View allAll Photos Tagged Subframing
Got the perfect angle on Sunday from a little north of eastlake and aloha. Seattle currently has more cranes in its skyline than any other city in the nation.
Mosaic of 9 subframe images
made with microsoft image composite editor
and color processing with
Gimp
image Credit: NASA/JPL-Caltech/Malin Space Science Systems
processing color by AlfaCentaury
24x120 second subframes,
Total exposure 48 minutes.
Quite a lot of high level cloud, light wind and not grey seeing. My FWHM values are quite a lot worse than the comparable image with the 350D. But still, it's a first light picture!
Quite a learning curve going from the DSLR to the dedicated Astro camera. Quite glad I went OSC before Mono... although this camera exposes the CA of the achromat a lot more than the DSLR seemed to (perhaps because the CA hid amongst the chromatic noise with the DSLR).
Imaging:
Skywatcher Evostar 150,
QHY163C at -10degrees, gain 10, Astronomik CLS filter.
Guiding:
unbranded 50mm, 190mm focal length, finder-guider,
Orion SSAG.
All on
Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro
Captured using SharpCap. Guided using PHD2.
Stacked and processed in DSS, Fitswork and Gimp.
17th July 2017
Cambridge, UK
Our 1982-1992 F-Body subframe connectors are fabricated from 1-1/2” x 2-1/2” x .083” wall steel tubing and increase the car’s stiffness by connecting front and rear torque box structures. They also function as a side jacking rail. The connectors do not hang lower than the rocker pinch flange so ground clearance is unaffected. They provide a nice mounting structure for roll cage installations as well. Laser cut brackets are included to attach the front and rear of the connector tubes to the torque box structures. Includes new seat belt brackets that are stronger than stock and provide mounting points for the stock belt system or a race style lap belt
Had to notch the subframe conectors so they would clear the floor pans.
Both the subframe & chassis conectors were from Total Control Products.
However, its position inside the subframe continued to cause problems. After getting the nut on the far side 90% off with the ratchet, the bolt had moved out to such an extent that the back of the ratchet was now trapped against the inside of the subframe in such a position that I couldn't loosen the bolt anymore, nor could I pull the ratchet off the head of the bolt. Even more annoyingly, the tighten/loosen selector lever on the ratchet ended up pressed between the tips of those two bolts, meaning I could only turn the ratchet a single click without hitting them and changing the ratchet's direction. After a minute of single clicking the bolt back in I was able to get enough clearance to remove the ratchet and slap an extension on to get the bolt out the rest of the way.