View allAll Photos Tagged Rodinal
68 year old rodinal--used 1/4ml for a 250ml tank and let it stand process for 36 hours. Tasma Mikrat 300 film expired in 1982
Agfa CNS (Color)
Roll Film 120
Rodinal 1:100, 2 hours, stand development
Jehovah's Witnesses congress 1969 in Nuremberg
Nikon F3HP + Voigtlander Ultron 40mm + Kentmere 100
Rodinal 1:50 15min 20C
Agitation: 10sec every 1min
Munich, pedestrian area, June 2006 during the football championship
Yashica T5
Tri-X in Rodinal 1+50, 400 ASA
Agfa CNS (Color)
Roll Film 120
Rodinal 1:100, 2 hours, stand development
Jehovah's Witnesses congress 1969 in Nuremberg
Lake Erie Walleye.
Century Graphic 2 1/4 x 3 1/4.
Efke 50 B&W film in Rodinal 1-50 stand development 50 minutes.
Fred- I framed this up for you to show to all the non-believers...
pentax p30t kodak tmax100 shot @400, developed in stand with xtol 1+4 + rodinal 1+300.
I never developed in stand method with Xtol because i think it's not so powerful, so to be sure i added 3ml of rodinal. the tank was in bath of slightly warmer water than the usual 20°C
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Fed 2, Fed 50mm f/3.5 collapsible, Fomapan 100 at box speed in Rodinal 1+49 nine minutes at 20C
Be'er Sheva, working class neighborhood
Yashica Electro 35
Foma 400
Rodinal 1:100 for 1 hour
Slowly losing faith in Rodinal, I'm not sure I like the course grain for scanning. I've got an enlarger now, so maybe you'll see a print from this batch.
Darkroom recently flooded so pardon the dust since I had to develop somewhere else. Plus the reload cart I used fucking SUCKS. Need to get me some snap caps or something.
Right your Wrongs
I have been using a homebrew Rodinal made by a local provider. My results where somehow far away from what i have learned about it, but that didn´t kept me from trying it arround and tweaking the use of it with different dilution or film combinations.
So I bounced into the stand development aproach, because the high dilution could give me a better result instead of the higher precision (time/temp) needed with more concentrated dilutions.
The results where far worse than the official literature.
So I went on with adjusting the dilution, I did several tries and found that my Rodinal (homebrew) is somehow thinner than the original.
That said and thought I putted on the developing tank a doubled dilution and did the stand developing as if it was 1+100 for 1 hour.
I did 1+50 for 1 hour.
The negatives finnally came with the correct density and the right contrast.
It has been a pleasure scanning them.
I learned in the dark room that doubling or halfing gets you to the hot spot, as a common rule in film photography this came out true for me.
I will comment this to my friend that makes this Local Rodinal versión, so he can adjust his chemics.
But i wanted to share the fact that some things when you put your heart into it can come right.
Leica 111f, 90mm apo lanthar mounted on a visoflex 1, apx100 at 200asa in rodinal 1-50 21mins. sepia toned in photoscape.
Rollei Pan25
Rodinal 1+50
11:00 Min@20°C
Rolleiflex
Please don't use this picture on websites, blogs or other media without my permission
Onda © 2010
Graflex Graphic View I ; 4x5" EFKE PL 100;
Ernemann Ernon 13.5 cm F6.8;
t 1/10; f 11;Rodinal 1:50; 20 C;
13 min
Right your Wrongs
I have been using a homebrew Rodinal made by a local provider. My results where somehow far away from what i have learned about it, but that didn´t kept me from trying it arround and tweaking the use of it with different dilution or film combinations.
So I bounced into the stand development aproach, because the high dilution could give me a better result instead of the higher precision (time/temp) needed with more concentrated dilutions.
The results where far worse than the official literature.
So I went on with adjusting the dilution, I did several tries and found that my Rodinal (homebrew) is somehow thinner than the original.
That said and thought I putted on the developing tank a doubled dilution and did the stand developing as if it was 1+100 for 1 hour.
I did 1+50 for 1 hour.
The negatives finnally came with the correct density and the right contrast.
It has been a pleasure scanning them.
I learned in the dark room that doubling or halfing gets you to the hot spot, as a common rule in film photography this came out true for me.
I will comment this to my friend that makes this Local Rodinal versión, so he can adjust his chemics.
But i wanted to share the fact that some things when you put your heart into it can come right.
Minolta XE1, Minolta 35mm MD Rokkor
Rollei Retro 100, 1hour in Rodinal 1+100, stand development
Negative captured with a DSLR and developed in Lightroom 3.4
Just got back from San Francisco last night, where I'd had some Rodinal shipped to my sister's. Getting it to her place was fairly straightforward, but I really didn't know how to get it home, since it's not supposed to be shipped by air.
Eventually I decided to just risk putting it in my checked baggage. When I got home, it had been opened by the TSA, but apparently they were ok with it, so they sealed it back up and closed my suitcase.
This stuff is totally unavailable in Japan, but I don't think I would enjoy photography without it. For black and white film, there's nothing that I like as much. Using very weak dilutions and long development times, I am able to get shadow detail that would otherwise be impossible.
The little box is the last bottle of what I had before I got this batch.
It's available in the us at Freestyle Photo: