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Oh, why did I have to upload this image? I'm asking for it, aren't I?

 

©1958, with this being the 14th printing (1969). There are black & white illustrations throughout the book, but none worth sharing.

for the group pimpmypic www.flickr.com/groups/pimpmypixels/discuss/72157605211962...

 

I've been asked a few times how I made this image, so below I try to explain.

For me Photoshop is really a trial and error process where I'm constantly trying things so I have no straight process to recommend. However, were I to recreate this image again:

 

The first step would be to isolate the portrait from the background (rough hand lasso and copy, then paste as a layer on a white back ground).

 

I'd then make another copy of that layer (to add as a third layer later but keep hidden for now). in the case of this image I had also made a layer solely of her lips and one of her eyes to adjust them separately before merging the all the layers for the final image.

 

Below are the layers I'd make

 

Layer 1 = white backgroud

Layer 2 = portrait isolated

Layer 3 = prortrait isolated copy

Layer 4 = eyes only

Layer 5 = lips only

 

Next step would be to lighten layer 2 considerably using a curve adjustment (currently this layer and the background would be the only ones showing)

 

Then "blur" with Gaussian blur or "lens blur" a lot , to be still vaguely discernible as a face, but real blurry (lookup Orton Effect online for a tutorial of where I'm going with this step and the next).

 

Next step is to take the unadulterated portrait layer (Layer 3) and lighten it considerably with curve adjustments. Now "multipy" Layer 2 and Layer 3 to blend the

two layers together.

 

Once the layers 2 and 3 are "multiplied" together there is an underglow to the face. At this point I'd merge the two layers flat and again lighten considerably with curves so the hair was blond. Even adjusting the color curves

(yellow, red, blue) helps lighten the image further. Specifically I find the lightening of yellow really helps get the skin closer to white while retaining some shadow..

 

Switching the image to Black and White at this point allows it to be just that (remember the saved but undisplayed -hidden - layers of the lips and eyes in color to add back

later).

 

In Photoshop CS3 in switching to BW you have greater control and can again adjust the colors independently making yellow and red color channels lighter.

 

Now to blend the BW face with the white background is simply a mater of using the eraser tool at about 5% to go over and over the edges working inward to make the hair

blend without a hard edge. You may even want to partially erase other areas (forehead, cheeks) in this way to again get very white.

 

Then finally I added back the eyes and lips and used the blur tool to soften the hard edges. some color adjustments on both allowed them to be softer and lighter than the

originals, but I liked the pop of color.

 

Flatten all layers, play with curves one last time and "save as"...your done.

 

There you have it for what its worth.

 

This was my first try at highkey so I'm sure with subsequent trials I'd get a more refined process.

This sketch shows the proper method to measure the penis of your girth using a measuring tape. For more information please visit my how to measure your penis article at www.micropenis.info/2013/07/do-i-have-micropenis.html

 

This is my sketch, please attribute properly if you use it!

Note how the even details are printed and folded in such a way as to be visible in the final origami crane.

[STEP 3]

 

Load into your 120 cam. You can invert the direction of the canister if you want to Redscale :-)

 

Because of the morphology of 35mm canisters, you will see that the film is going to be slightly offset either upwards or downwards.

 

Frankly, *I* don't give a damn, my dear, but if you're an oxymoronic photographer, who'd like to do exact science with lo-fi photography, then make sure you are aware of this shift when you frame :-DDD

  

[STEP 4]

 

Well, there is no step 4, really. Just go at it.. Shoot till you can wind no more Frame spacing was fairly big with my Pentacon (maybe 2cm or so?) but I don't care. I can process a 36 exposure film for $2 at Wallgreen's; I got 15 frames out of a 36. 2 bucks for that is well worth it.

  

Obviously, like with most sprocket photo hacks, you will have to unload in a dark bag/room. Nice thing about this DIY adapter is that one of them will double as a rewind tool :-) No need to have a potentially film-damaging tool in your dark bag like a pair of scissors or pliers.

  

Hope this helps somebody. Enjoy! :-)

Nikon Df - Weeks Bridge over the Charles River, Cambridge, Mass.

 

Example image from Nikon Df Experience. e-book guide

 

Read my hands-on review of the Nikon Df, including some Tips and Tricks, on my blog Picturing Change

www.georgiaseitz.com/public/dmclibtat.pdf

Plate V

fig. 25

 

Floating rings can be thrown off a chain or off the second half of a split ring. Please, find it here: www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/TipsTechniques.htm

 

file in jpg format is here: flic.kr/p/2hN6jPJ

This photo shows the proper way to measure the length of your penis using a ruler. For more info please visit my how to at www.micropenis.info/2013/07/do-i-have-micropenis.html

 

This is my art, please attribute properly if you decide to use it for whatever reason

The screen I'm using is the simplest and cheapest version you can make. Both types of screen can be found at a hardware or feed store.

