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An interpretation of one of the works of artist Andy Beck using acrylic and experimenting with using thread to create texture and add an interesting element to the painting.
Date: August 2016
Starting weaving again after "painting" the warp with the "slime" from boiled linen seeds. That helps a lot, and the threads do not brake. But still need to repair the many knots in the warp.
The thread is Knit-Cro-Sheen, shaded flamingoes, size 10. Crocheted with a Boye size 6 hook.
The pattern is by C. Strohmeyer, from his A Year of Doilies, Leisure Arts booklet #2120 (from 1991).
I broke a shock body over-tightening the cap (metal cap + plastic thread + me in a rush = oops) but managed to pick up 4xAX10 shocks on eBay which came with a bunch of spares including the chassis plates which I have now installed. At the same time I have removed the battery tray and moved the electronics down and forward. I still need to sort a location for the battery. At the moment things are cable tied in place but I think I'll use some Velcro tape once I am happy with positions
When I returned to school after Spring Break, everything had started to bloom. So, my photographer and I got together and held my Spring Kitsuke photoshoot, to go with my Autumn and Winter one... I will eventually load the Winter one here.
This is my Heisei period irotomesode featuring a design of famous sites in Kyoto with the urushi technique (weaving a design with lacquered threads). The fukuro obi has a design of pine branches and plum blossoms over water. I liked this combination a lot, but it was too warm for the bright sunlight that day.
As pretty as these flowers are, I absolutely hate them. They're some variant of pear blossoms that smell like day-old fish. It's disgusting, why are they all over my school?
Threads of water cascade over the rocks along the Provo River in the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest along the Mirror Lake Highway in Utah. (c) 2017 Tom Kelly Photo
Threading battons, installation of event structure
Utopography; Location, Evaluation and Consensus, Chelsea College of Arts 25 -29th March 2014
This facsimile of the embroidery work as seen from the back of the cover is one example of why I'm not yet ready to give up on printed books. You have to be able to touch this--it looks almost real--and it adds a wonderful dimension to the cover.
Black Beauty, Anna Sewell, Penguin Deluxe Classics "Threads Series" 2011, NY, London. Forward to this edition by Jane Smiley. Cover art by Jill Tamaki. Read more about her experience with producing these covers here:
jilliantamaki.com/embroidery/penguin-threads/
Then, go buy your own copy to have and to read!
Today I presented my methods for thread drawing - using four different techniques for this simple piece - to the Harbor Art Guild in Hoquiam, WA.
I used four different techniques to create this image - standard lock-stitching on a home machine, darning on a home machine, fabric applique with fusible web, and hand-embroidery.
One of the things I saved while rescuing a 35mm movie projection system and accessories over a year ago from a university student center slated for demolition, was a set of improvised threading diagrams one of the student projectionists drew.
This diagram covered the payout side of a Christie AW3 platter as well as the path through a Century SA projector head and R3 soundhead.
A Paithani saree being woven with gold and silk threads.
Exif data auto added by theGOOD Uploadr
File Size : 9.9 mb
Camera Make : Canon
Camera Model : Canon EOS 60D
Software : Adobe Photoshop CS6 (13.0 20120305.m.415 2012/03/05:21:00:00) (Windows)
Exposure : 0.033 seconds
Aperture : f/2.8
ISO Speed : 800
Focal Length : 19 mm
This is another macro shot using a reversed lens for the magnification. The camera was mounted on a tripod with the screw in front balanced on its head. Shot it with a 100-300mm lens at 100mm and my 50mm f/1.8 in front. The photo was shot with available light.
Photos posted to link to this car's thread on the Cadillac message boards.
www.cadillacforums.com/forums/classic-cadillac-forum/8854...
It's HOT out! But that doesn't mean you should have to break a sweat in your Cadillac. I invested some time into making that a reality once again for this car.
This car was "retrofitted" to R134a in 2004. From the time that I owned it, performance was forgivable until the outside temperature got into the mid 80s and above, or parking in the sun for an extended period of time. Basically it exhibited all of the flaws of a converted car. When it was really hot out, the AC was a bad joke, especially when driving slowly. After exhausting everything else, the only choice was to go back to R12.
