View allAll Photos Tagged Solarpowered
(212/365) This little solar powered plywood plane lives on the bay windowsill in my kitchen, when the sun shines the propeller whizzes round. Sadly it hasn't seen much action lately due to the total lack of sunshine gggrrrrrr. This was 5.30pm on Friday - so gloomy I had to use flash. The cacti outside were complaining about the lack of sun too! Happy Wing Wednesday www.flickr.com/groups/wing_wednesday/
As I was helping my mom with her yard yardwork the sun started to go down and her lanterns started to light up. I loved the way these solar lanterns put out rays of light
thanks for all the positive vibes i have been getting about my new book, much love to the flickr massive!
my new bike, she is a sweat ride.
it cooler than ice, it takes a photo every 60 seconds and uploads it to its own flickr account, you can even see the wear the photos are on a map. its part of a new promo campaign for yahoo (flickrs parent company) that i don't quite understand yet but i am sure will become apparent.
so follow my cycling progress at the bikes new flickr account:
www.flickr.com/photos/lomokevs_bike
but to get an idea where the bike has been check out its map:
The Pacific Park ferris wheel on Santa Monica Pier lights up as the sun disappears below the horizon. The same sun, incidentally, that powers the wheel during the day with solar energy.
The first time I'd been back to Santa Monica Pier to shoot since they installed the new State-of-The-Art solar powered Ferris Wheel.
It's pretty amazing for long exposure fans....you can't really see this pattern in real time...oh, the wonders of science, photography, and physics.
I posted this photo to flickr almost two years ago -- but for some reason I never made it public, so I've moved it up to the top of the stream.
I actually got out my tripod for this one. I wanted to capture the solar powered lanterns starting to light up at twilight.
Nikon D300, 16-85mm Nikkor lens and adjusted in Lightroom 2.
One of the coolest, weirdest, and futuristic looking camera I've ever seen.
It's a very rare Canon solar powered 35mm film camera from the 90's. This one is brand new.
Based on the very successful Canon Sure Shot M, it shares the same specs: 32mm f/3.5, 3-point intelligent autofocus, auto-exposure with shutter speeds ranging from 2s-1/250s, electronic self timer, multiple flash modes, red-eye reduction, suppressed and slow-synch, autoloading, DX decoding, advancing, and rewinding of film.
An earthship is a home that is composed of natural and recycled materials. They are off the grid, utilize solar power, are built somewhat into the ground to help regulate temperature, collect water from rain, and are pretty much self sustaining constructions. This particular earthship also had a greenhouse inside that housed plantlife, turtles, birds, and fish. There were chickens in the backyard, too. It also had 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a waterfall, fireplace, and full kitchen. .There is a collection of these earthships out in that region North-West of Taos, New Mexico. As far as I could see in every direction was desert and mountains (Sangre de Cristo). The community is called the Greater World Earthship Community.
For my official site and inquiries, please visit photography.JosephLekas.com
Revue Solar 100 with Auto Revuenon MC 1.4/50,
which is a Cosina E1 Solar with Chinon MC 1.4/50
Clearly based on Cosina's super-versatile model CT1-Super. The E1 Solar was introduced in 1994, and it can be seen as a peak of design of low-budget, fully mechanical SLR cameras. Every aspect was milked until no simpler or cheaper solution was found. It's light and plasticky, gives the impression of a yogurt mug, but Cosina realized a lot of features: DOF-preview, multi-exposure lever, shutter button lock, self-timer with mirror lock-up, a shutter speed of 1/2000 s, etc.
The main attraction of course is the power supply by a solar cell, exactly there are 3 panels on the prism housing. They are not feeding an ordinary battery as buffer, but a capacitor. If there would be a lid in the bottom plate, you would find it where usually is the battery. Unlike a battery the capacitor can hold the voltage only for a short time, but it can be charged very quickly, some minutes in bright sunshine are sufficient. The correct exposure is displayed in the viewfinder by an LCD with usual +o- symbols, and the power consumption of such an LCD is next to nothing. Unfortunately those symbols are black on a transparent background, so they are sometimes hard to read out. The Solar 100 has a switch next to the ISO-dial, which reveals a red or green dot. It can happen, that the capacitor is empty if you want to take pictures. Then you should have the red dot visible, the capacitor will be disconnected and all power from the solar cells will be used for the exposure meter. If the green dot is visible the capacitor will be charged and/or will supply the exposure meter.
