View allAll Photos Tagged Subframing
Pay attention to the holes drilled into the subframe in order to lighten it; Also notice the air-jack support. It's hollow to minimize weight.
You can also see the Spoon Sport oil cooler for the rear differential laying flat.
Also, look at the dry carbon fiber belly pan with a hole for the rear air-jack.
Lots of tinkering went into building this S2000.
For more information about ASM Yokohama, please visit:
2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly
Rusty subframes are every Mini owner's worst nightmare, but this pub at the IMM was a bit more pleasurable, and cheaper!
NCR M4 with stock subframe and seat (near)and the M4 one shot with optional structural Carbon Fiber Tail section.
2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly
plastering done on the landing wall, subframe for bottom windows installed. At the front of the landing wall be the 14ft long shoe rack & bench.. for those of you who are wondering: the the wet ktichen & Maid's room live directly behind the plastered wall.
.. This was do to improve access to wet kitchen from the car porch making it easier for us to move groceries to the back of the house (we like to cook at, and plan to entertain at home so easy movement of FOOD is vital)..
putting the wet kitchen & utilities areas at side of the house also improves overall spatial arrangements because 1) the right side of our land is the "least best" (neighboring plot is elevated by 3-5 feet above ours and 2) it allows us to fully uitlize the best view from our land - which the back garden as it fronts several thousand acre of "Kledang" Forest Reserve Land....
2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly
2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly
To reduce engine movement a full set of engine, transmission and subframe mounts were installed. This results in less engine slop between shifts and smooth acceleration off the line.
Stock Subframe Mounts
That is my brother Eric Julson---he loves to cut cars up. It took us 4 days to get it apart and the new subframe tacked on.
Spoon Steering Rack Bushing Kit and Subframe Rigid Collar Kit: Convertible/Open Top car frames are generally weak. OEM's reinforce them to reduce chassis flex and twist. A torsionally weak frame will store suspension energy and release it in an uncontrolled manner. This results in less tire to road contact and unpredictable steering precision.
Lucky for us, Honda did an amazing job of engineering an 'x' frame by adding a backbone frame to tie the front and rear frame rails.
We opted for spoon rigid collars for the front and rear subframe because we've had positive results in other race cars we've built in the past. The subframe through holes are larger in diameter than their matching bolts. The large dimensional tolerances allow for the subframe to shift and bolts to flex. The Spoon rigid collars essentially fill up the "air space" gap if you will, so the amount of flex and shifting now becomes negligible. A primitive way to check for subframe shift is to simply add a couple of small tack welds between the subframe and chassis. An S2k equipped with slicks with 1 day of Buttonwillow testing will simply popped these welds. If not, you're either not driving hard enough or your welds are too large!
The OEM steering rack bushings are made of rubber. Due to the additional grip of running R comps and slicks we found a significant amount of steering play on previous S2000's. The data we collected shows the steering rack was shifting laterally resulting in unpredictable front toe change caused by rubber bushing deflection. Some S2000 enthusiasts assume the root cause is due to improper tie rod angle causing the front to 'bumpsteeer". Measuring front bumpsteer on lightly modded S2000's we find very small amounts of toe change through the swing arc. We can confidently say that most S2k enthusiasts don't need front BSK's however on Irene, we've done so much to the control arm angles, ride height and roll center geometry, adjustable solution is required so we used the Wicked Tuning Anti-Bumpsteer Kit to dial in the front. (REFER TO PHOTOS OF FRONT TIE RODS)
2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly
2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly
2020.04.18 Removing and patching up the subframe. Fixing a few rusty spots, and repaired the broken diff mount. Waiting now for subframe bushings and reassembly
105 x 240sec subframes
The rig:
Skywatcher N150-750
ZWO ASI 294 MC PRO
ZWO EAF
Skywatcher EQ3 Pro
ZWO ASI 120 MC
60-240mm guide scope
Captured in N.I.N.A.
Guided with PHD2
Plate Solved with ASTAP
Stacked in DSS
Processed in Pixinsight & Photoshop CC & Astropanel 5.0
Bortle 7 Skies