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Paper is tough, but be nice to it when you are removing it from the 'felts'.

I don't know if that is a new method, please tell me!

Once your screen is in the pulp, shake it back and forth just a little, evening and settling the pulp along the screen. Continue rocking/shaking the screen as you pull it up out of the vat. If you screw up, just flip the screen over and tap it against the water in the vat, the pulp will fall off--it prefers the water, slippery stuff.

A sample page from the COMMERCIAL PHOTO SERIES book "Lighting of Pro" (translation)

 

Related sample pix here and here

Well, there's a piece of paper. Yay!

Ideally, your bits of torn paper should be around 1x1 inch square. I'm using a pretty burly blender, so mine are a little bigger.

Start tearing up your paper. You could cut it if you want to, or have bad hands, but tearing is quicker overall.

Now you can remove your damp paper, and let it dry in a well-ventilated place, or you can keep it on the felt. Comparisons of drying techniques are here. REMEMBER: always pull from the corners and gently. Hang your 'felts' out to dry, recycle the newspaper.

Stand on it, centring yourself on the post. Hang out for a while, a few minutes is enough.

Rinse your screen, dry paper will be a nightmare to remove.

Brown paper bags don't blend up that well, so give it more blending if you don't like the chunks (which I do).

This is how fine I blend my pulp. How you blend yours is up to personal taste. I like a few chunks. A sturdy blender and some patience will get your finer pulp and therefore finer-grained paper, but if you wanted perfect paper, you would buy it instead of making it.

This is how the pulp looks with some of that blue flyer thrown in. Remember that your dried paper will be one to three shades lighter than your pulp.

Whoops! Here I am trying to show you the way to do things and I go and overfill the blender!

Time for the poor man's press. On some floor you can clean easy or don't care about, lay down your post and put your board on top.

Using a screen when draining will help you reclaim any leftover pulp, which can be squeezed out and left to dry. When you make paper later, this pulp can be broken up and re-blended.

. . . then the pulp will follow with some suggestive plopping.

The water will pour off first. . .

Paper pulp will do a number on your pipes, so use your screen or a colander in the sink when you drain your vat.

When you're done making sheets, top off your pile with another 'felt' and some more newspaper. The result is called a "post".

After three to five sheets, you'll find that your paper is getting thin and maybe being a brat about releasing from the screen. Time to add more pulp. This batch is white with some brown paper bag thrown in.

Cover your new paper with another 'felt', then some more newspaper, and you're ready to go again.

Soak up more water with your sponge through the back of the screen. Move around, paying attention to the edges.

. . . flip it over. The water in the screen should hold the paper to your screen enough for you to do this.

This is "couching". Line up your screen on your 'felts' and. . .

With your sheet formed, tilt your screen to drain the excess water out. When its only dripping intermittently, you can couch it.

This is what you're going for. The paper's cellulose will bind itself, you just need to gather it evenly on your screen.

Mix up your pulp and water by stirring your hand around in it. This is called "charging" your vat. You'll want to do this before you make each sheet, or thereabouts, any time the paper and water start to separate.

Prepare your space. Next to the vat, depending on your handed-ness, lay down some newspaper and then a 'felt'. Have the rest of your newspaper and 'felts' nearby. Once you get going, you're not going to want to search around.

Add your pulp to the vat. I use three blenders of pulp to one blender of water. This will make a nice soup, not too thick, not too watery, and about the right height (near the middle) in the vat.

The lid is very important in this process. If your pulp goes flying all over it will be awful to clean up. You want to blend until your motor sounds a little tired (best explanation), then up your speed and blend for another 10-30 seconds.

If you are using a pulse blender, throw your paper in and then blend. Otherwise, turn it on some medium speed and pop your paper through the hole in the lid.

This ended up being a nice neutral-like light blue.

Squeeze excess water out of your sponge as you go, you want to get as much water out of your paper as possible so it will release from the screen.

I didn't have any cleats to go under my board so I pulled apart 2 clothes pegs and glued them to the underside of the board....Easy!!!!

Done.

The shutter is opened.

 

I did not build a shutter for my 45 pinhole camera. And it went well for the past few years.

Recently I found that, the failure rate was too high, because of not using a shutter.

In most of the cases, the skin color of my hand was captured by the camera.

I am not young anymore, my hand can not move as fast as before.

So, a shutter might solve the problem, right?

Let me test it.

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580ex II on boom with white shoot through umbrella triggered with RadioPopper JrX.

 

5D Mark II, 24-105mm. Check out the behind the scenes below.

 

Scans from "Young People's Sex Manual: From Petting to XX," a mid-1960s era howto doc from Japan. Link

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