Some specs:
* lens mount: Pentax K-mount
* shutter speeds from 1 s to 1/2000 s and B
* shutter works fully mechanical
* ISO range from 25 to 1600 (no DX)
* split-image and micro-prism collar in the viewer
* vertically running metal focal plane shutter
* weight: 430 g
* no battery required!
* center-weighted average metering, no spot meter
* no connection for a motor drive
Another remarkable feature: the viewfinder eyepiece has a built-in -1 diopter correction. Most people should by able to compensate it, and it should by helpful for some shortsighted people in addition. Nevertheless, correction lenses were available of course.
The Chinon E1 Solar was also sold by Ricoh as Ricoh XR Solar (don't mix it up with the Ricoh XR-S, which was also solar-powered, but a completely different camera). The XR Solar was even prepared for the use of a data back. The Revue is not, but its back is also removeable.
My experience with some EPIC light at Nugget Point.
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Malay kampong (or village) houses often have a portion raised above the ground on stilts, and large airy verandahs where the family can relax and greet passing neighbours. Surprisingly this house is still standing till today at Pulau Ubin, well maintained and even had its own solar power.
Pulau Ubin War history:
At midnight on the 7th February 1942, Japanese troops landed unopposed on Pulau Ubin. This was just a decoy and the real attack on Singapore came the day after. On February the 8th, the Japanese directed a strategic air and artillery strike on the north-west coast instead. By 9.30 that night, the first Japanese amphibious assault on Singapore was launched. Undeterred by heavy casualties suffered from Australian machine-gunners, wave upon wave of Japanese troops landed on Singapore's north-west coast. And by midnight of that day the Australian defence was broken.
A recent trip to Ubin with Toshio
Nikon D3X, Carl Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 ZF2
+ no post processing, no cropping, just default settings on Capture Phase One 9
Finally!
Been following this electric car’s development closely for two years (photos)...
The high speed charger is on the left, and thanks to SolarCity, it connects to the solar panels. No more gas!
Well if they are my flowers, there arent any. I have had a very small success with geraniums in window boxes but thats it. This flower is a solar powered gimmick. When the sun hits the solar panel, the flowers sway side to side. Following on from South Australia's example, I could use a big battery, or great big daisy flowers as wind turbines, or even whole fields of huge solar powered daisies.
So it would make a great alternative garden, summer or winter, with nothing I could kill. 👠
Theme:Summer
"365: the 2017 edition","365:2017","Day 193/365","12-Jul-17"
The final mile was a bit worrying, although there are a dozen public chargers within a couple of miles of our house.
A Christmas stocking filler from my wife to keep me amused. It is from a solar robot kit which allows you to make 14 different solar powered robots. Great fun. All I need now is the sun to shine!
Happy New Year to all.
90 of 121 pictures in 2021 - Solar powered
Ricoh XR-S with XR Rikenon 1.4/50
Recently I presented the Revue Solar 100, now I can add the former solar-powered camera made by Ricoh, the XR-S. Unlike the Revue the Ricoh stores the energy from the solar cells not in a capacitor but in a rechargeable battery. Now, after 40 years, that battery is far away from being functional, but fortunately the XR-S can be driven by two common SR-44 button cells.
Without the solar cell feature the XR-S is identical to the Ricoh XR7, which is a better equipped camera in the Ricoh line-up. Better equipped means DOF-preview, multi-exposure button, connection for a winder, removable back, window for f-stops and manual shutter speeds up to 16 s.
