View allAll Photos Tagged Shutter_Speed
Camera Canon EOS 5D Mark II
LensEF 24-105mm
Shutter Speed (1/100)
Aperture F/10
Focal Length 58 mm
ISO Speed 100
Exposure Program Manual
The camera fitted with an uncoated f/3.5 Zeiss-Opton Tessar and Compur Rapid shutter (1 - 1/400 sec) arrived via ebay in a very good condition with hardly any signs of corrosion or paint chipping and with light tight leather bellows. Even the longer shutter speeds below 1/10 second are not delayed and operate fine.
This camera has a five-pointed star (asterisk) behind its serial number, indicating that it is a pre-war camera on storage sold after the war or was produced in the first years after the war (1945-1949), but made of parts from pre-1945 production. According to its serial number starting with "N", this camera body was produced between 1941 and 1943: camera-wiki.org/wiki/Zeiss_Ikon_serial_numbers
The slightly bluish shining front lens element indicates single coating but seems to be a case of surface oxidation, resulting in natural lens coating. Reportedly, there was a short run of uncoated lenses produced in the newly established West-German Zeiss factory immediately after the war. Zeiss-Opton Tessars produced later were always coated and for indication a red "T" has been engraved into the front cell bezel. According to its serial number, the lens of this camera was produced between 1946 and 1951, presumably already 1946 (see low range number): camera-wiki.org/wiki/Carl_Zeiss_serial_numbers
The Ikonta C (6 x 9 cm format) production line started with the 520/2 model, which again was labeled with its catalog number. The 521/2 model produced from around 1938 until 1952 added a shutter release on the top cover of the body and a double exposure prevention. In the early 1950s, the 523/2 model was launched adding a chrome top plate with an integral viewfinder and an accessory shoe. The 524/2 model produced until 1953 added an uncoupled rangefinder and was also called Ikonta M or Mess-Ikonta. Like the Super Ikontas, the C Ikontas were fitted with either a three elements Novar or a four elements Tessar lens, alternatively with a maximum aperture of 3.5 or 4.5. In contrast to the post-war Ikontas, the pre-war models have uncoated lenses with their focal length given in centimeter (rather than in millimeter) on the front lens engraving. The uncoated pre-war lenses (colorless, not bluish) may flare more strongly and can lead to distorted colors if used with modern color film.
For more Information on uncoated lenses see the excellent article by Andrej G posted by Bellamy under Japan Camera Hunter (JCH): www.japancamerahunter.com/2015/03/film-uncoated-lenses-an...
Pre-war Zeiss Ikon folders require some rethinking with regard to their handling: The shutter release button of the Ikonta C model 521/2 and its successors is on the left (in viewing direction), next to the film winding crank. The button to open the camera is on the right, at the typical shutter button place. The red dot signal next to the shutter release button of the Ikonta 521/2 model indicates that the shutter is ready to fire, whereas a red dot signal for example of my past-war Agfa folders indicates that the double exposure prevention is active and the shutter release is blocked. Furthermore, the tripod sockets of the pre-war cameras have a 3/8 inch mount (rather the current 1/4 inch mount), but adapters are available.
General remarks:
Folding cameras deliver medium format in a truly pocketable form. Their compact size makes them great travel cameras. The basic concept of folders is a flexible structure between camera body and lens so that the camera can be folded up. The bellows as the folding element makes folders compact but is also the weak point of the design by developing light leaks, especially in the folds and the corners. Folders have to be opened by pressing a button on the top plate. Powerful springs release the lens cover and push the lens into working position. As a result of the big negative size, medium format folders give far more resolution than any 35mm camera, along with very smooth images (a huge amount of detail with finer grain and better tonality). The results look very clean and sharp, with a lovely background blur when the aperture is set wide open. Compared to the clinical data of digital sensors, film emulsions deliver more imperfection and therefore appear less sterile. The texture of the grain and the tone of the color produce a certain feel or look, that digital photos lack. High-resolution scans of large negatives deliver an ideal basis for digital picture editing. But you get only between 8 and 16 shots per film roll, depending on the film format.
