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The sensor is held in with a black plastic circlip. I'd read somewhere to use a cable tie to pull it out and to avoid losing it in the depths of the engine. In the end mine was quite solid and took quite an attack with a screw driver to get it out and as i'd bought a new one I probably wouldn't have minded if I'd dropped it.
Next I took the electrical connector off which had the usual squeezy bit at the top that clicks over to hold the connector in.
Uh oh - time to get the blower out, I think. These dust spots aren't causing too much of a problem yet,you can't really see them on normal photos, but it's probably time to give it a bit of a clean.
How to see how dirty your camera's sensor is:
1. Take a photo of a clear sky or other blank subject at f22.
2. Open the picture up Photoshop and run Auto-levels
Et voila, you can see just how dirty your sensor has got.
After a race car left the track at Eastern Creek motor racing circuit, NSW, Australia.
20 May 2006
Canon 350D (Rebel XT) with Canon 70-300 IS lens @ 300mm (~480mm)
ISO 800 1/500 @ F8 available light
IMG_3604
Ha, wow i'm up WAYYYYYY to late at night, misspelled "a while" well there it is. Not important enough to fix. LOL
Had my curtain repaired by Nikon, and they scratched the Sensor! Had it back for 3 months, just wrote it off as welded dust, but got frustrated and looked at it with a loupe and it is a SCRATCH! Having no way of proving this, I am probably going to have to pay Nikon to fix thier mistake.
*Note, I use a rocketblower for most of my dust issues, and Sensor Swabs, with Eclipse for the tough stuff. Spare me messages saying I did this, no one swipes the swab UP on the sensor.*
The green thing is a proximity sensor that you'll see on most any thrill ride and in many other applications. A proximity sensor can detect a metal target in their sensing field (usually an inch away or so) using induction. They help the controller know where trains are located, what position the loading gates are in, if the brakes are open or closed, and other operational aspects of a ride.
On the OSU campus, Ben McCamish, Eduardo Cotilla-Sanchez, and Ziwei Ke work with a new sensor technology designed to gain a better understanding of the local electric grid. (Photo courtesy of Oregon State University)
I am in the process of building a barometric data logger based on the Arduino coupled with Adafruit's logger shield. I live in between the first two Watchung mountains in north/central NJ, so I thought a drive around town would give me some nice pressure differentials to record.
y-axis is relative changes to the sensor output as they diverge from an initial reading. x-axis is seconds.
this data was collected using an oversampling method to eliminate noise. what happens when you try to get 10-bits of good data but you don't put the MCU to sleep before reading? you get 8-bits of good data (and 2 LSBs of crap). see the previous image in this stream.
there is higher pressure at lower altitudes, so troughs on the plotted data (lower pressure) indicate mountains, while peaks indicate valleys or low areas. kind of backwards but that's the way it is.
no corroboration between sensor outputs and actual pressure values (yet). just diggin' those delta-v's, man.
Need dirtying up as these are some of the first Tau I painted and the original paint scheme is just too shiny...
Just another shot of the sensor to let you see were it is. After I got the circlip off it took quite a bit of persuasion and WD40 to get the old one out of its holder. In the end I used a screw driver to prise it out.
After that it was fit the new one, top up the anti freeze and then refit everything.
I then used VCDS to reset the temp error codes
The guy at this table seemed annoyed at my being the "4th person" to ask if these were bend sensors. Can you blame me? Anyway, these were very cool. I could press the tip, of either of the left 2 sensors there (which were made of a very thin layer of something I didn't ask about) and watch the red and blue graph lines raise and lower on the monitor to the left of this image. I pressed smoothly and alternately harder and softer with both fingers and made the graphs dance in offset sine waves. It had a very fine resolution (seemingly far greater than 8-bit), no shivering or jumping, and according to Mr. Angsty, were quite durable, having been tested into the millions of presses, with only a very slight decrease in effectiveness, which is easily recalibrated for. They also had a chair loaded up with these things, through which were we treated to a rainbow display of one guy's buttocks pressures, akin to those seen in this buttocks pressures mapping, from the P.E.R.F.E.C.T. workstation. Oddly, the medical field is their biggest market, where they're used, for example, to test for things like blockages in implants.
Halo SMART Sensor detects signs of cigarette smoking or vaping. These could be in areas where CCTV cameras are prohibited and/or not suitable, but where you want them to make sure individuals are protected and illegal or unwanted behavior is recognized. With Halo SMART Sensor, you will have an auxiliary sensor that could help deliver alerts when students are experiencing bullying. Security Systems Texas could also detect when somebody becomes engaged in a fight. The Halo SMART Sensor can also help identify a wide variety of particles in the air so that it can help to prevent the spread of contagious diseases.
The MCA Cat III Workboat, owned by Aspect Land & Hydrographic Surveys Ltd, of Ayrshire.
The 'Marine Sensor' is road towable, and with a small forward cabin, can deploy from a slipway or boat hoist / crane and able to operate a wide variety of sensors.
Her hulls and catamaran configuration lend a fast transit speed and give good directional stability resulting in high quality survey data.
MCA Cat III Workboat
Length 6.9m
Beam 2.5m
Draught 0.3m
When I picked up my 20D I thought it's care would be similar to that of my Panasonic FZ20. Keep it in a case... don't drop it, etc. Hmph.
Then in the last couple weeks I noticed some specks on my shots, and at first it wasn't a big deal, but as I've been looking for deeper depth of field these specks showed up more often. What was it? I started reading numerous posts on flickr about DUST being on an SLR's sensor. How to avoid it, what precautions to take - and then the discussion of CLEANING IT.
I took the camera in to have it's sensor cleaned. Hey - I don't want to scratch the thing that picks up light. $35, picked it up the next day and took some shots. Brought it right back and asked them to do it again. Took three times more in their shop before I left happier. Took some more shots and I was back to reading about the infamous and near fatal task of CLEANING YOUR OWN SENSOR.
If you want an opinion on anything you will find it with photography. If you want even more energetic 'chit chat' do a search on SENSOR DUST.
I thought about it and have read quite a bit on it - the sensor on the 20D's sensor has a protective filter on it. It's made of glass to according to numerous reads. I even found a page discussing how to replace this filter with another for infrared photography. This delicate little sensor, with a hardness of glass became less and less of a holy grail.
PLUS, I never read any post from anyone that ACTUALLY SCRATCHED their sensor - just that it would cost an arm & leg to repair/replace.
I went with the Visible Dust product based on some discussions and a quick read on Luminous Landscapes.
I used a pure white image in photoshop as my subject to find the dust. Set the aperature to f/22 on my 50mm and snapped away.
First attempt at cleaning: No change.
Second attempt: Some dust gone, some dust either moved or added.
Third attempt: Dust gone to my satisfaction, at least at 10PM at night. I found that holding the brush at less of an angle and closer to 90 degrees worked better.
So, just some food for thought from an amateur photography hobbiest. If you're not comfortable in doing it then don't, but... So far so good here.
The screen shows the light source alignment mode. After the dual light source is attached to the camera, the shutter is opened using the "B" setting and the user verifies visually that the sensors are centered in the film window.
Then the light source is moved until the bar graphs show equal amounts of light. When these levels are satisfactory, tests can be started.