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Best viewed large on black. Had my exam at the weekend which was quite stressful so went for a walk around Cardiff Bay. Welsh TV presenter Rhodri Owen was filming a piece, although I think they were waiting for the right lighting because there was a lot of pacing around!
Le tengo mucho afecto a esta vieja camara que fue de mi padre. Es una Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Super B.
La compro cuando yo naci. Muchas fotos de mi infancia las tomo con ella.
No puedo evitar sentir nostalgia cuando la tengo en mis manos. Segun lo que he investigado no es un modelo clasico, aunque fue la primer camara automatica de 35mm.
El lente es un Carl Zeiss Tessar. El "Tessar: viene del griego que significa "cuatro:, por los cuatro elementos que tiene el objetivo. Muchos productos fotograficos Sony y los mas recientes telefonos con camara de Nokia utilizan estos lentes Carl Zeiss Tessar, (aunque los actuales ya no usan los 4 objetivos, pero conservan el nombre Tessar por mercadotecnia).
En esa epoca los alemanes predominaban en el mercado de las camaras fotograficas. Los productos japoneses eran vistos como lo son el dia de hoy los chinos.
Era tanta la fama de los alemanes en instrumentos fotograficos, que los japoneses copiaron el nombre de Zeiss Ikon para usarlo en su marca Nikon (El" Ni" es por nipon).
Hoy la empresa Zeiss Ikon intenta recuperar el prestigio perdido. Se rumora que sacara a la venta la primer camara digital de esa empresa.
Regresando a la Contaflex, las fotos que toma en automatico no son muy buenas, pero creo que seria injusto compararla con las camaras fotograficas actuales, prefiero recordarla como una maravilla tecnologica de la epoca.
My trusty old Canon AE-1. I purchased it about 4 years ago in order to enjoy the last years of the film era. It has served me well but now the time has come to let it go. I'm selling it tomorrow. I figured it would be nice to create a digital memory of it before the new owner is coming to pick it up.
This is a HDR shot made out of three bracketed RAW images shot at -1.3, 0 and 1.3ev.
After creating the HDR and performing tone mapping I loaded it up in Photoshop and created two layers. One with the HDR image in b/w and one with the colored HDR image. I blurred the colored overlay and toned down the saturation, resulting in this dreamy, vintage style memory of my old trusty AE-1.
I hope you like it! If you do, make sure you check out the large version
spec:
pinhole size: 0.2 mm dia.
focal length: 26 mm
f stop: 130
angle of view : 110 deg
film : 120 , 6"x6"
material : cardboard, rubber, glue, tape, etc.
Intentional blur created in camera
Software used:
Lightroom 5
Topaz Studio - watercolour effect
Photoshop Elements 11
If you would like to see more of my photo-art, please have a look at my album ... flic.kr/s/aHskHKuNDr
I now have an internet webcam with live video stream trained 24x7 on my build area! Check it out at OCHREJELLY.CAMERA.
And if I'm building, you can even tweet me @OchreJellyCam. It'll go straight to my iPad.
As magical as all this is, there may be some IT kinks to iron out at first. So report in the comments whether you can or cannot see anything (both of which are equally useful to know). Be sure to include country, region and browser you are viewing from.
Also, my camera seems to be prejudice against Internet Explorer users... Right now it only feeds static images to IE (you have to hit Refresh to see changes). So IE users, lemme know if you would prefer ActiveX, Java or Quicktime to see a live feed.
This Kodak Retina (serial number 404802 K) of 1936/40 is my first camera.
I used it from 1962 to 1967.
Used previously by my father, I did apply some changes: attachments for belt, contact syncro- flash, slide for flash and to the bottom attack for close-up photography for a system designed by my father, a talented mechanical precision.
I still have this machine...... working perfectly!
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Questa Kodak Retina (numero di serie 404802 K) del 1936-1940 è la mia prima macchina fotografica che ho usato dal 1962 al 1967. Era la macchina di mio padre alla quale io feci apportare alcune modifiche: attacchi per cintura, contatto sincro-lampo, slitta per il flash e sulla parte inferiore una slitta per collegare un sistema per fotografare a distanza ravvicinata progettato da mio padre, valente meccanico di precisione.
Conservo ancora questa macchina ..... perfettamente funzionante!
