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Series of my passionate super outing to the tip of Borneo, Kudat. Hoping to go there again and capture more of the beauty of mother nature
Summer has officially arrived. Plymouth Rock Assurance reviewed four common dangers and got summer health tips from the experts to help keep you and your family safe.
This tipper was made by my good friend Brian Letourneau. He has a business called Brian's Bodhran Beaters. He makes these beautiful drum sticks in his little workshop out in the back yard.
This stick came from a branch that fell off an ash tree in my yard. I dont play a bodhran but I really enjoy his craftsmanship. He makes all kinds of different styles of sticks made out of all sorts of different woods.
New blog celebrating my philosophy of photography with tips, insights, and tutorials!
Ask me any questions! :)
Nikon D800E Fine Art! A Study of the Sunset at the San Clemente Pier! Dr. Elliot McGucken Fine Art Photography! Nikon AF-S Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR!
I think my hallmark/trademark might be that I see more beauty in things than others, and I can never pick my favorite shot! For instance, as the sun set over the San Clemente Pier, I loved all the light!
New Instagram!
Celebrating Dr. E's LAw of Moving Dimensions ^& Dynamic Dimensions Theory dx4/dt=ic which derives from Homer's Odyssey! "Tell me, O muse, of that ingenious hero who travelled far and wide after he had sacked the famous town of Troy. Many cities did he visit, and many were the nations with whose manners and customs he was acquainted; moreover he suffered much by sea while trying to save his own life and bring his men safely home; but do what he might he could not save his men, for they perished through their own sheer folly in eating the cattle of the Sun-god Hyperion; so the god prevented them from ever reaching home. Tell me, too, about all these things, O daughter of Jove, from whatsoever source you may know them." --Homer's Odyssey! herosodysseyphysics.wordpress.com
Will be busy printing and framing in nice large, matted formats and frames and museum glass! Five of these photos will be printed on 40" x 60" floating wall mounted metal sheets! I think I know which--will share photos of the photos hanging on the walls!
And I am mounting some on plexiglass/acryllic--front mounting them! Some I am printing on lossy fuji-crystal archival paper too, and then front mounting 40"x60" versions to plexiglass--will send photos!
The secret to HDR photography is that you want people to say, "Woe dude--that's unreal!" And not, "Dude--that's not real!" "Unreal" is the word they use when they're trying to figure out the photo--what makes it cool--is it a photo? Is it painted? How'd it come to be--how'd you bend the light that way? "That's not real," is what they say if you have the saturation/HDR/ etc. turned up too high. :)
Some (almost) final edits for my Los Angeles Gallery Show! Printing them on metallic paper at 13" x 19" and mounting and framing them on a 4mm 18x24 white mat and 2" dark wood frame. Also printing some 40" x 70" whihc is over three feet by five feet! Wish you all could come (and hang out with the goddesses)!
Let me know your favs.!
New Instagram!
Videos!
I booked a major photography show at a major LA gallery in December! Will also be giving some lectures on the story--the Hero's Odyssey Mythology--behind the photography!
Follow me on facebook!
www.facebook.com/elliot.mcgucken
Preparing for some gallery shows this fall to celebrate 300,000,000 views! Printing a few dozen photographs in ~ 30"x40" formats and mounting/framing. Here are some close-to-final edits. HDR photography 7 exposures shot at 1EV and combined in photomatix: 36 megapixel Nikon D800E with the awesome Nikon 14-24mm f/2.8G ED AF-S Nikkor Wide Angle Zoom Lens. 45SURF Hero's Odyssey Mythology Photography!
Epic Scenic HDR Landscapes Shot with Nikon D800E: Hero's Odyssey Mythology Photography!
Enjoy the Hero's Odyssey Mythology Photography, and all the best on a hero's odyssey of your own making!
All the best on your epic hero's odyssey!
New Instagram!
New blog! 45surf.wordpress.com Ask me anything! :)
Fernando Oh so gently urges his Ferrari into Copse corner during this mornings wet 3rd practise session
Some background:
The ASV-99 Boxer was a third-generation construction labor manufactured by Shinohara Heavy Industries, being manufactured and rolled out in March of 1999. It was one of the most advanced construction labors of the time. Shinohara Heavy Industries, a leader in the industry, opened the door to the third generation of Labor with the AV-98 “Ingram”. The ASV-99 "Boxer" was Shinohara's long-awaited civil market machine, using the police Labor’s systems and state-of-the-art technology. It had been hailed as the "highest performance'' model for a long time and was the standard-bearer of a new era of labor.
