View allAll Photos Tagged Shutter_Speed

At 1/80th of a second shutter speed, I didn't really 'freeze' the droplets, but it still gives a nice backdrop as these gulls rest on the rocks.

 

Enjoy!

Canon EOS 550D

 

Canon Speedlite 430EX II

 

F/9

Sec : 8

Iso : 100

 

CANON Lens 18-55

  

thanks to all

ISO: 200

Aperature: F4.5

Shutter Speed: 1/2

 

High shutter speed is good for this kind of shot

Shutter Speed: 1/350 second

Aperture: F/5.6

Focal Length: 170 mm (Nikon DX)

 

I spotted this squirrel in a flower bed in a local garden.

 

Shutter speed - 1/2500

Aperture - F/5

ISO - 500

Taken with a long shutter speed, Monsal Trail 2016

The last of the sun striking the face of Half Dome at Yosemite National Park.

 

Camera: Olympus E-620

Aperture: F11

Shutter Speed: 1/6s

Sensitivity: ISO 100

Lens: Zuiko 11-22 @ 17mm

Filters: Lee ND Grad

  

www.stevengwalkerphotography.com

Recent experimentation with slow shutter speed. This set of pictures is inspired by the idea of old school aliens and hypnoses, reminiscent of 1960s sci fi films. I asked the subject to rotate the green light in a spiral and intended to capture the effect of a torch light 'halo' behind her hair, i was interested in how slow shutter speed would pick this up. I decided to make a triptych out of these images as i felt each added a different cosmic aspect and they compliment each other and the theme, even though the middle one was a happy accident caused by picking up someones camera taking a light reading. I used a tripod to keep the camera steady.

Eva has this unique (at least in Estonia) programmable LED hula-hoop which is just too cool to not take pictures of using longer shutter speed. Here's one of the results. What do you think?

 

Model, MUA and Styling: Eva Pajus

Project Flickr - April challenge to experiment with Shutter Speed

It's still too cold to do much experimenting outdoors, so I decided to do some high speed macro experiments in my tiny kitchen studio. My NEX camera maxes out at 4,000, but that is way above anything I've ever done before! So I am a complete novice - and these are my 'confessions' ;o)

I use Manual mode for my macro work, so all the settings are adjustable. I found that lighting the shot well was a problem, and also noise at high ISOs. I used Continuous Burst drive mode to give me the best chance of catching the movement. I chose 3 'consistencies' - dry (sugar) thick liquid (cream) and thin liquid (water). All 3 presented their own problems. So I'll post some of the results over this weekend.

After trying cream I decided that something dry might be easier, and offer some relief from constant mopping up ;o) So I began with ordinary granulated sugar. This time I used a small teaspoon and a frozen raspberry (that quickly thawed out under the hot lights). The sugar created its own problems - it bounced all over the place - and I'm still picking it out of the kitchen and equipment! Delivery was a problem too - even a tiny funnel resulted in a deluge of sugar. Finally I had to gently sprinkle the sugar by hand. Again the SS was set at 1600 and I used Continuous Burst

Shot with the Sony NEX-6 using the E30mm F3.5 macro lens

See the whole of my Project Flickr 2014 set here: www.flickr.com/photos/e_liddell/sets/72157639380868835/

"The Little Red Farm"

Location : Texel, Netherlands

 

Panorama (3 4:3 vertical images)

Iso > 400

Focal Lenght > 55mm

Shutter Speed > 1/500

F > 13

 

www.claudiofasettiphotography.com

 

©Claudio Fasetti Photography All rights reserved

Here are some pictures from this morning's sea eagle trip in Flatanger with Ole Martin Dahle, "the eagle man".

 

I was absolutely blessed with sunshine which wasn't too harsh and it meant that i could handhold a 500mm with some pretty decent shutter speeds.

 

I cannot praise Ole enough for his knowledge of the eagles. He knew the birds inside out and was also giving me advice on which lens to use for which birds. For the more nervous eagles I used a 500mm and the more aggressive ones I used a 300mm. Most of the ones I was happy with ended to be the ones taken with a 500mm. The downside to this of course is at one stage there were 4 sea eagles circling around but I couldn't get that shot of them together. Better luck next time.

 

I cannot recommend this trip highly enough and I really really don't say this very often!

An astonishing year for hummingbird hawkmoths. For the first time ever - to my knowledge - there were 2-3 in the gardens at Copped Hall just below Epping.

 

Shutter speed was 1/3200 and the wings are still blurred.

Ikoflex II/III circa 1938

Zeiss Triotar 75mm f3.5

Fomapan 100

 

Last of the test roll.

 

Verdict?

 

Lovely vintage lens, shutter speeds accurate, frame spacing all out of whack. Going to keep it around for a while though.

   

It was an amazing Sunday with fantastic weather and people out enjoying nature and family. Tossing the football around was a great activiity!

Minox 35 ML with Color-Minotar 2.8/35

 

Compact camera for 35 mm film with manual focusing, aperture priority automatic exposure and programmed shutter AE.

It was introduced in 1985, about 10 years after the first Minox 35, the 35 EL. It has a broader top, but otherwise it looks pretty much the same. And it has some nice improvements, which make the camera very usable, e.g. it uses a battery which is available today, has an exposure lock and the shutter speeds are indicated in the viewfinder with some LEDs instead of a needle.