*************************************************
Please don't use this image on websites, blogs or other media without my explicit permission. © All rights reserved
You can see my most interesting photo's on flickr: -------> FLICKR click here
You can see my web site as Nikon Photographer Advanced: -------> NPA click here
It's a toy made to look like a camera. When you hold the "lens" against a light source and look through the viewfinder, you will see small pre-made photos that are built into it.
thank's, schoschie
My self made camera bag! :D
Please forgive me for the quality of the picture, it's taken with my phone.
Materials:
-Foam
Some stores specialized in refitting furniture also sell just the foam. They have it in different thickness and can cut you the quantity you need. I bought a piece of 33inches (80cm) for 7£, but honestly, I didn't use half of it for a bag of that size. With 4/5£ worth of foam you should have enough.
If you don't know where to find such a place in your town, go to a fabric store and ask them, they should know (they'll be even more willing to help you if you buy them the fabric you need).
Replacing it with Bubble wrap just DOESN'T WORK (it's not protecting enough and it doesn't last), and it's not that much cheaper.
- Fabric
Something simple, cotton preferably. Avoid anything like fur, velvet and suede, they'll attract dust. Pick something light enough to allow you to find your gear easily.
- Cardboard
You want it thin but strong and light. I went to Spar and asked them if they didn't have some pieces of boxes they were about to bin.
Then you need thread, needles, ducktape, double faced tape, velcro, and if wanna go quicker, fabric glue.
Oh, and of course a bag lol. I picked mine for 9£ at the Eagle Market. It's probably not gonna last forever, but I can still take the insert out and put it in another bag.
First of all, take mesurement and draw how you wanna put your gear in.
With the cardboard and tape, I formed a box to fit inside the bag. It was quite tricky to put it in, I had to fold the bottom inside to be able to twist it, then once inside I taped the bottom back.
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Then I cutted out pieces of foam to cover each side of the box and wrapped it in fabric.
I sewed the fabric around then reversed it and closed the last side with ducktape.
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TIP: If you don't have a sewing machine, then don't bother with sewing the "walls" of the box, you won't be able to see the face stuck to the box anyway, so just do everything with ducktape, you'll save hours!
Stick them to the cardboard with the double faced tape.
Then I wrapped more foam with fabric to do the compartements dividers.
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Adhesive velcro becomes very handy when you don't have a machine. Mine weren't so it too me ages to put them on. Multipurpose Power Pritt glue can work, but make sure you wait long enough before using them (1 to 2 hours).
Stuck the other bit of the velcro inside the main "box" and then put the dividers in place.
Then I only used more bits of foam, fabric and tape to fill the spaces.
One of the lenses is under another one which doesn't make it very handy, but I really don't use it often so in case I need it I'll have time to get it.
This bag will just work perfectly for me I think.
It's not waterproof I think but I'll make sure I buy a rain cover and carry it in the bag at all times.
There is some pockets in the front, very handy for accessories.
The whole thing is rather light as well, which is very good considering my back problems.
Hope my experience will help some. It can work in a lot of different shapes, bags. Just adapt it to your own gear (it can be changed and rearrange when you upgrade.... many expensive camera bags can't).
I've been meaning to do something like this for a while.
Most of my Canon FD gear in together in one place.
Back row:
Tamron Adaptall 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 Macro
Canon FDn 70-210mm f/4
Ozeck 75-300mm f/5.6 FD
Canon FDn 35-105mm f/3.5
Canon FDn 35-70mm f/4
Camera Bodies:
Canon AE-1 Program with FDn 50mm f/1.8
Canon FT QL with FL 50mm f/1.4
Canon A-1 with FDn 50mm f/1.4 (with hood)
Canon EF with FD 35mm f/2 SSC
Canon T70 with FDn 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 Macro
Front row
Canon FDn 200mm f/4
Canon FDn 28mm f/2.8 (with hood)
Canon FDn 28mm f/2
Canon FDn 17mm f/4
Canon FD 50mm f/1.8 SC
Canon FDn 135mm f/2.8
Canon FDn 50mm f/1.4
Canon FDn 35mm f/2.8 (with hood)
Missing from this are my AV-1 and its 50mm f/1.8 that I've owned for about thirty years.
i just survived two years with an iphone and celebrated by rediscovering a "new" one of my first favorite camera; 'canon prima zoom 65' which i lost to the morning mist at a wedding years ago. i picked it up today and am so very excited. getting the film i enjoyed using with this camera as well (kodak gold) apart from this film being 200 asa instead of 400.
thanks to www.flickr.com/photos/vagn49/ for selling me that good aul canon point and shoot.
