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Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ200 12.1 MP Digital Camera with CMOS Sensor and 24x Optical Zoom. Read Full Review
cameras.alfredklomp.com/optima1535/
"All Optimas have:
a HUGE brightline viewfinder that makes them useful to people with glasses;
one single thumb lever that winds or rewinds the film, depending on the polarity set by a push button;
a foolproof quick-loading system;
the big Sensor shutter release with a clear pressure point;
automatic exposure;
an f/2.8 lens (fast and practical);
a plastic slab that (briefly) protects the exposed film from fogging when you accidentally open the back;
a plastic-coated, all-metal body.
The Optimas are very transparently designed cameras (albeit very German in appearance and strangely reminiscent of the Plaubel Makina 6×7), and very compact too. They have an outer shell of plastic-coated metal and mostly metal internals, which makes them very durable. There are a lot of plastic parts, some of which are fairly vital like cogs and such, but I think that here plastics are not so much synonymous with cheapness and shoddiness, but with optimized mechanical characteristics and manufacturability."
Sandia National Laboratories researcher Ronen Polsky holds a prototype of a microneedle fluidic chip device able to selectively detect and painlessly measure electrolytes in the interstitial fluids that bathe skin cells. It features nine sampling needles, each only 800 millionths of a meter (microns) in height, and beneath them, a fluidic channel that can draw interstitial fluid over nine gold disk electrodes. Each disk can be tailored to detect a different analyte. The visible rectangular gold pads are electrical contacts.
Read more at bit.ly/2YOSiiP.
Photo by Randy Montoya.
Tailwater Installation/RIO-204/TW-13-1
Find out more about this senor suppor at: www.simplifiedbuilding.com/blog/sensor-support-structure/
Replaced the IR sensor on our 42" Vizio LCD. Turned out to be pretty easy to do and an cheap ($9) fix.
Tailwater Installation/RIO-204/TW-13-1
Find out more about this senor suppor at: www.simplifiedbuilding.com/blog/sensor-support-structure/
Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory is developing several microelectromechanical-based sensors, which are fabricated from silicon with techniques similar to those used by the electronics industry. MEMS-based sensors are ideal for use in warheads because of their small dimensions, material properties, low power consumption, and mass manufacturability. Embedded sensors must fit into spaces not originally designed to accommodate them. As a result, they must be extremely thin (about one-half the thickness of a human hair) and be able to bend, flex, and stretch to conform to any curved surface. The flexible array of 900 contact stress sensors shown here can conform to any shape. [More information]
Sensor after cleaning with arctic butterfly. Note the marks on bottom and top left which appeared after cleaning
Our Daily Challenge 31 December -6 January : Slot
My chimney sweep is also a fireman and persuaded me to get this!
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
The O2 sensor connector is behind the starter, and for most bikes the starter must be removed to access it.
Before doing anything, disconnect the negative cable from the battery to prevent a short.
Top yellow arrow points to the power connection to the starter. This is live even if the ignition is turned off. After disconnecting the (-) cable at the battery, then disconnect this wire.
Middle yellow arrow points to a friction fit connector. Just pull it off.
Bottom blue arrow points to the O2 sensor connector.
Using Arduino to get the cost of probeware down (for science education).
Vernier's cheapest interface is $61 and handles one sensor: www.vernier.com/mbl
Arduino Uno is $30 and has 6 analog inputs: www.sparkfun.com/products/9950
Our goal is to interoperate with this curriculum: www.concord.org/activities/research-focus/probeware
This is the CCD sensor out of a Casio Exilim digital camera. The LCD was shot, and it was not worth it to get a new one. Plus it was more fun to take it apart :)
That's a pair of wire cutters it's resting on.
This is a new textile sensor to measure water / wetness. It is 100% compatible with the Arduino platform. It detects water by changing its resistance from open circuit to a few megaohms.
Note:
This is RAW straight out of camera processed with default settings in Sigma Pro Photo 4.1 software.
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Every year, I go to Burma/Myanmar and I only take a carry on and a hand bag. Taking a large camera like the 5DMk2 (even a T2i size camera) with a lens or two is not an option for me since I like to go travel light (especially to Myanmar). I wanted a small camera that could produce great quality images, good bokeh when needed, and good colors; l knew not to prioritize it based on high ISO quality. I'll have to give that up for a small camera.
I bought/sold/tried shooting with several cameras--from small, point and shoot size sensor to micro-four thirds. Among the ones I tried, my favorite was the E-PL1 with Panasonic 20/1.7. I wanted to see if I could find something even SMALLER than the Oly/Panny combo without giving up too much on image quality.
I debated between the Samsung TL500 / EX1 and the Leica Dlux4. I was impressed with the quality of Samsung's images I saw on the web (and also the cheaper price). But, I ended up getting the Dlux4 because it had been around longer (RAW files supported by most software), and knew I could get good quality images out of it.
By the time I got the Dlux4, I was already inflicted with Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS)--I wanted another camera of that size that could produce images with even BETTER image quality. Since I couldn't afford a Leica X1, I wanted to try out the Sigma DP2s.
---SIGMA DP2s---
It's "different."
The user interface isn't bad, but not as intuitive as others I have tried. I got used it in a couple of days and I find no issues.
LCD screen is so-so. I can still view images on the LCD under a bright sun--better than E-P2. Image quality could be better, but with low-res screen, it's hard to see whether I've nailed the focus point. I also have the external optical viewfinder. It's small, with nice bright frame lines, but it's not really that accurate. If the camera could auto focus well, it'd be more useful.
