View allAll Photos Tagged Sensors

Agfa Paratic Shutter as used on the Optima 200 Sensor (second version). Produced c.1969.

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Color-Apotar Middle Lens Ring removed and lying upside-down.

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WARNING :

This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !

Zeiss Ikon TAXONA

Tessar 37.5mm f3.5

Kodak Pro Foto XL100

I was trying to clean my sensors on a Nikon D600 and D7000. The Bblow bulb i used had a plastic tip that shot out of the end and i was worried i may have cracked the mirror!

Si no me equivoco este es el sensor que recibe la luz reflejada por el dvd e interpreta la información leída.

Toda la imagen (horizontal) sería de algo menos de 1 cm.

ODC-Protection

 

We have these sensor lights around our home. They are very bright and go on if something gets close to the house.

Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).

German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.

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At this stage I still had not found a way to remove the Topcover (I have by now) so decided to remove the Paratic Shutter.

 

These 4 screws hold it to the Body.

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WARNING :

This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !

PureView ZEISS 41MP CMOS image sensor 1/1.5-inch.

Shot by smart phone in Taiwan.

APS-C sensor swabs, fluid and dry brush with magnifying glass, cleaning the Sony α 77 ii sensor today.

 

Sony α 77 ii

DT 18-135mm ƒ/3.5-5.6 SAM

The Flickr Lounge-Looking Up

 

We have 3 sets of these on our home.

  

Macaroni penguin, Cooper Bay, South Georgia.

 

I think his name was Christian, but there are around 2 million of them, so I might be confusing him with his brother. Canon EOS-1D X and 200-400mm 1.4x lens.

 

Why do photographs made with the same size sensor look so different? For instance, your smart phone or compact camera might have a 20-megapixel sensor, but the photos it produces don't look nearly as good as those taken with a 20-megapixel DSLR sensor.

 

Yet when you are printing, the literature talks about needing so many pixels per inch or centimetre to make a 'good print'. However, what's really being discussed here is 'aliasing' or the jaggies!

This is a non-scientific explanation.

 

For digital photography, we want lots of pixels so when we make a print or display an image, we don't see jagged or 'stepped' diagonal lines (the errors are called 'aliasing').Think of a chessboard with its squares and imagine what would happen if you tried to use these squares to draw a diagonal line. You'd see all the steps. Now imagine that same board with one million squares. When you draw a diagonal line, the steps are still there, but they are so small you can't see them. Following this logic, a 20-megapixel image from any camera will hide the 'jaggies' pretty well.

 

However, there's more to making a quality image than just eliminating the jaggies. You need high quality pixels as well and the answer lies in the physical size of the sensor, not just the number of pixel sites on the sensor.

 

Larger sensors can hold larger pixel sites, and larger pixel sites generally mean better image quality. A 20-megapixel, full-frame DSLR sensor physically measures 36x24mm and each sensor or pixel site might be, say, 6 microns in size. In comparison, a 20-megapixel sensor on a compact camera or a smartphone is much, much smaller and each pixel site might measure, say 2 microns.

 

This is one of the reasons there is a quality difference. A 2 micron site can't hold as many photons of light as a 6 micron site, so there is less information to work with when it comes to mathematically turning the photons into pixel information. Also, with such small sites, it's easier for the light to 'overflow' from one site to another, contaminating image quality. So, while a compact camera or a smart phone might have as many pixels as a DSLR, the quality of those pixels is not as good (with today's technology). They can look great on a small LCD screen, but as the reproduction size increases, the lack of quality becomes more apparent.

 

There are a lot of other factors that go into the final image quality as well, one of the main ones being lens quality, but I'll save that discussion for another day.

 

WEB | Blog | Donate | Patreon

 

I bought a new blue cycling lycra shorts and i fall in love with it, its very comfortable and i love the color,

  

unfortunately i got a dirt on my sensor :-(

 

Shoted with Sony ILCE 6000

 

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I love film photography most. I started to shoot on the film when i was 12 yo. after my high school I photographed on digital and in 2020 i came back to the film. In two year i spread my point of view to film and raised my family size to medium format 6x6 and 4.5x6 and finaly in 2022 i juped to do Large format 4x5.