However, the secret that made users say it has the highest performance could be said to lie in the "Shinohara Precision'' inherited from the “Ingram”. This was an innovative joint mechanism that connected a spherical joint to three cylinder-type actuators. By providing a wide range of motion for the hip joints, ankle joints, and shoulder joints, and the actuator itself also functioning as a shock damper, the vehicle's "holding" had been significantly improved, making it possible to maneuver the vehicle closer to human movements than previous models, what highly improved the ASV-99’s effectiveness.
Like other labors of the same generation the ASV-99 was equipped with a VVVF-controlled PMS actuator with excellent controllability and a lightweight, high-output lithium-ion battery. Furthermore, the impact energy absorbed by the actuator was returned to the battery via a regeneration system after being converted into heat, slightly extending operating time.
Since advanced VR projection for the pilot was not standard yet and quite costly, so that this feature was limited to military Labor models, the ASV-99 still featured transparent cockpit windows to allow the driver a good field of view, augmented by small cameras that added side and back views. Climate control and a pressurized cabin that prevented water, dust, or even gas from entering the pilot’s cabin was a standard feature. A LIDAR system controlled the Labor’s close-range environment, preventing crashes and even making it possible to maneuver the Labor in total darkness.
Several interchangeable manipulators and construction tools were available, so that the ASV-99 was easily adaptable to a wide range of tasks, including a drill, a mechanical chisel, and a number of graspers/pincers, tailored to specific loads.
Due to its high visibility and frequent use in construction projects, the Boxer was frequently abused for labor crime. In 1999, many Boxer units were upgraded with Shinohara’s new hyper operating system. When the Tokyo police’s SV2 labor unit deployed to the Ark factory to thwart a plan to cause all the city’s labors to go berserk, many Boxer units activated on their own and attacked the police.
Specifications:
Accommodation: pilot only, in canopy style cockpit in torso with front access
Overall height 7.19 meters
Overall width 4.12 meters
Minimum revolving radius: 5.0 meters
Standard weight: 8.25 tons
Full equipment weight: 9.0 tons
Maximum weight lifting capacity: 3.1 tons
Armor materials: None, hull consists of fiber-reinforced plastic and aluminum
Armament: none
The kit and its assembly:
Some time ago I got my hands on a “reasonably priced” Patlabor IP kit set from Good Smile Company/Moderoid. The company recently created molds/kits for a wide range of Labors that appear in the original TV series and the movies, thankfully in the old Bandai kits’ rather esoteric 1:60 scale.
This range also included a lot of civil Labors, which were formerly only available as dubious vinyl kits, if at all, so that modelers would have to scratch any model of them. The kit set I got was the HL-98 “Hercules” and ASV 99 “Boxer” combo, two civil construction Labors that shortly appear in supporting roles in the early Nineties movies. I did not have concrete plans for the kits upon purchase, but the Hercules eventually became a JGSDF military variant, but the remaining Boxer was intended to remain a commercial/civil vehicle, due to its glazed cockpit.
Basically, the Boxer was built OOB, but as with the Hercules before, this also had inherent reasons. After initial enthusiasm I was a bit disappointed by both kits. While they look flashy and crisp in the box, molded in color and with some dark grey details on alternative sprues (that are partly shared by BOTH kits, beware not to throw them away!), the kits revealed the designers’ niggardliness. First of all the kits had been designed to be a rather simple snap-fit models. This is per se not a bad thing, many recent Bandai mecha kits are designed this way to appeal to newbie modelers who can put the model together, put stickers on it, and have a functional action figure within 15 minutes. However, Bandai’s designers still have the advanced modeler in mind and typically offer an alternative water slide decal sheet, and the kit is designed in segments that can be built and painted separately, to be assembled in a final step, e. g. thanks to vinyl caps and clever detail solutions that might require one or two parts more, but that pays out elsewhere.
The Good Smile Company kits lack this thought altogether. The number of pieces has been reduced to a point that some parts, which would normally require 2 halves, have been molded and cast with “holes” or as a single piece only, in the Boxer’s case, for instance, some joint parts of the arms which I filled with putty. This might not be an issue, if this would remain invisible – but it isn’t, and that’s really disappointing for such a “modern” and not truly cheap kit!
Additionally, where a Bandai kit would offer a separate flexible vinyl cap in a joint, half of that joint is in the Good Smile Company kits’ case completely molded in an ABS-esque material that is quite soft and poorly accepts any paint – the toy aspect seemed to have priority during the molds’ design process! Sure, you can work with this basis, but I feel painfully reminded of the early IP robot kits from the Eighties which did not offer ANY vinyl caps at all and a very cumbersome, not well thought-through matryoshka layout for arms, legs, and torso, so that building separate modules and assembling them as a final step would be impossible or require thorough mods. IMHO not really convincing and the material thickness as well as some details are rather “chunky” and toy-like.
