essentially a new module.
101: While holding the liner assembly in a vise, I'm using a small jeweler's needle file to clean up the little notch I have in the rear of the design.
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74: You can see how I've carefully positioned the tape, even with the little pieces between the screws. I've taken special care not to overlap strips in order to make sure the drawing lies down flat. Otherwise, by the drawing not laying on the same plane uniformly, squareness could be thrown off a few thousandths of an inch, which does not seem like much, but little things like this gone uncared for, can add up and really cause problems later.
129: You can see the two Timascus pieces stacked and taped, (Do not overlap the strips of tape, lay them carefully down side by side so that they lie on the same plane, otherwise you could be off of square by a few thousandths of an inch. Be careful to get the proper double-stick tape. 3M makes a “permanent” version, (color coded RED), and a ‘not so sticky version’, (color coded BLUE). This can be confusing, as both the overall color of the packaging is yellow plaid. Make sure you use the RED version. The BLUE version will not hold up through the processes to come and fail to hold the pieces together in their proper places.)
Underneath this you can see two more rectangles of material. These are also going to be a part of the bolsters, as a sort of under liner of the Timascus. I am using this for two reasons; the Timascus thickness I felt was a bit too thin in regards to the proportions of the rest of the knife. This additional bolster layer will also thicken things up a bit, as well as give another visual element to the overall design. It will look pretty cool to see another layer under the bolster. This additional layer can also be file worked and/or anodized. I have been using this idea for a while, it’s more work, but adds a nice touch, something you don’t otherwise see on knives.
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PC Workstation LLC, located in Denham Springs, LA is a licensed electrician, which specializes in low voltage wiring, network cabling, installation, testing, troubleshooting, and upgrading for all commercial and industrial.
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Petty Officer 3rd Class Evan Tyzack poses while troubleshooting the steering system aboard Coast Guard Cutter Walnut, April 1, 2015. As an electrician’s mate assigned to the naval engineering department at Base Honolulu, Tyzack performs a variety of duties including the installation, maintenance and repair of electrical equipment. (U.S. Coast Guard photo by Petty Officer 3rd Class Melissa E. McKenzie)
79: Metal, especially the thicker you're cutting, does not allow much give to allow for cutting curves. You can force the blade a little bit, but you are primarily relegated to straight lines, so you have to cut a lot of parts out in wedges and small chunks.
Rear magnets have also been set in place. Here is the knife set in place.
I have just a little touch-up of Gold Leaf to do in one spot, and also to do a little touch up of oil. Then finally set all the stones into the countersunk holes, and ALCHEMY will be 100% complete!
77: After making sure the band saw blade and cutting table are perfectly square, I've started to rough-cut the excess material off the assembly, roughly profiling to shape. I'm cutting close to the line, but just outside of it. I want to still see a little white paper on the outside of the line. The band saw cuts a very rough edge, so I want to leave myself a little room to be able to clean it up later. I'm using a sheet of Plexiglas on my band-saw tabletop; this helps keep down scratches while I'm sliding the assembly around during cutting.
98: Back to the band saw to cut off the little bit of excess Ti in order to create the proper shape of the liners.
89: After a bit of sanding, you can see the affects starting to happen. The high spots are getting smoothed out, but obviously there is still some more to go. This is why it is important to cut with the band saw just a bit outside the line. With this machine, I will go right up to the profile lines of my drawing. I will also change the sanding sleeves; first using a rough-grit to quickly clean up the edges, I then go onto finish with finer grits, which will later make my hand sanding and polishing easier.
Check out all the memorabilia from the annual Chrysler Troubleshooting Contest. In keeping with the theme, the trophy is from the 1968 competition. Inside the retro dealership display at the Carlisle All-Chrysler Nationals, July 2008.
Erin Stellato presenting "Baselines First, Troubleshooting Second" at SQL Saturday 2011 in Chicago
Erin Stellato is a Senior Database Engineer at Hyland Software, Inc. in Westlake, OH. She has over 10 years of technology experience, and has worked with SQL Server for the last seven years. Erin works with customers to provide support for problems that involve the database and system performance. She is an active member of the SQL Server community and blogs about her experiences. Her areas of interest include Internals, Maintenance Strategies, Performance Tuning and High Availability.
SQL Saturday Chicago
SQLSaturday is a training event for SQL Server professionals and those wanting to learn about SQL Server. This event will was held Mar 26, 2011 at DeVry University Addison Campus1221 North Swift Road, Addison, IL 60101.
SQL Saturday #67
www.sqlsaturday.com/67/eventhome.aspx
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I have been a mac user since the mid-eighties and have performed countless upgrades and installs since then. Never any problem. Until now.
Because I didn’t feel particularly hindered by remaining on Leopard and wanted to avoid any incompatibilities with Adobe products, I have resisted upgrading. But, because I felt the need to install the desktop version of the writing app I use on the ipad (iA Writer), I decided, yesterday, to go ahead and upgrade to Snow Leopard > Lion and deal with what I assumed would be minor inconveniences later. I’ve always been pretty good at fixing whatever (computer) problems crop up. But, for over the past 24 hours, my machine has been essentially colonized by this process. And the process is nowhere near the end.
After performing a clean install of Snow Leopard, my machine seemed, to my astonishment, like it was wading through molasses. Everything was slow. “Okay,” I thought. “I’ll just go ahead and proceed to 10.7.1. Things can’t get any worse and they will almost certainly get better. Hopefully way better.”