Are you interesed into my gear check out this page and look what i`m using and why [My photograpy gear]

If you like my work and want to support me, Thank you and go to adlg.cz/donate

All my photos are in same license, see the info on the site. If you like to use my photo outside of this license pleas write me message with your offer and plan.

  

Quickly view my LargeFormat 4x5 | MediumFormat 6x6 or 645 | 35mm | 360degrees photography

 

A beautiful evening in Napa Valley, known for its wine country.

 

TAKASPHOTO.COM

|| Flickr || My Website || Facebook || Instagram || Twitter || 500px ||

 

Thank you for viewing my photograph!

Sigma 35mm f1.4 DG. Since I shoot with a crop sensor my focal length is 56mm.

Click on the image twice for full resolution!

 

Taken at Gärdesloppet 2024-05-26

agfa 1035 sensor fomapan 400

Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany

Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)

Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief

35 mm film Viewfinder camera

Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8

Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter

setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens

Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale

Focus range: 1-5m +inf.

Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet

setting : ring and scale on the lens

Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,

very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake

Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate

Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)

Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring

Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens

View finder: bright frame finder,

Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate

Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate

Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear

thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now

Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter

Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds

Self-timer: none

Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera

Film loading: special easy quick loading system

Body: metal

Tripod socket: 1/4''

serial no. LW 6837 BC

The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.

Photos by the camera

Long Range Sensors at maximum setting find this Romulan Bird of Prey retreating from the Neutral Zone. What have they been doing there?

 

Small plastic model - make unknown, The original Romulan ship from the classic Star Trek 60s series.

 

The Federation Starfleet first encountered this vessel in 2266, when a single ship of this type crossed the Romulan Neutral Zone and attacked several border outposts, destroying them utterly. The USS Enterprise responded to the alert and engaged in a tense game of cat-and-mouse with the intruder for more than ten hours, before the Bird-of-Prey was destroyed.

 

The Romulan Bird-of-Prey was a type of starship used by the Romulan Star Empire in the 23rd century. They were equipped with disruptor banks, as well as advanced cloaking technology.

Sensors get dirty, it is impossible to change lens and keep them clean...

Mine has to be cleaned two times a year or more.

When you choose smaller apertures, the dirt spots show shamelessly. In one of my last photos, www.flickr.com/photos/henrique_silva/6600173785/, the aperture was f/36 and so every little tiny bit of dirt was showing, I spent a little time in Lightroom cleaning them, but there are still some in the picture... It was urgent to clean the 40D's sensor

 

Again I went trough this delicate process, I use Sensor Scope from Delkin Devices, it works well, it uses a combination of vacuum cleaner and moistened sensor wands to get the job done. Here is a before / after mosaic, it is not completly clean, but in fact there is a compromise between having the sensor damaged or have one or two dust spots...

If you want to know more about the process, I will be happy to answer!

 

Check your sensor for dust!

a - Create a new image in Photoshop or any other application and fill it with white

b - Set your camera to Aperture Priority, ISO100, and aperture to it's minimum f/22 - f/45

c - Set lens focus to Manual, and focus to closest possible

d - Shoot in raw or if in jpeg, turn off special image processing functions

e - Zoom in until the photoshop image fills your camera focusing screen

f - Shoot camera facing the white image on your monitor, and during this exposure, move your camera back and fourth being careful to not to point the lens outside of your white image. You can also zoom in in the image...

g - Process your image, adjust contrast, brightness, clarity, whatever, so that you get a clear view of the dirt spots!

h - Now you can go through the cleaning process - remember that what shows on the bottom of the image will be towards the top of the camera sensor...

i - Repeat the process from a to g and if you are happy with the result, then you are done; otherwise, repeat again... this time I had to make three swab cleanings. It is preferable to clean gently several times than applying to much force.

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Technical Info:

Camera: Canon EOS 40D

Lens: EF-S15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM

Focal Length: 40 mm

Sensitivity: ISO 100

Exposure: 0,3 sec at f/22

Exposure bias: 0 EV

Exposure Program: Aperture priority

Metering Mode: Pattern

Flash: no flash

GPS

Coordinates:

Altitude:

©Henrique Silva, all rights reserved - no reproduction without prior permission

Sony A7R RAW Photos of Tall, Thin Pretty Blond Bikini Swimsuit Model Goddess! Modeling T-shirts, swimsuitsm and Hoodie! Carl Zeiss Sony FE 55mm F1.8 ZA Sonnar T* Lens ! Lightroom 5.3 ! 45surf Surfboard!