However, I tried to do my best and made some small mods and upgrades. What’s nice about the Boxer is the glazed cockpit which even comes with a decent interior – even though the clear part that covers both cockpit windows as well as the searchlight at the top of the hull is very thick and, due to its curved shape, blurry, so that you cannot tell any details. To make the whole thing a bit more interesting I procured a suitable driver figure – not an easy task in the exotic 1:60 scale! I was eventually lucky to find a provider for 3D-printed civil figures in various scales, and they were so kind to print a suitable seating figure in the kit’s exact scale. To make it fit into the seat, however, I had to chop the lower legs off and modify the clear part for enough head space. But I think the effort was worth it.
The searchlights were changed, too. The original set has a round shape and reminded me so much of Mickey Mouse ears that OI had to do something about them, even more so because they lack IMHO depth and are clumsily molded into the hull. I simply cut them off and instead scratched new searchlights from 1:72 AH-1 exhaust diffusors, now bigger, deeper and with an oval shape, and mounted on styrene holders so that they stand off from the hull.
A final mod concerns the hands/manipulators: OOB the Boxer comes with two different “hands”, or rather claws, one with three and the other with four “fingers”, arranged in a circle. I really wonder how and what should be grasped by these? I rather went for pincer-style manipulators, transplanted from a tabletop figure of a Power Loader from the Aliens movie (32mm/1:50 scale, made by Prodos Games). They look a bit delicate for the chunky Boxer, but I found their shape to be much more practical for delicate and secure handling work, and they are nicely detailed, too.
Painting and markings:
I stuck to the bright blue OOB livery. First, the blue plastic in which the kit is molded makes it easy, I like the color, and it’s also a frequent color of Japanese construction vehicles. I used Revell 50 (RAL 5012 “Lichtblau”) as basic color, a tone which comes close to the IP material, but is a bit less bright. The joints and some other parts are molded in a very dark brown, and I repainted these with a very dark grey (Revell 6, Anthracite) instead – what was also necessary to cover up the many filled “holes” (see above).
The cockpit interior was painted in a greyish green, with brown seat upholstery. The operating levers became white with black tips – gleaned from a close-up screenshot of a Boxer cockpit from the Patlabor TV series. The pilot was secured in the seat with grey safety belts, made from adhesive tape. The driver himself received a white t-shirt and jeans, for a “mundane” look.
After separate assembly of arms, legs, torso and waist and their basic painting the parts received a black ink washing to work out the few details like air intakes and louvres, and then everything received an overall dry-brushing treatment with slightly more greyish blue tones to make the Boxer look worn and a bit sun-bleached, and then another dry-brushing turn with light grey to emphasize edges.
The new headlights were “filled” with chrome silver, and their covers were created with ClearFix – which was a bit messy, because the openings are probably at the limit of what you can cover with the gooey stuff.
The kit (unfortunately) only comes with stickers, and not decals, so I had to improvise a little – even though OOB there are only small emblems and yellow-and-black warning stripes on the lower arms to be applied. The stripes were replaced with decal alternatives from the scrap box, and I added some suitable stencils from an Ma.K. aftermarket sheet. To break up the uniform blue livery I gave the vehicle an individual number, taken from leftover Macross Destroid sheets (IIRC from Spartans). Additionally, I printed authentic medium-sized Japanese license plates for commercial vehicles from the Tokyo area (green with white letters) and mounted them to the front and rear of the mecha.
Finally, the model was sealed with matt acrylic varnish (from the rattle can) and some mineral pigments were dusted onto the feet for a more realistic look.
For presentation I also created a small base, using a 4x4” medium-density fiberboard and creating some construction site rubble with plaster/putty, some shell shards, a few brush hair bushels and green tuft fibers as dry grass, plus some leftover 1:35 resin bricks from another project. Not a diorama, but something that supports the overall mood and purpose of this mecha.
Compared with the Hercules Labor from the kit set, the Boxer is simpler in construction, and it’s also smaller. Both share the same weaknesses, but it’s still nice to have an IP kit of this obscure Patlabor mecha at all. It builds – with some extra effort – into a neat model, even though it rather looks and feels like an action figure. Leaving it in a bright blue civil livery was the right move, I think, also because of the glazed cockpit, even though the interior is, due to the material’s thick- und blurriness, hard to see. Therefore, the simple, improvised pilot figure does its intended job well and adds to a lively look.
203/2012
Footy tips started well this round, although I underestimated #GoCats' winning margin by a mere 63 points!!!!