In a world filled with kitchen chaos. Someone have to put an end to it. So out of the depths of minerals comes... The "ATEEM Granite heroes" , lomics.co/l/LZkmOP6bxD

Download Lomics:

IOS - m.onelink.me/de143c61

Android - m.onelink.me/5301f4f0

De Strakke Hand again created a wallpainting on a house in Utrecht. It's a selfportrait in the window Gerard Dou painted in 1657

 

Camtech:

HowTo the making of Gerard Duo (Huawei)

Paper crane origami instructional video that's pretty good: www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfnyopxdJXQ

Simulated view of the Canon 5D Mark IV viewfinder, showing the autofocus AF Points and Single Point AF.

 

Example image from Canon 5D Mark IV Experience user guide.

That idea comes from a drawing by Gina, and I've been working around it for months, till I got it. From inside a split ring, pull out a loop as in the dimpled ring, work a mock ring and continue the normal split ring; then, first close the split ring and second close the mock ring. What can you do with the new propeller-shaped design? I'm looking forward to see your patterns! It could be the tatting summer game!

1. Soak in soapy water.

2. Transfer to mesh bag and rinse in bathtub.

3. Use laundry basket, lined with towel, to carry to living room.

4. Dump out on towels on living room floor, with fan blowing.

 

For the full story and discussion see the blog post:

www.brickpile.com/2010/03/18/washing-lego/

The images are then positioned in hugin (manually setting the control points; the autopano-sift option doesn't work very well with fish-eye images. There is a proposal in the Google Summer of Code to implement the feature matching in the projection space, this should help a lot).

 

Each image is warped into a bit of equirectangular projection. Enblend is then used to blend the images together.

 

(I stole the idea of the floating images from manu; his explanations are much better)

 

You can also see how this would be transformed into a small planet.

Make a hexagon template with an old plastic container, or some card stock (like I did). If you're just beginning, you should start with at least a 1.5 inch template, although I used a 2 inch hexagon for this tutorial.

 

Sometimes I over-complicate things, so this day I was at Bakery On The Common (in Natick - it's awesome. Wifi'd too, btw!).

 

I was determined to capture the basics of my business on index cards. For some reason I snapped this picture and it's a pretty damn good summary of how I think ... and how you should all be thinking if you want to use social media and community to grow YOUR business.

Here's more about Comic Life, how to use it, and examples of how I (and my staff!) integrate it into my lessons!

 

thedaringlibrarian.wikispaces.com/Comic_Life

An instructional video for a few types of Panda Portraits. I totally missed the headtube of my "headtube panda" attempt -- it's more like the handlebar panda, I guess.

 

I should shave and get a haircut next time. I'll take requests on other panda types.

 

30 seconds.

  

The shirt is this master/slave shirt from onelesscar.

The colour of your pulp is always darker than the resulting paper. Using construction paper and coloured paper for your 'dye' will create a wider gap between pulp and paper colour. If you want a bright colour, just really add lots of coloured paper to your pulp.

For a smoother finish, slap your paper up on a piece of glass like a window or sliding glass door. You can also leave it stuck to one 'felt' and clothes-pin it up (by the fabric, so the paper isn't marred), or you can remove the sheet from both 'felts' and let it dry, this will give you a rougher sheet.

Depending where you live, time to dry will vary. Give it overnight and check.

 

Side-by-side comparisons of drying techniques follow, as do examples of how different writing/drawing implements look on this kind of handmade paper.

Paper is tough, but be nice to it when you are removing it from the 'felts'.

I don't know if that is a new method, please tell me!

Once your screen is in the pulp, shake it back and forth just a little, evening and settling the pulp along the screen. Continue rocking/shaking the screen as you pull it up out of the vat. If you screw up, just flip the screen over and tap it against the water in the vat, the pulp will fall off--it prefers the water, slippery stuff.

A sample page from the COMMERCIAL PHOTO SERIES book "Lighting of Pro" (translation)

 

Related sample pix here and here

Well, there's a piece of paper. Yay!

Ideally, your bits of torn paper should be around 1x1 inch square. I'm using a pretty burly blender, so mine are a little bigger.

Start tearing up your paper. You could cut it if you want to, or have bad hands, but tearing is quicker overall.

Now you can remove your damp paper, and let it dry in a well-ventilated place, or you can keep it on the felt. Comparisons of drying techniques are here. REMEMBER: always pull from the corners and gently. Hang your 'felts' out to dry, recycle the newspaper.

Stand on it, centring yourself on the post. Hang out for a while, a few minutes is enough.

Rinse your screen, dry paper will be a nightmare to remove.

Brown paper bags don't blend up that well, so give it more blending if you don't like the chunks (which I do).

This is how the pulp looks with some of that blue flyer thrown in. Remember that your dried paper will be one to three shades lighter than your pulp.

Whoops! Here I am trying to show you the way to do things and I go and overfill the blender!

Time for the poor man's press. On some floor you can clean easy or don't care about, lay down your post and put your board on top.

Using a screen when draining will help you reclaim any leftover pulp, which can be squeezed out and left to dry. When you make paper later, this pulp can be broken up and re-blended.

. . . then the pulp will follow with some suggestive plopping.

The water will pour off first. . .

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