  

New instagram! instagram.com/45surf

twitter.com/45surf

 

Blog! 45surf.wordpress.com

 

Follow me on facebook! facebook.com/elliot.mcgucken

 

Beautiful Hero's Odyssey Mythology Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddesses! Pretty, pretty, girls! Modeling 45surf T-Shirts, hoodies, and shirts!

 

Check out my greatest hits compilation, and let me know what you think:

www.elliotmcguckenphotography.com/

 

As the Great Mick Jagger satted, "Pretty, pretty, pretty, pretty, girl

Pretty, pretty

Such a pretty, pretty, pretty girl." -Beast of Burden Sexy, hot, and cute too!

 

Epic Goddess Straight Out of Hero's Odyssey Mythology! Pretty Model! :) Tall, thin, fit and beautiful!

 

Welcome to your epic hero's odyssey! The beautiful 45surf goddess sisters hath called ye to adventure, beckoning ye to read deeply Homer's Iliad and Odyssey, whence ye shall learn of yer own exalted artistic path guided by Hero's Odyssey Mythology. I wouldn't be saying it if it hadn't happened to me.

  

New 500px!

500px.com/herosodysseymythology

 

Pretty Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddess! :)

  

vimeo.com/45surf

dailymotion.com/45surf

 

Nikon D300 Photos of Beautfiul Sexy Hot Brunette!

 

She was a beauty--a gold 45 goddess for sure! A Gold 45 Goddess exalts the archetypal form of Athena--the Greek Goddess of wisdom, warfare, strategy, heroic endeavour, handicrafts and reason. A Gold 45 Goddess guards the beauty of dx4/dt=ic and embodies 45SURF's motto "Virtus, Honoris, et Actio Pro Veritas, Amor, et Bellus, (Strength, Honor, and Action for Truth, Love, and Beauty," and she stands ready to inspire and guide you along your epic, heroic odyssey into art and mythology. It is Athena who descends to call Telemachus to Adventure in the first book of Homer's Odyssey--to man up, find news of his true father Odysseus, and rid his home of the false suitors, and too, it is Athena who descends in the first book of Homer's Iliad, to calm the Rage of Achilles who is about to draw his sword so as to slay his commander who just seized Achilles' prize, thusly robbing Achilles of his Honor--the higher prize Achilles fought for. And now Athena descends once again, assuming the form of a Gold 45 Goddess, to inspire you along your epic odyssey of heroic endeavour.

 

ALL THE BEST on your Epic Hero's Odyssey from Johnny Ranger McCoy!

 

Modeling the new black & gold & "Gold 45 Revolver" Gold'N'Virtue swimsuits with the main equation to Moving Dimensions Theory on the swimsuits: dx4/dt=ic. Yes I have a Ph.D. in physics! :) You can read more about my research and Hero's Odyssey Physics here:

herosodysseyphysics.wordpress.com/ MDT PROOF#2: Einstein (1912 Man. on Rel.) and Minkowski wrote x4=ict. Ergo dx4/dt=ic--the foundational equation of all time and motion which is on all the shirts and swimsuits. Every photon that hits my Nikon D800e's sensor does it by surfing the fourth expanding dimension, which is moving at c relative to the three spatial dimensions, or dx4/dt=ic!

 

With the Johnny Ranger McCoy Celtic Cross on the back of the bikini! All the best on your epic hero's odyssey from JR MCCOY! Carl Zeiss Sony FE 55mm F1.8 ZA Sonnar T* Lens!

My latest acquisition. Very nice compact camera. Large, bright viewfinder.

 

The Agfa Optima sensor electronic was identical to the Agfa Optima 535 Sensor electronic and — like the Agfa Optima sensor Flash - produced in Portugal.

 

Manufactured in 1982.

Lens: Agfa Solitar 40mm / 1:2.8

Shutter: 1/30 sec. to 1/500

Aperture range: 2.8 to 22

Dimensions: 104 × 70 × 56 mm

Weight: 265 g

Batteries: 3 x alkaline / silver oxide 625G

 

Information retrieved from this website (in German), which also features beautiful photos of all the 1970s Agfa Optima line.