Using folding cameras requires some care and forces you to make some serious decisions before taking a picture. The shooting procedure is fully manual, which means that all parameters have to be set up by hand: You have to adjust the distance, the aperture, and the exposure time, allowing the time to make sure they are set up correctly. Optimal exposure requires the use of an external exposure meter, which delivers the range of aperture and exposure time combinations available for the given light and personal demands. With their archaic film advance, the uncoupled rangefinder, the front cell focusing, and the lack of an exposure meter, most medium format folding cameras are no point and shoot cameras. But slowing down by carefully adjusting and controlling the decisive photographic parameters increases the amount of satisfying pictures and revaluates each single shot.
But using vintage folding cameras can be highly problematic: Agfa Isolettes, for example, are infamous for the poor plastic material used to make the original bellows. Constant opening and closing over many decades leave tiny pinholes, particularly in the corners. Ikontas and Super Ikontas, however, come with leather bellows, which normally remain light tight for many decades, provided that the camera has been stored carefully. Besides the problems with light leaks, the lubricants used by the camera manufacturers prior to the 1970s or 1980s are another weak point. They often cause frozen or stiff focusing rings and retarding shutters, the latter resulting in strong overexposure. Dust in the shutter mechanism and fungus or haze between the lens elements are further items. For proper function, the lenses and shutters usually must be disassembled, cleaned (sometimes adjusted), and reassembled.
There are only few experts with sufficient know-how. This camera has been checked and sold by Foto Wiesner, Coburg (Germany).
Some valuable tips for using vintage folding cameras have been listed here: www.petrakla.com/pages/folding-camera-tips
I'm getting very close to launching a kickstarter for my new shutter speed tester. It's called the Phochron XA. Software is done, the second pass proto is done. I just need to start drumming up interest.
I've sent one to Mr. Mark O'brien to bring out to the guys at the film photography project (FPP) for evaluation.
Here's a shot of it's sensor stuck into the rear end of an old box camera for testing its consistency and what speed it's actually running at.
Check my album for more shots of it in action.
Stay tuned....
Swida anyone? Andrena platyparia is part of small closely related group of four Eastern North Americans (all with the first name of Andrena) that like to feed their babies pollen from the shrubby dogwoods. The fact that they specialize in pollen from shrubby dogwoods (this is the so called Swida group of dogwoods) and not the Dogwood that everyone fawns over (Cornus florida or the flowering dogwood (which, while not so great for bees does have the most amazingly sensual wood, it polishes to such slinky smoothness when sanded down with ultra fine grits that I use them as railings in my house and posts just so that I can touch them as I go by (this may seem slightly odd, but it is not, you just don't have access to dogwood wood, or you would do this too))). So, back to the main point, plantaxonomists have argued for year that the Swida group deserves its own genus and, as you can see, bees like A. platyparia vote the same way. If you plant some Swidas in your yard you are pretty much guaranteed to get one of the 4 Swiditarian Andrena in your yard too. Photo by Cole Cheng.
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All photographs are public domain, feel free to download and use as you wish.
Photography Information:
Canon Mark II 5D, Zerene Stacker, Stackshot Sled, 65mm Canon MP-E 1-5X macro lens, Twin Macro Flash in Styrofoam Cooler, F5.0, ISO 100, Shutter Speed 200
We Are Made One with What We Touch and See
We are resolved into the supreme air,
We are made one with what we touch and see,
With our heart's blood each crimson sun is fair,
With our young lives each spring impassioned tree
Flames into green, the wildest beasts that range
The moor our kinsmen are, all life is one, and all is change.
- Oscar Wilde
You can also follow us on Instagram - account = USGSBIML
Want some Useful Links to the Techniques We Use? Well now here you go Citizen:
Best over all technical resource for photo stacking:
Art Photo Book: Bees: An Up-Close Look at Pollinators Around the World:
www.amazon.com/Bees-Up-Close-Pollinators-Around-World/dp/...
