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I had the RS-80N3 trigger for my Canon camera, and I wanted to trigger the camera remotely with my Pocketwizards. I searched for and found Thomas E Witte's site, describing how to make my own pretrigger cord, to connect the wizard to a Canon camera:
www.gophotography.net/tips/releasecanon.html
Here's another site for Nikon:
www.sportsshooter.com/rritari/nikon_pw_cable/
This cord triggers my 20D fine. The switch is optional and it is designed to avoid a "camera sleep mode", which would slow the camera reaction time if the camera had gone to sleep. When the switch is closed, the camera thinks the shutter release button is half-depressed, which readies it for a next shot and which limits review on the LCD screen. Of course if you limit sleep mode the camera batteries will need to be recharged sooner. The camera works fine with the switch in either the closed or open position. However, when the switch is closed, you have to remember to leave the camera on continuous shooting drive mode, or it won't work properly. I found out the hard way that leaving the camera in single shot mode with the switch closed will result in a freeze of the camera after a single shot. There is no harm done but you can't take more pics until you review the images. For a discussion of that point, see here:
www.sportsshooter.com/message_display.html?tid=23493
With the switch closed, you can't review images on the LCD until you open the switch. And you need to open the switch if you want to change camera settings. To later review images on the LCD screen, you open the switch and then review images. I can take rapid-fire images with my PWII+, though the recycle time for my strobes is a limiting factor. On my EOS 3 and 1dMKIV it works fine as well. The way this cord is made, normal function of the RS80-N3 is preserved. If you want to also trigger this hardwired, make a long cord with a switch on one end and a female 1/8" monoplug to hook up to the male plug above. Works fine as a backup if your PW's fail.
Thankyou, Thomas!
Save some dough, and have a little fun with a soldering iron.
Dave
Photograph © 2014 TheBigTog. Any use of this photograph for ANY reason without the expressed written consent of the author is prohibited.
Couleur : Ancient white - Sangria
Logo : Poscas & bombes
Vernis UV mat
Typographie sur base de "ChronoFont charvie"
Vadu Amka© 2012-2014
strobist info:flash con paraguas blanco translucido a 45 grados por la izquierda, disaparado con cactus V4
A milk drop flings tassles as it colllides with another drop
Strobist: Sunpak Auto 26SR above the drop zone. Triggered with PocketWizard Plus III. Drops formed with Pluto Trigger and water drop valve.
Weaphones â„¢ Gun Sim Free Vol 1 – the first part of the popular series of original weapon simulators. Each of the models is completely interactive. Shutters, drums, triggers, switches modes and other details subservient swipe and tap. A convenient location on the screen allows you to use y...
Well, i neither have a hotshoe, nor do i have a pc jack. Using this gobo i can better trigger the optical slaves of the nikon guns, plus i dont hit the subject with the ugly oncamera flash.
Used cardboard, white paper and velcro.
strobist: sb24 & sb26 on 1/8 power, shootthrough printing paper
Phottix is holding a contest to name its upcoming TTL Flash Trigger.
See full info at the Phottix Journal
Nothing special, just a first test of a piezo-trigger used to fire two flashes when the coins hit the table.
An Arduino is connected to a wireless flash trigger using an SCR, which is activated when the analog line from a piezo elements reaches a given threshold (from sounds or shock - from the coins hitting the table).
Video of the trigger: www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVLuTsm9_0Y&hd=1
Photograph © 2014 TheBigTog. Any use of this photograph for ANY reason without the expressed written consent of the author is prohibited.
Bokeh butterflies for this little sweety. Did a real quick setup while the kids played and managed to get a few cute pics. She was a great model - patient and ever primping :)
Strobist: LP160 cameral left bounced from umbrella, LP160 camera right low bounced from umbrella. Triggered by Cactus V5's.
Canon EOS 5D Mark III
EF50mm f/1.4 USM
1/200 sec @ f/1.4
ISO 100
Focal Length 50mm
14.5'' Wylde Chamber .223 with 12'' Samson Evolution Handguard, DBAL-A2, Surefire Mini Scoutlight in LaRue QD Mount.
Surefire MB556K Brake.
Troy folding sights,
Elcan Spectre DR 1-4X optic.
Geissele Super 3 Gun Trigger,
Magpul MOE+ Grip,
LMT Sopmod Stock.
Daniel Defence Milspec BCG and Surefire 60Rnd Mag.
I made myself six optical slaves. I was tired of forgetting to turn off the power on my ebay triggers when I was done with them. I keep draining the batteries. So I decided I needed some optical triggers that were powered by the flash trigger voltage. These are designed to be used for low voltage low trigger voltage flashes. I have a Canon 420EZ that only has a trigger voltage of 4 volts and these work fine with it.
The case is a RJ11 cable joiner. I pulled out the guts and machined out the rest of the plastic. I then took some viewfinder lens assemblies for one time use cameras and machined the lens to match the window I made in the housing.
The electronic assembly was soldered together in point to point fashion.
I added a 1/8" mini jack as an output for longer cable use or as a input for a ebay trigger receiver. I can trigger the flash with the receiver and use the connected optical slave as a backup trigger in case the radio trigger didn't get the signal (as long as there was another flash that did fire).
A wine glass filled with food colouring, then a small plum type fruit was dropped into the glass.
The camera was set for a two second exposure and the mirror was locked up to reduce movement.
Background: White opaque perspex sheet.
The flash units were:
Vivitar 283 adapted to control the light output - for this test it was set to 1/3rd power. Placed to the left of the glass pointing at the background. This was the main remote trigger
Yongnuo YN467 set to 1/16th power on S1 (manual) mode. Placed to the right, level with camera and fired through a white umbrella. It was triggered by a slave unit activated by the flash from the 283.
The camera was set to 2 secs @ f16, triggered by remote and set to a two second delay. As the shutter fired the plum was dropped into the glass and the flashes fired by hand.
The problem with the non-uniform lighting was caused by the flash being too close to the background and this, in turn, being too close to the glass. It's clear when taking these types of photos, they need a greater area in which to place all the elements in order to give more even lighting. It's clear photographing splashes like tgis needs a lot of space and sophisticated lighting. Everyday flash units are not sufficient.
There's a blog started recently where you can learn the techniques to make droplet photos.
Press this trigger and POOF! the tripod disappears. (Well, almost: you can still see it if you look carefully.)
Stereographic projection of this equirectangular panorama.
Part of my Wee planets set.
A low part count audio flash trigger, based on an mbed LPC2368. A similar design can be used for a light gate based trigger, using an LDR and a laser.
pictured: two of my PD-8 dual trigger rubber toms.
My gently used Roland TD-9 V-Drums electronic drum set and drum brain module. I haven't played it in a while, as you can see by the thin layer of dust on it. I just haven't had time.
The set includes:
TD-9 percussion sound module,
one PDX-8 dual trigger mesh-head snare,
three PD-8 dual trigger rubber toms,
two CY-8 dual trigger cymbal pads,
one CY-5 dual trigger hi-hat pad,
one hi-hat FD-8 HH control pedal,
one KD-8 kick trigger pad,
a Pearl P-900 Series bass drum pedal,
a drum throne in mint condition