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These are the two knives I carry while diving. The left is my primary, which I strap to my inner right calf. The other knife I have hooked on a retrieval cord on my BCD. I make sure to wash and rinse my knives after every dive. Unfortunately, my primary knife seems to get some water stuck in the plastic, which means after drying there are often salty rust deposits around where the metal contacts the plastic.
Skill: knot the end of a thread
I tend to use two tailor's/pretzel knots stacked right on top of each other, but you can also do a Quilter's knot. Whichever you think students will grasp a hold onto easier.
Skill: thread a needle
I usually just shove the thread through the needle-eye by hand, with a bit of saliva and hand-eye coordination. But for those lacking that technique, using a needle threader may be a good approach. Just shove the threader's wires through the needle-eye, put the thread through the wires, then pull the threader away from the needle. The thread should go with it and your needle should be threaded.
Skill: Overcast stitch for securing components
The overcast stitch is handy for sewing Lilypad components to a piece of fabric. This is a good photo tutorial: www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/11/overcast-stitch-by-hand/. I like to push my needle up through the fabric, just outside of the component's connecting point/hole, and then push my needle down through the metal hole. Then push the needle back up through the fabric, just outside of the component's connecting point/hole.
Tip: Always secure connection points with 4-5 stitches.
When using connecting two electronic components with conductive thread, it's smart to use several stitches around the connecting point to ensure lots of contact between the metals.
Skill: Running stitch for connecting several components
A running or straight stitch can be used to connect the connecting points of several electronic components. It's the basic process where the thread comes up through fabric, then down, then up, down, etc. ApartmentTherapy has a tutorial on this stitch and others, here: www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-sew-basic-stitches-221433. I sometimes like to make smaller stitched on one side of the fabric, so they aren't quite as visible. If I don't care about looks, I'll often pick up several stitches at once to save the time of individually creating each stitch.
Tip: Ends of Thread Must Be Secured
I usually secure the end of threads by pulling the needle through several previous stitches, or sometimes backstitching. This is necessary to prevent all your work from unraveling! this tutorial describes some options.
Tip: Always trim loose thread ends
Keep your thread ends short. You don't want an electrically conductive thread to touch other electrically conductive thread (when a battery is involved), as it will do weird things to your circuit and/or short the circuit and make it not work.
Tip: Do not sew threads so that they cross.
Crossing threads when sewing may short the circuit. Also, do not sew too loosely, as dangling threads may also cross other threads (similar to long thread ends). Make sure that when your project is being worn, different lines of threads don't touch each other, either. If you're afraid of threads touching/crossing during wear, it's possible to insulate the threads with hot glue, or by stitching fabric over top of the conductive threads (using non-conductive thread).
Tip: Don’t sew positives to negatives and vice versa. Notice which is which!
The circuit only works if negatives are connected to negative sources, and the same for positives. This sort of forces the circuitous nature of the circuit ;)
If you want, you can just free hand the image you want onto the canvas. However, I'm not particularly good at drawing, so this is the method I use:
(1) After you draw a grid over your desired image, figure out how many tall & wide you need/want.
(2) Using some basic math, determine how large the squares on the target canvas need to be. (I take the smallest length/width of the canvas, and divide it by the smallest number from the previous step.
(3) Using a ruler, draw squares of the size determined in the previous step onto the canvas.
(4) Using the grids on both the desired image and the canvas, draw the illustration onto your canvas.
Cut off the unnecessary fabric just below the petal points. Be sure to keep the fabric held together with your fingers.
Create your own bookmark -
Take an envelope and turn it so the flap is up-side-down facing you.
Cut the right or left bottom corner off.. or both for 2 bookmarks. Cut the size of your choosing.
Decorate, draw, paint, write. Do your thing.
The page(s) of the book fit into the open pocket :)
Surprise! They are not the same inside. The 'how-to' photos are of a French button, but the instructions work for both French and English buttons.
This is the finished brushhead installation. I just tried it and it works fine. Savings $10 as the new brush came from the dentist. The Sonicare was a Christmas gift from Debbie who works at the Soquel dental clinic.
I finally found some at a poster store in Hanover. They were more than I wanted to spend [$2/each, $1.50 online] but I knew I had the right things, and no shipping charges. I like giving business to the poster store too, they are nice.
Some Eames chairs might need 20 (if they're coarse threaded). These happen to be the fine-threaded variety.
I built IanH's Bidoit shops. This model is made up of two buildings that can be glued together. I glued them together with rubber cement and then placed a weight to hold them together while the glue set. In this case a bowl with the paper cement bottle on it worked very well.
My rendition of this awesome camera stabilizer invented by Johnny Cheung Lee. It actually does keep your movie footage stable. You can walk, go up and down stairs, and everything else while keeping your footage rock solid.
más info aquà www.flickr.com/groups/nikonchile/discuss/72157594521120862/
5 cms straw grid, 10 cms straw grid, 10 cms snoot
These are the pieces you are going to need.
The measurements are half the garment, so make sure you get them right.
First, measure from under your bust to your waist. Add a few inches for seam allowances and a hem. This is where my 10" came from.
Next, measure around the largest part of your stomach. Divide that number by two and add an inch or so. This will be the measure for Piece C. Mine was 16"
Then, decide where you want your button "strip" to go. I put mine at about 11" leaving 5" for the opposite side. add 1-2" for your casings and about 1 1/2" for seam allowances. This gave me my 8 1/2" and my 14 1/2".
The skirt and the straps are simple, go ahead and make them what you wish.
Below are my measurements.
Piece A=14 1/2" x 10"
Piece B=8 1/2" x 10"
Piece C=16" x 10"
Skirt=12" x 64". (For width, I used my waist measurement x2. This can differ for the amount you want it to be gathered.)
Straps=26" x 3"
Try doing both pieces at the same time for extra awkwardness! Better yet, try holding a camera in the other hand!
Accompanying post: domesticat.net/2010/03/how-make-blinkenlight
Main page for this quilt: domesticat.net/quilts/blinkenlights