Free Field Guide to Bee Genera of Maryland:
bio2.elmira.edu/fieldbio/beesofmarylandbookversion1.pdf
Basic USGSBIML set up:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-_yvIsucOY
USGSBIML Photoshopping Technique: Note that we now have added using the burn tool at 50% opacity set to shadows to clean up the halos that bleed into the black background from "hot" color sections of the picture.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bdmx_8zqvN4
Bees of Maryland Organized by Taxa with information on each Genus
www.flickr.com/photos/usgsbiml/collections
PDF of Basic USGSBIML Photography Set Up:
Google Hangout Demonstration of Techniques:
plus.google.com/events/c5569losvskrv2nu606ltof8odo
or
www.youtube.com/watch?v=4c15neFttoU
Excellent Technical Form on Stacking:
Contact information:
Sam Droege
sdroege@usgs.gov
301 497 5840
5 flash pops throughout, blended with one ambient. Harsh light coming through that window forced the high shutter speed. Shot with my new tilt shift lens at f10. CC always appreciated!!
Note on the Rokinon Tilt Shift, for those considering it. Not bad, but not great either. Definitely worth the price, but I have my sights set on the Nikkor lens when I can justify the expense. Shortcomings: pretty bad barrel distortion, and a warm cast. All correctable in post with a couple clicks, but the distortion is surprising, and the subsequent crop when correcting for it is more substantial than I'd like it to be. For the price, worthwhile compromises.
When editing this photo, I adjusted the brightness, contrast, and I made the orientation match up to the horizon. I lowered the brightness because the background of this photo was extremely bright, I wanted to mellow the harshness of the light. The contrast on the other hand was turned up slightly, it brought out more detail in the water. I cropped the imagine to get ride of some background that was still very bright after I turned the brightness down.
Built a tiny Shutter Speed Tester.
create.arduino.cc/projecthub/hiroshootsfilm/shutter-speed...
Classical film cameras have mechanical shutter that doesn't require a battery. However, film camera shutters that have not been used for many years may not work accurately. Shutter Speed Tester checks if the shutter speed of the film camera is accurate.
桃園縣大園鄉Dayuan Township, Taoyuan County
Camera Model : Canon EOS 7D
Shooting Mode : Aperture-Priority AE
Tv( Shutter Speed ) : 1/250
Av( Aperture Value ) : 8.0
Metering Mode : Spot Metering
ISO Speed : 100
Lens : EF300mm f/4L IS USM
Focal Length : 300.0mm
White Balance Mode : Auto
AF Mode : One-Shot AF
AF area select mode : Manual selection
Picture Style : Standard
Sharpness : 7
Contrast : -2
Saturation : 1
Color tone : 0
影像品質 : RAW(Adobe Photoshop Lightroom)轉JPEG檔
影像後製軟體 : Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5
版權所有不得轉載 © All rights reserved
Please don't use this image on websites, blogs or other media
without my explicit permission.
Shutter Speed: fast
Movement: frozen
Aperture: small
Depth of Field: shallow
Light: filtered light from right
Colour: complementary
Latest PP Camera School challenge/homework. Photograph water using slow shutter speed. Shoot in jpg, AWB - emphasis on composition and not blowing highlights.
How hard could that be? !!!
Seduced by the textures and colours as the water cascades at Cramond weir. Let's call this 'a detail' shot and not for submission as there is no foreground rock for context.
I love the glassy reflections in this one :)
A Winter afternoon at Bærums Verk, experimenting with hand-held long shutter speeds....
