View allAll Photos Tagged polarized
Sony F-717 at Age 20 - 7 (of 27) - Sony Cybershot DSC F-717 with Karl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar F:2-2.4 9.7-48.5mm zoom & Polarizer - Photographer Russell McNeil PhD (Physics) lives on Vancouver Island, where he works as a writer.
My photo walk of July 8, 2023 in Lyon, France by a stunning summer day with my Nikon F SLR camera (circa 1964-1965). The guiding idea was to use a circular polarizing filter with a color negative film for all outdoor pictures. I did my photo session between about 2pm to 5pm. The temperature reached 33°C in the afternoon and the atmosphere was very clear and dry.
My 60's Nikon F was equipped with its normal lens Nippon Kogaku Nikkor-S 1:2 f=5cm with is lighter than my later period Nikkor-S version 1:1.4 f=50mm from the early 70's. The lens was equipped with the original Nikkor F metal shade hood specific of the 1:2 f=5cm. For all outdoor views the lens was also equipped with a Hakura 52mm polarizing filter oriented for the best color saturation.
I used a Fujifilm 200 36-exposure negative color film (this film is made in the USA and given with the same technical characteristics of Kodak Gold 200). It was exposed for 50 ISO to compensate the polarizing filter absorption, using an Autometer III Minolta lightmeter fitted with a 10° finder for selective measurements privileging the shadow areas.
July 8, 2023
69001 Lyon
France
After exposure, the film was developped by a local lab service using the C-41 protocol. The film was then digitalized using a Sony A7 body fitted to a Minolta Slide Duplicator installed on a Minolta Auto Bellows III with a lens Minolta Bellow Macro Rokkor 50mm f/3.5. The RAW files obtained were processed without intermediate files in LR and edited to the final jpeg pictures.
All views of the film are presented in the dedicated album either in the printed framed versions and unframed full-size jpeg accompanied by some documentary smartphone Vivo Y76 color pictures.
About the camera and the lens :
This exemplary of Nikon F (engraved "Nippon Kogaku Tokyo") has a serial number beginning by 658xxxx and was consequently manufactured in the mother Oi Nikon factory in Tokyo, Japan, between Dec. 1964 and April 1965. I bought the camera in Feb. 2022 from Japan. The Nikon F body came with the normal lens Nikkor-S 1:2 f=5 cm, branded "Nippon Kogagu". For the photo session the body was equipped with the body shell of a late Nikon F CTT ever ready bag. This body shell holds the original leather neck strap and is made of a metallic shell covered outside by a black leather and a dark-red velvet inside.
Toronto: Chinatown - 3 (of 7) - Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II with Yi 42.5mm 1:1.8 Prime (M43 Mount) & Polarizer - Photographer Russell McNeil PhD (Physics) lives on Vancouver Island, where he works as a writer.
Using tiffen polarizer. Top is where it's rotated to have least effect, bottom where it's rotated to have most effect. It does show much more effect here than the other times I've tried clouds, so maybe I previously wasn't doing a good job deciding when to use it. I gotta admit it makes a pretty noticeable difference here. Though, it is oddly much more noticable on some screens than others.
I'm currently preparing an article about a polarizer filter I've built for my flash and how to use it.
This is an example what can be done with polarized light from a display (iPad in this case) and some transparent plastic (lens filter box).
Thanks for looking!
With bare eyes you couldn't see anything here cos the sun was reflecting like mad. As you can see: the Polarizer reduced it to almost nothing.
I tested out a new 77mm polarizing filter on the alpacas today. Bambi looks good regardless of filters!
Some time ago I wrote an article about a diy project how to easily use cross polarized light in your photos (for details see this post) but I din't try it that much in the fields. Now I made another polarizer diffuser for my on-camera flash an here are some results. I really like how the colors come out.
Fujinon 50/1.4 lens with extension tubes and polarizer filter.
Not so easy to shoot, since I had to stop down before shooting (around F8, don't look at the exif) and the viewfinder was really dark.
See some more shots in the comments, have a nice day!
Went for a day trip to landmannalaugar today with russi, tomz, berglind and my girlfriend Korinna.
