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Inserting the key and turning this ignition switch on is where all the fun begins on my bike!

After driving my '66 Mustang to work for a few days, I pulled into the driveway and saw this photo just hanging right in front of me. The 'Keys to the Mustang' hanging from the ignition switch...

Technical Information:

Camera - Nikon D5200

Lens – Nikkor 18-300mm Zoom

ISO – 500

Aperture – f/5.6

Exposure – 1/13 second

Focal Length – 68mm

The original RAW file was processed with Adobe Camera Raw and final adjustments were made with Photoshop CS5.

"For I know the plans I have for you,” declares the LORD, “plans to prosper you and not to harm you, plans to give you hope and a future." ~Jeremiah 29:11

Cosina 55mm @ f/1.2

Gone are the days when you turn a key in the ignition switch to start the engine!

My truck's at the dealership for a catalytic converter replacement. The parts will not be arriving until Monday. So we get to drive Land Rover's latest LR2 HSE for the weekend! Sweeeeeeet!

Have a great Sunday, friends! And please go moderately on the candy and chocolates from last night!

After removing the shear bolt in the last step, I unlocked the steering column with the key, and pulled out the ignition switch housing. I then removed the ignition switch.

The shape of the new switch, on the right, differs a bit from the old switch, on left.

Again, note how I wrapped the arms around the middle section of the splined adapter for grip.

This is what the steering column looks like with the switches removed.

And then used a screw extractor (a reverse drill bit) to remove the shear bolt.

I then removed the steering wheel spring, and prepared the shear bolt for removal.

A closer look of the three-arm puller in situ.

With a three-arm puller, I removed the splined adapter.

To remove the shear bolt, I first drilled a hole in its center to make space for a reverse drill bit.

With the front wheels pointing straight ahead and the steering wheel straight, I proceed to remove the airbag.

Behind the steering wheel, on the right and left sides, are the two hex bolts that attach the airbag unit to the steering wheel. Loosen these until you feel them free up from the airbag. VERY CAREFULLY, pull back on the airbag to reveal the airbag connector.

This splined adapter must be removed using either a two- or three-arm puller.

The signals switch (on the left) comes off before the wipers switch (on the right).

I removed the three torx screws from the steering wheel. Here's the top right torx screw.

This shear bolt wasn't screwed in tight at all, which was very surprising.

This shear bolt (a shear bolt is a bolt whose head has been severed after a certain amount of torque has been applied), points down and is located on the left side of the ignition switch housing. Before beginning this process, I ordered new shear bolts from Volkswagen, who has since replaced these bolts with hex nuts.

I used a dial caliper to measure the distance between the end of the splined adapter and the start of the ignition switch housing. I would need this measurement (of 14.03 mm) during the reassembly process.

And here's the bottom torx screw.

Here's the top left torx screw.

With the signal switch removed, I then took out the wipers switch (on the right).

The horn connection separated.

The airbag and its connector.

You MUST remove the negative battery terminal before servicing the ignition switch and/or the airbag system. I remove the terminal and wrap it in a plastic bag, bound by a rubber band, to ensure that it doesn't accidentally touch the negative battery post.

I then point the front wheels straight ahead with the steering wheel.

I screwed in the nut until I could measure 14.03 mm in distance from the splined adapter to the ignition lock housing. I took this measurement before removing the adapter so I could replace the adapter exactly where it was.

Note the hex bolt that replaced the original shear bolt.

From this point on, the re-installation is the removal process in reverse, except for the last step. BEFORE RE-ATTACHING THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL, YOU MUST first place the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position; i.e., to the position where the battery provides power to all the interior electronics. If you re-attach the negative battery terminal with the ignition off, you could damage the airbag system.

I replaced the switch, housing, spring, and splined adapter.

To remove the column switches, I unscrewed the three slotted head screws. Here's the top right screw.

I made alignment marks on the spline and steering wheel.

I removed this connection, which is for the horn.

I pry very gingerly on the yellow connector with a screwdriver.

When handling the airbag unit, you MUST place it on its back, with the padding facing up. I wrapped my unit in a thick towel, then stored it in my trunk while I worked on the ignition switch.

And here's the bottom middle screw.

Here's the top left screw.

I removed the center steering wheel nut.

I removed the airbag connector from the lower left side of the steering wheel.

To re-situate the splined adapter, I screwed in the center nut of the steering wheel.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, March 31, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, March 31, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, March 31, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, July 21, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, July 21, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, July 21, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, July 21, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, July 21, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Saturday, July 20, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Saturday, July 20, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

The separate contact block ZB2-BE101

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Sunday, July 21, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.

I am recommissioning the Suzuki TS50 that I have owned from new in 1976, and that I imported to the UK from South Africa in 2009. On the afternoon of Saturday, July 20, 2013 I continued work on the headlight nacelle and instrument cluster.