I had never done any real AC work besides the occasional charge with a can until the air coming out "felt good." I wanted to have an AC shop do everything, but no one in my area does anything with R12 anymore. I was definitely nervous, as, despite it sucking, the 134 system didn't leak at all. I found that it really wasn't that bad, and I would do it again if I had to.
This is what everything looked like before I started. The compressor was changed in 1991...R4's are not known to live that long so it was definitely going to be replaced. I bought an ancient but new Harrison 200 on Ebay some years ago in preparation for this. Here it is getting ready oiled and ready to spin for the first time in decades! Hopefully it will hold up.
At some point the evaporator core was replaced, evidenced by the black goop sealing the box. I wasn't sure of it's condition so I was going to replace it too (it wan't in bad shape and was probably a waste to anyone who might be considering undertaking something like this). I'm glad I did it because the way the box was sealed really wasn't the best and was probably sacrificing some efficiency. I didn't take any pictures of the box itself, but the sealant that was used was a nightmare to remove completely. This was really the worst part of the job, as whoever did it last must have bought stock in the sealant company. Even the drain was filled full of the stuff
So I'm not sure how exactly it was draining before (it did drain though, no standing condensate) There is a bolt that holds the bottom of the HVAC box to the firewall, just about where the passenger's left foot would rest that goes behind the carpet, through to the engine bay. This bolt was missing, and the box was surprisingly...you guessed it, glued to the firewall with about a 1/2 tube of sealant! I was able to find a nut and bolt that was appropriate to hold the box as it was designed to. While I was behind the carpet, I also noticed this.
This rubber plug has 3 vacuum lines running through it. Mine was loose, so much so that if one shined a light at the firewall from under the hood it would come through the car. It was a bitch to get a grasp on and seat back into position. I had no idea that it was there, much less that it was loose and causing an air leak into the car right by one of the manifold-to-Y pipes. I only mention this because I told my buddy about it who owns a 1985 car and his was just kinda dangling there like mine was. Worth looking at if you own a car of this era. I had to use two pair of tiny needlenose to put enough power on it to pop it back in.
There was nothing really wrong with the lines or condenser, so they would be flushed out, 134a-dapters removed, mineral oiled and put back into service. At an HVAC pro's recommendation, I used RX11 AC flush. Nasty stuff, but did a great job. It is really important to get the 134a oil out of the system, along with any garbage that may have accumulated over the years. My job was made easier by tons of green dye that was in the system.
The orifice tube is supposed to collect physical contaminants. They really shouldn't be that dirty, provided you're not working with a car that had a blown compressor. No idea how old this tube was, but it was not bad.
Once I had the system flushed, I put everything back together using one of those AC o-ring kits. My mechanic checked it for leaks, and then vacuumed it down. Finally I was ready to charge! I was excited, and regrettably forgot to take pictures of the process (I even bought a gauge set). Anyway, the only one more excited than me was the car!
Can you see the cold?
Vent temps are in the mid 40's around town, NYC. Figure 90 +/- 5 and very humid. On the highway, I've seen as low as 37, but no lower. Of note, these measurements were taken from the center vents using a digital temp sensor, not a vent thermometer. Regardless, of the vent temp, the car itself is actually cool inside which is something I remember about R12 that even newer cars that have much more consistent performance seem to lack. Ice coming out of the vents, but you have to be in the airflow to actually be cool. Not so anymore. I'm so pleased with this, and kinda shocked that it worked! To anyone contemplating AC work, I recommend watching this guy's videos, especially this one
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kh0CGLWX_Wc
It helped me out a lot (read: gave me confidence to tear into an air conditioning system) I'll be back with an unrelated update sometime soon, and I don't mean 3 months soon like last time!
A 1970s blouse was my inspiration.Pattern featured as a curtain found in McCalls Crochet Patterns Febr 1993 Vol.7 No1.
after decades of very sporadic use, the 20 metres of darning thread reached the end of the line, revealing a very touching Heinzelmaennchen (alluding to the company name Heinze) on the cardboard support. Good excuse to produce a thread of thread photos.