Nikon D200
AF-S Nikkor 18-200 mm G ED VR
66 mm
shutter priority
1/4 s hand-held (Long live the VR! :-) )
F16
ISO 100
Pentax K-30
mode aperture priority f/11; shutter speed 13"; ISO 400
Tokina 19-35mm F3.5-4.5 AF
Metz mecablitz 48 AF-1 digital for Pentax
PENTAX AF 500FTZ flash (slave mode)
Sigma EF-610 DG Super PA-PTTL flash (slave mode)
Snapshot Sniper LCD trail camera board motion sensor
Cactus Wireless Flash Transceiver V5
Camtraptions Transmitter/Receiver
DIY DSLR camera trap
[IMGP2797]
Project Flickr - April challenge to experiment with Shutter Speed
It's still too cold to do much experimenting outdoors, so I decided to do some high speed macro experiments in my tiny kitchen studio. My NEX camera maxes out at 4,000, but that is way above anything I've ever done before! So I am a complete novice - and these are my 'confessions' ;o)
I use Manual mode for my macro work, so all the settings are adjustable. I found that lighting the shot well was a problem, and also noise at high ISOs. I used Continuous Burst drive mode to give me the best chance of catching the movement. I chose 3 'consistencies' - dry (sugar) thick liquid (cream) and thin liquid (water). All 3 presented their own problems. So I'll post some of the results over this weekend.
After trying cream I decided that something dry might be easier, and offer some relief from constant mopping up ;o) So I began with ordinary granulated sugar. This time I used a small teaspoon and a frozen raspberry (that quickly thawed out under the hot lights). The sugar created its own problems - it bounced all over the place - and I'm still picking it out of the kitchen and equipment! Delivery was a problem too - even a tiny funnel resulted in a deluge of sugar. Finally I had to gently sprinkle the sugar by hand. Again the SS was set at 1600 and I used Continuous Burst
Shot with the Sony NEX-6 using the E30mm F3.5 macro lens
See the whole of my Project Flickr 2014 set here: www.flickr.com/photos/e_liddell/sets/72157639380868835/
My son Rob and his girlfriend, Sophie, took some of my family on a wonderful evening out to see the Enchanted Woodland Walk at Syon Park in west London. Each year for the last two weeks in November to early December they dress up the trees with illumination that rivals Blackpool!
Despite some minor defects (they could do with more sound) the event is excellent. I’d recommend anyone who can get to Syon Park to try and get there. It really is magical. You can find out more about the event here… www.enchantedwoodland.com/
The photographs in this set are the ones I took to try and capture some of the atmosphere. Inevitably, some work better than others. The viewer should bear in mind that apart the lighting of the trees and the effect of the lights on the various subjects, it’s still very dark!
I will put individual comments on to those I like more than others. Overall I’m pleased with what I took, though the use of a tripod might have helped on some of the pictures. Sometimes I had to rack up the ISO to get a shutter speed that was capable of capturing a shot. Even then some of the shutter speeds were slow. All of the photographs were taken ‘handheld’ and no use of a tripod was actually made.
blue
Shutter Speed (fast)
Movement (frozen)
Aperture (medium)
Depth of Field (, medium
Light (small, filter, side)
Colour (harmony or theme used), contrast
Idiom (identify where used): out of the blue
Shot with a 1955-56 model Rolleiflex Automat 6x6 (3.5 B - Model K4B) TLR camera. Carl Zeiss Tessar f/3,5 75mm lens with Synchro - Compur shutter, on Kodak 400 TX Black and White Negative Film (120 Roll Film). My first roll in this camera.
Film developed at Oslo Foto, negative scanned with Epson Perfection V600 and processed in Lightroom & Photoshop.
No info on shutter speed and aperture.
© Aslak Tronrud 2017
Too lazy to get up and find the tripod, so DOF could have been better. Tweaked aperture and shutter speed a bit, and the Canon macro lens stabilizer again worked miracles.
Manufactured by: Zeiss Ikon, Dresden, Germany
Model: 1935, Zeiss catalog no.520, Produced between 1932-1938
Folding film camera, film 120 roll, picture size 6x4.5 cm , 16 frames
Lens: Novar - Anastigmat f: 3,5 / 7 cm, serial no.1310428
Aperture: f/3.5 - f/16, no click stops,
setting by a pointer and dial on the front lower side of the lens-shutter barrel
Focusing: manual front focusing, guess the distance,
Focus range: 1.2 -10m, +inf.