Otherwise it offers common standard: Pentax K-mount, aperture priority automatic exposure, metered manual mode, AE-lock, exposure correction, ISO-range 12 to 3600, self-timer, etc; this corresponds to the Ricoh KR-10 super. Not well done is way the shutter speeds are displayed in the viewfinder. An LC-bar imitates a needle, indicating the shutter speed on a scale with transparent background, so if your subject in the viewer is dark you won't see anything.
www.1001pallets.com/2016/09/diy-tutorial-make-solar-power...
This Solar-powered Pallet House Address project recycled and upcycled several things, and only cost 8 dollars, but took creative shopping to keep the price down. This project only needed ONE pallet board, too, so drag out those scraps!
How to make your own Solar-powered Pallet House Address:
Consumable Supplies Needed:
One broken wall clock (or shadow box frame – but should have a GLASS front
House numbers in any style you like (or make your own and skip this purchase)
Solar “dollar-store” yard lights
Scrap piece of wood – any type
Scrap piece of THIN plywood or THIN backer board (if your frame has a good backer board, skip this)
Finish nails
Screws (should come with the house numbers if you buy those)
Water-resistant glue – I used Titebond III PVA wood glue
Clear Silicone Sealant – I had leftover silicone from sealing around our sink and faucets
UV-resistant outdoor spar varnish (optional – if you fully paint your wood you wouldn’t need this)
Heavy-duty construction adhesive – I used “Power Grab” brand (optional)
Wall-hanger (if your frame doesn’t already have one)
NOTE: For all paint, stains, and colorings – these are OPTIONAL. You can just use the natural wood and seal it. I wanted natural wood, but I stained it, and then did some decorative edge painting, etc.
Outdoor Craft / Hobby Paint & fouling paint
Wood Stain – I used two tones for this project
Plastic paint – I used Rustoleum plastic spray paint
Exterior gloss paint – I used Rustoleum oil-based paint from another project
Tools Used:
Small craft paints brush
Small craft foam brush
Sandpaper/sanding sponges
Pencil
Table Saw
Miter Saw
Band saw (jigsaw or scroll saw would work too)
Utility knife
Hand files
Small hand plane
Rotary craft tool (Dremel or similar) OR a plastic cutting tool like a Hot Knife if using a plastic frame
Screwdriver (electric and manual)
Drill
Wood clamps
Solar-powered Pallet House Address – Backer board:
FYI: the “Raincross Bell” is my city’s logo. Use your city’s logo, favorite shape or maybe your initials if you choose.
Step 1. Prepping your frame:
I had a broken wall clock that had a glass face and sturdy plastic frame, so I gutted it.
Find a shadow box you want to use
Set the glass aside somewhere safe
Spray paint the frame if needed (mine did – I used Rustoleum spray paint for plastics in matte black)
Allow to dry
Step 2. Replacing the backer board:
The clock I gutted had a cardboard backer plate, so that was no good other than as a template for a wood replacement so don’t throw it out yet. If you’re using a shadow-box style frame, hopefully, you find one with a backer board sturdy enough to glue too if needed, and it needs to be water resistant.
Use THIN plywood. I used approx. ¼” thick plywood, reclaimed from the top deck of a pallet
Use the cardboard backer board and a pencil to trace out the proper size onto the plywood
Cut the plywood with a band saw or jig saw
Pre-drill the holes out if it covers the mounting locations
Step 3. Prepping the backer board:
Sand the plywood gently and correct any crookedness that happens from the band saw with hand files or by hand-sanding
Wipe all the surfaces down with a very slightly damp cloth to remove the sanding dust * Make sure it is dry before applying stain or paint
Stain or paint it any way you want (I stained mine using Minwax Golden Pecan)
Set it aside to dry for now
Solar-powered Pallet House Address – The background design:
Step 4. Plan your design and address frame clearance restrictions:
Measure the depth from where the backer board sits when installed to the front of the frame
You may need to put your glass back in for a moment to double check this measurement
If you make your project too thick, it won’t sit into your frame correctly, and you’ll be re-sanding to adjust it
Step 5. Cut and begin assembly of your background design:
I made the city logo and used oak scraps from a splintered, broken board that wasn’t much good for anything else. Our city logo is called the “Raincross Bell”, so I searched for images and picked the one that was very simple. Our logo is fairly simple anyways, but I wanted it as easy as possible.