 

Another good read (in English) is the Agfa Optima 1535 page on Alfred's Camera Page.

 

Albert Memorial in Hyde Park, London, UK

 

Sometimes I have the impression that older cameras with CCD sensors have richer colors and a better dynamic range. I've taken this picture with a Nikon D60 and it turned out pretty much perfect without post-production. At the end, I've chosen a B&W conversion to increase the depth of the sky.

 

LEE Filters 0.6 GND H + LEE Filters 105mm C-PL

Los 13699 fotogramas restantes se pueden ver acá:

www.vimeo.com/8009734

Y de yapa, un bellísimo collage inspirado en esos fotogramas:

www.flickr.com/photos/anilinamagica/2459653347

These two Olympus DSLRs are some of the most interesting cameras in my collection. They were made in the years when digital SLRs had not yet taken their definitive form, and manufacturers experimented a lot with the look and design of their cameras. The E-300 has a Kodak CCD-sensor, while the later E-330 was already built on a conventional CMOS-sensor (it was Olympus' first CMOS-sensor SLR). While the E-330 is ergonomically and technically more advanced than the E-300, for example, it has a large tilt LCD screen, the OK button to confirm selection is in the center of the joypad, the E-300 still has a more "expensive" look and more pleasant tactile feel, thanks to the metal body parts and overall monolithic construction. But most importantly, the Kodak CCD-sensor gives more beautiful photos, than CMOS sensor, without much trouble with processing. These cameras have 8 megapixel sensors and even today are suitable for high quality shooting, despite the 4/3 format, thanks to the quality of the Olympus lenses. Notice the Porro prism viewfinder system, and the mirror that shifts sideways rather than upward as on traditional DSLRs. These cameras cost next to nothing today, and it allows you to try these fun, vintage technologies almost for free. I highly recommend you try these cameras, especially the E-300.

 

I have had some dust stuck on my sensor since getting my A7III and sadly the rocket blower couldn't remove it. I usually pay to get my sensor cleaned but decided to give cleaning it myself a try and I'm glad I did.

Mixed Media and photographic work from my HUMANBLUR Series

Hankyu Koyoen Station(阪急甲陽園駅)

Nishinomiya City, Hyogo Pref., Japan

CdS exsposure meter

Ultra Sensitive 1º Light-Acceptance Angle

Nikon D800E Photos of Tall Thin Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddess! From Italy! Very pretty brunette with green eyes! Wearing a Red, White, and Blue American flag Gold 45 Revolver Bikini! She had amazing abs! Sculpted, toned, defined and ripped!

 

Here're some videos of the epic goddess from Italy:

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=txvupr5xOZ4

www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGSVw9jbAR0

www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgEUYUQm9Dw

www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2YUfi-Dbd0

 

A gorgeous goddess for all my flickr fans! She's from Germany. :) Many, many more to come! We shot all afternoon under a cloudy hazy sky which diffused the rays of the Sun God Helios. :)

 

Nikon D800 Photos of Brunette Swimsuit Bikini Goddess with Pretty Green Eyes shot with the new Nikon D800 and Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens!

 

Videos coming soon!

 

Shot in both RAW & JPEG, but all these photos are RAWs finished in Lightroom 4 ! :)

 

All the Gold'N'Virtue swimsuits with the main equation to Moving Dimensions Theory on the swimsuits: dx4/dt=ic. Yes I have a Ph.D. in physics! :) You can read more about my research and Hero's Journey Physics here:

herosjourneyphysics.wordpress.com/ MDT PROOF#2: Einstein (1912 Man. on Rel.) and Minkowski wrote x4=ict. Ergo dx4/dt=ic--the foundational equation of all time and motion which is on all the shirts and swimsuits. Every photon that hits my Nikon D800e's sensor does it by surfing the fourth expanding dimension, which is moving at c relative to the three spatial dimensions, or dx4/dt=ic!

 

Modeling the Gold 45 Revolver(TM) Gold'N'Virtue(TM) Bikini Red, White, an Blue American flag bikini!

 

May the HJM Goddesses guide, inspire, and exalt ye along yer heroic artistic journey! Best wishes from Johnny Ranger McCoy!

 

After great demand and lots of encouragement from friend photographers, the result of this very work intensive project is finally available. Please check your respective amazon online store.

