View allAll Photos Tagged Troubleshooting

41: Using the band saw to cut the rough liner profile out. Repeat for both pieces. As you can see with my shapes, cutting is difficult, lengthy, and leads to the loss of a lot of material.

 

59: The top liners and blade are secured together with some 440 screws. The screws in this position are meant to eventually be countersunk, so that the heads are flush. This setup is just temporary, as I will use different screw head types while I am working for the time being.

 

onlinepcmasters.com provides Online Computer Repair, Remote Computer Repair, Tech Support and PC Support in UK.

Verónica Vergara Larrea isn’t new to troubleshooting, but a task as big as a supercomputer takes a plan and a team. Her team just completed acceptance of approximately 25 percent of the final system.

 

This is a schematic showing coarse-grained (purple) and fine-grained particles, representing the chains of hemoglobin molecules that form in sickle red blood cells. (Image credit: Brown University)

 

Read more: www.olcf.ornl.gov/2018/01/17/faces-of-summit-putting-the-...

 

Image credit: Jason Richards/ORNL

43: De-burring the liners with a file after using the bandsaw.

 

18: After a few minutes in the "acid", the pattern is slightly revealed. It's still hard to see, but I think it will be very promising. The pattern I forged is a 9-way, opposing, modified, twisted W's pattern.

 

Day One: Troubleshooting the overdrive

132: I also run a bead of “Crazy Glue” along the edges of the assembly to help secure everything in place and keep parts from moving and shifting as I start the initial work. It is important not to overstress, or overheat the stacked layers during this critical state of construction. Be careful not to melt the glue and tape. Until we get screws in place, it is important to carefully watch that the layers stay aligned.

 

Hopefully this will help some of you who are having trouble with the red flags on their Trips.

 

The areas marked above are where I have found problems to be and are worth checking if your flag isn't rising as it should.

31: Here, I am carefully going to finish the tang slot in the handle core by carefully belt-sanding out the area right to the line to assure a tight fit to the blade tang, minimizing the room for wobble.

 

35: I've laid out the part of the pattern that will become the liners on my 1/16" (.0063) thick titanium sheet. At this point, I will be just roughing out what I need for the two liners, so I've just used a black magic marker instead of the "Dykem" layout fluid, it does not work as well, but this part is not critical, and the marker is quicker.

 

This was an important document that we didn't use very much.

Leo & I were eating liquor chocolates. Me acting like a dork (nothing new). Wii troubleshooting.

34: I'm cutting a copy of the drawing out to use as the pattern in the next step.

 

37: Cutting the basic strip of Ti for the liners off of the rest of the sheet.

 

26: I've used small clamps to lock the blade and handle slab into the correct position. I'm tracing the profile of the tang onto the handle slab using a sharp scribe, the lines of which will show up very clearly due to the blue layout fluid.

 

25: I have positioned the blade and handle slab over one of the drawings to make sure I am going to fit and join them together at the correct angle.

 

38: Here, I have to jeweler's saw to cut the two pieces apart. Given that the divide line is crooked, I could not cut that shape using the band saw.

 

** Copyright for this photo belongs solely to Ian-Janne Matt Images may not be copied, downloaded, or used in any way without the expressed, written permission of the photographer. ( RM-Rights managed only)

60: Here I have re-attached the handle core with its recently drilled structural holes, onto the screwed together assembly of the top liner and blade. I am using the clamps once again to secure the unthreaded parts of the liner to the core, securing everything tightly in place.

 

Maintenance of cars - tools, materials, equipment

67: On the backside of the assembly you can see all the extra lengths of the screws.

 

42: Here you can see the essential rough parts of the structural elements of this knife. You can see how the blade and Ti handle core fit together.

 

69: I am now using a jewelers-saw to rough-cut the extra screw lengths off.

 

my brother and my nephew

Erin Stellato presenting "Baselines First, Troubleshooting Second" at SQL Saturday 2011 in Chicago

www.erinstellato.com

 

Erin Stellato is a Senior Database Engineer at Hyland Software, Inc. in Westlake, OH. She has over 10 years of technology experience, and has worked with SQL Server for the last seven years. Erin works with customers to provide support for problems that involve the database and system performance. She is an active member of the SQL Server community and blogs about her experiences. Her areas of interest include Internals, Maintenance Strategies, Performance Tuning and High Availability.

 

SQL Saturday Chicago

www.sqlsaturday.com/

 

SQLSaturday is a training event for SQL Server professionals and those wanting to learn about SQL Server. This event will was held Mar 26, 2011 at DeVry University Addison Campus1221 North Swift Road, Addison, IL 60101.

 

SQL Saturday #67

www.sqlsaturday.com/67/eventhome.aspx

 

View the high resolution photo on my photography website

Pictures.MichaelKappel.com

  

53: Now that I no longer need the holes in the tang as guidance holes, I can tap them. I am going to hand tap the holes with a tap wrench using a 440-thread size tap.

 

Using a hand tap with a 440 tap to thread the previously drilled holes. Tapping involves patience above all things. In order to cut threads into the sides of drilled holes, taps have to be extremely hard; as such they are extremely brittle and are prone to breakage. Use new, sharp taps with cutting fluid. Carefully, and constantly checking for straightness, gently insert the tip of the tap into the hole, and with a little pressure give it a little clockwise twist to get it started. This is the only time you should use a little pressure, once you feel it bite, let the tap do the rest of the work. Using small 1/8-1/4 turns, twist the tap farther into the hole, back it out, then repeat just a little past where you had previously gotten. You will be able to feel when you are biting into fresh material. If you hear a loud squeak, immediately stop, and reverse the tap!! It’s better to take a half an hour per hole if you have to, go through several taps per hole, rather than break a tap, especially in Titanium. Use a fresh tap per bolster, especially if titanium, it may even take two taps per bolster. I have had many situations where it’s taken up to eight hours to remove a broken tap! Not fun! I have recently discovered that the local conventional EDM place, can blast out broken taps very effectively for about $60 a pop. Or in the case of in Ti, broken taps can just be etched out without affecting the Ti.