A download (of 10.7.1 = 3.75 GB) that I assumed would take an hour at most has been going on now for more than a full day. Aborting the process would mean continuing with Snow Leopard, which I don’t think is viable. I suppose I could revert to Leopard, but that seems … I don’t know. This is a nightmare.
Part of the problem is that roadrunner dropped the connection twice (and my speeds seem just … unimaginably slow). Another option, I suppose, might be to run down to 5th Avenue (Apple) and continue the download there, and then maybe ask some genius why with sufficient RAM (4 GB) and sufficient free space (145 GB) on the hard drive everything would be lumbering, lumbering … I don’t know. I don’t know. Yes, I suppose I will have to run down to 5th Avenue.
Quitting out of Safari now.
By the way, in case there was any doubt, I know how stupid this whole thing is.
85: I have unscrewed the liners from the assembly in order to rub all parts out on some sandpaper so as to remove the burs from the band-sawing.
108: I've now re-arranged the parts into their proper configuration: blade and handle core in the center, and the top and bottom liners in their appropriate place. I have used the #43 drill bits as pins to once again align all parts using all their corresponding shared holes. I've then used clamps to securely hold everything in its proper position.
JAVA SEA (Dec. 29, 2017) Information Systems Technician 2nd Class Dylan Odett, a native of Smithfield, N.C., assigned to the amphibious assault ship USS America (LHA 6), answers troubleshooting requests in the IT shop. America, part of the America Amphibious Ready Group, with embarked 15th Marine Expeditionary Unit, is operating in the Indo-Asia Pacific region to strengthen partnerships and serve as a ready-response force for any type of contingency. (U.S. Navy photo by Mass Communication Specialist 3rd Class Vance Hand /Released)
93: It is again important to periodically take the assembly apart to de-bur the pieces on some sandpaper. This again will ensure flatness and cleanliness.
** Copyright for this photo belongs solely to Ian-Janne Matt Images may not be copied, downloaded, or used in any way without the expressed, written permission of the photographer. ( RM-Rights managed only)
128: I have cleared up the issue. You can see the grit marks of the sanding belt, but it is certainly smooth and flat to the touch and sight. This is repeated for both bolsters. Next I’m going to use ‘permanent’ double stick tape to stack and stick both the top and bottom bolsters together. Because of this stacking, I’m going to flat sand anywhere the materials are going to come into contact with another flat surface. So in this case, remove the tool marks off the bottom of the top bolster (I don’t have to worry about the topside of the top bolster right now), and both sides of the bottom bolster as it will be coming into contact with not only the bottom side of the top bolster, but also latter with the knife body, as well as with table surfaces in sawing, grinding, and drilling applications.
Brandin Yoder – Brandin is enrolled in Network Computer Technology. His skills include Building, Repairing and Troubleshooting Computers. Comments made by Brandin’s teachers include “He is an intelligent and friendly young man,” “Brandin is a very hard worker,” and “He consistently receives high scores in class.” “He gets along well with his classmates and school personnel. He has leadership potential if he puts his mind to it.” School related activities include Springfield High School Soccer, Baseball and Band. Community service includes volunteering at the Young Elementary School carnival. Brandin plans to attend college and pursue a major in computer science.
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81: I only have a small opening design-wise, in which to get the band saw into the rear circular area. As you can see, it will take allot of cuts to remove the material, and open up this area.
96: Now that the overall pieces are profiled, I need to finish the profile of the liners (front & rear). I've taken the liners off of the main body and just screwed them together by themselves. I have once again cut and ground this set of working screws flush, so this assembly of liners lays flat for cutting and grinding. I have also laid out another copy of the drawing, appropriate to the shape of the liners; you can see the excess material in the front and rear areas.
107: I'll now go back and lightly sand the blade with some fine sandpaper to remove any lingering burs or tape residue (sand the liners as well).
139: You can see in the slight rough overhang of the bottom, rear-most concave area of the bolsters (now lying in place on the knife), why I had left it raw from the band saw cut; this is the area that I’ll go in and blend once the bolster is secured in place. I’ve used a small copper-jawed clamp to hold the bolster stack to the knife body. These copper-jawed clamps lock up more precise, and don’t mare your surfaces like all steel “C” clamps can. Also, get in the practice of wiping of the contact face of the clamps; you can just use your finger. This will prevent any dust or grit from getting on your work, which could scratch surfaces, or prevent proper lock up of the clamp to your work.
The Before version was a lot of links and tended to push customers down browsing paths. The After puts 80% of the answers people call in about right in their face.
Part of this redesign was to reduce calls and get answers to customers faster.
134: Using the back platen with table accessory on my Burr King grinder (check for, and adjust for squareness before using!), I am going to clean up the convex areas only. Before doing this you should knock off any rough burs on the bottom side of the material stack created from band sawing, either with a fine file or running it across 320 grit sand paper on a flat surface. This is important, so that the material stack rests flat on the table, thus assuring square grinding. There are two areas along the profile that I’m going to stay away from for the moment and still leave rough, and therefore a bit oversized; (Arrows) these are the areas that share the outside profile of the rest of the knife. I will blend those later after I know proper placement of the bolsters on the knife.
Troubleshooting Tuesday continues with more helpful hints for your Aquapres.
Here is a quick tip to help you diagnose the problem:
• If your gauge is not registering pressure and there is no water coming out of the pressure release valve, check if there is acrylic attached to the O-Ring. If so, clean off the O-Ring to ensure that a good seal is formed between the lid and the bowl.
Do you need more help right now? There are lots of answers on our website, www.langdental.com/dental-products/small-equipment/aquapr...