Shutter: Compur leaf shutter, speeds: 1-1/300 +T, B, no click stops,
setting: dial and ring on the lens-shutter barrel
T and B not cock via the shutter lever, they works only via pressing shutter release
Shutter cocking lever: on the shutter
Shutter release lever: on the shutter
Cable release screw: a separate screw on the top of the shutter
Winding knob: on the right of the bottom plate
Viewfinder: folding optical finder, self-erecting, on the top plate
Landscape shot: when the camera on vertical position (reverse due to the frame size)
Portrait shot: when the camera on horizontal position (reverse due to the frame size)
Viewfinder release button: on the top plate, beside the finder
Bellows release: Automatic opening, by a button on the top plate, right side of the finder
Bellows closing: by pressing two small silver handles on top of the struts
Flash PC socket: none
Back cover: Hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Engravingson the back cover leatherette: Zeiss Ikon logo and 520
Red windows: Two, due to the old, not standardized numbering of the 120 roll films, at that time no numbers for half frames, so with two windows you can use 6x9 numbering: To start, the film is wound until the numeral "1" is seen in the first window. After the exposure, the same numeral is advanced to the second window for the second exposure. You must do some exercise for not winding past the mark as the film is traveling a very short lateral distance.
Hand strap: leather, w/ strap lugs
Tripod socket: old type 3/8''
Body: metal, Weight: 442g, Dimensions: 11.5x8.5x3.5cm (folded)
Serial no. 1229521 (on the shutter)
Ikonta A catalog number 520, the 4.5 x 6cm format not receiving a suffix to it's number.
The first of the Ikonta cameras were the 520 series. They were available as 520 (4.5 x 6cm), 520/2 (6 x 9cm), 520/14 (5 x 7.5cm), 520/15 (6.5 x 11cm), 520/16 (6 x 6cm) and 520/18 (3 x 4cm). Ikonta 520 is the smallest Ikonta camera, and the letter designation to its size is A.
A high shutter speed at Durrington Roundabout gave me this remarkable shot, hope you like it!
Press 'F'
Press 'L'
Lens release: button on the left side of the lens mount
Focus modes: Autofocus and Manual with electronic rangefinder
Autofocus modes: single servo AF with focus priority and continous servo AF with release priority
AF detection system: TTL phase detection system - Nikon Advanced AM200 module
AF detection range: EV minus 1 to EV 19 at ISO 100.
AF lock: possible in single servo AF mode once a stationary subject is in focus as long as the shutter button is depressed; in continuous servo AF
Electronic rangefinder: available in manual focus mode with an AF Nikkor and other AI-type Nikkor lenses with a maximum aperture of f/5.6 or faster
Depth of Field preview button: on the right side of the lens mount
Shutter: Electromagnetically controlled vertical-travel focal-plane metal shutter,
Speeds: 30 - 1/8000 +B, automatic or manual speed setting is possible
Shutter release: by motor trigger, automatic motor drive winding and cocking,
Frame counter: additive type, counts back while film is rewinding, auto-resets
LCD panel information: shutter speed, aperture, exposure mode, metering system, film speed, DX mark, electronic analogue display, exposure compensation mark, frame counter/self timer/multiple exposure, exposure compensation value, film advance mode, film loading, film rewind, self timer, panel on the right of the top plate
Command input control dial: a thumb wheel, on the right of the top plate
Viewfinder/LCD panel illumination: by pressing button on the back side of the top plate
Viewfinder: fixed eyelevel SLR pentaprism, high-eyepoint type, w/ Eyepiece hood
Focusing Screen: Fixed Nikon advanced B-type Bright-View screen, interchangeable with E-type screen
Viewfinder information: focus indications, exposure mode, shutter speed/ISO, aperture/exposure compensation, electronic analogue display, exposure compensation mark and flash-ready are all shown in LCD readout, also shows flash recommended/ready light LEDs
Exposure meter: Matrix metering, centre-weighted metering (75/25) and spot metering