 

The paperback version is recommended over the kindle version

 

Content:

This book is unique, in that it focuses on greatly improving photography skills, both for amateurs and professionals, by understanding the image sensor & camera operation and the impact of parameters changes on image quality.

Are you one of those photographers who continuously fights excessive image noise when shooting birds-in-flight, a photographer who would like to understand why certain camera and lens settings do a great job and others don’t, or, are you a photographer who fails in creating top quality images, independent of the circumstances? Then stop looking, because you have found your comprehensively written expert guide, created by image sensor specialist George F. Vittman, PhD, who has worked with world-renowned specialists in the field since the mid-1980ies, and who is also an outstanding and award-winning photographer.

Without going into too much technical detail, this book introduces the basic image sensor operation, and it devotes a large fraction to the study of visible image noise. What is noise caused by, what is its dependence on the 3 camera exposure parameters, shutter time, lens aperture and ISO-value, how does post-processing affect noise, and most importantly, how can the image noise be minimized under different circumstances. Besides image noise, this book also reveals little known secrets regarding auto-focus, camera operation and optics, and it gives image sensor based recommendations for a camera choice in the different fields of photography.

 

Hatte ich folgendes nicht schon an anderer Stelle geschrieben?

 

1. Beim Filmtransport verschwindet der belichtete Film hinter einer Klappe, so ist er bei versehentlichem Öffnen geschützt.

 

2. Man spult den Film mit dem Schnellschalthebel zurück, nachdem man vorher einen Umschaltknopf betätigt hat!

 

3. Die Auslösung über den roten Sensor-Punkt ist wirklich sehr sanft und erschütterungsfrei.

 

Richtig! Diese drei exklusiven Merkmale der Selectronic Sensor findet man später wieder in den genial designten Optima-sensor-electronic-Modellen.

 

Der äußerliche Unterschied fällt natürlich sofort ins Auge. Die Selectronic sensor hatte die recht konventionelle, für die damalige Zeit aber moderne sachliche Form der Optima 500 fortgesetzt. Ein großer Erfolg war die die Selectronic nicht, aber das Innenleben hatte sich so bewährt, dass es mit kleinen Abwandlungen für die Optima Sensor electronic übernommen wurde.

 

Während aber die neuen Optimas einen voll programmierten Paratronic-Verschluss besaßen (man hatte keinen Einfluss auf Belichtungszeit und Blende), war die Selectronic sensor ein Zeitautomat: Die Blende wird vorgewählt, die Zeit dazu wird von der Kamera errechnet und eingestellt. Beide Werte sieht man im Sucher. Dieses System gefällt mir viel besser.

 

Es gab noch die Selectronic "S", die mit dem Vierlinser Solinar statt mit dem Dreilinser Apotar ausgerüstet war und außerdem einen Messsucher besaß.

 

Die Selectronic kostete 1971 349,- DM, die Selectronic S 449,- DM.

Todo lo que sube tiene que bajar (Menos la gasolina, el colesterol y la glucosa. :)

"Magic Wire" is so called because of detecting proximity to antenna.

 

THE MAGIC WIRE

 

As shown in the diagram, the input tube is a type 6R7 duo-diode triode. The triode section forms the oscillator, in conjunction with the coil L1 which is center-tapped to the cathode. When the triode section is oscillating, the r.f. voltage developed from cathode to ground is impressed on the diode section, causing current to flow through R2 and making the diode plates negative with respect to ground. The control grid of the 25L6 power tube is connected to the diode plates of the 6R7 and consequently a negative bias is placed on the grid which reduces its plate current to a very low value. As soon as the triode ceases to oscillate, there is no longer any r.f. voltage applied to the diodes, the voltage drops and the 25L6 draws high plate current, causing the relay to operate.

 

It will be noted that no rectifier tube or filler circuit is required in this design, yet the instrument functions on either a.c. or d.c. On a.c., the 6R7 oscillations and the 25L6 draws plate current only on the positive half-cycles. This principle effects a considerable saving in construction cost and in the size of the instrument.