The build seems fine. It's similar in size to the DLux4 but a little thicker but lighter. The battery life is average for small cameras (not great but not bad).
Performance-wise, it's a hit or miss. In good light, focus is quick but not instant-quick. In lower light, it takes its time locking focus--I'd say average of about a second or sometimes even two. As a range finder camera user, I don't mind taking a little time to shoot since I'm just looking for a good composition and good image quality. This is perfectly fine for stills but not the best for fast paced kids in action. These days, I shoot mostly my kids but I still find DP2s more than usable. I accept and forgive all the quirkiness of the camera since I know I'll get a few really good shots with it. Maybe it's a personal thing--I prefer it over the Oly E-PL1 because it's a little more "challenging" to use and the reward is much more satisfying.
The software that came with it works amazingly well. In fact, if I try to process the DP2s RAW files in Lightroom, my results won't be as good--or at least, it would take me a lot of time to get it right like SIGMA Pro Photo 4.1 software. Simga Pro Photo processing speed is fast--about 3-4 seconds on my 17" Macbook Pro 2.8Ghz Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM laptop. I can see why many people go goo goo over the FOVEON sensor. The colors are, indeed, rich and the POP of the focused subject is quite similar to what I would get with a Leica Summicron 50/2 lens.
All in all, I'm glad I found the DP2s.
Satélite / Satellite: CBERS-4
Sensor: PAN 10m
Data / Date: 02-07-2016 e 28-07-2016 / 07-02-2016 and 07-28-2016
Bandas / Bands: R3-G4-B2
Onde / Where: Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos, no litoral sul da Bahia, com 266 milhas náuticas quadradas em 2 áreas: Parcel dos Abrolhos (polígono maior) e Recifes das Timbebas (polígono menor). As ilhas do Parque (no centro à esquerda do polígono maior) estão destacadas no quadrado branco. Possui a maior biodiversidade marinha do Atlântico Sul / Abrolhos National Marine Park, on the south coast of Bahia-Brazil, with 266 square nautical miles in 2 areas: Abrolhos Parcel (larger polygon) and Timbebas Reef (smaller polygon). Park Islands (in the center to the left of the larger polygon) are detached in white square. It has largest marine diversity in the South Atlantic.
Cena / Scene: CBERS-4 148/120
The latest version of PNNL’s Sensor Fish floats in water and flashes its LED lights after a test. LED lights help researchers see and retrieve the device.
Terms of Use: Our images are freely and publicly available for use with the credit line, "Courtesy of Pacific Northwest National Laboratory." Please use provided caption information for use in appropriate context.
This was my first nude photoshoot that I did with a great friend up here in Glenwood. This photo was taken in my shower here in the rez hall. Open for questions. This is the photo I turned in for the assignment.
It doesn't work without the Kinect sensor, it's cumbersome (about the same size as a Sony Betamax!), it's heavy (about the same weight as a 3-month old baby!), it's not backwards-compatible (way to go Microsoft faggots!) and it's boxy & generic (what in the blue skies were u smoking?). In other words, it's a BIG BLACK F-A-I-L!
And should it be called 'Xbox Three'? Leave your opinions below
It's pretty annoying when you spend a load of cash on a new toy and the manufacturer hasn't ironed out all the kinks! It seems the mirror of my Nikon D600 is spraying lubricant on the sensor, as the spots visible here are not dust and have increased in number over time.
This shot is completely untouched other than being converted from RAW to JPEG. It is a worst case scenario shot, blue sky at f22, taken to illustrate the extent of the problem.
I took the camera to the shop today, they wouldn't replace the body, so I had to send it in to Nikon for repair. It will be gone for about 2 weeks after only 10 days of use. I am glad I didn't sell my K-5 (just most of its lenses).
It's a real shame as I was just getting used to the camera and liking what it can do. I'd stil recommend this camera, but I'd wait a year until they have fixed this quality control issue.
This is what I get for breaking my rule and buying a new product Day 1.
Oh well, I have got some spots to remove in Lightroom for the next batch of Kusatsu pictures...
After dropping my XTi face down into dirt (more on that here) my sensor got really filthy . Many shots with aperture smaller than f/13 had to be touched up.
My Giottos Rocket Air blower got about 50% of the mess out, but the filth was still unacceptable.
So I decided to get wet cleaning a try and ordered ordered Type 2 cleaning swabs and Eclipse E2 cleaning solution made by Photographic Solutions. After five tries, this is as clean as I could get it. I think I can do better with practice.
Would you consider this clean enough?
How clean is YOUR sensor? Let's see some shots!
To get your sensor dirt to stand out the most, put on a 50mm lens or longer, set the aperture as high as it goes, manual focus to infinity and take a picture of a white piece of paper from a distance of 20-30cm (8 to 12 inches). No need to worry about camera shake, the dust on the sensor shakes with it :)
Now lets see them.
Comments welcome.
The Aerosol Polarimetry Sensor (APS) is designed to study aerosols by observing how light behaves when scattered by the aerosol particles.
Credit: Raytheon
NASA Goddard Space Flight Center enables NASA’s mission through four scientific endeavors: Earth Science, Heliophysics, Solar System Exploration, and Astrophysics. Goddard plays a leading role in NASA’s accomplishments by contributing compelling scientific knowledge to advance the Agency’s mission.
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Sensor ultra-sônico produzido pela SeeedStudio.
O campo de detecção vai de 3cm a 4m. Este sensor trabalha com 5v.
API: garden.seeedstudio.com/index.php?title=Ultra_Sonic_range_...
Sensor in original position was reading approx 5 degrees higher than ambient. Re-positioning resulted in correct temperature readings.
Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay