View allAll Photos Tagged Subframing

Subframe gussets done. Once I switched to .030 wire it was easy peasy.

Corrosion protection painted rear subframe, new bolts and rear tiebars

2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly

That is my brother Eric Julson---he loves to cut cars up. It took us 4 days to get it apart and the new subframe tacked on.

Spoon Steering Rack Bushing Kit and Subframe Rigid Collar Kit: Convertible/Open Top car frames are generally weak. OEM's reinforce them to reduce chassis flex and twist. A torsionally weak frame will store suspension energy and release it in an uncontrolled manner. This results in less tire to road contact and unpredictable steering precision.

Lucky for us, Honda did an amazing job of engineering an 'x' frame by adding a backbone frame to tie the front and rear frame rails.

 

We opted for spoon rigid collars for the front and rear subframe because we've had positive results in other race cars we've built in the past. The subframe through holes are larger in diameter than their matching bolts. The large dimensional tolerances allow for the subframe to shift and bolts to flex. The Spoon rigid collars essentially fill up the "air space" gap if you will, so the amount of flex and shifting now becomes negligible. A primitive way to check for subframe shift is to simply add a couple of small tack welds between the subframe and chassis. An S2k equipped with slicks with 1 day of Buttonwillow testing will simply popped these welds. If not, you're either not driving hard enough or your welds are too large!

 

The OEM steering rack bushings are made of rubber. Due to the additional grip of running R comps and slicks we found a significant amount of steering play on previous S2000's. The data we collected shows the steering rack was shifting laterally resulting in unpredictable front toe change caused by rubber bushing deflection. Some S2000 enthusiasts assume the root cause is due to improper tie rod angle causing the front to 'bumpsteeer". Measuring front bumpsteer on lightly modded S2000's we find very small amounts of toe change through the swing arc. We can confidently say that most S2k enthusiasts don't need front BSK's however on Irene, we've done so much to the control arm angles, ride height and roll center geometry, adjustable solution is required so we used the Wicked Tuning Anti-Bumpsteer Kit to dial in the front. (REFER TO PHOTOS OF FRONT TIE RODS)

  

Three subframe I have made with a standard person.

Teardown of rear hydrolastic subframe

2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly

Mazda Protege Declunk kit installed

 

From: www.autoxracing.com

Stance on the FoFo.

Hydragas spheres and brackets, and little cross member jobby, and the tin of paint. I hand brushed these, it went on quite thick and dried in a few minutes.

Engine is bolted into the subframe and to the transmission.

Right Rear Subframe with IE Bushing.

2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly

2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly

105 x 240sec subframes

The rig:

Skywatcher N150-750

ZWO ASI 294 MC PRO

ZWO EAF

Skywatcher EQ3 Pro

ZWO ASI 120 MC

60-240mm guide scope

Captured in N.I.N.A.

Guided with PHD2

Plate Solved with ASTAP

Stacked in DSS

Processed in Pixinsight & Photoshop CC & Astropanel 5.0

Bortle 7 Skies

 

2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly

this is a color matched metallic blue on a Yamaha R6r, with a high durability clear coat

Target IC434 (Horsehead Nebula)

Camera SBIG STL-11000M CCD Camera

Subframe exposure 1200 seconds x 10 (3 hours & 20 minutes)

Focal Length 1043mm

Filter Hydrogen-Alpha 8nm

Telescope Astro-Physics AP 140 (140mm aperture)

Imaging Location Latitude +30:12:47.40, Longitude +081:36:04.20

Date Taken November 20, 2011 through November 25, 2011

 

ASTROMETRIC SOLUTION RESULTS

Center RA: 05h 41m 18.0s

Center Dec: -02° 21' 41.9"

Scale: 1.78 arcseconds/pixel

Size (pixels): 4008 x 2672

Angular Size: 1° 58' 50" x 1° 19' 13"

Position Angle: 261° 03' from North

RMS: 0.85 (X: 0.60 Y: 0.59)

Number of Stars Used in Solution: 382 (100%)

FWHM: 2.57 pixels, 4.57 arcseconds

 

Image Capture & Image Processing Jonathan Burnett

All the old subframe removed, ready to install the new subframe. Then I will get it sandblasted.

2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly

Passenger side front floor pan and firewall. Where the real damage is. The gap is not from rust. The metal is actually torn. The pan is pushed down on the right side of subframe. The subframe is twisted and pushed back. The floor is pushed up on left side of subframe.

2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly

Teardown of rear hydrolastic subframe

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