 

After the parts required have been obtained, the first step in building the unit is to make the chassis, which consists simply of a piece of 16-gauge aluminum or steel bent and drilled in accordance with the plan shown. The front panel, which is included with the standard 6 by 6 cabinet, is drilled and a hole and grommet are placed in the rear panel. The oscillator coil is made by winding 100 turns of No.28 d.c.c. wire on a one-inch bakelite tube 3-1/4 inches long. A tap is brought out at the center of the winding. When the winding has been completed, the entire coil is dipped in a hot half-and-half mixture of beeswax and paraffin to keep the winding in place and exclude moisture. The sensitivity of the outfit is largely dependent upon the efficiency of the coil, so it should be carefully made. C1 is mounted on a small piece of 1/8-inch bakelite, because it must be insulated from the panel.

 

Wire the chassis first, starting with the heater circuits. Do not connect in the power cord until all wiring has been completed. The shield of the 25L6 is connected to its cathode, the shield of the 6E7 to the heater terminal which goes directly to the line. When all the main wiring has been completed, bring the power cord through the rear panel hole, and solder the three terminals to the terminal strip. The antenna wire is brought in through a rubber-grommeted hole in the top of the cabinet and connected to the stator or plate terminal of C1. A knot in the wire will relieve any strain on this connection. Stranded wire is preferred for the antenna.

 

The capacitances of C1 and C2 are largely dependent upon the length of antenna wire desired. If only 4 or 5 feet are required, C2 may be omitted. On the other hand, if the wire exceeds 15 feet, C2 will have to be larger than the value given. If the capacitance of C1 were made large (say 150 mmf. or more), C2 could of course be omitted but then the adjustment would become too critical.

 

The relay employed is a 3,000-ohm plug-in type of standard manufacture. It is a double-pole model and will handle a non-inductive load of 100 watts. It is somewhat more sensitive than is required and any other good relay of 1,000 ohms or more resistance should be suitable. The capacitor, C4, is shunted across the relay coil to prevent chattering. It may be advisable, in some cases, to put a 0.1 mf. paper capacitor across the relay contacts to stop sparking on heavy loads. It is better practice, however, to use a separate power relay when operating any but light loads.

 

In operation, the antenna wire is strung out well away from grounded metal objects and a 110-volt lamp is plugged into the outlet on the panel. When the tubes have heated, the lamp should light when the antenna wire is touched. If it lights without touching the wire, C2 should be screwed down until the lamp goes out. These adjustments should be made with C1 about one-half mashed. The panel may then screwed in on the cabinet and final adjustment made. This is done by gradually adjusting the vernier knob of the dial until the light remains lit when adjusting but goes out when the hand is removed from the dial. This may be carried to a point where the light will flash as soon as one approaches within 3 feet of the wire or instrument. It is better not to aim for such sensitivity, though, since it will vary somewhat with line voltage. A good, practical and stable point is about six to fifteen minutes or so for the instrument to acquire a stable point of operation owing to its sensitivity.

 

PARTS REQUIRED

C1 - Midget variable capacitor, 60 mmf. (see text)

C2 - Trimmer capacitor, 35 mmf. or more (see text)

C3 - Tubular paper capacitor, 0.05 mf. or more, 200 v.

C4 - Electrolytic capacitor, 10 mf., 100 V.

R1 - Carbon resistor, 5 meg, 1 watt

R2 - Carbon resistor, 1 meg., 1 watt

R4 - Wire-wound resistor, 5,000 ohms, 10 watts

R5 - Wire-wound resistor, 10,000 ohms, 10 watts

1 -- Steel cabinet 6x6x6 inches, front & back panels removable

1 -- Piece 16-gauge aluminum, for chassis 5-1/2 x 7-3/4 inches

1 -- Piece bakelite tubing, 1 inch diameter., 3-1/2 inches long

1 -- Piece bakelite, 1'1/2 x 1-1/2, 1/8 inch thick for C1

2 -- Octal wafer sockets, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes

1 -- 5-prong wafer socket, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes

1 -- Relay, Utah type RAC-110, 3,000 ohm

1 -- 6R7 metal tube

1 -- 25L6 metal tube

1 -- Kurz-Kasch vernier dial, small

1 -- Resistor line cord, 280 ohms (R3)

1 -- Single outlet receptacle

Miscellaneous screws, nuts, mounting bracket, and grommets.

 

- James P Hughes

 

Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).

German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.

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The Meter Unit removed and lying upside-down.

