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I got sick of waiting so I used tweezers to scrape out most of the PVA inside. :) This definitely needs agitation to speed up the dissolving. Also, it seems the PVA was settling inside. Flipping it over made it start to fall out of the holes as it dissolves.
I rinsed it off and put it in a fresh bottle of hot tap water.
This is how the weight was supposed to go, but it torques it the wrong way.
Source file: www.thingiverse.com/thing:12557
MakerBot printed dual extruder 2 color data matrix bar code encodes it's own thingiverse id number www.thingiverse.com/thing:12104
Although printed on an Ultimaker, at a groundbreaking layer height at the time, 45 microns has since been surpassed by our later profile development. The current Ultimaker for Netfabb includes "Ulta Quality" profile with a 0.04 mm (40 micron) perimeter layer height. The latest in development profile gives a 20 micron outer wall.
Laser line scanner designed in Alibre pe. My first project, it was printed using the standard Ultimaker firmware with my old quality setting: PLA, 0.15 mm layer (with half height 0.075 mm outer). My quality prints are now at 0.09 mm layer heights with half height outer surface layers of 0.045 mm. See the Octopus print for an example.
This is what happens if you try to use the MB 5.5 firmware and print something taller than 150mm. Even with your .xml file adjusted, the printer won't move more than 150mm. I had to move to the Sailfish firmware.
Not bad, it was printed at 0.27 layer height... a smaller layer height I'd imagine would be totally smooth.
Teeth on the gears are now clearly visible. Since it sank to the bottom after 1 hour, I put it on top of a shot glass to raise it up so it doesn't soak in the pool of dissolved PVA at the bottom.
This is a concept extruder/plastruder for use with small diameter nozzles. I did not intend for it to look like something out of Robots or Wall-E. Form really did follow function...cute though :)
More detailed explanation is available in the MakerBot Operators Google Group
Laser line generator holder designed to fit on the handle of an Argos mechanical kitchen timer (got that idea from Thingiverse). This design also allows you to rotate the laser via the thumbwheel so the laser line can be aligned after focussing. Designed in Alibre pe. It forms part of a laser line 3D scanner. Part of my first project, it was printed on my Ultimaker using my old quality setting: PLA, 0.15 layer (with half height 0.075 outer). My quality prints are now at 0.09 mm layer heights with half height outer surface layers of 0.045 mm. See the Octopus print for an example.m
Not bad, it was printed at 0.27 layer height... a smaller layer height I'd imagine would be totally smooth.
The head is not as smooth... acetone could use some circulation for a more even coat. Maybe a tiny fan in a bigger jar...
Not bad, it was printed at 0.27 layer height... a smaller layer height I'd imagine would be totally smooth.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:39822
Seems like this thermal flashlight thing is taking off as just when I've posted my gadget this thermal flashlight appeared on the Make Magazine Blog.
This guy, though found a nice LED flashlight pre-made which he crammed the arduino into. And while that is a nice package (especially the mirrored LED reflectors) it has no user interface.
While I was playing with the original flashlight I realized that the sensor it self is pretty capable, but that just showing colors didn't quite reveal that. The sensor has a 45 degree field of view, where it averages the temperature. So while it is very precise at measuring a temperature, you'd never know it by waving the flashlight around willy nilly, because 45 degrees might just as well be a wide-angle lens.
This makes light-painting pretty challenging because you sorta need to keep the flashlight very close to the surfaces you're painting or else you'll get some averaged color, not a temperature appropriate one.
And then there was the idea that the Arduino itself is pretty damned flexible/smart and that it is as much a platform as it is a flashlight. So this design has the LCD, a buzzer, and some buttons so that it can be more than just a light.
As it is currently programmed, I gave it an alarm and a programmable threshold. It automatically determines if you want the alarm to go off hotter or colder than the setting. However, the 45 degree FOV makes this functionality nearly useless for telling me when my tea is drinkable because you practically have to dip the sensor in the tea (or at least get it covered with condensation) to get an accurate reading.
I will investigate other versions of this part, there do seems to be several variants. Hopefully one has a better FOV.
I set it all up for 3.3V because I could and because I figured 4AA batteries would keep it going for a while. However, I did use Vbatt for the LEDs and the backlight of the LCD. I used the bare ATMega328p with its internal 8MHz clock again because I could, but also because that's valid for 3.3V operations.
I could probably get more battery life out by not using the lossy regulator, but that started to seem expensive.
I printed this hand on my makerbot with a layer height of 0.25mm. Printed on a lexan platform instead of the standard acrylic. I think it turned out really nicely except for all the places where the ABS bruised from cutting off the strings. At this resolution, every little detail shows up. You can even see the knuckles on the back of the fingers pretty clearly. You can see how bad my Z wobble is here. I really need to get new rods...
And since this is made with a 0.25mm layer height and it is about 120mm tall, it has about 480 layers in it.
Oh and it looks better in person.