Rip a deck board down into narrow, workable strips – about 1” wide. I used a1x4” deck board
This size will depend on your frame and design
Use the cardboard backer (or your frame) to trace the frame size onto a piece of plain paper * This will give you your maximum design height
Sketch out your design on the paper. Make it as big as possible * You could use a computer and size up or down the design of your choice
Step 6. Start trimming your strips down:
I cut down the strips into small pieces, dry-fit them and set them directly onto my sketch. Next I used files and a small hand plane to adjust any fit issues.
My design consisted of the following pieces:
Two small bars on the top of the “double-cross” * The topmost being shorter than the next one down
Foursquare pieces:
One at the very top of the double-cross
The next between the two bars making the double-cross
The third at the bottom of the cross
And the last one between the top bar of the frame and the top of the bell
Two horizontal bars – the top being narrower than the bottom to create the bell frame
Two vertical bars, equal length to create the bell frame
The bell shape itself
The additional bell clapper shape on the bottom – just a half-circle shape
I also cut two pieces of blocks and painted them black – they’re visible in the photo – they’re where the bottom of the logo sits, so it’s entirely visible in the glass and stabilizes it. I used hook-and-loop tape to doubly-ensure it’ll stay in place.
There were some angles on the outside edges of all the horizontal pieces. I set a miter saw to the angle I wanted and cut them all.
Step 7. Glue your background artwork together:
I used a good-quality, water-resistant PVA glue again (Titebond III). Additionally, I stabilized the top of the cross with a long, thin finish nail down through it all. **NOTE: You may have to glue individual components of your design together and then finish it after the smaller parts are dry, OR you may be able to use a jig saw or a scroll saw and cut it all out of one larger piece of wood. I only had scraps in the color I wanted (to match a bench I made for my front porch), so I had to piece my design together.
Attach your background artwork pieces together with glue
Use any additional fasteners you need to further stabilize your design
Pre-drill anything you are going to nail or screw together
These little pieces want to split!
Stabilize your project with wood clamps while it dries
Solar-powered Pallet House Address – The House Numbers & Final Assembly
Step 8. Create outline cutouts of your house numbers:
We used standard brass numbers we found at a swap meet for a dollar apiece – still new in package. I wanted to highlight them.
Put each number onto another scrap piece of oak and trace them out
Exaggerate the margins to about 3/8” or so in order to make them more visible from the street
No need for exact measuring!
It doesn’t have to be perfect because no one will be that close to it
Just make it please your eye
Of course, you can pre-print everything and use them as templates instead
Step 9. Cut out the house numbers:
Cut them out using a band saw (or jigsaw), and hollow out the centers with a jigsaw (or scroll saw).
Sand down the rough edges with hand files (if necessary), a sanding sponge and then finer sandpaper.
Step 10. Prep for sealing and/or painting:
Use a very lightly damp rag to remove the dust
Allow to fully dry
Do any pre-drilling necessary and re-sand as required
Step 11. Sealing and/or Decorative touches (optional):
I sealed all the wood pieces with a UV-resistant Minwax spar varnish. The photo will show it assembled, sealed, and then the slops of paint on the back of the wood. Next, I painted the number outlines using Rustoleum oil-based outdoor gloss paint – Sunset Red color, that I had left over from another project.
I used more Rustoleum oil-based outdoor gloss paint, this time in Hunter Green, to paint the dried Raincross symbol. The Raincross bell was painted using a bronze craft foiling paint and let it dry.
I also painted a little rope shape at the top of the bell on the little block with craft/hobby paints.
Apply decorative finishes (I used foil paint to outline the numbers)
Seal or paint with whatever you choose
Solar-powered Pallet House Address – Light it up:
Here’s where you can have fun finding things in your local dollar store. I happened to upcycle some Halloween solar lights that we bought for 1$ each piece and used four of them in this project.
Step 12. Removing the Solar Cell Assembly:
Carefully open the light up
Remove the solar cells and the connected circuit board/battery assembly
You may have to use a rotary tool like a Dremel with a cutting wheel to carefully cut wider around the solar cells to free them from the plastic they were molded into
Hand-trim with a utility knife or a hot knife, or even with a rotary tool and a grinding wheel
The soft plastic cuts fairly easily, but wear good gloves and eye protection just in case! **NOTE: You need to avoid flexing the solar cells and be cautious of the cheap, fine-gauge wires. The solder joints are commercial-grade, so they’re not the best.
Repeat for however many lights you want to put in
Step 13. Prepping the frame for the lights:
Drill a small hole for each solar cell assembly
You only need the holes to be big enough to accommodate the wires and/or the base plastic – some of them have a little circle-shaped plastic collar at the base – and if it has that, just make the hole big enough so that the collar fits in snugly
Create a small, narrow slice to the edge of the plastic frame (or saw a narrow slice into a wood frame)
Step 14. Sealing the frame back up/mounting the solar assemblies:
But wait! Now there are holes in your “waterproof” frame! Silicone was my product of choice because we all know those cheap, dollar-store style lights eventually fail, and I wanted to be able to simply cut them out.
Apply a clear, flexible outdoor silicone sealant around (and into) the holes
Gently mount the solar cells on the outside of the frame
Reinforce if necessary
I used more hook-and-loop tape to secure the solar cells to the outside of the frame as extra support in the summer heat
You may want to add another small bead of silicone around the sides where you trimmed the solar cells free to protect the now more-vulnerable cells
Once they are in place, seal the small slices that allowed the wires to be wiggled into the holes with more silicone
To finish, use hook-and-loop material and put a small piece on the inside of the frame, and more on the back of the circuit boards to secure them.
They look ugly in the photos, but from the street, you can’t see the circuit boards. The front edge of the frame hides them enough. You could install battery-powered lights or permanent low-voltage lighting that you could wire into your house if you chose. I kept it low-cost and used what I had around already.
Solar-powered Pallet House Address – Final assembly:
OK! Now that everything is dry, it is time to assemble! I secured the bell inside the Raincross logo with a long, skinny finish nail that I ran up through the clapper portion. The top of the bell was secured well with PVA glue already, but the bottom seemed a little weak, so the nail was insurance.
Step 15. Mount the brass numbers:
Install the numbers onto the pre-painted wood number shapes using the brass screws that came with the numbers
You can use construction adhesive too if you don’t have hardware
Step 16. Installing your wooden number assembly:
Attach the wood numbers to the background artwork with heavy-duty construction adhesive (Loctite Power Grab Instant Adhesive) that has a very fast set time
QUICKLY align the numbers – you have seconds with construction adhesives
You could use fasteners too as an option
Attach any blocks or supports inside the frame with the construction adhesive at this time too
Allow to dry a few minutes
Step 17. Final Assembly:
Apply more adhesive to the back of the artwork and attach it to the backer board
This wasn’t totally necessary, because I had pre-fit the Raincross logo and it actually sat against the frame and the thickness matched the backer board recess. It was just extra reinforcement.
Clean the glass well – you won’t have access to it easily after this
Assemble your project into the frame
Attach a wall hanger to the back of your project frame if it didn’t already have one
Of course, I up-cycled it instead of buying one (used the old one from the clock) and attached it to the back of the plywood
Step 18. Hanging it up:
My husband got the job of getting out the large ladder and installing it on the peak of our little house.
I hope this long-winded description helps you easily make your own Solar-powered Pallet House Address too!
Father Christmas and Mr Snowman contemplating the future out of the car window on a dreary day in Sheffield..
Mr Snowman is reaching out, feeling lonely and down but Father Christmas is leaning away trying to keep some sort of social distance from his friend and Christmas colleague .. Father Christmas is feeling a little bit upbeat hence a bit of colour about him, whereas poor Mr Snowman's hopes and dreams are melting away..
