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With Captain Jack Matt Smith my sigfig cosplaying as the Doctor, and featuring everyone's favorite time-traveling spaceship that looks like a phonebooth.
The interior is pretty simply built. The walls are two plates thick, and are put on 1x1 bricks with stud on one side. Basically using the fact that a brick is 2.5 plates thick to get that offset.
Over the years I’ve spent as a LEGO builder I’ve built many a tree… some beautiful, some passable, and some – let’s face it – terrible. Learn the easy why what I found out the hard way here!
This shows how to use microfilm, which lacks the sprocket holes.
Get a cheap camera to remodel.
Cut down the sprocket claws with a nail cutter.
Apply synthetic glue on it to get enough friction.
If needed and possible, drill a small hole to the spool (right ) and pour a small amount of glue to enforce the friction. For Canon AE-1 and AV-1, the rotation is on the opposite side to the expectation. So this does not work.
With this cheap improvement, a small film camera can make as good images as the ones 6x9 can make.
Not the clever girl who thought this up. Place background on flat surface (if outside, check for shadows or glare); position art or other printed image on background; hold camera parallel to art, lining up the edges in the view screen. Make sure at least 2 connecting edges are lines up with edges of camera screen. This prevents distortion. Click. Mar. 2019.
You can crop your feet out, of course.
I was asked how I did the curves on the Whitefang, so I made up this in LDD to explain. The two rightmost builds are different solution I tried to reinforce the links and keep the S shape. I ended up using the rightmost one, with 3 flex hoses. In the center technic holes I first placed a black string (part 16542) before putting the flex hose, so it stays firmly in place.
A pullback from today's product shoot. To test this set up I took a photo of my trusty SB-24. Even though I'm a Canon guy, I use Nikon strobes when I'm using radio remotes.
Strobist: SB-26s on umbrellas lighting the background. SB-28 on top through diffuser.
View the test photo below.
Here are instructions for bun hair. Lemme see if I can link to full size for downloading.... Shoot, I can't find the link on new flickr. Will see if I can figure it out in a bit.
Spin pins:
www.target.com/Goody-Simple-Styles-Spin-Pin/dp/B003FVDNO6
You are supposed to be able to use just these, without anymore bobby pins. But with all the spins and leaps Emma does, extra pins are needed. Plus she has a LOT of hair. You can also secure the bun with a hair net for added support (we do that for competitions) or if your bun has lots of "whispies" and "whomies" like layered hair will have.
Imagen para el tutorial: tatica.org/2014/09/10/que-es-una-mascara-de-capa-gimp/
Image for the tutorial: tatica.org/en/2014/09/10/que-es-una-mascara-de-capa-gimp/
Close up of the teddy
Find the how-to here
www.elinsdesignkaker.com/arbeidsbeskr/bamse_i_blomsterkur...
This is from a how-to guide I wrote on making a blood sponge bag, an easily-hidden effect to make blood appear on demand.
Read all about it at www.props.eric-hart.com/how-to/blood-sponge-bag/
I forgot... maybe not everyone know how to cut equilateral triangle, I prefer to do it this way from strip of paper, advantage is that you can go on with it as long as you have enough paper
I've written a guide to using flash for Utata. It's much more handy and less illegal than my originally planned article, A Guide to Flashing.
Flash, a-ah, king of the impossible
He's for everyone of us
Stand for everyone of us
He saved with a mighty hand
Every man every woman
Every child - he's a mighty flash
This vintage how-to book shows how to sketch and color scenes with musicians, plus iconic emblems and slogan. Very thin booklet format, from 1975.
Used the running pliers to break many of the score lines. And grozier/breaking plier combo for the rest. It's really easy to get lost so I'm careful to replace each piece in the figure as I finish working with it- made it easy to take the pictures too :)
Blog post with more pictures, tips,etc www.mosaicsmith.com/2012/08/more-how-to-make-glass-number...
This is a lighting setup for creative shot described on the blog:
www.akelstudio.com/blog/tabletop-photography-i-like-creat...
This is how I made my quilting tool....! :-))
I used one of the broken pieces to "fill in the bits that were missing!
I've got these overhead lights in my house that are fairly new. I need to paint this room, including the ceiling and also replace the bulb.
But there's no hardware of any kind. No screws, tabs, nothing. I can't twist the glass lamp part nor can I get the metal surround to budge. I can't seem to push up with the glass. Basically, I can't see any way into this light and I can't get any part to even jiggle in any direction.
So I ask thee of Flickrstan, how on earth am I supposed to disassemble this?
The BristleBot is a vibrobot with an agenda.
It's built with a vibrating pager motor and the busines end of a toothbrush that has slanted bristles.