 

There is a Green Mask (see green arrow) in a Slide and a Red Mask (see red arrow) moving with the Meter Needle.

 

These are used for the OK Exposure and Underexposure signals in the Viewfinder.

 

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WARNING :

This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !

balsa wood + paint chips + mod podge

AGFA sensor 505-D

  

kyodo

Sony A7R RAW Photos of Tall, Thin Pretty Blond Bikini Swimsuit Model Goddess! Modeling T-shirts, swimsuitsm and Hoodie! Carl Zeiss Sony FE 55mm F1.8 ZA Sonnar T* Lens ! Lightroom 5.3 ! 45surf Surfboard!

  

New instagram! instagram.com/45surf

twitter.com/45surf

 

Blog! 45surf.wordpress.com

 

Follow me on facebook! facebook.com/elliot.mcgucken

 

Beautiful Hero's Odyssey Mythology Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddesses! Pretty, pretty, girls! Modeling 45surf T-Shirts, hoodies, and shirts!

 

Check out my greatest hits compilation, and let me know what you think:

www.elliotmcguckenphotography.com/

 

As the Great Mick Jagger satted, "Pretty, pretty, pretty, pretty, girl

Pretty, pretty

Such a pretty, pretty, pretty girl." -Beast of Burden Sexy, hot, and cute too!

 

Epic Goddess Straight Out of Hero's Odyssey Mythology! Pretty Model! :) Tall, thin, fit and beautiful!

 

Welcome to your epic hero's odyssey! The beautiful 45surf goddess sisters hath called ye to adventure, beckoning ye to read deeply Homer's Iliad and Odyssey, whence ye shall learn of yer own exalted artistic path guided by Hero's Odyssey Mythology. I wouldn't be saying it if it hadn't happened to me.

  

New 500px!

500px.com/herosodysseymythology

 

Pretty Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddess! :)

  

vimeo.com/45surf

dailymotion.com/45surf

 

Nikon D300 Photos of Beautfiul Sexy Hot Brunette!

 

She was a beauty--a gold 45 goddess for sure! A Gold 45 Goddess exalts the archetypal form of Athena--the Greek Goddess of wisdom, warfare, strategy, heroic endeavour, handicrafts and reason. A Gold 45 Goddess guards the beauty of dx4/dt=ic and embodies 45SURF's motto "Virtus, Honoris, et Actio Pro Veritas, Amor, et Bellus, (Strength, Honor, and Action for Truth, Love, and Beauty," and she stands ready to inspire and guide you along your epic, heroic odyssey into art and mythology. It is Athena who descends to call Telemachus to Adventure in the first book of Homer's Odyssey--to man up, find news of his true father Odysseus, and rid his home of the false suitors, and too, it is Athena who descends in the first book of Homer's Iliad, to calm the Rage of Achilles who is about to draw his sword so as to slay his commander who just seized Achilles' prize, thusly robbing Achilles of his Honor--the higher prize Achilles fought for. And now Athena descends once again, assuming the form of a Gold 45 Goddess, to inspire you along your epic odyssey of heroic endeavour.

 

ALL THE BEST on your Epic Hero's Odyssey from Johnny Ranger McCoy!

 

Modeling the new black & gold & "Gold 45 Revolver" Gold'N'Virtue swimsuits with the main equation to Moving Dimensions Theory on the swimsuits: dx4/dt=ic. Yes I have a Ph.D. in physics! :) You can read more about my research and Hero's Odyssey Physics here:

herosodysseyphysics.wordpress.com/ MDT PROOF#2: Einstein (1912 Man. on Rel.) and Minkowski wrote x4=ict. Ergo dx4/dt=ic--the foundational equation of all time and motion which is on all the shirts and swimsuits. Every photon that hits my Nikon D800e's sensor does it by surfing the fourth expanding dimension, which is moving at c relative to the three spatial dimensions, or dx4/dt=ic!

 

With the Johnny Ranger McCoy Celtic Cross on the back of the bikini! All the best on your epic hero's odyssey from JR MCCOY! Carl Zeiss Sony FE 55mm F1.8 ZA Sonnar T* Lens!

Olympus E-500 ( KODAK CCD sensor ) + Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50mm f/2.0 Macro

  

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

work out of my industrial life

Realizada con cámara Samsung EX1 sensor CCD

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