 

After having had my computer go wonky on me for the fourth time in 24 hours -- essentially unusable because the left-click would suddenly stop working (neither mouse nor trackpad would activate a left click, though right click, scrolling, cursor and keystrokes were ALL still fine!), I took the extreme measure of moving to reinstall the OS on another hard drive. (Granted, it's been a pending necessity for some time now, what with a full hard drive, and Mountain Leopard pending ...)

 

However, would you believe that at the VERY END of the OS X Lion installation set-up, you are faced with the requirement of showing you can handle the fancy new reversed scrolling feature in Lion (by doing the trackpad scrolling gesture), ... and then you have to do a left-click on the "Start Using OS X Lion" button. You have NO choice. That is the ONLY possible option. No keyboard command. No gesture. No spacebar or Return to continue. No option but a simple left click. The one, single simple input that just happens to have been a recent issue on my computer. And guess what, despite a clean install of the operating system, it's still not working. I have no other way to move orward. No other choices. I know, because Apple Tech Support and I tried to troubleshoot this on for over half an hour. And we came up with nothing. Nothing other than a "we know this won't solve the problem, but we COULD do a Force Quit."

 

So as I sat waiting for someone else at Apple to pick up the case escalation hotline, I tried thinking up some other options.

 

• No, I couldn't try accessing the Mac OS via a remote desktop app from another computer or the iPad -- I was working with a clean installation, with no remote access permissions.

• Maybe I could try controlling the computer with the Magic Mouse?. But no go there -- it had no batteries.

• Hmmm. Maybe that fancy Bluetooth trackpad?

 

And just as that though crossed my mind, I heard a mischievous chuckling coming from under some paper clutter off to the side of my desk. Paper clutter that supported a power adapter, and now also a box of computer tools from my hard drive installation.

 

What was the source of the chuckling? What was hiding under the papers?

 

Mustering my courage, I reached out and lifted the papers' edge...

 

2012/366 - Day 164

22: Using a riffler file to carefully remove the burs created from the drilling operation.

 

32: After cutting off the excess protruding tab of Ti off from the front of handle slab, I am cleaning up that area with the sander, again matching the grind right up to the scribed lines.

 

36: I've flipped the pattern over and laid out the rear liner on the sheet as well. At this point, I want plenty of material to use, so I just need a ballpark width. In order to divide the two pieces, I need to take into account the front shape of the liners, and cock the patterns up a bit to avoid overlapping the shapes.

 

55: You can clearly see here the large burs created from that tooling application in the holes I've tapped so far. These must be removed to ensure accuracy and tight parallel flatness in adjoining parts.

 

23: The eight finished drilled holes; you can clearly see the even pattern I've laid out.

 

62: I have unclamped the core from the assembly and am now tapping the internal construction holes in the handle core. Once I have the knife profiled closer to shape, I will add additional internal construction holes and screws.

 

1991 Lincoln Town Car Electrical & Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manual

ISS033-E-017373 (1 Nov. 2012) --- Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency astronaut Aki Hoshide, Expedition 33 flight engineer, participates in a session of extravehicular activity (EVA) outside the International Space Station on Nov. 1, 2012. During the six-hour, 38-minute spacewalk, Hoshide and NASA astronaut Sunita Williams (out of frame), commander, ventured outside the orbital outpost to perform work and to support ground-based troubleshooting of an ammonia leak.

63: From here, in addition to using the riffler to de-bur, all parts should be run slightly across some 320 or 400 grit sandpaper to catch any dirt or small burs, etc. This assures cleanliness, flatness, and precision. This step will be followed periodically throughout the construction of the knife. Not following this step, may contribute to parts not mating up properly.

  

Electronic Maintenance department: Electrical and Electronic Workshop / Basic Electronic Troubleshooting Workshop /

Electronic Measuring Equipment Workshop/Electronic Systems Workshop/Electronic Troubleshooting and Fault finding Workshop/Digital Workshop.

 

49: I have started the holes in the liners, which will eventually be threaded and will be the means in which the liners are connected to the blade. I also need the handle core slab to be attached to the liners, so I am prick-punching the placement of additional holes to drill in the handle core.

 

27: You can see here the scribed lines and the effectiveness of the layout fluid.

 

58: I am now going to run the tap through both components at once to blend the threads. After I re-thread each hole I am going to throw a 440 screw in place to help add stability while I am working. This assembly made need to be taken apart, re-aligned, re-clamped, and re-threaded in order to clean out the burs created in the process.

 

For some reason, we're randomly getting cuts (on both our Helix and EXT) where the laser fires while the head relocates to the next position. This leaves a huuuuge mark across whatever material we're working on.

Did what I could while I was driving home in the car, then had to be in front of my own computer...still couldn't get dad's Internet connection to work. So frustrating to try to troubleshoot something over the phone. But did buy tickets to go see them while we were talking...so it will be fixed yet this month!!! Decided to play around with a shot I only kind of liked the composition of and play with a fun stylization I wouldn't use on a "normal" photo.

40: Here I have re-positioned the pattern on the Ti, then very roughly scribed the overall shape into the Ti, giving myself plenty of extra room, about a 1/16" - 1/8" oversized all around.

 

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