 

Some specs and features:

* Shutter speeds from 1 s to 1/500 s @ ISO 100 (at the long end faster/slower for higher/lower ISO-values)

* Electronic shutter

* ISO range: 25 to 1600

* Lens with 4 elements

* Nearest focus distance: 0.9 m

* For advancing the film you have to swing the advance lever twice

* Switches for self-timer and exposure correction ("x2" = +1 EV)

* Battery test button

* Thread for cable release

* Tripod socket

* Bright frame viewfinder without parallax marks

* If the flap is closed, the shutter button is locked and the electronic is switched off entirely (no battery consumption)

* Exposure lock with half-pressed shutter button

* Battery required: PX 28, 6 V. Or a stack of 4xLR44.

* In the viewer LEDs for P-mode, underexposure/slow shutter speeds (> 1/30), shutter speed ranges 1/30 .. 1/500 s, overexposure. In P-mode only "P" and underexposure/slow speeds are indicated. The brightness of the LEDs is adapted to the scene.

* Minox offered 3 flashes for the ML (and its sister, the MB): MF 35, MF 35ST and MT 35 (the most powerful, GN 26). You can use most other common flashes, but not Minox flashes which are made for Minox 35 cameras with the smaller top (FC 35, FC 35ST, TC 35 for 35 GT, PL, GL, EL).

* A switch in the hot shoe sets the shutter speed automatically to 1/125 s when a flash is mounted

* Size: 32 x 62 x 100 mm

* Weight: 180 g with battery

 

When buying another camera I got this ML for free additively - "I doesn't work anyway!" It was actually in a poor condition: cracks in the housing, window pane of the frame counter pushed in and the locking lever of the film chamber was broken away. Fortunately the previous owner kept it in the film chamber, so I just glued it on again. But when I pressed the shutter button, suddenly a shutter blade lay across in the lens - and I felt challenged.

So I opened the lens from the front side. Warning: if you remove the aperture ring, you simultaneously pull out a pin, which reaches deep into the camera, and it will require some work on reassembling. But I found the reason for the shutter blade on-the-run: the three blades are hinged between two rings, and those rings are hold together by three screws, which can be found under the aperture ring. Two of the screws were unscrewed entirely, the rings were loose and the shutter blade could slip away. I'm not the only one who has trouble with those screws, like I could see in some videos. If they are loose and sticking out, they can block the aperture ring.

For reassembling you possibly want to adjust the focus ring - with a matt screen at the focal plane and without B. You can darken the exposure meter cell and fire the shutter, it will open for a second, so you'll have time to remove the battery ..

 

While I was pottering around I noticed, that the only way to close the diaphragm is the aperture ring, there is no further connection. So how on earth the camera can close the diaphragm in program mode? The answer: it isn't necessary. In program mode (aperture ring to "P") the diaphragm is fully opened, and the camera uses the shutter blades instead to stop down, like on the Lomo LC-A and Konica C35. Nice design. BTW, it is the toggling between the two exposure modes which requires the pin on the rear of the aperture ring, which reaches deep into the camera.

 

You probably know, that older Minoxes are sometimes not very reliable: the shutter makes click, but it doesn't open. I thought, that this flaw was eliminated on later models, but I have the same trouble with the ML. And maybe I found a solution. If you open the camera back you can remove the baffle around the lens. It's just clicked in, but it is somewhat delicate, the two hooks are on top and below. With the baffle removed you have an excellent view onto the shutter assembly. You can see two magnetic coils, the one on top opens the shutter, the one below closes it. In front of each coil is a lever which is pushed away, when the coil is activated. Each lever is catching a pin which is connected with the shutter blades, when the shutter is cocked by operating the advance lever. It are those pins which are released, when the shutter is fired. Now, sometimes, the closer-pin is not pushed far enough to be caught when the advance lever is turned. That means, the shutter doesn't leave the closed position, and is already closed when the shutter is fired. So, on the right side you can see a strong lever, shaped like a fork, which transmits the movement from the advance lever to the shutter. My idea is, to "lift" that lever a tiny bit, so that the closer-pin is pushed further and can be caught. For that I loosen the two strong screws which are holding that lever, then I pushed the lever minimally upwards (and tightened up the screws again of course). As a result, the closer-pin is always caught, the shutter opens whenever the shutter button is pressed. I don't know, if this is working on every Minox 35, but here it looks very promising, still not tested with film though.

So is it Fast shutter speed, think fast or you will miss the pop or gee I'm running out of balloons really fast trying to get this shot. I think they all work. Another new thing to try and my daughter had lots of fun popping the balloons.

Shutter speed - 1/2000

Aperture - F/5

ISO - 1000

02/10/2016 (Sun) 1817Carnforth390043 Virgin Explorer 9S80 1440 Euston - Edinburgh via Birmingham

  

If you like railway pictures that are a bit different to the norm, try the Phoenix Railway Photographic circle website;

  

www.phoenix-rpc.co.uk/index.html

 

I wish I had the camera set just a little faster to stop the wings.

This little bee was quite energetic as he worked to collect all the pollen he could find before the flowers are all gone.

I took this photo with an ISO of 200. I chose to take it like this to be able to identify the difference from a low ISO to a high one. I realized that the lower it is the less aperture/brightness it will have.

Breaking the rule of thirds the shutter speed on this Canon AE-1 is set to it's default flash setting of 1/60th of a second.

 

Our Daily Challenge - Break The Rules - 7/14/16

The Motherwells heritage center shutter.

Shot with coloured gell & edited in Photoshop.

"Larry, this fame thing?"

"Yeah, Sal?"

"It's getting old."

 

www.flickr.com/photos/halvorsong/

Taken at Kylemore in Connemara as this stranger took pictures of what is possibly the most photographed view in the West of Ireland - Kylemore Abbey.

 

I hope she got her shutter speed right!

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