This very heavy and beautifully built camera made its debut in 1964. This is not to be confused with the later and inferior Singlex TLS. This fine example is in full working order, including the clip on meter. The actual manufacturer has been accredited to Nikon, Mamiya,Yashica, and Ricoh, to name ones I have heard of. The camera is claimed by Ivor Matanle to be a Nikkorex F in disghuise, and the 55mm f1.4 Rikenon lens to be a Nippon Kogaku 50mm f1.4 which did not meet Nikon's standards, Love it ! But it is not easy to find.
Canon EOS 10s camera
Tokina 11 - 16mm f2.8 EF lens
FPP Hand-Rolled Eastman Fine Grain 2366 bw film
Shot at iso 6 - Hand-held 1/10th sec - f2.8
home-processed in Kodak Technidol
3D Carved, Fondant covered Camera Cake. I used an edible image on the back display of the camera. The cake is10" wide x 6" deep x 7" high, not counting the rice cereal lens.
Changing some things around in the house, I've moved 37 cameras and a few lenses into this dust- and cat-resistant cabinet in the family room. Cameras were chosen on the basis of technical interest, curb appeal and compactness, for the most part.
The top shelf is all American made; second shelf is all German; and the bottom shelf is a mixture from various countries including Germany, Japan, England, Italy, Czechoslovakia and Russia.
This gets re-rearranged from time to time.
www.flickr.com/photos/26262745@N08/16464400135/in/datepos...
www.flickr.com/photos/26262745@N08/16438402426/in/datepos...
www.flickr.com/photos/26262745@N08/16462657841/in/datepos...
This is some of my gear! :)
*Scroll over the photo for the name of each piece of equipment.*
I enjoy switching it up between polaroids, panoramas, medium format and digital, as I adore the outcome of both lo-fi and hi-fi photography!
I'd love to hear about your experiences with any of these cameras, so please feel free to comment and I'll be sure to reciprocate! Thanks for checking out my photo. :)
Trying to catch up on photos but still consumed with Kaylee's potty training and other house keeping. Here's a quick shot of a vintage camera from our collection found at a garage sale up in Washington.
Happy Cliche Saturday!!
Like Father, like Son...
...Austin and I posing for a "selfie" picture (taken via a mirror) exactly 12 years ago (to this date).
Title derived from the fact that we both know/knew how to pose for the camera (him at the ripe age of 7 MONTHS old!!!).
What I love most about this pic is that both of us are looking at each other in the mirror for the pose...
...another HISTORY REDUX pic posted for posterity.
Tokyo, Japan.
We are in the process of photographing much of our collection for the book that will accompany an exhibition in the fall.
This bisque frog stands beside an egg with a hand held bellows camera. It is rather strange but charming. The dealer who sold it to us is sure it is German from early in the 20th century.
At work, I shoot mostly in the studio. Here is my gear for my personal work. I usually just carry one camera body and a couple of lenses and a flash at a time depending on what i plan to shoot. I also use different bags depending on what I want to put in it.
For my portable lighting gear:
Manufactured by: Zeiss Ikon, Dresden, Germany
Model: 1935, Zeiss catalog no.520, Produced between 1932-1938
Folding film camera, film 120 roll, picture size 6x4.5 cm , 16 frames
Lens: Novar - Anastigmat f: 3,5 / 7 cm, serial no.1310428
Aperture: f/3.5 - f/16, no click stops,
setting by a pointer and dial on the front lower side of the lens-shutter barrel
Focusing: manual front focusing, guess the distance,
Focus range: 1.2 -10m, +inf.