They both need a bit of sunshine to help them shake off the gloom and encourage them through this lockdown time..!
A reworking of an image I posted earlier. Took a MLK Day excursion with my buddies, Steve and Ian to the Santa Monica Pier, which I hadn't shot since they sold the old Pacific Wheel on eBay, and replaced it with this state-of-the-art baby.
I think the old one is now somewhere in Texas or Oklahoma.
I gotta say, the new wheel and the baskets themselves look the same -- but the light show is very cool.
'Solar Powered Nick IV' On Black
№438 on Explore!
Highest position: 437 on Saturday, January 5, 2008
Nick passed away on Feb 21, 2012. He will be missed!! I look forward to seeing him on the other side! A great friend I will never forget!
Unseasonably warm weather brought Lady Liberty for the UW-Hoofers annual winter festival.
Nikon 105mm f2.5 P
The 2008 Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree came from Hamilton, New Jersey. The '08 Tree was donated by the Varanyak family. Tree Facts from the 2008 Tree Facts Postcard (photo by Bart Barlow): Norway Spruce. 72 feet tall, 40 feet wide. Approximately 82 years old. Weight- approximately 16,000 pounds. 30,000 LED lights. (This was the second year that LED bulbs were used on the Tree). A portion of the electrical energy used to light the Tree came from a new installation of photovoltaic panels installed in 2007 on the roof of 45 Rockefeller Plaza. The Tree was topped with a crystal star designed by Swarovski. The 550 pound star is 9 feet in diameter and 1.5 feet deep. It is decorated with 25,000 crystals, with one million facets. The Tree was lighted on December 3, 2008. The Tree's last day on Rockefeller Plaza was January 9, 2009.
291/365 (10-18-2021) 365/2021-2021 Expanding Horizons
291/365 (10-18-2021) 365: The 2021 Edition
90/121 - Solar Powered - 121 Pictures in 2021
We knew that the odds of actually seeing the Aurora Borealis on our trip to Iceland were very slim due to the mostly cloudy, rainy, and windy forecast during our short visit. Not to mention that solar storm conditions would have to be just right to produce the display. In fact, the evening before, despite excellent solar storm conditions which predicted a strong display, they cancelled our Northern Lights boat tour due to dangerously high winds and a thick cloud layer and were informed we could try again the next evening.
The next evening, we were surprised to learn the tour was on and there may be breaks in the clouds with a chance to see the Aurora. So off we went even though we didn't expect to see anything.
About an hour into the trip, the clouds seemed to thin out a bit and there was a small, but brief opening in the clouds and we could see the green lights for a few minutes -unmistakable even with the naked eye. I set the ISO at 20000 on my camera and was able to pick up a band of green light running from the center of the frame to the upper left corner.
Admittedly, trying to see and take photos of the Aurora Borealis from a boat is not the best way to do it, but it was included in the IcelandAir package deal and we were happy to see even this very limited display on our last evening in Iceland!
The plaque below the tree read:
This 25-foot, stainless steel, solar-powered Wi-Fi CommuniTree represents what is possible when someone has the courage to develop a bold vision and the community works together to bring that vision to life. The concept of this structure was the winning idea from the University of Evansville's first Changemaker Challenge in 2016, which invited young people to share their ideas to make the world a better place. Hannah Jaramillo, along with teammates Cody Smith and Austin Fonseca, were part of the Castle High School team that won the 2016 competition, awarding each of them a full tuition, four-year scholarship to the University of Evansville. With Vectren's financing, Hannah then led a diverse and creative team to make it a reality. It is our hope that this CommuniTree will inspire generations of other changemakers to leave their own legacies.
The Burren, County Clare - 09/05/2008
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Mmm lighthouse. :-) Not the most elegant specimen in the world but cute and lovely all the same. :-)
My neighborhood now has a station for rental and return of these bright red bikes. Everything (sky, landscape, light) has been so gray lately that these red bikes seemed the only interesting scene to photograph. A combination of being busy and the blah look of everything lately has resulted in my not being on Flickr much lately--miss you all!