Just the tip of the Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral and of the Giotto's Campanile in Firenze, Tuscany (Italy)
Introduced, yearlong-green, short-lived perennial, tap-rooted herb to 40 cm tall. Leaves form a rosette and are hairy (hairs 2-3 forked at tip), toothed (or with triangular lobes) and to 10 cm long. Flowerheads are solitary heads borne on solid unbranched stems; each head has many yellow ligulate flowers. Fruit are achenes of 2 types: outer smooth or finely rough, not beaked, curved and with a pappus of small scales; inner rough, more or less beaked and with pappus in 2 rows, outer simple, inner feathery. Flowering occurs over most of the year. A native of Europe, it is most common in overgrazed pastures, lawns and wasteland; in full sun conditions. Tolerates a wide range of sites and soil conditions. An indicator of disturbance. It is grazed by livestock, but has low palatability. Tolerant of heavily grazed situations as it has prostrate leaves that are not readily available to cattle. It increases under grazing systems that reduce ground cover. Control in pasture situations is through good fertiliser and grazing management.
Artist's Statement
My work is an attempt to give voice to inner psychological and/or spiritual states of being. What is of primary importance to me is that the figures contain particular aspects of humanity which they can mirror back to the viewer. It's the vulnerability of Humanity I am after. That is one reason for choosing very old or very young subjects. They both can portray innocence as well as extreme complexity.
Often they seem best portrayed as dolls. This can remove them one step from being so literal yet still allow the psychological weight. Perhaps that is something not noticed immediately yet allows the viewer easier access. To myself I can muse about the viewers engagement with them as dolls however It is the felt response I am after in every case.
Cutting newborn nails, especially a newborn, may scare you, especially if this is your first experience.
However, you should keep cutting it out because even though the baby's nails look soft, the fingernails can still hurt him and others.
The baby has not been able to control his movements properly. Therefore, it is important to keep the nails short to avoid scratching and injuring oneself.
Especially when your child has started to interact with friends who his age. Newborn nails can injure his friend unintentionally.
Cut the baby's nails should be careful because if wrong or miss, which is even our baby's nails are injured. For that here are tips for cutting the baby's nails safely
The best time to cut your nails
Given the uncontrolled movement of the baby, it is advisable to cut his nails when he is fast asleep. Or it could be after bathing because in this condition the nails are softer.
If you decide to do so when you wake up, you can ask someone for help holding and keeping your baby so that you do not move much when you cut his nails.
Choose the right nail clippers
If your baby is a few weeks old, it is advisable to cut his nails using only nail carvers. At that age, the baby's nails are still very soft.
If you wear nail clippers, it is feared you can hurt his finger, especially for those of you who are not used to doing it. Wearing a nail cutter for baby is the safest method.
You can also tidy up using baby nail clippers. This type of scissors has a blunt, not as sharp tip as your usual nail clippers.
Determine the position
Make sure you get a comfortable position that can reach his hand.
Maybe you can put your little one in your lap.
Also, make sure the room stays bright, so you can see the boundary between the fingernails and the skin of his finger clearly.
Nail cutting technique baby
Fang the finger you want to cut out. Press the tip of the skin of your little finger to make it easier for you to cut his nails.
If you see there are still a few nails left but are afraid to cut them out, you can take advantage of the nail mind.
Tidy the fingernails of the child's hands follow the original grooves of his nails. As for the toenails, you can cut it straight.
If you do not intentionally injure the tip of his finger
If this happens, you do not need to panic or feel guilty. Immediately clean the wound with cold water, then dress with a tissue and apply some pressure to the wound. Usually, within minutes the bleeding will stop.
Avoid putting the plaster on the wound, because he still put his finger into the mouth, which then this can make your baby choking.
Given the rapid growth of baby's nails, you are advised to cut your nails at least once a week. For toenails, growth is slower. So you may be able to cut it out twice a month. more info @ www.babygifa.com
First things first. Remove any cable management you may have in place and make a note of the wiring order of the two motors - Red, Yellow, Green, Brown.
Often referred to the "poor mans" teflon dispense tip these tips offer an economical alternative to the more expensive Teflon®* dispense tips. These tips are more inert to fluids, such as cyanoacrylates and anaerobics, than stainless steel but not as inert as Teflon®*. Available in multiple gauge sizes in lengths of .25", .5", 1", 1.5".
Fishman designs & manufactures Liquid Dispensing Systems and Dispenser Components - Syringes, Tips, Pistons and Barrels. Our Fluid and Adhesive Dispensers offer advanced automation control with SmartDispenser™ AirFree™ technology. Please visit our web site to learn more: www.fishmancorp.com/Genius-Components/tips
*Teflon® is a registered trademark of the Dupont Corporation
Producer’s Tip: Looperman is a website full of free sounds, loops, and more that others have created for the music community to use. Check them out when you need some inspiration song starters.
Torrens Island Power Station taken from Torrens Island on the day of the winter king tide. Just over an hour later this area was covered in water.