Shutter: Compur leaf shutter, speeds: 1-1/300 +T, B, no click stops,
setting: dial and ring on the lens-shutter barrel
T and B not cock via the shutter lever, they works only via pressing shutter release
Shutter cocking lever: on the shutter
Shutter release lever: on the shutter
Cable release screw: a separate screw on the top of the shutter
Winding knob: on the right of the bottom plate
Viewfinder: folding optical finder, self-erecting, on the top plate
Landscape shot: when the camera on vertical position (reverse due to the frame size)
Portrait shot: when the camera on horizontal position (reverse due to the frame size)
Viewfinder release button: on the top plate, beside the finder
Bellows release: Automatic opening, by a button on the top plate, right side of the finder
Bellows closing: by pressing two small silver handles on top of the struts
Flash PC socket: none
Back cover: Hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Engravingson the back cover leatherette: Zeiss Ikon logo and 520
Red windows: Two, due to the old, not standardized numbering of the 120 roll films, at that time no numbers for half frames, so with two windows you can use 6x9 numbering: To start, the film is wound until the numeral "1" is seen in the first window. After the exposure, the same numeral is advanced to the second window for the second exposure. You must do some exercise for not winding past the mark as the film is traveling a very short lateral distance.
Hand strap: leather, w/ strap lugs
Tripod socket: old type 3/8''
Body: metal, Weight: 442g, Dimensions: 11.5x8.5x3.5cm (folded)
Serial no. 1229521 (on the shutter)
Ikonta A catalog number 520, the 4.5 x 6cm format not receiving a suffix to it's number.
The first of the Ikonta cameras were the 520 series. They were available as 520 (4.5 x 6cm), 520/2 (6 x 9cm), 520/14 (5 x 7.5cm), 520/15 (6.5 x 11cm), 520/16 (6 x 6cm) and 520/18 (3 x 4cm). Ikonta 520 is the smallest Ikonta camera, and the letter designation to its size is A.
Posting photos of photographic equipment on flickr is arguably slightly nerdy, but it's cold and nasty outside and I have this banged up old Agfa Billy Record lying around. It's no use for anything but smiling at, and possibly shooting with a macro lens.
"You can take pictures of family but I cannot allow you to take pictures of our dining hall!", was the reprimand I got.
I felt like a little child with my hand caught inside the cookie jar. :-[
What would you do?
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II
[ 0.017 sec (1/60) | f/1.8 | ISO 400 ]
This is my camera collection, minus a couple. First of all, it's missing my Nikon D200 (I had to take the photo with something!). It's also missing my Casio Exilim EX-Z60, I just totally forgot to include it. Not included is also my new Zorki 4, but that's only because it's somewhere between Ukraine and Michigan right now.
Here's a rundown of what you're looking at:
Canon FTb 35mm SLR with a Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens - Yep, a Nikon lens on a Canon body. I used the rare Canon MC-N adapter to get it on there. Introduced in 1971 and first to feature the Canon FD mount. Bought the body at Camera Connection in Redford, MI in January 2008. (back row, left)
Agfa Ansco Shur-Shot box camera - Agfa introduced the Shur-Shot in 1932, but I don't know the detail of this specific model. I haven't come across any others with the same detailing on the face either. The camera says to use D-6 Agfa Plenachrome film, pretty sure that's not available anymore. I think my mom gave this to me, no idea where shot got it though. (back row, 2nd from left)
Yashica Mat 124 TLR (twin lens reflex) - Essentially a copy of the Rolleiflex, Yashica came out with this TLR in 1968, again I'm not certain of the production date of mine. Takes 120 or 220 film with 6x6 frames. I got this heavy mother on eBay in June of 2006. (back row, 2nd from right)
Nikon N75 35mm SLR with Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 - Known as the Nikon F75 outside the US, this camera was at the middle to higher end of the entry level SLRs from Nikon. Only available for a few years from February 2003 to January 2006, I got mine as a Christmas present in 2003 from a then girlfriend. This is the camera that really got me interested in photography. (back row, right)
Olympus Pen-EE S half-frame 35mm camera - Funny little camera introduced in 1962. This camera takes pictures vertically so you basically get twice the amount of frames in a roll of film. I don't remember where I got this, possibly either a gift or a garage sale in the last few years. (middle row, left)
Olympus D-360L 1.3MP digital camera - Released in February of 2000, I bought mine for $300 just before a trip to San Diego in October 2000. It was either the camera or a Playstation 2 (in the end my mom got me the PS2 for Christmas). This was my first digital camera and I had a lot of fun with it. It takes 4 AA batteries, so it can get pretty heavy. It has a fixed lens stuck at an 35mm equivalent of 36mm. I used a 64MB SmartMedia memory card with it. (middle row, right)
Canon PowerShot S100 Digital ELPH 2.1MP camera - Released in the Summer of 2000 at $600. Has a 2x optical zoom and it was the smallest digital camera on the market when it was released. It's actually still one of the smaller digital cameras I've seen. The camera works fine but I've never actually used it. My dad gave it to me when he upgraded a few years ago. (front row, left)
Leica D-Lux 3 10MP digital camera - This joint production between Leica and Panasonic was released in the later part of 2006 along with its sister, the Panasonic DMC-LX2. Comes with a 4x zoom and optical image stabilization. Shoots in JPR or RAW and has three choices of framing: 16:9 (like a widescreen TV), 2:3 (like traditional 35mm film), and 4:3 (like a normal P&S digicam). I love the 16:9 ratio. I got this camera from Adray Camera in January 2008.