Activates by lightly pressing the shutter release button, stays on for approx. 8 sec. after finger leaves button
Film speed range: 6-6400 ASA, setting: DX code or by manual override, setting by the LCD display and the mode knob on the multi-settings dial on the left of the top plate
Metering range: EV 0 to 21
Exposure modes: fully Programmed auto-multi, shutter priority auto, aperture priority auto and manual, setting by the LCD display and the mode knob on the multi-settings dial on the left of the top plate
Programmed auto exposure control: Both shutter speed and aperture are set automatically, 1 EV increments of aperture is possible
Activated by lightly pressing the shutter release button, stays on for approx. 8 sec after finger leaves button
Exposure compensation: within +/- 5 EV range in 1/3 EV steps, button on the front of the LCD display
Auto exposure lock: by sliding the AE-L lever on the back side of the top plate, while the meter is on
Multiple exposure button: the knob on the multi-settings dial on the left of the top plate coupled with rewind release button, up to 9 exposures can be set
Film loading: film automatically advances to first frame when shutter release button is depressed once
Film advance: in single-frame shooting mode, film automatically advances one frame when shutter is released; in continuous high or continuous low shooting modes, shots are taken as long as shutter release button is depressed; high speed 3.3 fps; low 2.0 fps.
Film rewind: by simultaneously pressing buttons with red rewind markings in front of the LCD display and the knob on the multi-settings dial on the left of the top plate, rewind stops auotomatically when film is rewound
Flash synch. X, 1/60 to 1/250
Dedicated flas unit is Nikon Speedlight SB-24
Self-timer: electronically controlled; timer duration selectable from 2 to 30 seconds in one second increments, blinking red LED on the front of the hand grip, indicates self-timer operation, cancellable, button on the left of the top plate
Remote control terminal: on the left-front side of the camera, w/ a lid
Back cover: hinged, interchangeable with Nikon Multi-Control Back MF-21 or World Time Data Back MF-20, w/ film cartridge confirmation window
Others: Hot-shoe; Tripod socket 1/4 inch; Strap lugs
Body: metal; Weight 695g, wo/lensBattery: 4 AA alkaline batteries, battery chamber opens by a screw on the right bottom side of the camera and the battery holder slides out
On/off switch: on the right of the top plate
"What then is time? If no one asks me, I know. If I wish to explain it to one that asketh, I know not."
- Aurelius Augustinus (354 - 430 BC)
I didn't even know there WAS a Bronica ECTL-ii. It's like an ECTL (which I also didn't know about until recently) but with some shutter speeds left out (slow speeds are auto-only I guess). Okay, I unlazy'ed slightly and looked it up:. The TL had slow speeds down to 4 seconds, and indicated the speed in the finder in both manual and auto modes. The TLii has slow speeds to 1 second, does not display speeds below 1/30 in the finder, and displays them only in auto mode.
Took this video of a water balloon being popped with a very fast shutter speed and got this. It's like a bulb of water. The dark background also added to the picture's effect in my opinion
OMNI strip, Angeles City. Set the shutter speed @ 1/1000 for the mechanic, so as to baby-proof the camera. Forgot to change the settings on the ground, so got prop blur.
台北市台灣大學Taipei City
Camera Model : Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Shooting Mode : Aperture-Priority AE
Tv( Shutter Speed ) : 1/40
Av( Aperture Value ) : 1.8
Metering Mode : Spot Metering
ISO Speed : 200
Lens : EF35mm f/1.4L USM
Focal Length : 35.0mm
White Balance Mode : Auto
AF Mode : One-Shot AF
Picture Style : Portrait
Sharpness : 7
Contrast : -3
Saturation : -1
Color tone : 2
影像品質 : RAW(Adobe Photoshop Lightroom)轉JPEG檔
影像後製軟體 : Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4
版權所有不得轉載 © All rights reserved
Please don't use this image on websites, blogs or other media
without my explicit permission.