Refer also to Jane Eborall's pages here:
www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/SCMR.pdf
and here:
www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/SCMRClosing.pdf
and here, the GR-8 Shuttles site (by Gary and Randy Houtz):
www.gr-8shuttles.com/index.shtml
Gary and Randy Houtz named and popularized the SCMR.
So this is the unedited version of yesterday's picture, featuring a bottle of lovely Tesco's brandy and a large breadknife from my kitchen.
The hair for the 366 was made up from about 5 different pictures of Captain Jack, with little bits snipped out and layered on top of each other. The beads in the hair are handy for covering up lazy blending (which is often the case when you need to get a picture done in an hour or two!). The cutlass was from a fancy dress site, and blurred to match the foreground blur, and the brandy label came from a vintage booze site. The hat and bandana were both put on separately, again to cover messiness at the top of the hair.
Finally it was taken into lightroom using the 300 preset, warmed up slightly, and had a cool filter layered on top of it. The last step was to add my favourite texture on overlay and erase it slightly around the main section of the picture.
180 face wash , lomics.co/l/0aPfuG4fwm
Download Lomics:
IOS - m.onelink.me/de143c61
Android - m.onelink.me/5301f4f0
An open secret of Nate Nielson’s, these craft beads are just about the width of one stud. They’re very soft, so they don’t clutch well at all. But if you’re building for pictures or no-touch display, they’re an effective and incredibly affordable way of getting LEGO to mate anti-stud to anti-stud. They work best if one side is deeper than the other. If you want to do plate to plate, you have to trim them down with a Sword of Exact Zero or similar tool.
They can also be used as muzzles for space guns. I'm pretty sure I bought these at a Michael's in New Jersey, though it could've also been this other place whose name escapes me at the moment.
To block game invites in Facebook, go to settings, Blocking, block apps and type in the name of the game.
Final photo "The dragon attacks" (out of "A foolish battle") can be found in my stream / LEGO-album / A foolish battle-album.
And yes.. another setup with strings attached to everything I could find ;-)
I needed several hours before the final photo was processed. At first the little string-problem had to be solved. Then I needed a background - the first photos were shot in front of the wooden board you might have seen in some of my other photos. After processing I was not glad with the result. The composition was quite horrible.. so I started again, placed everything in front of the white wall, hung the dragon in a higher position etc until everything seemed to look well.
And after three replacing uploads within the first minutes I'm quite happy with the result.
Made them originally for a different project, but they looked good as a spring decoration in 1:6. I'll be doing a tutorial later today or tomorrow, so check back if you're interested.
[edit] Here it is - the full "How to". [/edit]
This is how I shot my peppers in the glass shot.
The glass is from Pier One. It has an angled top and a crackle finish bottom.
I took the pic at about 4 in the afternoon so I had a little outside light, but most of my shots are taken when it's dark outside. Getting up and shooting first thing in the morning (cause it ain't a paying gig) ranks lower on the list than, oh, sleeping.
I always shoot tripod and this one is a manfrotto (stolen) borrowed from a co-worker. The lights are Lowel Ego lights that each use two- 27 watt 5500k fluorescent bulbs. I acquired (someone left it for a long time and I "borrowed" it) Shure mic stand. I simply slid the Lowel light onto the boom and adjusted it over the shot.
The white card up on the front right is foam board. One side is white and I spray adhered silver wrapping paper I had left over from Christmas. I bought a full board, cut it in half, and attached the wrapping paper. If I had some gold paper, I'd of used that on the other side of one of the boards.
The sweep and paper were included in a Lowel kit I found on Ebay. Both lights and the sweep were about $65 bucks. The seller had misspelled Lowel so it required creative searching to find it.
Behind the Lowel light on the mic stand are two cheap hardware store industrial light holders (about $4 USD each) and my spare 27 watt lights to light the background.
Shot with a Canon 1Ds Mark II with a Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens. I set an auto white balance and do almost no post processing in Photoshop. I run a custom edge mask workflow to minimize artifacting and keep my iStockphoto approval ratio above my abysmal 30%.
Hope that helps. And my camera goes with me every day so if you break into my house the best you can hope for is to meet my dog ;)
ADVANCED TECHNIQUES ONLY: See? What could be better than an awesome sandwich? Adding whipped cream, that's what.
This is my recollection of using a piece of film to pull out the film leader from inside a 35mm canister. I read this somewhere but I can't remember where. Please let me know if you do.
The arrow is pointing in the direction you're going to insert this into the canister. The hooks were cut into the sprockets to catch the sprockets of the film leader. This is just an illustration, you should cut more notches.
Once you have enough of this film puller in the canister turn the spindle counterclockwise (if you're looking at the canister with the spindle pointing towards you) until you feel the hooks catch. Slowly pull the film puller out. If things work it should drag out the film leader. You may have to try more than once.
I don't use this anymore since I just went out and bought a two dollar commercial film puller.