Il regalo di natale da parte del mio amore!!!
Bellissima *__*
...penso che mi divertirò tanto!!!
Se le cartucce non costassero un occhio mi divertirei di più...va va beh, mi giocherò bene gli scatti :P
This is the Canon 28 fixed lens (f2.8) rangefinder. This is the model carried by the namesake of the John Walter's film, "Pecker".
Cute little SLR from 1977. Top shutter speed of 1/1500s!!! Comes with an excellent f1.9 55mm Fujinon lens. Open aperture metering. 2 x SR44 batteries. M42 mount. :)
A lot of people forget that Fuji used to make their own SLRs. Their Fujinon lenses were some of the best glass ever made!! People dismiss Fujica as being 'toy-like' and opt more for Asahi Pentaxes but all that means is low prices for Fujicas :) The viewfinder is meant to be one of the brightest of SLRs and the open aperture metering is quite revolutionary at the time. We shall see....
September 2011
You can see if there is tension or not by looking at what the north korean soldier wear on the head: a cap = everything is quiet, a helmet = they are on red alert.
The Korean Demilitarized Zone is a strip of land running across the Korean Peninsula that serves as a buffer zone between North and South Korea. The DMZ cuts the Korean Peninsula in half, crossing the 38th parallel on an angle, with the west end of the DMZ lying south of the parallel and the east end lying north of it. It is 155 miles (248 km) long and approximately 2.5 miles (4 km) wide, and is the most heavily armed border in the world.
This isolation has created as a byproduct one of the most well-preserved pieces of temperate land in the world!!
The 2 countries have signed armistice but NOT the peace...
La Korean Demilitarized Zone, KMZ, est une bande de terre qui court le long de la péninsule coréenne pour séparer le nord et le sud le long du 38eme parallèle. Les deux pays ont signés l’armistice, mais pas la Paix. La frontière est marquée par une bordure en béton. Seuls les coréens du nord continuent à assurer une présence physique, les américains et les sud coréens ont construit un immense bâtiment d’où ils surveillent via cameras les mouvements du Nord.
Franchir la frontière revient à se faire tirer dessus. Peu de nord coréens osent franchir le 38eme parallèle car les représailles envers la famille restante, les voisins et les collègues de travail sont immédiates.
© Eric Lafforgue
Contax N1 ,
Vario-Sonnar T*24-85mm/f3.5-4.5
Vario-Sonnar T*70-200mm/f3.5-4.5
Makro-Sonnar T* 100mm /f2.8
Planar T*50mm/f1.4
Nikon F3 + MD4 + MK1 , Nikon FM2,
24mm/f2.8,
35mm/f1.4,
50mm/f1.4,
85mm/f1.4,
180mm/2.8ED,
35mm/f2.5 Series E,
100mm/f2.8 Series E.
Tamron 70-210mm/f3.5.
Bronica SQ-A,
50mm/f3.5,
80mm/f2.8,
105mm/f3.5,
150mm/f3.5,
250mm/f5.6,
Tele-Converter 2x,
auto bellow,
AE finder.
Pentax Espio 928 smc 28-90mm
Olympus [mju:]-1 35mm/3.5
Gossen Lunasix-F
some cameras was not Including in there
Leica M3,CM ,Yashica T Zoom ,Lomo fisheye2,Gitzo NO.312 Tripod,Gitzo 370 Head.
The Kodak Retina IIIc might just be the finest folding 35mm RF camera. It can take interchangeable Retina "c" lens elements - 35mm, 50mm and 80mm. Built in selenium meter. All metal. Made in Germany. A hot little number that's passing through my hands, as I am readying another batch of estate cameras for ebay.