Great skies and great weather. Hot with sun and so on.
I really love this place and I can't understand that I have not seen it before.
Well I recomend it and its posible to go there on regular cars. Allthough I recomend a good 4x4 truck
the power of olympus pen
no image manipulation,
no other shortcuts.
i used a hoya polfilter,nothing else.
for more details,please look the exif.
Millstone River - 2 (of 10) - Canon 30D (2006) & Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 Mark 1 (1987) Prime (EOS mount) with Cross Filter & Polarizer - Photographer Russell McNeil PhD (Physics) lives on Vancouver Island, where he works as a writer.
I am trying to run away from blue pictures and that's why saturated this picture and increased the temperature using picnik.com
Anyhow the point is that - with Polarizer, you can get better colors ;) see difference within the circle and outside the circle
But the worst part is that- when I saw the polarizer it was time to leave :) next time I should thoroughly check the bag for extra goodies. Thanks Thanblyna once again.
From last week's trip to Washington... Bronica ETRSi with 75mm MC 2.8, Red 25A and C. Polarizer filters.
T-Max 100 developed 6¼ minutes in T-Max developer 1:4 at 24ºC/75ºF.
A combination of frost, snowfall and a clear winter sunset lights up the oak once or twice every winter.
Shot on Fuji Sensia 100 (slide film) using a Nikon FM3a / Nikkor 20mmAF-D
Process:
Epson V600 scan @ 2400dpi
Photoshop: Auto Levels and then manual colour balance tweaking,
noise reduction and unsharp mask at original size, then resized to 1200x800,
then another sharpen filter.
I got 100 shots with the d90 and a good roll of film with the fm3a - none of the digital shots came even close to these colours.
Part of the Grand Oak Series
See also
After spending half an hour moving the camera fractions of an inch to avoid reflections from the lights in the recording studio, I thought I'd try my polarizer. Instantly I got that hi-tech look that I see in the glossy mags. And no reflections. I always figured a polarizer was good for making skies bluer, and that's about it, but they're actually a very handy filter to have around. I was trying to figure out the lighting on a studio car shot that looked very hi-tech, and I figured there must be a hell of a lot of photoshop going on. Then I noticed a checkerboard pattern on some of the windows. I've seen the same thing while driving around with my polarized sunglasses. At certain angles laminated windows have this pattern.
Try a polarizer when shooting highly reflective metal or glass objects. People wearing glasses. People with shiny skin. Shoot an LCD computer screen and you can dial it down to totally black.
If you want to get experimental, put a polarizer on your lighting as well.
I shot this using ambient light only. No Photoshop.
IMHO a polarizing filter should nearly always be used in landscape photography. Upper without, bottom with it: better sky, better contrast, better color balance.
Parksville - 6 (of 11) - Panasonic Lumix FZ200 & Polarizer - Photographer Russell McNeil PhD (Physics) lives on Vancouver Island, where he works as a writer.
the power of olympus pen
no image manipulation,
no other shortcuts.
i used a hoya polfilter,nothing else.
fresh " out of the olympus pen ".
for more details,please look the exif.
Tiny ion-exchange resin beads (used to purify water) showing stress patterns when put between two sheets of polarizing filter material.
Must View On Black! This is a thin rock section seen through the 10x objective of a Motic BA300 Polarizing microscope. These were the actual colors and are NOT photoshop generated. If you were using this microscope you would rotate a polarizer and the colors would change. A Geologist (very loose term here) could notate the changes in the colors when turning the polarizer and determine what minerals are in the rock. I on the other hand can only tell you the microscope works as it's supposed to and that these are my favorite colors from the test slide. DSC_7737
Plastic forks stacked in front of an LCD computer screen. Image taken with circular polarizer on lens, rotated to supress light from the LCD screen.
One lone fork stacked on the base of the others to see the effect.
Taken through my sunglasses. I didn't have my circular polarizer with me, but the glasses cut the glare just fine.
This is a new launching/landing spot we tried this morning, near one of our local surf spots, Ke'ei. For those that know Manini from my photostream, this is about one mile further south, at the southern end of Kealakekua Bay.